LESVOS SPRING MIGRATION TOUR
19 – 27 April 2001
POST TOUR REPORT
Species Seen

Our arrival on Lesvos coincided with unsettled weather that had been a recent feature throughout much of Europe. We felt that many of the smaller birds had been held back - borne out by the large influx of hirrundines, Bee-eaters and shrikes during the week. The wind which was at times very cold was to affect most of the week but by the last couple of days of the tour the temperature rose considerably.

The staff at Kalloni II once again made our group most welcome and our regular driver gave us a most comfortable drive on each day. We managed to locate almost all the expected "special" birds of the island with many wonderful and unexpected sightings. The highlights included 5 Flamingos flying over our heads on the first morning, an Alpine Swift and a Hobby concluding that first morning’s walk, the clouds of Hirrundines, the fall of Bee-eaters as we walked the Potamia valley plus on the same walk the two Rock Nuthatches attacking a snake. Lesser Grey Shrike posing with the late afternoon sun catching it beautifully and of course the Golden Orioles. In all some 133 species were seen or heard by members of the group during the course of the week.

We all enjoyed the warm sunshine - such a change from what we had left behind in UK. A leisurely start, meeting at 9.15 for a gentle walk around Kalloni Pool. The first 100 yards took an hour or so as we familiarised ourselves and got used to the close views of Corn Bunting, Crested Lark, the stunning Black- headed Wagtail, Squacco Heron, Black-winged Stilts, Ruff, Wood Sandpipers, Little Bittern and Glossy Ibis - four were already feeding to be joined by three more flying in. The Cetti’s Warbler and Nightingale were in very fine voice and what a pleasure to get such great views. Visible signs of migration were noted in the form of Whinchat (we were to see so many more during the week), House Martins and Swallows including our first Red-rumped. Five Flamingos gave us a welcoming fly past and a Hen Harrier, Hobby and Alpine Swift darted over our heads as we neared the end of what had been an exciting three hour start to our holiday.

After our buffet lunch we drove east to Achladeri via the Salt Pans where a couple of hundred Flamingos and plenty of Avocet shimmered in the sun and heat haze. At the first stop we saw 21 Ruddy Shelduck, Kentish Plover, Great and Little Egrets, Yellow-legged Gulls, Black-eared Wheatear and Purple Heron. Nearby, a short walk along a riverside track gave us good views of Black-eared Wheatear, Woodchat Shrike, fleeting glimpse of Sparrowhawk, Lesser Grey Strike, female Pied Flycatcher and Agama Lizard.

Once in the wooded area we didn’t need to wait long for another Lesvos special bird - Kruper’s Nuthatch - the distinctive call being the give away before excellent views being obtained. We continued our walk up the track to a fabulous viewpoint across the adjacent woodland. Spotted Flycatcher was seen by some but Goldfinches were the stars of the show until a Short-toed Eagle was spotted above the distant hills. As we returned to the coach the sky above the fields and bay was literally swarming with 100’s of mainly Alpine Swifts with Swift and other hirrundines with them - a spectacular sight. The journey back to Skala Kalloni also gave us good views of another speciality - Long-legged buzzard.

All agreed - a very good and relaxing start to the tour.

61 species seen or heard today

Today was warm but showery and very calm. The pre-breakfast walk started at 6.45 outside the Hotel. It was soon spotting with rain but came to nothing. We needed to be told that the duck whizzing off the pool had been a Garganey but no doubt about the large bird flying across the bay - Black Stork. On the West River some 40+ Little Stints busily fed with Little Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpipers, Marsh Sandpiper, Ruff and Kentish Plover. Marsh Harrier was in the distance.

After breakfast we set off to the North of the island, calling at the local Supermarket to stock up on water and other refreshments. We arrived at our first destination on the Petra-Molyvos road and as rain threatened we decided just to stay in the lay by to look for birds. The start was a bit slow and we wondered if there were any birds around and then we saw our first Cretzschmar’s Bunting, closely followed by Ruppell’s Warbler. It then all seemed to start up with excellent views of Blue Rock Thrush, Linnet, Black-eared Wheatear. 1045 and we headed off to Molyvos Castle where everyone wondered at Ralph’s ability to spot a Little Owl in the castle walls. We moved back down the hill for a coffee/toilet stop. Being too early for lunch and rain threatening we retraced our steps to another lay by and a walk into the hills. Again this proved most rewarding with rain keeping off and we saw all the same species again, but really well and also added Blackcap, Hoopoe and brilliantly close Ortolan Buntings to the list.

Now it was lunch time so it was just a short drive along the coastal road to Eftalou for our first picnic - much enjoyed despite the windy conditions. Those able to manage a plate in one hand and binoculars in the other added Audouin’s Gull to their list although it stayed around long enough to give everyone some of the best views we’ve ever had. The walk above Eftalou proved to be special in a way none of us could imagine. The air become very still, and the light changed to a most peculiar yellow. No birds were moving and we really did wonder what was going to happen next. With the sky orange, the seascape violet and the hillside a vivid green we really were in the middle of a natural phenomena. It started to drizzle big spots of rain and we became covered in particles of sand. All caused by sand trapped under the clouds. I think we were all somewhat overawed by what we had witnessed but nonetheless quite relieved when the moment passed. Back to birding and amongst the more common species - Blue and Great Tit, Goldfinch, Corn Bunting and a fall of Blackbirds - we did find Cirl Bunting, Cretzschmar’s Bunting, and a pair of Masked Shrike.

We returned to Molyvos castle for a photo stop and then journeyed back to Skala Kalloni via the resort of Petra and arrived back at 1745.

63 Species seen or heard today.

It was very windy for the pre-breakfast walk. Just Little Terns were new species for the walk around West River.

Although a sunny day the wind remained very strong as we made our way to our first main stop at Devil’s Bridge where some went up to see the small chapel on the hill, whilst others searched the rocks for Cinereous Bunting, unfortunately without success although even against the strong wind the song could clearly be heard. Two Golden Orioles made up for it. Also seen well were Cretzschmar’s Bunting, Common Buzzard and Rock Nuthatch near the nest with a beak so full of food it was surprising it didn’t tip over. Another brief stop added singing Subalpine Warbler.

Our next port of call was the Potamia Valley just west of Skala Kalloni- a slow walk to the bridge and back was much enjoyed in the warm, sheltered conditions. It was here were saw first evidence of

Bee-eater arrivals with small groups moving around, a long row of Swallows on the wire showed that some Red-rumped were amongst them, soon joined by House Martins so comparison of the three species was superb.

Eyes needed to be everywhere here for Short-toed Eagle and Long-legged Buzzard plus an increasing number of Woodchat Shrikes. Whinchats were by far the most common of the migrants (with nine in two small adjacent fields) but the highlight (or gravest concern) was the time spent watching a pair of Rock Nuthatches fighting off what was probably a Whip Snake by their nest site - an angry Jay also occasionally joined in the combat. Our concerns were unfounded as the snake slithered past and holed up in a cool sheltered crevice. At the bridge there were many Stripe-necked Terrapins, Marsh Frogs and Common Toad and a single Brown Rat loafing in a waterside bush.

Being close to the hotel we returned for coffee and use of facilities before heading west to the Salt Pans (just east of Arisvi). We slowly drove down the edge of the pans and adjacent water filled channel. Just after watching nine Shoveler, a fine collection of Avocets, Black-winged Stilts and Greater Flamingos, 9 Collared Pratincole flew over and away - many of the group managed reasonable views.

We moved towards and onto the sheep meadows behind the Salt Pans. Blue-headed and Black-headed Wagtails a plenty - three Short-toed Larks and a sizeable flock of Ruff mixed in with Little Ringed Plovers and Wood Sandpipers. With lots of sheep and horses grazing, plus not wanting to disturb other birdwatchers/photographers we picked our route carefully - finally ending up against the fence overlooking some more pools. Amongst the many Common and Little Terns one stood out: a Caspian Tern on a spit of mud was head and shoulders (and beak) above the rest. On the walk back the hoped for species was eventually located - Red Throated Pipits showing beautifully in the late afternoon light. A Spur-thighed Tortoise was easy to catch up with as it wandered through the meadows.

This walk was much enjoyed despite the wind - the sun was quite hot and the abundance of Crested Larks, wagtails and many Bee-eaters were a constant delight.

58 Species seen or heard today.

A big storm had raged overnight and we awoke to a very, very windy and cold but sunny day.

Once again a pre-breakfast walk, this time into the nearby village of Papianna for the White Storks and the possibility of Middle Spotted Woodpecker - the former being seen well, the latter only glimpsed. A telegraph wire and close bush festooned with Red- rumped Swallows was a highlight..

Westwards today with first of all a leg stretch near Skalachori - quite sheltered against the wind we had a good selection including Blue Rock Thrush, female Red-backed Shrike, three Buzzards, male Cirl Bunting, Linnets, two Rock Nuthatches displaying then a Subalpine warbler and we then spent some 20 minutes enthralled as eventually what turned out to be two pairs gave brilliant views of courtship flight, feeding etc. Next stop coffee in Vatoussa. - two Wrens and a Nightingale added to the pleasure of this stop.

Well refreshed we ventured onward through stunning scenery along to the Eressos-Sigri road junction where, despite the strongest possible wind we had some amazing views of a pair of Isabelline Wheatears. From Ipsilou we took the southerly and easterly route back to Skala Kalloni via Eressos. After our picnic lunch we drove on to Eressos and enjoyed a gentle stroll along the River Chalandra with Whinchats once more in abundance but also a good selection of what for us are common summer migrants - Whitethroats, Garden Warbler, Blackcaps, Spotted and Pied Flycatchers, Sand Martins and Swallows. Some caught a glimpse of Lesser Grey Shrike. The return walk also proved productive not only for the male Cirl Bunting but also for the absolutely stunning view of the male Lesser Grey Shrike which, with the sun on it, perched in a fig tree, looked really beautiful. A single Starling on a chimney was possibly the rarest bird of the day for Lesvos in late April.

The drive back was scenically stunning - via Messotopos where we picked up a local farmer and dropped him in Agra to the amusement of those sitting at the back of the coach! We failed to find Cinereous Bunting but just beyond Devil’s Bridge those sleeping were awakened by shouts of Roller which a few managed to spot.

This evening we were entertained by the Greek dancers performing traditional Greek, local Lesvos and modern Greek dances.

65 species seen or heard today.

Purple Heron was the first sighting for all on the pre-breakfast walk but the really early risers had already seen Red-footed Falcon flashing across the bay. Nine Glossy Ibis and the usual selection of waders were about but today we added excellent views of Stone Curlew to the list and a Red-throated Pipit was an unexpected find, a female Montagu’s Harrier concluded a productive walk.

Once again sunny and windy. Away by 9 am for the drive to the Salt Pans. Bee-eaters, a Montagu’s Harrier, two Common Sandpiper and our first Black-headed Bunting were to be the highlights of this brief visit. A short walk just before "Derbyshire" did turn up singing Fan-tailed Warbler and many Little Stints and Black and Blue Headed Wagtails were feeding in the damp meadows.

Next stop - coffee at one of the best located Tavernas on the Island at Achladeri. Then back to the woods for lunch. The picnic was taken in the shade of the pine trees and with an opportunity to sit and relax, some wandered off for a final look at the Kruper’s Nuthatch. Amongst the more common Chaffinch, Greenfinch and Pied Flycatcher, Wood Warbler was a nice addition to the list. Some saw a Hoopoe make a dash out of our way as did a Masked Strike.

The afternoon ended with a visit to the East River and for those feeling energetic enough, a 2 ½ mile walk back to the hotel. Others returned by coach. The walk proved most pleasant and productive - the bridge itself is always a good place for Little Egrets and Glossy Ibis and so it was today. The rest of the walk produced the usual common selection of species - Cetti’s and Olivaceous Warbler, Nightingales, Little Ringed Plover, Wood Sandpipers, Black Headed Wagtails, Sand Martins, Linnets, Turtle Doves, Little Bittern, Whinchats. Local life always provides something of interest and today it was watching the local shepherds guiding their flock over the ford of the river with one small lamb giving group members some cause for concern as it held back - looking almost afraid to follow its parents but then it is a sheep after all so it took the plunge (literally) and finally made it to the accompaniment of many oohs and aahs from the gathered audience!

Richard Brooks gave his talk on Lesvos this evening.

74 species seen or heard today.

No prearranged early morning walk although some did venture out. We awoke to a calm, sunny day. We undertook a longer journey today - west to Sigri. We were soon climbing above the Limona Monastery. This is a most scenic route - Hoopoe and Middle Spotted Woodpecker were seen from the coach before we turned off for the Petrified Forest, adding Lesser Kestrel on the this road. The group had an enjoyable hour or so pottering around with fantastic views of Chukar and finally catching up with Cinereous Bunting, amongst the other more common birds seen.

Time was now moving on fast and we decided to take lunch sooner rather than later so we by-passed Sigri in favour of our traditional picnic site on the Faneromeni track. Stunning male Red-backed Shrike and good selection of warblers/flycatchers were close to the lunch site. Afterwards we set off to Faneromeni Ford. The shrikes and warblers were well seen and the star of the show was a singing Orphean Warbler. Of other interest, two or three Persian Squirrels feeding under the Olive trees.

We slowly made our way back to the coach and onward to Sigri Harbour where the group were treated to ice creams - and Jackdaw - new for the list.

As it was now beautifully calm and sunny we headed straight for the Ipsilou Monastery where the highlight had to be the wonderful view of Golden Orioles. The inner sanctum of the Monastery was much appreciated. Alas, the Rock Sparrow did not show although some did see Crag Martin.. For those brave enough or with enough energy to climb the steps to the top looking down upon the Long-legged Buzzard was only surpassed by the fabulous views.

Once again stunning scenery was to keep most people awake for the journey back to the hotel.

75 species seen or heard today.

back to top