This month we feature the talents of one of Italy's brightest new
Chefs Marina Doria.
Marina Doria
talks exclusively to the Good Restaurant Guide about her approach to
cooking and tells us about the history and the success of her establishment
"The Lobster Basque".
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GRG:
Marina how does it feel
to be considered amongst the best and certainly one of the most influential
chefs
in Italy from
a gastronomic standpoint?
Naturally I am very happy and proud but also aware of the fact that what counts
isn't what we've done up until now but that which I hope to be able to do from
here on. It is important to constantly look for new goals new, ideas, new
flavours. Its very much like fishing you always hope that the next fish is going
to be the "big one". Similarly I enjoy going into my kitchen and
experimenting, firstly because I love food but secondly - I think I must have
been an alchemist in a past life - because I love to try new concoctions,
mixtures, flavours.
GRG: You
are already considered to be one of Italy's finest chefs, so where do you want to go - do you
still want to evolve?
M.D... Yes I want to evolve and grow. I can't just sit on my laurels and just
produce the same fare day in day out. I need new challenges. Its a risk and I
know one day it will not be there but I intend to use every day to the maximum.
Take risks and produce new, stimulating food ideas. Every day new client come to
our restaurant and arrive with high expectations that we must not only aim to
meet those expectations but to surpass them. The only way I can do that is to
enjoy the creative element of cooking. Look at any great artist,
sportsman, businessman or woman. They have a drive which stems from a need to
meet the highest possible standards and a fear of failure. I love new ideas and
I hate to fail - I fear failure.
GRG: Being considered to be a top ten chef brings with it considerable
responsibility. How do you maintain such a high level of attention and
concentration?
M.D
don't believe in these types of ratings. I have friend who are much better chefs
than I but whose name never gets mentioned in the ratings simple because they
cook for friends or for small establishments.
GRG: Your
style has been called "Total Cuisine". but how would you define your
style?.
M.D. Simple,
honest but stimulating. Personally I hate the Total Cuisine tag. It remind me of
the phrase Total War. Eating is actually meant to be a pleasurable activity. We
are not waging war but trying to have a good time by filling our stomachs and stimulating
our senses.
I
like new ideas but at the same time I hate to mix flavours. I try to bring out
the essence of the food I'm preparing. If I'm cooking duck
I actually believe the customer should taste duck, not oranges or prunes or
caraway but duck. How's about that then? But then the best way to taste the
flavour of duck is to clean the palate with a celery and vinegar wine sauce
starter. Hence the total cuisine tag. If you choose duck you must have the
celery mouse vinaigrette. I'm not a fascist in the restaurant but the whole meal
relies upon the right combination. My customers are given this combination at
the outset. Take it or leave it. Fortunately most people take it . If you don't
like celery - tough luck. Don't order Duck!!!
GRG: Have
you ever considered moving out of the kitchen and more into the marketing side
of the business. i.e. getting other chefs do the work and you concentrate on promoting
the restaurant?
M.D.: I consider
it every day for at least five seconds. Then the fish delivery arrives and I thank God that I'm doing the thing I most enjoy in life and making a good
living out of it. I receive many requests to participate in other initiatives
throughout the world, but the restaurant's configuration requires my presence.
This goes beyond the physical preparation of the dish to the presence for our
clients. It is clear that in any case the staff is certainly sufficiently
skilled that it is able to manage any possible situation even in our absence.
But I'm not about to give them the chance.
GRG: What are your influences?
M.D.: I was born near the sea so obviously I have a passion for fish and shellfish. There is nothing I like better than to visit
the local fish market (sometimes at four in the morning to see what is available). As
I believe cooking is an art form I also believe that the other arts impact upon
my work. Consequently great poetry and music also effects my mood and style. I
would like to think that my food attempts to mirror the style and imagery of
e.e. cummings or the piano compositions of Sate.
GRG: What is your favourite meal?
M.D.: I am crazy for spaghetti con vongole gymnopedie and probably would say that I order that meal more than any other. But
occasionally I will just decide to take a plain salad and mushroom under olive oil with a fine wine and I am very happy.
GRG: In your opinion in which city can you eat best of all?
M.D.: I have eaten in some of the best restaurants in London ,Paris, and many of the great cities of Europe but the place I
find the greatest selection and strength in depth is Rome. Unless I want a curry then I believe Bradford is the capital
city.
GRG: Which is your favourite restaurant in Rome?
M.D.:
That's a hard one. As mentioned I like simple straightforward cooking where the
emphasis is on good, fresh ingredients. If I'm going to splash out I'd say La
Rossetta near the Pantheon. Its the best fish restaurant in Rome in my opinion
and that really is a quite a compliment. If I just want to relax and have a
great pizza and a cold beer you just can't beat the atmosphere of Formula 1 in
San Lorenzo. You have to pick the restaurant and the meal to chose your mood.
