TURBO B20A ACCORD

 



BODY SHOP

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Front Chin Spoiler

 In Japan, there was a low profile chin spoiler (still available) attached to most front bumper assemblies. I've seen some up here in Vancouver, somebody like Erubuni (?) makes them, but they look stock (different than some of the body-kit front-end ones). 

Here's some dusty pics of the modifications I've made to my front bumper:

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Notice that the USDM front chin has service bolt holes under its bonnet. USDM Accord owners can use these holes to support any chin piece you can find to fit. Anything will fit with a little work. Some 3rd gen Accords are wearing chin pieces from other Hondas/Acuras. Older 'gen 'Tegs, Civic/CRXs, and Legend Coupes are suitable donors for chin pieces.

The chin piece in the pics is from an old school CRX found at a junk yard. It originally came as two side sections and one long front section. All three pieces required some modifications to make them longer. Plastic body filler and thin sheets of metal 'stretched' the chin into one long piece, plus lots of sanding, re-sanding, and primer spray. Top coat was PPG blue-green metallic.

Compare the USDM version to the 'CA' (Civic/Accord) front end at Redshift Racing. Same bumper as the USDM version, but the front turn signals have modifications for city lights. Obviously, the driving lights are different on the CA version. Seems similar to the USDM Honda Civic.

Can barely see the Honda optional antenae extending from the left bumper corner. The top is meant to glow with the letters 'H-O-N-D-A'.

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Painting Bumper Moldings

Preparing the surface to take the paint takes time and patience. Fill any large holes (if necessary) with plastic body filler. This special filler adheres to plastic surfaces extremely well. Mix catalyst and filler as instructions indicate. Cheesegrate file the filler down and let dry.

Smooth out the surface using progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Block sanding (long and short block) will make the process easier and more even.

Keep checking for imperfections, sand as appropriate. When as smooth as possible, spray with primer, and let dry for at least one day.

Use spot putty (Ditzler Red Cap DFL-17) to cover the remaining imperfections (if any), and re-sand. You may want to wet-sand providing you have a fine-enough grit paper. Re-spray again with primer.

Clean in between steps with a wax remover (Acryli-Clean Wax and Grease Remover). Mask-off the parts you don't want sprayed.

The most important aspect with respect to painting is obviously chosing the correct colour to match. PPG blue-green metallic was used. 

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Painting Engine Bay

Essentially the same preperation process as for the bumper, but no plastic filler used. Go heavy with the de-greaser, engine grease will not allow the paint to adhere as well. Masking is also important, especially if you want a clean look with minimal overspray.

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One Piece Hood Modification ( More pics coming soon)

You might or might not want to monkey around with the fine lines already established in the 3rd Gen Accord. If you do, this next modification (to the hood) allows you the option to remove each power motor/light assembly from the left and right hood areas. This also allows for even easier ducting/intake/cooling possibilities. BTW, you won't save much weight though (try ~ 20 pounds total). However, if a one-piece hood is 'up your sleeve', then check this out. This is essentially a cut and paste operation. The extra metal used was from each flip-up eye-brow, but you can use anything you want to 'mold' the hood or 'bridge the gap'. All the metal was form-fitted (hammered) to have a one-piece look, then tacked together (riveted/welded). All the seams were then smoothed-over with body filler and primer. The Final spray was in gloss black (got some guy to spray it for me). The hood-pins are lock-and-key type (Mr Gasket), good for locking-out crime. Took about three days total, including final spray coat (top coat). 

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Interior (More pics coming soon)

Interior is pretty much stock SE-i, including leather front and rear seats, leather-simulated door panels, and remote radio controls mounted on steering wheel. The stereo system was initially from Bose, including a remots amp in the trunk. Present modifications included a shortened shifter, white-faced speedo/RPM gauges, and Autometer 'Silver' gauges.

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Trunk received a full PPG re-spray. Battery re-located to the rear. Rear strut bar is from a '90 Accord.

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