Selected routes on llanberis slate Scare City E6 6a Bus Stop Sling, and SkH at top of wobbly flake. F1 and F0.5 in slot on wall. And that's about it. My Halo E7 6b Seamstress Slab Weighted SkH after niche (good, but very low for crux), HB 1 and 3 sideways (poor) just before crux moves up to overlap. Peg on Windows; RP2 much higher. Rumoured to have been on-sight soloed in the late 80s. F7a+ Heading The Shot E5 6b Seamstress Slab Take three medium size nuts to thread through the bolts, unless you have very tiny krabs. Potential deck out clipping the 2nd bolt. F7a+ The Spirit Level E7 6b Yellow Wall, Serengeti Sustained slab climbing. SkH protects hard moves to RURP (deep, but vertical and rusty), crux moves out right. Massive runout to RP0 and RP1 in small crack just below the top, pretty solid, as long as the rock holds (lots of loose stuff). Awkward top out. Mentrual Gossip E6 6b Dervish Slab R5? sideways at 20ft., weighted SkH (ok) at 30ft., RnR2 at 45ft., R3? sideways and RP2 at 60-70ft. (crux), F1.5 at overlap (and easier but loose climbing). Very sustained slab - F7a+ Comes The Dervish E3 5c Dervish Slab RP0 or nut-key protects the crux moves at 15ft. Take medium nuts, especially R7s, and lots of extenders! F6b Poetry Pink E5 6a/b Rainbow Slab Not really E4, and certainly NOT low in the grade at E4, as it suggests wrongly in the latest guide! F0 in break before first bolts. The very short may have to pre-clip the bolts after the mantle to ease clipping. Good wires is crack above rainbow. F6c+ Splitstream E5 6b Rainbow Slab F1 and RP2 in slot (as for Stiff Syd's Cap), horizontal RP3 before bolt. Technical crux moves to the right of 1st bolt, though moves between Cystitis bolt and top bolt are hard for the short. F7a+ Stiff Syd's Cap E6 6b Rainbow Slab Line on topo in guide (1999) is wrong. F1 and RP2 in first slot, Alien 0 and RnR 1 in second higher slot, first crux (reachy 6b) to break, HB1. Crack is relatively straightforward; RP2 (good), HB3, HB4, F0.5 (poor) halfway between bolts. Crux gaining flat jug to the left at the top of the crack: either a balancy reach left if you're tall (6b), or a more dynamic throw with terrible smear if you're short (6c?). F7a+ to Cystitis bolt, F7b if finish up Cystitis. Acknowledgements: Nick Harm's excellent pocket guide to Slate for the French grades. Paul Clark and Thomas de Gay for info, Nick Bullock for scaring me to death.

Beta Central Share your knowledge: Please submit your beta with this form Beta available: Slackers E7 6b, Curbar L'Homme Programmé F8a, Buoux. Selected routes on Llanberis Slate. Lundy and Cornish granite. Scottish rock. Key R - rock / nut F - Friend or equivalent sized cam RP - guess what. HB - offset brass nut SkH - Skyhook, weighted if neccesary but not tied-down to the floor with a spare rope as that's plain cheating RnR - DMM Rock'n'Roller, the 'camming' nuts with movable 'roller' on one side. Slugs or other sliders such as Ball-nuts might also work