A random selection of granite routes
Cornwall |
Tears Of A Clown E6 6b Sennen |
R1 in 1st break, R2/Camp4 at start of rightwards traverse. RP3 in high break above ledge on traverse left. RP3?, HB Quadcam 00, RP4 in slot before hard moves up to roof. A superb route. F7a+ |
Demolition E6 6a Sennen |
R5 sideways and F1.5 protect up to break, F2s and good large wire. Up slab with tricky move left to gain short crack (possible RP2, but very hard to place). Straightforward climbing up africa-shaped shield. F7a |
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Reflections In A Mirror E5 6a/b Carn Barra |
Hard lowerwall (2 pegs in situ), followed by very loose upper wall - don't bother. Why did this get three stars? F7a+ |
Eye Of The Crystal E7 6c Carn Barra |
Eliminate but worthwhile. RP1, RP2, RnR1 protect powerful moves up to break, F0.5. Camalot 3, F3, F0 (good) in higher break, then run it out for the crux step up to reach top break (R6 or 7?). Safe but huge fall potential! F7b+/7c |
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Lundy |
Flying The Colours E5 6a Lundy |
R2 in flakes; SkH, R4, RP1 in top of hollow flake (sling?); R2 or R3 around arete higher up. F6b+ |
Le Mans E5 6b Lundy |
F1.5s/2s in break, good wires too, spooky to clip peg if short. Many poor RPs in very loose groove above - yuk. F7a+ |
Satan's Slip E1 5a Lundy |
Take plenty of wires, RPs, F1 (RnR1 and SkH optional). F5c/6a |
Controlled Burning E3 5c Lundy |
F3 useful for top roof - can be a bit crumbly in the middle section, but superb. F6c |
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Acknowledgements: thanks to Nick Bullock.
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Beta Central
Key | |
R - | rock / nut |
F - | Friend or equivalent sized cam |
RP - | guess what. |
HB - | offset brass nut |
SkH - | Skyhook, weighted if neccesary but not tied-down to the floor with a spare rope as that's plain cheating |
RnR - | DMM Rock'n'Roller, the 'camming' nuts with movable 'roller' on one side. Slugs or other sliders such as Ball-nuts might also work |
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