INTRODUCTION
- or -
"How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Enjoy Hypothermia"
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Scuba diving in northern Japan is, how should I say it ? Unique ?
That's a good word without sounding too negative. If you're used to places
like Hawaii, Central America, Florida, Guam, or any of those other locations
people actually travel to just to dive, you're in for a suprise here!
First off forget ever getting in the water without a wetsuit on. It'll be
a rare day here if you ever get water warm enough for "shorts and tanks"
diving. Suiting up for a dive here gives you a whole new perspective on
alot of things - like how the shuttle astronauts feel as they don 400 pounds
of spacesuit before stepping out into the airless voids high above the earth
. A full 6mm suit is the norm for most of the locations around here, that
includes hood, gloves, and boots. Now if you're used to diving with all
this rubber on - no problem! If you're used to nothing but a skin, or a
3mm shorty I recommend investing in some more lead - and a new wetsuit.
Now personally I hate wrapping myself up in 6 to 12mm of rubber and slinging
25 pounds of lead around my waist, it makes me feel like a steel-belted
snow tire and reduces my flexibility to that of a well-wrapped Egyptian
mummy! You'll get used to it though - or you'll just give up and take lots
of trips to warmer waters.
Now there are some really good points about diving in northern Japan - All
of the sharks stay far to the south in warmer water! Also you don't have
to worry about learning too much about dangerous marine life like cone
shells, lionfish, sea snakes etc. The oceans up here are devoid of
anything dangerous except maybe for an occasional stonefish. Unfortuantely
they are also devoid of most other marine life too! You won't see colorful
moorish idols, angels, moray eels, or any of the other photogenic creatures
that grace the pages of all the dive publications.
Is it Worth Even Filling My Tanks ?
Yes! For all of the things northern Japan doesn't offer there are hundreds
of things it does! First think about this - you could be land-locked
somewhere, hundreds of miles from the nearest body of diveable water. Here
the Pacific Ocean, Mutsu Bay, and the Sea of Japan are all within easy
driving distance from Misawa. If you feel like an after-work night dive
Tofugauro Beach is only 45 minutes away. Want to go deep? Oga or
Wakinosawa make great weekend trips! Do you enjoy sightseeing as well as
diving? Almost every place to dive around here involves driving through
the scenic countryside and rustic fishing villages. If you're a camper
this place is great. Camping is even more popular in Japan then it is in
the USA. Camping and diving are a natural combination and one of the best
ways to go considering the cost of lodgings in Japan! Picture yourself
relaxing next to a campfire in the woods after a day of diving. Now maybe
you can't get away with BS'ing everybody about how you got out of the jaws
of that tiger shark, or how you found your way out of the Andrea Doria at
275 feet when your light failed, but you can learn new diving techniques
and make alot of new friends.
New Diving Techniques ?
When you get used to the cooler water temperatures and a thicker wet suit
you'll start feeling comfortable in the water. If you're not used to this
type of diving you'll have to work on re-learning bouyancy but that's about
it. The mountain lakes also offer the chance to do some altitude diving.
Lake Towada is one of the most scenic parks in Japan. High in the Hakkoda
mountains this volcanic lake is a popular sightseeing, boating, and hiking
spot for the Japanese. For us the lake is a diving experience! The
surface elevation is 2200 feet, the water is cool, and the lake is DEEP -
over 900 feet in the center!
What About Wreck Diving ?
Forget it! Unless something larger then a dinghy sinks while you're here
wreck diving is something you can read about in the magazines, or travel
south to enjoy. There are some wrecks indicated on maps of Mutsu Bay but
as of this writing nobody has set out to investigate or pin-point their
locations. This is not to say we're not interested, but two of the wrecks
appear to be in shipping lanes and the third is in 300 feet of water! A
lack of accurate Japanese maritime maps also restricts our knowledge of
what's down there.
CERTIFICATION REQUIREMENTS
Requirements to be certified prior to engaging in scuba diving are the
same as in the United States. If you try to purchase equipment in a
Japanese dive shop thay will ask for your certification card, same if you
try to get air (even though it's expensive). In Japan scuba diving is
regulated by the government, unlike the self-regulated U.S. dive industry.
All major certifying agencies are recognized in Japan and have established
headquarters here. PADI and NAUI are the two largest agencies represented
with SSI running a close third. The majority of the Japanese diving
industry is located in southern Japan and many specialize in worldwide
dive travel. The cost of a basic certification course in Japan is very
expensive by our standards, around $1500 or more. Equipment costs average
three times that of the USA due to Japanese luxury taxes and the economy in
general.
SCUBA IN JAPAN
Since scuba diving is government regulated in Japan you'll see some slight
differences if you come across a group of Japanese divers. The most
noticeable difference is the color of scuba tanks. Where American and
others color coordinate with bright neon colors, artwork, and other
expressions of creativity, Japanese tanks come in two colors - Grey and
Black. Grey tanks are for air only and you won't see any visual inspection
stickers on them. There is a VIS requirement in Japan, but they paint
Kanji symbols on the tank rather then use stickers. Black tanks are rarely
seen and contain a gas other then air (i.e. Nitrox). The reason they are
rarely seen is that currently Nitrox (Enriched Air) is not allowed in the
sport diving world, with one exception. The only exception to the Nitrox
prohibition is a sport rebreather system marketed here in Japan that uses a
Nitrox recharging bottle. A special certification is required for this
system, although the author has been told that an American with a
recognized Nitrox certification may purchase and operate these systems in
Japan. Can you get Nitrox in Japan ? You can try. There is a dive shop
in Aomori who has the capability to mix gas, and may provide certified
Nitrox divers with mixes up to EAN39.
OFF-LIMITS AREAS
By order of the Military
The Misawa AB commander has placed the Pacific Coastline from Hachinohe
north to the tip of the Shimokita Peninsula off-limits to scuba diving,
swimming, surfing, sailing, and other water sports. The reason for this
restriction is simple. There is a strong southerly current coming down the
coast, which collides with a strong northerly current. These sea conditions
, along with strong undertows and rip-tides make for dangerous water.
According to charts the bottom here is sand and mud anyway, so the diving
would be less then spectacular - abide by the rules and don't dive here!
According to Common Sense and a Desire to SURVIVE
Fishing villages are everywhere and Japanese propellers for some reason are
a little larger then your average prop! Use caution in selecting dive
sites and stay away from boat traffic and fishing nets. Dive flags are
not required under Japanese law, and many of the boat operators around here
may not even recognize them.
POACHING (FISH AND SHELLFISH)
A Very Costly Mistake!
The taking of fish and shellfish by Americans is prohibited under Japanese
Law. You will most likely see signs posted in English warning you not to
poach. Respect these laws and you'll have no problems with the local
authorities. Fines for poaching include confiscation (permanent) of all
your equipment, and your vehicle. A monetary fine of $1000 (minimum) is
also imposed if you're caught poaching.
Missunderstandings Happen - Be Polite!
Fisherman and local police are very aware of our presence, and especially
divers! On several occasions members of the club have been confronted by
fisherman and police who believe they are poaching, or interfering with
nets and floats. If this happens present them with your membership card
or use the Japanese Phrase card in this guide to explain your presence,
and that you are obeying all laws. The fisherman are very protective of
their natural resources, but the police are incredibly polite and
professional. Our biggest barrier is the language! Always be polite, try
to make yourself understood, and if all else fails just pack up and leave
the area. Before you leave try to get a telephone number for the police
officer or local official who is questioning your presence. When you
return go to the legal office and speak with the Japanese Liason Attorney.
Request that they call the individual and explain the situation. Ask them
to stress that all members of the Rising Sun Divers are aware of Japanese
poaching laws and that we abide by these laws in all of our activities.
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