ENGLISH * CASERTA
WHEN
WE SPEAK OF CASERTA IN THE MIDDLE AGES, WE REFER TO CASERTA VECCHIA, THE SMALL
TOWN WE HAVE JUST VISITED. THE NEW TOWN, SIMPLY CALLED CASERTA, WHICH IS ONE
OF THE MOST PROSPEROUS AND THRIVING PROVINCIAL CENTRES IN CAMPANIA, AT THAT
TIME DID NOT EVEN EXIST. IT WAS CHARLES III OF BOURBON WHO, IN THE EIGHTEETH
CENTURY, DECIDED TO BUILD THE "VERSAILLES" OF HIS KINGDOM IN THIS FERTILE
REGION OF THE "TERRA DI LAVORO", WHICH AT THAT PERIOD WAS NOT EASILY ACCESSIBLE.
CASERTA IS IN FACT HIS ROYAL PALACE. THIS ARCHITECTURAL MASTERPIECE WAS DESIGNED
BY LUIGI VANVITELLI, D COMPRISES 1.200 ROOMS CONNECTED BY 34 STAIRCASES AND
ILLUMINATED BY 1.970 WINDOWS.
FROM ABOVE, WE CAN SEE A VAST NEOCLASSICAL FACADE AND FOUR COURTYARDS DIVIDED
BY TWO SECTIONS OF THE PALACE CROSSING EACH OTHER AT RIGHT ANGLES. GALLERY
SLAVES AND MOHAMMEDAN PRISONERS WERE EMPLOYED IN ITS CONSTRUCTION. WITH THE
REFINED ELEGANCE OF ITS STYLE, THE ROYAL PALACE IS AN OUTSTANDING EXAMPLE
OF THE TASTE AND DECORATIVE SKILLS WHICH CHARACTERIZED A PERIOD OF HIGH CIVILISATION
IN NAPLES. UNFORTUNATELY, OUR BIRD'S EYE VIEW ALLOWS US ONLY TO GUESS AT THE
BREATHTAKING THEATRICAL EFFECTS OF THE GRAND STAIRCASES, THE VAULTED CEILINGS
WITH THEIR FRESCOES, THE SIGHT OF THE APARTMENTS STRETCHING AWAY, EXQUISITELY
DECORATED BY THE MOST ACCOMPLISHED NEAPOLITAN ARTISTS OF THE DAY, NOR CAN
WE ADMIRE THE LITTLE COURT THEATRE, A VERITABLE GEM, IN WHICH WORKS BY PAISIELLO
AND CIMAROSA WERE PERFORMED. IN COMPENSATION FOR THIS LOSS, HOWEVER, OUR VANTAGE
POINT ENABLES US TO TAKE IN THE ENTIRE GRANDIOSE SWEEP OF THE GREAT PARK FORMING
PART OF THE ROYAL ESTATE. IT IS THREE KILOMETRES LONG AND IT IS DIVIDED DOWN
THE CENTRE BY THE WATERCOURSE OF A MONUMENTAL FOUNTAIN, WHOSE ASCENT STARS
SLIGHTLY ABOVE ON THE SLOPE OF THE HILL, AT THE BOUNDARY OF THE PARK, WHERE
THERE IS A DELIGHTFUL ARTIFICIAL WATERFALL SPANNED BY THE PICTURESQUE BRIDGE
OF HERCULES. FURTHER ABOVE, THERE IS THE DOLPHINS' WATERFALL, WHOSE WATERS
PLUNGE INTO THE FOUNTAIN OF AEOLUS, ADORNED WITH NUMEROUS STATUES, AND STILL
FURTER UP, THERE IS THE FOUNTAIN OF CERES AND THE FOUNTAIN OF VENUS AND ADONIS,
DESIGNED BY SALOMONE. FINALLY, THERE IS THE GREAT WATERFALL WITH ITS TWO MARBLE
GROUPS SHOWING ACTAEON AT THE MOMENT OF BEING TRANSFORMED BY THE GODDESS DIANA
INTO A STAG. WALKING ALONG BESIDE THE CASCADE, WE CAN REACH THE CAROLINE AQUEDUCT,
WHICH WAS ALSO DESIGNED BY VANVITELLI. ACCORDING TO THE INITIAL PROJECT, WHICH
WAS NEVER COMPLETELY CARRIED OUT, THE WATER OF THESE CASCADES WAS TO HAVE
REACHED THE QUEEN'S BATHS, SUPPLIED THE TWO MILITARY ESTABLISHMENTS FLANKING
THE PALACE WHERE THE MUNITIONS WERE STORED ( THE "REGIE PALLE" OR "ROYAL CANNONBALLS"
), AND FINALLY RUN PARALLEL TO THE GREAT NAPLES ROAD, THUS MAKING IT POSSIBLE
TO REACH THE ROYAL PALACE OF CAPODIMONTE BY BOAT.
CONCEALED AMONG THE TREES IN THE WOOD, WE CAN GLIMPSE THE CASTELLUCCIO, A
NINETEENTH CENTURY "MEDIAEVAL" FOLLY. THERE REMAINS TO POINT OUT THE LARGE
FISHPOND AND THE TWO MARVELLOUS BOTANICAL AREAS, BOTH RICH IN RARE AND EXOTIC
PLANTS THE ENGLISH GARDEN AND THE WOOD OF S. SILVESTRO.