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Jon22
Member
65 Stang
Registered: July 2002
Location: Marietta, GA |
t-5 swap
I have two questions about a t-5 swap for a '65 stang. First, does anybody know of a swap kit that doesn't require cutting the driveshaft. Second, is there a throwout arm boot that will work with the latemodel bellhousing and the stock clutch linkage.
I would appreciate any advice or info.
Thanks, Jon22
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07-01-02 08:41 PM |
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theorama2000
Super Stallion
1965 mustang 2+2
Registered: January 2002
Location: orange county ca |
im doin this myself, havent gotten to the driveshaft YET, but theres a trans yoke for sale thats 3/4 inch shorter, so the trans fit smoothly without shortning the driveshaft.
if the 80$ new yoke is just the old yoke cut, why cant i just cut my stock yoke 3/4 inch?
__________________
65 2+2 289 factory 4V maaco red
T5, heavy duty clutch; cable clutch
1"down springs, 1" down arms, 1" thick bar, the whole deal, granadas
Holley 600, full pertronix ignition
driver / fix as money comes in....
www.angelfire.com/film/theospics
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07-01-02 08:45 PM |
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65 fastback
Super Stanger
1965 Mustang Fastback
Registered: March 2002
Location: Northern VA |
Jon22 - Here are some helpful links
- http://www.moderndriveline.com/
- http://www.windsor-fox.com/
- http://www.mustangsteve.com/
Getting the drive shaft cut and rebalanced isn't that big of a deal, just go to a local machine shop.
__________________
'65 2+2
302 - 351 heads, Performer RPM, 600 cfm 4bbl.
JBA shorty's, 2.5" tubes, Dr Gas X-pipe
T-5 world class 5 speed, w/ .80 OD
9" rear with 3.55's & T-loc
4 wheel disc brakes
15" Torq-Thrust D's, 225/50 g-Force T/A's
full TCP/Global West suspension
subframe connectors, Traction Masters, Panhard bar
TCP manual rack & pinion
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07-01-02 08:49 PM |
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gp001
Super Stallion
66 Mustang Resto-Mod
Registered: June 2001
Location: So. Cal., U.S.A. |
Why wouldn't you want to cut the DS? It's really not that expensive (had my truck one done for less than $100, Mustang one was MORE because its alum) and you get the piece of mind of knowing it's balanced.
__________________
CHP 347 shortblock , TFS TW heads, Stealth, 650DP Holley, Flowtech hdrs, Dr. Gas X-pipe, 2 Chmbr Flowmaster, MSD 6AL-Dist.& SS coil, March serpentine pulley system, Richmond 6 spd, CFDF, Hydraulic Clutch & T.O. bearing, Currie 9" w/3.50, alum Drv Shft, susp mods, Total Control subframes & tower braces, Trans Am Racing power dual master, 4 wheel disc, 17x8 Torqthrust II's
Something up my sleeve
In a 66 coupe
338.9 RWHP, 335.5 RWTQ
2MFF Fab Shop www.2mfffabshop.com
03 Ford Expedition - Stock
68 Dodge Charger R/T - Going from Semi Drag Car to Resto
85 Dodge W-100 - Parts Hauler/Tow Rig
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07-02-02 01:28 AM |
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geegee
Super Stallion
1965 Mustang 2+2, 1998 Mustang Coupe
Registered: October 2000
Location: near Oklahoma City, OK |
1. No. The conversion slip yoke does not assure you that you won't have to alter your driveshaft. Its no big deal to shorten the driveshaft and rebalance it. I paid $92 to have it shortened, rebalanced and new u-joints provided. I gave it to a local shop, Drivetrain Specialists, and I picked it up the next day. Don't make a mountain out of a mole hill on this.
2. No, there isn't one made but you can makeshift the late model one enough to work. If you're looking for the cleanest installation (show) then using the '69 351w bell housing with CPC adapter comes out very clean looking. This leaves you with the z-bar clutch set up however.
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07-02-02 12:48 PM |
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Jon22
Member
65 Stang
Registered: July 2002
Location: Marietta, GA |
Thanks for the advice. Just for the record, I didn't want to cut the DS in case I dropped the 3speed back in for some reason.
I have about decided to just cut the shaft and use the late housing with fulcrum block. But, it will be a few more months before I'll be done with the engine and ready to install.
Thanks again, Jon22
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07-02-02 07:57 PM |
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theorama2000
Super Stallion
1965 mustang 2+2
Registered: January 2002
Location: orange county ca |
GP: is just cause u get the yoke doesnt mean u dont need to alter the driveshaft, is the yoke neccesary, or should i just get the driveshaft shortened, and keep me original yoke?
...that didnt make much sense. u said "just cause u get the new yoke, doesnt mean u dont need to get the driveshaft shortened."
so then, if u just get the driveshaft shortened, do u not need to spend the extra money on the yoke?
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07-02-02 09:32 PM |
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66 BLAKE 96
Native Texican
Ignore this post
Registered: February 2001
Location: Cowtown |
Some good T-5 swap info including good links.
Due to the insufficiencies of the search feature, namely the 5 character minimum requirement, there are many useful swap threads that are difficult to dig up.
Because of this, any useful swap threads I find (EFI, T-5, AOD, disc brakes, etc...) I will add a new post containing the word " swapper ".
I ask that you guys do the same thing so we can keep these cool threads a search away.
This goes for any new threads that pertain to this also.
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12-06-02 05:10 PM |
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geegee
Super Stallion
1965 Mustang 2+2, 1998 Mustang Coupe
Registered: October 2000
Location: near Oklahoma City, OK |
quote: Originally posted by Jon22
Thanks for the advice. Just for the record, I didn't want to cut the DS in case I dropped the 3speed back in for some reason.
Thanks again, Jon22
Jon,
Here's what happened when I did the swap. I planned to use the conversion yoke (new yoke) from NPD. When the new part arrived I unboxed it and compared it to my C4 yoke. The main difference in them was the C4 yoke was about 1" longer. The longer part was at the leading edge of the spline (although not splined) whereas the new one was splined from the very edge. The new one was a OEM Ford part. When installed it did not to anything to shorten the overall distance between the center of rotation of the "u" joint and the back of the transmission. It made no difference which yoke I used. Either would've worked, however the new one was new and had a fresh surface for the seal to ride on. The old C4 yoke was ribbed from many hours of operation and the seal area was not smooth. Not wanting any of that ATF stuff running out on my driveway, I elected to use the new one.
When the tranny was installed and everything was bolted in place, I tried to install the drive shaft. I was able to install it but it was a very tight fit and the distance between the tailshaft seal of the T5 and the yoke was about 1/4". Obviously this was too close for normal operation. The driveshaft had to be cut. I cut 7/8" out of it leaving the clearance at 1 1/16". Since the yoke's shaft was shorter, I elected to use underride traction bars to ensure the yoke did not pull from the tranny under heavy loads. I did this as insurance against dropping a driveshaft. I also bought a Shelby safety loop for the driveshaft but it did not fit. Even if I makeshifted it to fit, it interfered with the emergency brake cable (another long story).
I found shortening the driveshaft the easiest and simplest solution. You may have to do it anyway, but you don't know for sure until you trial fit it.
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12-07-02 12:32 PM |
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