Ignore this post


Registered: February 2001
Location: Cowtown

The New Buyer FAQ - Buying Advice

We've all been there, and we all know the basics of what to look out for, and a few tricks we've picked up for ourselves along the way. Lets pool those tips into one thread people can reference for thier first classic Mustang buy.

My first submission: Bring an expert.
The value of an experienced classic Mustang owner is priceless. No matter where you are, there is likely someone nearby who is a certified Mustang nut that will be happy to visit the prospective car and advise you. You might pick up a cruisin' buddy in the process.

__________________
66 Fastback-> 289 4bbl / Black, Red interior / C4 auto
96 GT-> Lotsa bolt ons / Black, Black Leather / 5 spd
96 V6-> Wife's car / Pacific Green, Grey interior / stock / 5 spd

Last edited by 66 BLAKE 96 on 12-02-02 at 09:08 AM

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2000 Mustang (convertible), 1973 Mach


Registered: April 2002
Location:

I'll assume this is a "running/driving" car purchase, not a resto...

Check the fluids!! Make sure all fluids are at the correct levels. Make sure the oil is clean, and not foamy, or showing signs of water; the antifreeze is green (not brown, which could mean rust, or radiator stop leak); the transmission (on Automatics) is red and doesnt have a "burnt" smell; etc. Also, ask what weight oil they are using.

__________________
Check out my webpage for pics of both stangs
http://home.earthlink.net/~electricgreen/index.html

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64 1/2 convertible: "stock as a rock"


Registered: May 2000
Location: Tacoma, WA USA

Buy the best car you can possibly afford. "Fixing up" an old trashed out Mustang doesn't make economic sense especially if you are unexperieced,unskilled, untooled and underfinanced.

__________________
SuperDave's timeless wisdom:

1- "Rust never sleeps!"
2- "Given enough time and enough money, anything is possible."
3-"Never say a job is easy until after you have finished it."
4- "Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap."
5- "Just because a part is "new" doesn't mean it is good: VERIFY it!"
6- "Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance:PPPPPP
7- "When in doubt, RTFM! (read the FORD manual)
8- "A little Bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

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70 Mustang Coupe L-Code


Registered: November 2001
Location: Eastern North Carolina

Great Idea Blake!

CHECK THE COWL! The area directly in front of the winshield. In most cases, it's rusted out (if the car has been exposed to the elements).

To fix it on a 64.5-68, it's EXPENSIVE. Expect in excess of a grand to fix it right (Not counting the floor pans). You've got to break every mig-weld on the cap, and that's just getting started.

On 69-70s, the cap is bolted on, so it's easier. They don't make reproduction fix panels for these, so you've got to be lucky enough to find one in the junkyard, and cut the entire section out of it (Good luck, buddy!)

In either case, The symptoms of a rusted cowl is rusted floorpans. Pour a few quarts of water into the cowl from the top. If you don't see any water dripping down inside of the car on to the carpet, You're Lucky, and the car has been well-maintained and/or fixed. If you see it dripping down, prepare for some work, and make sure the price reflects the car's quality.

HAPPY STANGING!

__________________
Email: Black70Stang@cs.com
AIM: Black70Stang
Project: 1970 Ford Mustang Coupe

Click here to rate my 'Stang on CarDomain.com, and see pictures and view history from the beginning until now.

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1967 mustang


Registered: February 2002
Location: North Carolina

The bottom frt. part of the doors are bad to rust out due to clogged drain holes or rotted weatherstripping.
Battery tray and rad. core support are also prone to rusting away due to neglect , (battery acid).
Incorrectly patched floor pans due to previously mentioned cowl, windshield, or wiper arm leaks.
Rusted or collapsed shock towers.

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1971 Mach 1 351c


Registered: June 2002
Location: Springfield, MO

Check the unibody for rust. Because unibody rust sucks. You want a good solid frame to work with.

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1972 and 1965 Mustang, 1952 F2


Registered: August 2002
Location: Mesa, Arizona

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet. but make sure you check the VIN numbers and make sure they match with the door tag (if it's still there) and the stampings on the inner fender aprons and on the title of the car (in states that require a title).

Also make sure that it says FORD on the car some where and not CHEVY on the front of the hood (i think i read that some PO did that to an early mustang )

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1968 Coupe | 1971 Coupe


Registered: July 2002
Location: North Carolina

Check out this site!

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I am the POST-NAZI!


Registered: February 2002
Location:

Take it for a test drive, and run through all the gears several times (automatics also.) If its an automatic, run it through all the gears like 1st, 2nd, drive, reverse, neutral, park. Make sure it shifts smoothly, and make sure it doesn't squeek.

When you goto the owner's house and pull out to take it for a test drive, CHECK THE DRIVEWAY UNDER WHERE THE CAR WAS PARKED. Look for ANY stains. A leaky tranny mainseal or leaky freeze plugs, etc. can be very expensive to fix.

drive down a wide, straight, isolated road at about 40 mph and take your hands off the wheel... see if its aligned right and make sure its not pulling to one side.

I'll post again when I think of more

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Mr. Bubs says YAY!!! for YOU!!!!


Registered: October 2001
Location: Still riding the '73 mach1 w/ the mafia in AL

someone should put the words ' buying a classic ', since most the words you guys have typed won't come to mind when someone's searching for this, and search is only 5 letters or more now

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1973 Gran Torino


Registered: September 2002
Location: Massachusetts

I havn't visited this forum in a long time but i'll just give sme input.

With cars where the engine and transmission have casting numbers, make sure they match the car. Why? Because a transmission that does not match the car can mean it had the crap beat out of it by some kid. Also if its not original the VALUE DECREASES. If someone drops in a bigger engine the VALUE DOES NOT GO UP it goes DOWN. I am a victim of this because to many yuppie idiots are buying classics and think just because it got a bigger engine means its better and they should pay more even though the numbers don't match.

Make sure you know who has done the work, if an ameture has done the work there is a bigger chance of the job being messed up. Proof w/ reciepts is a good way to tell if big jobs were done by expierenced profesionals.

Make sure you estimate the cost of all the repairs you think will need to be done, you may end up paying more then you wanted to.

And remeber Panther Pink is the best muscle car color ever

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Ignore this post


Registered: February 2001
Location: Cowtown

quote:

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Originally posted by mach1one
someone should put the words ' buying a classic '...

---

The search feature will also look through the posts themselves, so a search for "Buying" will bring this one up.

That said, we should all bookmark this thread so we can quickly refer new buyers to it.

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Ignore this post


Registered: February 2001
Location: Cowtown

bumpity bump.

I'm just making sure this FAQ doesn't get wiped from the archives due to inactivity.

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1967 Coupe


Registered: January 2002
Location: Colorado

You gotta luv SD. I miss him.

__________________
Awesome Metallic Candy Apple Red, 2V-289, C-4,Styled Steel Wheels and BFG Radial TA's,Everything
else...restored stock. Daily driven Parade Car

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