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chewymd
Senior Member

65 Mustang Coupe


Registered: November 2001
Location: clovis, nm

I6 to a V8

What all do I have to change to go from a I6 to a V8? And do I REALLY need to change the rearend if I go from a 200 to a 289. Right now I have the 8" rearend but can't I just change the yoke on the driveshaft when I put the 3.03 3-speed tranny in there? And I guess I should ask if the 3.03 will mate up to a 289. Any suggestions would be great.

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chewymd is offline Old Post 03-23-02 03:36 PM
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oldmustangjunki
Street Master

65/66 Mustangs-Hardtops


Registered: March 2001
Location: Cookeville, TN

An 8" is what was found under all V8's except hipo, boss, etc.

__________________
65 Mustang: 5 speed, 3.73's, RAP Ported GT-40 Irons, xe258hr cam, Perf. RPM, 625 cfm Carter AFB, Jacobs ignition
66 Mustang: 289-2V, 3spd, Slipping Clutch, Bashed-up Front End
My current Ebay auctions: http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-...ldmustangjunkie

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oldmustangjunki is offline Old Post 03-23-02 04:38 PM
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SuperDave
Early-Model Mentor

64 1/2 convertible: "stock as a rock"


Registered: May 2000
Location: Tacoma, WA USA

Someone else answer this one, PLEEEEZ!

__________________
SuperDave's timeless wisdom:

1- "Rust never sleeps!"
2- "Given enough time and enough money, anything is possible."
3-"Never say a job is easy until after you have finished it."
4- "Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap."
5- "Just because a part is "new" doesn't mean it is good: VERIFY it!"
6- "Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance:PPPPPP
7- "When in doubt, RTFM! (read the FORD manual)
8- "A little Bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

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SuperDave is offline Old Post 03-23-02 04:39 PM
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bsailors
Super Stanger

2000 GT 66 Rust Bucket Coupe


Registered: September 2001
Location: Middle of NoWhere

There are lots of recent thread on this subject, and SD has done several DO YOU REALLY WANT TO DO THIS informative threads with all the details.

I would HIGHLY suggest doing a search.


One question though, how/when did you get the 8 inch rear, and are you sure? The 200 I6's did not come stock with a 8 inch rear, and the stock I6 rear WILL NOT handle a v8.

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bsailors is offline Old Post 03-23-02 05:29 PM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

SuperDave is probably going to argue with me about this one but I have talked to and seen quite a few I6 to V8 swaps where the car was left basically ALONE. I keep hearing from different people that you gotta change this and you gotta change that, well BULL! As long as you are not putting in a totally whacked out high horse 289, you can leave the suspension alone. Not everyone races their stangs, some of us just like to cruise. If the car in question is not gonna be pushed alot then why spend the money?? The components will be fine. As far as the rear end, you can leave it. I am not sure about the tranny, just measure the length and see if they are the same. If they are the same length then you should be fine, as long as the yokes are the same. I am not sure about the 3.03, maybe someone can shed some light on it for us.

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-23-02 05:38 PM
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oldmustangjunki
Street Master

65/66 Mustangs-Hardtops


Registered: March 2001
Location: Cookeville, TN

quote:
Originally posted by Ghxst
I am not sure about the tranny, just measure the length and see if they are the same. If they are the same length then you should be fine, as long as the yokes are the same. I am not sure about the 3.03, maybe someone can shed some light on it for us.

The input shaft diameter and spline count would need to match the pilot bearing and clutch too.

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oldmustangjunki is offline Old Post 03-23-02 06:15 PM
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SuperDave
Early-Model Mentor

64 1/2 convertible: "stock as a rock"


Registered: May 2000
Location: Tacoma, WA USA

Oh, alright, I'll keep it simple:

The six to v-8 swap makes sense if:

1. You place no value on your time.
2. You place great value on your mechanical education.
3. You don't care that buying a V-8 car is less expensive.

(Geez, that was fun!)

__________________
SuperDave's timeless wisdom:

1- "Rust never sleeps!"
2- "Given enough time and enough money, anything is possible."
3-"Never say a job is easy until after you have finished it."
4- "Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap."
5- "Just because a part is "new" doesn't mean it is good: VERIFY it!"
6- "Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance:PPPPPP
7- "When in doubt, RTFM! (read the FORD manual)
8- "A little Bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

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SuperDave is offline Old Post 03-23-02 09:08 PM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

O.k., here we go again. LOL, SuperDave, I just bought an I6 68 coupe the other day that really only need a little help. I.E., windshield and interior peices, and a few other parts that I already have. I only paid $230.27. Now try to tell me it's cheaper to get a V8 stang. No offence, but sometimes some people can just find good deals. I understang my luck may be better than others but if the person WANTS to do something, lets just help em get what they want with THEIR project done and not what you would do if it was YOUR project. I see you saying the same things all the time, no disrespect intended but enough already. You are actually starting to sound anti-helpfull, and I know I will probably catch alot of crap for saying it but that is how I feel. Sorry if I pulled the wrong string with anyone with this.

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-23-02 10:53 PM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

P.S. Wrenchin and learnin is half the fun......Driving the finished product of your blood, sweat and tears is the other half.

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-23-02 10:55 PM
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SuperDave
Early-Model Mentor

64 1/2 convertible: "stock as a rock"


Registered: May 2000
Location: Tacoma, WA USA

Ghxst: Do I have to call in Paul Harvey to get: "The Rest of the Story"? I'm sure that you'll soon realize that a V-8 car in similar condition can be had for a low price as well. Initial purchase price is not the question; by the time you get the car on the road, you might want to get back to me about what it cost you.

Sure, I can take the "heat" of critics. I welcome your comments as I'm sure everyone here does also. We don't HAVE to see things the same way do we? Regarding the "anti-helpful" remark, you might want to review today's posts before you stand by that comment.

I really don't mean to "one-up" you on this BUT I once bought a '65 six coupe from an insurance company for $150. It had been stolen and the front end sheet metal from the windshield forward stripped. I also bought a badly rear-ended V-8 coupe for another $150. In took the nose off the rear-ended car, put it on the six then painted the entire car. I sold the freshly done six for $4,200 and sold the hulk of the V-8 car to a guy doing your conversion for $1,200. Yes, my friend, SD knows the ropes. (this case from the SD Archieves Collection and is totally true!)

__________________
SuperDave's timeless wisdom:

1- "Rust never sleeps!"
2- "Given enough time and enough money, anything is possible."
3-"Never say a job is easy until after you have finished it."
4- "Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap."
5- "Just because a part is "new" doesn't mean it is good: VERIFY it!"
6- "Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance:PPPPPP
7- "When in doubt, RTFM! (read the FORD manual)
8- "A little Bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

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SuperDave is offline Old Post 03-23-02 11:31 PM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

LMAO, ya, I like the Paul Harvey comment, and you are probably right. But I am going to make a race car out of the I6 car so as far as putting it on the road, it'll never happen. It's just that so often I see you telling people NOT to do the I6 to V8 swap, but for alot of people it's not the cost or time but how much fun they have doing it. Not all "true"(i.e. 60's, early 70's) stangs came with V8's, but most people now want them that way. If there was nobody around willing to take the time to change the I6 cars to V8's, then there would be a lot less of them around. I know there are alot of people that think "stock" is the best and only way to have a car. Well, I say yes and no. In the case of the I6 cars, I think modifying them is the way to go. In the case of an unmolested example, now that I would leave alone. Hell, even my 289 original 68 coupe is gonna get the highly modified treatment. I have been a stang freek all my life, and even though it has been a short 28 years, until last fall I had never owned one. I grew up building models, and at this point I have over 50, and still have the very first one I ever built(even though it has been redone over the years). I'm sorry for critisizing you but you always seem to tell people not to do it instead of saying it's a lot of work and not worth it unless you really WANT to do it. That's all I was trying to say SD, maybe I need to take Princess out and just cruise for an hour or 5, LOL. Just kick me in the butt and tell me to get outa the way SD. As always, your wisdom and knowledge shines through in the end. I paid 2k for my 68 289 coupe.

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-24-02 09:52 AM
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Realmongo
Super Stanger

1964-1/2 Coupe


Registered: October 2001
Location: Silverdale, WA

I did that swap back in the 1970s when those cars were plentiful and cheap. I had a 1966 6 cylinder Mustang with 3 speed manual transmission when I started. It is an incredible amount of work because Ford built the 6 cylinder cars so cheap to save factory money. First you need to determine if you really have an 8 inch rear. Most 6 cylinder Mustangs had the Integral rear end. It is easy to tell the difference because on the 8 inch rear the carrier will unbolt from the rear and you can unbolt and remove it from the housing after you pull the driveshaft and axles out. The integral is one piece. To emphasize how weak that rear end is, let me tell you I blew the spider gears out of it with the 6 cylinder. Beyond that, we dumped the 3 speed manual transmission because they were junk too in favor of a C4 out of a 1972 Maverick that had recently been wrecked and used a stock V8 Mustang driveshaft. Now comes the really ugly part. After you put the new rear in with its 5 bolt lug nut arrangement and larger drum brakes, and rear springs, you need to change out the entire front end. I mean springs, steering gear linkage, knuckels, hubs, drums, wheel bearings, etc. I think the only common component is the idler arm bracket that is bolted to the frame. The stock front end is way too weak to handle the weight of the 289. The drums are not large enough to stop it, and the steering linkage would go right through the V8's oil pan. Best thing to do is what we did. Get a wrecked or rusted out V8 car with no engine ot transmission and then you have the parts you need to do the swap. Strangely I still have the original parts books that showed everything that is different and common to the 6 cylinders and V8s. Good luck.

Last edited by Realmongo on 03-24-02 at 11:13 AM

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Realmongo is offline Old Post 03-24-02 11:10 AM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

The 8" rear almost looks identical to the 9", unbolts from the FRONT just like the 9".

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-24-02 02:26 PM
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SuperDave
Early-Model Mentor

64 1/2 convertible: "stock as a rock"


Registered: May 2000
Location: Tacoma, WA USA

Realmongo makes my point without me having to go to all the work of doing so! Thank you, sir!

Ghxst: Did you pick up on the part where I sold the rear-ended, noseless coupe for $1,200? That was a DEAL! He got a complete running and illegally driveable car with a fresh 289/C-4. I could have doubled that but my wife wanted it out of her parking place NOW!

__________________
SuperDave's timeless wisdom:

1- "Rust never sleeps!"
2- "Given enough time and enough money, anything is possible."
3-"Never say a job is easy until after you have finished it."
4- "Cheap ain't good and good ain't cheap."
5- "Just because a part is "new" doesn't mean it is good: VERIFY it!"
6- "Proper Prior Planning Prevents Poor Performance:PPPPPP
7- "When in doubt, RTFM! (read the FORD manual)
8- "A little Bondo and a little paint can make a Mustang what it ain't."

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SuperDave is offline Old Post 03-24-02 02:33 PM
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chewymd
Senior Member

65 Mustang Coupe


Registered: November 2001
Location: clovis, nm

Thanks for the help everyone.

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chewymd is offline Old Post 03-26-02 01:28 PM
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falconlover
Member

Two '69 Falcons & an '01 Ranger


Registered: November 2001
Location: Colorado Springs

I wasnt gonna but in, but...

I still dont see answers to your questions. These are based on my experience alone:



"And do I REALLY need to change the rearend if I go from a 200 to a 289."

Probably, if you dont want it to break.



"Right now I have the 8" rearend but can't I just change the yoke on the driveshaft when I put the 3.03 3-speed tranny in there?"

If you really have the 8", then you dont need to swap the rear end out. The 8" came with 289s. If it is like my original Falcon 200, then I would have thought it was the 6cyl rearend.

I did the 200->289 swap decades ago and used the same original driveshaft, no modifications whatsoever, same yoke (yolk?) too.



"And I guess I should ask if the 3.03 will mate up to a 289."

Yes it should. My '66 289 had a 3.03 attached. When I did the swap, the v8/3.03 were the same length as the 200/automatic. I guess it might depend on the year of manufacture of both your engine and tranny. I think the 3.03 was standard equip on the 289 and they are quite strong.

Have fun and GO FOR IT!

__________________
'69 Falcon 2dr
289x.030 over / Toploader 4 speed w/Hurst / 2.55 open 8"
Hedman hedders / Dual exhaust
Granada front disks / 15/16" front anti-sway bar / 1/2" rear anti-sway bar / 620# front springs minus 1 coil
'69 Fairlane dash and bucket seats
Vintage 15x8.5 American Racing Equipment / 225x50x15 BFG TAs

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falconlover is offline Old Post 03-26-02 01:49 PM
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Realmongo
Super Stanger

1964-1/2 Coupe


Registered: October 2001
Location: Silverdale, WA

Question

Just to be sure we are all on the same page here, what year 6 cylinder Mustang are we starting with? I am assuming it is a 1964 1/2 - 1966 like I did the swap in, meaning your transmission, etc can't be used. But if we are talking 1967 then it gets easier.

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Realmongo is offline Old Post 03-26-02 02:18 PM
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mustangdave
My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

1967 mustang


Registered: February 2002
Location: North Carolina

67 is a WHOLE LOT EASIIER! The I6 and V cars in 65 and 66 utilized all different suspension components, but in 67 they used the same inner tie rods, outer tie rods, idler arm, center link, control arms, etc... The only difference was in springs, sway bar, and the five lug vs. four lug. You'll need new springs on a car this old anyway, so factor that out, buy some used spindles and btake setup and the front end conversion is only a couple hundred by the time you buy bearings, calipers, brakes, etc...

__________________
6 to 8 conversion
302
headers
dual exhaust
deluxe interior w/brushed aluminum
needs lotsa work

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mustangdave is offline Old Post 03-26-02 03:30 PM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

That is a dang good question, what year IS IT? For some reason I had it in my mind that it was a 67, that's why I had given the advice that I had.

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-26-02 04:04 PM
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chewymd
Senior Member

65 Mustang Coupe


Registered: November 2001
Location: clovis, nm

It's a 65. I have the 2.77 tranny right now but like I said before, I have a 3.03 waiting to go in. I'm thinking more and more about leaving it original and getting a 67 Fastback. Anyway, sorry for the grammar (yolk), I guess I was thinking about eggs. But you're right, it is "yoke". I guess I just ass u me d that I had the 8' rear but since I've read all of your replies I see that I probably have the "I6 rearend". I'm learning, I'm learning. I've only had the car for a little less than a year. And since my ex-wife's ass got bigger after a year of being with her I figured.......well.........you get the picture. If anybody has anymore inputs please let me know before I make a final decision. Thanks again everybody.

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chewymd is offline Old Post 03-26-02 09:35 PM
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DrkPhanstm
Conversion King

'66 Coupe- 200 I6 '01 Jetta TDI


Registered: December 1999
Location: Small Town Oklahoma

quote:
Originally posted by Ghxst
As long as you are not putting in a totally whacked out high horse 289, you can leave the suspension alone. Not everyone races their stangs, some of us just like to cruise. If the car in question is not gonna be pushed alot then why spend the money??


Just curious.... but why bother doing the swap at all if you are just gonna put in a factory V8? I mean.. it would be alot easier and alot cheaper to just hop up the 6cyl some if you just plan on crusing around! The only reason to swap to a V8 would be for alot more power.... in which case YES you need to do the swap right.

__________________
really its Almost running now...really really close!!

66 coupe : 200 Sprint spit headers and dual exhaust, Carter FY, and a shiny chrome valve cover!!!; cut down GT coils, 4leaf rears, KYB shocks, 1in front & 3/4 rear swaybars; SSBC disk brakes;TCP subframes:8in rear with 3.50 gears, Infinity Kappa's in custom kickpanels with a Clarion deck and Fosgate amp

***For Sale: 95 F-150 ***

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DrkPhanstm is offline Old Post 03-26-02 11:48 PM
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Ghxst
Stanger

1968 302 Coupe. 1968 302 Fastback Racer


Registered: November 2001
Location: Dalton, NH

O.k., now this is just my O.P. so I hope I don't offend anyone this time. This is what I would do if it was me. If it is a coupe, soup up the I6. If it is a fastback, spend the time and money and convert it since they are alot harder to find.

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Ghxst is offline Old Post 03-27-02 06:08 AM
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chewymd
Senior Member

65 Mustang Coupe


Registered: November 2001
Location: clovis, nm

What's are some ways I can soup up the I6?

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chewymd is offline Old Post 03-27-02 08:29 AM
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Realmongo
Super Stanger

1964-1/2 Coupe


Registered: October 2001
Location: Silverdale, WA

Lightbulb

Go to www.cliffordperformance.com and download the PDF catalog. Then go to their archives and download the 10 pages to the Mustang 6 cylinder hop up article. You will get the idea.

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Realmongo is offline Old Post 03-27-02 08:48 AM
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falconlover
Member

Two '69 Falcons & an '01 Ranger


Registered: November 2001
Location: Colorado Springs

quote:
Originally posted by chewymd
sorry for the grammar (yolk),



HaHa...It is me who spelled it wrong, you are alright! I always look at that word and think "dang, is that right????"

Anyhow...
I sorta agree with others here about "why bother" and "dont do it unless you change over everything including suspension etc", except that I just figured that you just plain wanted to do it, for fun. Sure a factory 289 doesnt have ominous power, but it sure woke up my car. You would have a lot of fun driving it. I also see it as a starting point...if you do the swap, you can build on more power later as your time and wallet allow.

Obviously, from my sig, Im not a real power-hero, I just like to cruise. And when the interstate starts heading uphill, I like not having to slow down.

Sure a fastback will have much greater value, but you arent selling a car today, youre building one.

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falconlover is offline Old Post 03-27-02 10:45 AM
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