AMERIKA SAMOA
by inelegy
Pros: Want to get away from it all? This is the place!
Cons: Don't go here if you bring your problems with you!
The Bottom Line If you are an adventurous traveler and willing to let
the road take you where it will, this is the place.
Recommended: Yes
A lot of passion has been spent writing about traveling to American
Samoa. Most people either really love the place, or absolutely detest it.
There seems to be little common ground. The mistake most positive reviewers
is they fail to explain how a traveler makes the experience a good one.
A positive review will talk much of the landscape, the underwater
beauty, the terrific people and culture (which I'll do as well), making it
sound like an unspoiled Shangri-la, without preparing a potential traveler
for the reality of spending time in American Samoa.
American Samoa *is* an amazing and unique place, precariously balanced
between the commercialization and ultimate cultural erosion of Hawai'i,
and the unsullied vision of the South Seas ideal.
Don't go to American Samoa if you expect four-star service; expect to
make your own opportunities. Don't go to American Samoa and expect your
hotel and room to be like the Hilton Waikaloa Village, you don't travel to a far destination to look at the walls of a hotel. Don't go to American Samoa
if you are a condescending tourist who expects “colorful locals” to pander
to you, expect to make real friendships with your hosts and people you
make the effort to speak to. Don't go to American Samoa if you want to be led
around like sheep, go to the islands if you want to find your own adventures.
Bottom line, a good attitude, an open mind and a generous heart will
pay you back tenfold in these islands. A smile and a laugh will see you through the most trying situation. You have to be prepared to participate, to try, to see where the road takes you, and to not have a lot of preconceived
ideas and plans which are set in stone.
One of my favorite memories of American Samoa took place at the airport
during my last arrival. A palagi (white) tourist and his wife were
arguing with one another while wrestling a stack of luggage taller that each of them through the crowd which shows up every time the Hawaiian Airline DC-10
arrives. He was hot, sweaty, and angry; she was disappointed and sad.
Their rental car wasn’t ready and he was blowing his stack. They’d just
arrived... I had to laugh! What were they thinking when they made plans to
come here? Why do people travel and set these traps for themselves? Aren’t
you supposed to chill out on vacation?
American Samoa has its own rhythm, its own sense of priorities, and
those things aren't going to change for you. If you are prepared to immerse
yourself in the warmth of the culture, however, and you'll find the water is inviting, intoxicating, and may provide you with an experience that will not only stay with you for a life time, but change you utterly.
OK. Sermon over. I'll try to encapsulate some of my experiences and
recommendations.
TUTUILA
Tutuila is the island most travelers see, and it is also where most
negative reactions come from. It is an amazingly rugged, rainforest-coated
island rising from the Pacific depths. The majority of the population lives
here, and what little flat land is crowded with houses, buildings, and the
roads are gridlocked with pickup trucks and S.U.V.s.
The harbor area is densely populated, and more than a little run down.
When the winds are right, the stomach turning odor of the tuna canneries
spill into downtown Pago Pago. Cruisers tell of the filth of the harbor, and
these reports are generally true, but this pollution isn't so much the fault
of the people than the geography of the harbor that prevent the tides from
properly flushing the harbor.
Tutuila has its good points. Transportation is a piece of cake on the
colorful aiga busses. There are plenty of great restaurants everywhere,
and the prices are very reasonable. Great scenery is everywhere, especially
on the east, west and north sides of the island. Tisa's Barefoot Bar and
the Yacht Club are great places to meet people and find things to do which
you may not have considered.
The Rainmaker Hotel lives up to all the negative things which have been
written about it, but there are plenty other, better options. On my
last stay, I spent one night at the Pago Airport Inn. My room was clean and
comfortable. I had asked for a ride from the airport when I made my
reservations, and the driver was waiting for me when I emerged from
customs. The staff was friendly and made sure a driver arrived at 4:30am to take me back to the airport so I could make my flight to Manu’a on time.
The best way to see Tutuila is befriend a local. Everyone I've met is
friendly and trustworthy (although, as in any situation where people
are involved, there are going to be exceptions to the rule), and love to
show off their island, taking you to places you don't find in the tourist
books.
MANU'A ISLANDS
Ofu, Olosega, and Ta'u are the real attraction in American Samoa. A few
cars, small and well-kept villages, friendly locals, and pristine
rainforests and beaches are what you'll experience.
Ofu and Olosega are mirror images of one another, each a quarter of an
otherwise submerged ancient volcano. A narrow bridge connects these two
islands.
The Va'oto Lodge is the only place to stay on Ofu and Olosega, but what
a special place it is! Margie and Tito Malae have opened their land to
visitors. Ten rooms in five fales face the beach at the foot of Mount
Tumutumu. The price is more than right, as well.
The rooms are clean and functional, if not a little run down. Tom, a
friend of the family who lives in a house at the eastern end of the property,
has been actively repairing many of the rooms lately, so things may have
changed since my last visit.
The Va'oto has the best beach in the territory, if not the world.
Clean, white sands, and the only footsteps you see will probably be your own.
The water is crystal clear and safe to swim in.
Meals are provided for a reasonable price (good thing too, there are no
restaurants on Ofu or Olosega). Meals are served in a communal room at
a single, large table and are a great opportunity to meet your
lodge-mates. The water is safe to drink, and comes from the aquifer under the island where rainwater percolates through the spongy lava rock that forms the
island.
Ofu airport, served by the de-Havilland Twin Otters flown by Samoa Air,
is footsteps away from the lodge, but not to fear, only two flights a day
disturb your stay . . . and it's always fun to wander over to the
airstrip to see what new visitors have joined you.
Ofu village lies a mile west of the lodge. Here you'll find the marina,
the bank, the post office, a couple of *very* small grocery stores (both
marked by tiny signs proclaiming "Store"), a few dozen neat houses, one
beautiful church, gorgeous scenery, and the trail to the top of Tumutumu.
West of the lodge is the National Park. Nothing there other than
pristine beach and rainforest, as well as some of the most untouched coral reef you'll find in the world. No crowds, no traffic, no rangers, no
restrooms, and no gift shop . . . in a word: perfection!
Past the park are a couple of settlements of a few fales, and, just
before the bridge to Olosega, one last store selling the only gasoline
available on the two islands.
My experiences on Olosega and Ta'u are limited, so I will not be able
to go into detail. My impressions tell me that things compare similarly with
Ofu; the only difference is that Ta'u hasn't got the great beaches. It is a
far taller, and jagged island.
If you are looking to escape your box, to get out of your comfort zone
and into something much, much better . . . American Samoa waits for you. If
you travel to be waited on and treated like a number on a tourist bus,
better stay in Waikiki . . . it will serve your illusions better.
American Samoa has much to offer those who have a keen eye and an open
heart.
Tofa!
Some helpful links:
Samoa Air info: http://www.samoanet.com/sbusdir/airline/airline.html
Vaoto Lodge: http://members.tripod.com/~vaoto/
National Park Homestay: http://www.nps.gov/npsa/homestay/index.htm
Some of my brother's and my photos of Manu'a appear here:
http://www.oocities.org/imanua/ManuaSightsTSkaggs.html
