Go out and re-mount the calipers to your bike.  I didn't take pictures of this because it would be pretty much exactly like the removal process, except in reverse. 

You are supposed to use 2 new sealing washers ("crush washers") on each brake line banjo joint (one on each side of the brake line).   However, I've been known to re-use washers and not have any leaks.

Tighten the bolts to the  proper torque specifications.  The table below contains the torque specs from the service manual.  Since they specify a range, I calculated an average which I put in parentheses.  I find it easier to set my wrench to the midway mark.  Also, I converted the brake line foot-pounds to inch-pounds by multiplying by 12.  My foot-pound wrench's torque range starts very close to that, whereas it's closer to the middle of the scale of my inch-pound wrench.

Put a new cotter pin through  the torque link bolt.

Once it's all buttoned up, refill the reservoirs with fresh DOT4 brake fluid, bleed the air out of the system, and test the brakes.  You'll need quite a bit of fluid to fill the lines and push the pistons out from their fully retracted positions.  Remember that all the passageways and cavities in the caliper need to be filled,  so bleeding will take a bit longer than usual.  It will also likely need to be re-bled after a bit of riding.  Take care that when it's all said and done, the fluid level is not higher than the "upper" line.  Some listers have pointed out situations where the fluid in a too-full reservoir expanded, but had nowhere to go.  This results in the pistons not retracting properly and causing a dragging brake. 

 Priming:
On recent VX800-L postings, listers pointed out that it was near impossible to get brake pressure after re-filling an empty system.  Some common methods of "priming" the system are:

• pump fresh fluid UP from the bleeder valve into the master cylinder.  Be very careful that you don't end up overfilling the reservoirs or splashing fluid on anything.
• forcefully suck fluid DOWN through the system using a Mity-Vac tool, or plastic syringe (commonly found in the veterinary section). 
• One lister suggested just opening the bleeder and letting gravity fill the system over a period of hours.  I don't remember the details of this, but  I think it involved strapping the brake lever down.  Keep a hose on the bleeder valve and route it into a pan or jar.

Once you have some brake pressure, check to make sure that it stops the wheel and immediately releases it.  Check for leaks.  Take it for a gentle ride and then check again for leaks and any sign of dragging.   Re-bleed the system as necessary.

Finally, here is a good site with lots of similar info. They have a really neat Flash presentation on disk brake caliper rebuilids and operation... http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rbrakes.html    For more, see http://www.dansmc.com/hydraulics.htm and  http://www.enfieldmotorcycles.com/parts_diskbrakes.html.

Please email me at @optonline.net 
if you have any comments on these pages

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Rear caliper removal
Front caliper removal
Rear caliper disassembly and repair
Front caliper disassembly and repair
Installation and testing