Theo Takeda on "Lichen Attack Crack" **** 5.10c
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Las Conchas is a relatively small climbing area located about 30 minutes from Los Alamos, in the Jemez mountains. It can also be easily reached from Albuquerque, and it's a popular spot for rappellers, fishermen, and all manner of partying high school students. The climbing here is, in my opinion, only mediocre. However, some of it is quite excellent, if you know where to look. Plus, the environment is really nice - there's a gurgling brook, grassy meadows, and plenty of shade from the numerous trees. It's very nice in late spring, summer, and early autumn. Snow will end climbing activities in the fall, most years, and won't completely melt until late spring.
The rock is a type of welded tuff which is much coarser and harder than Cochiti Mesa Tuff. While this is good for the bolts placed here, it is hell on one's hands. A good place to learn NOT to overgrip. Some people made some relatively poor choices when bolting routes as well. Many routes require gear - some medium cams, tricams, and nuts will probably cover you. Most are on the short side - the longest is about 100 feet.
To reach the crag(s): From Los Alamos - Drive on highway 502 to the "back gate" and turn right (west) onto State road 4. Drive, drive, drive. Up to and through the Valle Grande (huge, huge meadow in an old volcano crater), and continue until you see the forest service "Las Conchas" campground. Actually, this is not the area. Keep going for another half mile and park in the pullout on the right, with a wooden fence, where the river crosses the road again. To your east (and across the river) is a long, low wall called the Cattle Call wall. Other walls are scattered along the trail that runs parallel to the river, and downstream.
Ethics: There's still some potential for new routes here, but the area has fallen out of favor with sport climbers and traditionalists alike. Most people have left gear placements and only bolted blank face sections of routes.
History: Developed from the late 80s to present by a variety of northern NM locals.
Camping: Ya gotta pay, most of the time. Pick up your trash.
Weather: Summer is the best. Watch for thunderstorms.
Warning: Some of these bolt counts may be wrong. Gear recommendations may also have errors. Both are from memory. Areas are listed as you go downstream from the parking area.
Recommended routes are shown in orange
_______ Cattle Call Wall _______
The wall on the east side of the stream, perhaps 300 yards east of the parking area. There's a decent traverse of the base of the wall that can be done if you've got no partner. One of Las Conchas' most popular crags, due to the ease of setting topropes and the moderate grades.
1. ? 5.8 gear, 2 bolt anchor The crack on the far left side of the wall. 45 feet. Popular with rappellers. Take medium to small cams and nuts. 2. ? 5.9 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor The lefthand bolted sport route. A good beginner lead. 3. Cow Pies for Breakfast 5.11a 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor A nice route on the right side of the crag. More pumpy than it looks.
There are also numerous topropes from 5.6 to 5.10 scattered on the wall, some with bolted anchors. They tend to be somewhat low quality. Explore these on your own.
_______ Entrance Rock _______
This may have another name, but I call it entrance rock. It's located just 150 yards downstream of the parking area, right on the left side of the trail.
1. Woof Toof Noof Roof 5.10d 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor This one could have gone another 20 feet. It's still a decent route, though, up the steep left side of the wall on large huecos. 2. ? 5.6 R/X no bolts, tree anchor The vegetated, low angle face around the corner from Woof Toof. Pro is surprisingly bad unless you have very large cams. A decent route, though. 3. Drive-by Shooting 5.10b 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor The low-angle face right of #2, just a few feet from the trail. The crux is at the bottom. 4. North Face Crack 5.11 R ? no bolts, anchor? I've never done this one. Climb the crack systems right of Drive-by.
_______ Chilly Willy Wall _______
Just after the first time the trail crosses the stream (a log over a murky cesspool), construct yourself a rock bridge and re-cross the stream (heading northeast). Walk east for 50 yards, once you're on the other side, and you'll discover the buttresses of the Chilly Willy Wall. This area sees almost no traffic.
Theo Takeda on "Donkey Show" *** 5.10a, at the Chilly Willy Wall
1. Donkey Show 5.10a 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor The route on the far left side of the crag, accessed by walking north along a faint trail for 50 yards or so, following the base of the rocks. There's an abandoned, bolted project just to the right. Beware! You can't lower off of this anchor without trashing your rope, it's easiest to walk off. 2. Wet Willies 5.11c 6 bolts, gear anchor The slabby face just left of the routes on the boulder that leans against the main cliff. The bottom is scary and somewhat loose. Take a couple of medium to large cams for the anchor, and walk off the back side. 3. ? 5.8 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor The leftmost route on the small boulder (the north face). The best of the boulder routes, but still a stupid decision to bolt. 4. ? 5.9 3 bolts, anchor for #3 Up the west face of the boulder. Super lame. One hard move. 5. ? 5.8+ 3 bolts, anchor for #3 The south face of the boulder. A halfway decent, though short, route. 6. Tasty Freeze 5.9 R 3 bolts, gear anchor Take cams up to #4 for this excellent, though somewhat scary route, which fires up the southwest face of the main wall, 40 feet right of the boulder. Take some medium cams to anchor, walk off the back side. 7. Turkey Sandwich 5.7? no bolts, gear anchor The crack system right of #6. Haven't done this, it's supposed to be ok.
______ The Love Shack _______
This wall is just before the second log bridge, on the left. It's a steep cave, with 2 difficult routes that nobody ever does.
0. Captain America 5.11a? 3 bolts? A face up and left of the cave. Never done it. 1. Happy Entrails 5.12d? bolts, anchor for #2 The lefthand steep route. 2. ? 5.12? 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor I think you're supposed to stick clip the first bolt. I have never done this route though, so I don't know.
_______ The Sponge _______
Home to some good sport routes. To approach this area, hike across 4 log bridges. As you cross the fourth one (to get to the north side of the river), the Sponge will be directly in front of you.
1. Sal's Neuroses 5.10d 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor Very short route on the rock to the left of the Sponge. 2. ? 5.11a 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor A painful, bad route on the left side of the Sponge. The crux is clipping all the bolts. 3. I am Broccoli 5.12c toprope Toprope the center face of the boulder just left of Pumpin' Huecos. 4. Pumpin' Huecos 5.10d 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor Needs another bolt at the top, and at the bottom. Sketchy 5.10 leaders will want someone to pre-clip the first for them, and take a few small to medium cams for the top. Las Conchas' best sport route, IMO. 5. Hollywood Tim 5.9+ 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor A #1 camalot at the bottom will ease your mind somewhat. Climb the right side of the Sponge buttress on moves that are much harder than they look. Another route (5.10) breaks off to the left, but I can't recommend it, as it's badly bolted and dangerous. 6. Hail Dancer 5.9 1 bolt, 2 bolt anchor Place medium cams and small nuts, and clip one bolt, on the way to the anchors. This route is 100 feet right of the Sponge itself, on a small buttress. There are some more routes to the right of this, but I've never done them, or seen anyone do them. They look decent. More info when I can get it.
_______ The Leaning Tower _______
The best Las Conchas has to offer. There are several excellent routes on this formation, which is accessed by hiking 5 minutes downstream from the Sponge.
1. ? 5.8? no bolts, tree anchor The huge offwidth on the left side. Bring as many giant cams as you can steal. I have never done this route. 2. ? 5.12c? 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor An uncompleted Rick Smith Project on the prominent arete just left of Lichen Attack Crack. Needs several more bolts, and a name. 3. Lichen Attack Crack 5.10c no bolts, gear anchor Take small to medium pro for this stupendous dihedral with a hand/finger crack in the back. Rap off of a tree to get down. The best trad route at Las Conchas. 4. ? 5.12b/c? 5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor Short route up the left side of the leaning tower proper, follows a seam. Why didn't they go to the top?!? I've never done it. 5. Mainliner 5.13c? many bolts, bolt anchor I have never done this, it's unrepeated as of fall 1997. Jean Delataillade put it up a couple years ago. Supposed to be excellent. 6. Mean Leaner 5.13a/b or A2+ 3 fixed pins, anchor? The seam that splits the entire tower. Very difficult. Done only with preplaced gear thus far. FA by Luke Laeser in 1995. Also can be done as difficult A2, on almost all clean gear. (take a couple knifeblades) 7. ? 5.12a 6 bolts, tree anchor The slab just right of the leaning tower. A fun route with a couple tricky moves on it, and no good anchor. Weird hangers, too - double links of chain. Gah!