Gallow's Edge: Miniguide

Theo Takeda enjoys "TTMSR" V1 (Bad Landing Boulder)

The Gallow's Edge features pleasant southern exposure, moderate sport and traditional routes, and fun moderate bouldering. What more could you ask for? There are sport and traditional routes from 5.4 to 5.9 (with one, out of place 5.12), boulder problems from 5.6 up to V3, and the nearby Pit crag offers some more difficult toprope problems.

History: The crag was discovered by Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons, among others, and remained almost totally undeveloped until very recently. Most first ascents were done solo.

Directions: Park in the same place you would for the Playground, Old New Place, etc (719 and 721 Rover are good addresses to look for). Follow a concrete path east to a swinging gate, then continue slightly left (northeast) and walk to the canyon rim (100 yards). To your left should be a tall, clean basalt crag with no bolts -this is the Old New Place. Look for a small dead bush and a little tree just below the canyon rim, then turn right and hike straight down the pile of loose rocks (east), following a faint trail. Continue on this trail as it heads rightwards (southeast) and around a basalt ridge. Scramble down some slick, water-polished basalt with 2 large, annoying trees, and turn to your left. You should be at the Gallow's Edge. Total approach time should be no more than 5-10 minutes.

To see a street map of White Rock, showing where to park, click here.

This guide is also available in hardcopy form at both the Los Alamos YMCA and the DOME mountain shop, for free.

Please note that the top of the cliff is EXTREMELY loose and dangerous. DO NOT attempt to set up topropes here when there are other climbers below. In general, it is best to lead all of the climbs, though a few on the left side of the crag can be toproped with gear or long runners.

Gallow's Edge: Routes

listed from left to right
Recommended climbs are shown in orange

*** 1. Butler Route 5.5 no bolts, anchor with gear (or traverse to #2 anchors)
The leftmost route at the crag. Climb cracks up a ramp. Probably one of the best beginner traditional routes in White Rock, with solid pro and fun moves. A little loose at the top. 40 feet. Can be set up as a toprope with gear, might get a bolted anchor in the future.

** 2. Planet of the Apes 5.8+ 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
The furthest left sport route, which climbs a 40-foot face just right of a jagged arete (the arete is on route). Can be set up as a toprope with gear.

* 3. Unknown 5.7 no bolts, anchor with gear
Offwidth right of Planet of the Apes. 30 feet.

** 4. Prince Humperdink 5.12a 3 bolts
The crag's hardest route. Powerful and thin, but short. Just around the corner from the Fire Swamp. Easier if you use the righthand arete. Bolted March '98, no anchor.

**** 5. The Fire Swamp 5.8- 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
The left side of the wide, low-angle face. Excellent. 40 feet.

** 6. Unknown 5.7+/5.8 3 bolts, #5 anchor
Climbs up just left of the bulge, then continues straight up on slightly steeper, but heavily featured rock to the top. Bolted March '98.

** 7. Princess Buttercup 5.6 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Face route in the middle of the large, slabby wall. A good first lead. 35 feet.

*** 8. 99 Red Balloons 5.8 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Just right of the grungy chimney. If arete is used, route is 5.8. If you avoid using the arete, it's a contrived 5.9-. Watch out for a loose flake near the 4th bolt - it won't seem to come out, but jiggles unnervingly.

** 9. Unknown 5.7 no bolts, anchor with gear
Lieback this offwidth crack just right of #8. Will have an anchor in the near future. 40 feet.

*** 10. Once Were Warriors 5.8- 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Face right of the of the offwidth crack. Enormous jugs. 40 feet.

** 11. Giant Killer 5.4 TR or solo only
Furthest right, short face. A fun solo, might be bolted in the future.

A few decent short solos can also be found to the left of the Butler route, though the rock is loose in spots.

As of the spring of 2001, two new routes exist on the small cliffband above the Gallow's Edge, which can be easily reached via a short scramble. They are:

*** 12. Unknown 5.9- 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
A blunt arete with fun moves and interesting position. Classic.

* 13. Unknown 5.7 3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor
Shorter, less well bolted, and generally less interesting than its neighbor. Watch for loose rock near the anchors.

Gallow's Edge: Bouldering

A. Traverse Boulder This is the boulder that sits directly behind "Prince Humperdink". It features several short, difficult problems, as well as an uncompleted traverse of the north face (V6?). Problems: ** #13 V1 From the leftmost portion of the west face, slap your way across the lip of the boulder and up. * #15 V1 Sit start the southwest prow of the boulder. Crunchy. * #16 V0 The south face. Hollow flakes, short, but fun. *** #12 V2 Sit start at the northeast corner of the boulder. Climb straight up, then traverse rightwards on the lip to the highest point and top out.

B. One Problem Boulder Sits 5' east of "Fire Swamp". The only problem on this boulder is on the northeast corner, a steep, crimpy, 2-move overhang (#14, V2, no stars)

C. Pocket Plethora Boulder A plethora of fine V0 (5.6 to 5.10, * to ***) boulder problems are all over this boulder. Eliminates could be done here too.

D. Bad Landing Boulder The obvious, overhung square boulder that sits 30 yards north of the crag. The best problem (though it has an extemely bad landing) is the *** "Theo Takeda Memorial Sped Route" (V1) up the overhung east face on large pockets . Other problems on the boulder have better landings, and are easier (V0, from 5.8 to 5.10). The easiest descent is on the north face.