Presta vs Schraeder
I picked Schraeder because slime can be easily put in the inner tubes. A presta tube need to cut and patched if you Slime it (or buy a preSlimed presta tube). And those nifty digital car tire pressure gauges also work with Schraeder. You can fit a presta tube into a Schrader rim (use a rubber grommet to reduce the valve hole size). but not the converse. Presta valve stems are easier to break off while hand pumping. All gas stations have Schrader inflators. If you need a bike tube on the way to a ride, Walmart, Kmart, Target, local hardware shop etc only stocks Schrader tubes.
Rims
I picked 32 hole Sun Rhynolite rims because they had really good reviews on mtbr.com, reputation for durablity, they are inexpensive and they were on sale. Actually, I've seen them on sale quite regularly at both airbomb.com and pricepoint.com. I got mine for $24. Rims come as Presta. Use a 11/32" drill to convert to Schrader. Note: Number of holes must match hub.
Disk Brakes vs V brakes
Disk brakes stop better in adverse conditions and have better modulation. They do not wear the rims, brakes still work if your wheels are out of true, pads last longer and are low maintenance. Four piston brakes do not chatter, two piston brakes might chatter during braking.
Brands I'd consider are Hope, Hayes, Shimano/Grimeca. Originally, I was all set to buy the Hopes 4 piston xc brakes but I found out that they are only compatible with Hope hubs due to spoke clearance. Someone has told me since that this is not true and adapters exist for most hubs. Anyways, I ended up selecting the Grimeca disks because they are much cheaper ($300 per set, front and back).
Hubs
I picked the Chris King Discotek hub set. Everyone raves about the CK hubs, durable & low maintenance & smooth. They need an adaptor plate ($25) to attach to the disk rotor. Sometimes on sale for 50% off. Note: Number of holes in hub must match the number of holes in the rim. Width of axle must match rear dropout width of frame. Usually this is 135mm. Double check!!
The nice thing about CK discotek hubs is that the same hub is compatible with many different braking systems, including v-brakes. Say if you decide to build with Avid Arch Rival 50's now but upgrade to disks later, the CK discotek hubs only need the proper disk adaptor.
Chris King Disc Rotor Adaptor part #'s for different disk braking systems
Disc Brake System Front Rear 135mm Amp PHB00111 PHB00408 Coda/Cannondale PHB00211 PHB00214 Hayes,Shimano,Grimeca,Avid,RST,Formula ISO PHB00413 PHB00412 Hope PHB00313 PHB00311 Magura Gustav PHB00408 PHB00411 Magura Louise PHB00411 PHB00411 Rock Shox PHB00111 PHB00408 Sachs PHB00411 PHB00411
Quick release skewers
Chris King states only steel skewers be used with the Discotek hubs. I picked a set of WTB steel skewers because they got good reviews, they were on sale for 1/2 price and coincidently I picked WTB tires.
Installation
Unscrew nut, remove one spring. Slip skewer through hub, the lever is on the non drive side. Slip spring (wide end out) on skewer, fasten nut. Check tightness. Hacksaw off excess skewer if protruding from nut.
Spokes
Double butted spokes are recommended by Sheldon Brown, internet wheel guy. Check out his site. I used DT Swiss double butted 14/15 ga. spokes. Black annodized costs double!! Good source for spokes is coloradocyclist.com.
For the SUN Rhynolite/CK Discotek combo, spoke lengths are 265 mm disk side, 266mm drive side for front wheel. Same lengths on back wheel but 266 mm disk side, 265mm drive side for front wheel.
Using an online spoke calculator
Before you use the online spoke calculator, you need to know a few key measurements describing your wheel geometry.
Firstly, the effective rim diameter (ERD) for your rims. This measurement is slightly less then the actual rim diameter and may be found on the manufacturer's website.
Secondly, the flange diameter and center to flange distance for the hub. This can be found in your installation guide.
front rear Sun rhynolite 559mm actual rim diameter Effective rim diameter 548 mm Effective rim diameter 548 mm Left flange diameter, Chris King Discotek hub 135mm axle 53mm 53mm Left center to flange, Chris King Discotek hub 23mm 34mm Right flange diameter,Chris King Discotek hub 53mm 53mm Right center to flange,Chris King Discotek hub 31.5mm 21mm crosses 3 3 number of spokes (number of holes in rim and hub) 32 32 spoke length left side 265 266 spoke length right side 266 265 For Dan Halem's online spoke calculator, go here
Spoke nipples
The white brass nipples come with the DT spokes. Spline drive nipples are aluminum alloy and come with a special non slip spoke wrench. The advantage of spline drive nipples are that they are non slip, stronger than regular nipples, and come in assorted colors. Check out the manufacturer site for special deals.
Rim Tape
Use fiberglass reinforced packing tape. Available at Office Max or Office Depot for about $4 for a lifetime supply.
Truing Stand
The stand is used to straighten the wheel. Checkout Zinn for proper usage. I found this to be a really useful tool. The Performance spin doctor/Minura stand is a good value and is often on sale.
T alignment gauge
This really expensive item is not needed as you can use a trued wheel to calibrate the truing stand. It may be included with the truing stand. If not, save yourself some money and pass on this.
Dishing gauge
This is also not necessary as you can use the truing stand as a dishing gauge by flipping the wheel over.
Floor Pump
Silica Super Pista, oak handle, high volume. Brass chuck for presta/schaeder. Schaeder attachment is very poor.
Pressure gauge
One of those digital gauges for less than $15 at any auto parts shop.
Spoke prep
Use marine bearing grease.
Nipple driver
File flat two opposing ribs off a #2 phillips screwdriver hex bit tip.
I assuming you have Zinn's chapter on wheelbuilding and read Sheldon Brown's article on wheelbuilding. So I'm not going repeat that here. I'm building a 32 hole disk brake front wheel, let's do it!
Tip: Fold a beach towel under your chair to catch any spoke nipples that fall. Otherwise, those nipples will likely fall into the next dimension, never to be found again.
Rim prep for schraeder valve
Use 5/16" drill and drill out presta valve hole. Use slow speed and stop if drill bit binds. If drill bit binds, extract drill bit and repeat until through. Switch to 11/32" drill bit and repeat.
Lacing
Because of the disk brakes in the front, I use a 3x pattern. The 3 x pattern given by Zinn is NOT correct for disk brakes because the tensioned spokes are slowing the wheel down, not speeding the wheel up. Zinn's instructions work great for a v brake bike.
Rules to remember:
Spokes under tension have elbows out.
For a disk brake wheel, this means the spokes should be pulled towards the center of the hub during braking to prevent spokes contacting the brake caliper. Spokes with elbows in under compression will bow towards center of the hub as well. This is what you want the spokes to do during braking.
3x lacing means over two and under one. This much less confusing then trying to build a 32 hole rim using hole counting instructions for a 36 hole rim.
I ended up lacing the elbows out first then rotating the wheel in the direction of travel while holding the hub stationary. This ensured all spokes were in tension as if I was applying a braking force to the hub. Then laced the inside elbows and wormed the rest of the spokes through. Having done this, and initially Zinn's method for a non disk wheel. It sure is easier doing the inside elbows first.
Lacing instructions for doing the inside elbows first
As per Zinn, separate your spokes into four sets and lube. Orient rim and hub as per Zinn.
Tip: screw enough of the spoke nipple in to barely engage the threads. This gives you maximum working room.
First set of spokes:
First inside spoke on right side is 3 holes clockwise of the valve hole. Lace rest of spokes every fourth hole.
Second set of spokes:
Flip wheel. First inside spoke on left side is 4 holes clockwise to the valve hole. Lace rest of spokes every fourth hole.
Tip: When done with second set hold hub and turn wheel in direction of rotation. All spokes should be evenly tensioned. If one side is not under tension, check to see if the spokes are in the correct holes. Otherwise, there will be no end to problems trying to get the last two sets of spokes to fit. I obviously done this mistake before!!!
Third & fourth set of spokes: use the over two and under one rule to finish up.
Tip: Use your homemade nippler driver tip and a electric screwdriver to drive the spoke nipples flush with the rim from the inside. Then use the spoke wrench to true.
The 3X lacing pattern from Zinn is correct for the drive side. The disk side should be laced like the front wheel.
First set of spokes:
Second set of spokes:
Third & fourth set of spokes: use the over two and under one rule to finish up.
Dishing a wheel using a Spin Doctor truing stand
True wheel laterally and for roundness first. When wheel is roughly true...
If center alignment plate is calibrated,
if rim is offset left, tighten spokes on left side 1/4 turn & loosen spokes on right 1/4 turn to pull right
if rim is offset right, tighten spokes on right side 1/4 turn & loosen spokes on left 1/4 turn to pull left
If center alignment plate is NOT calibrated,
Align left and right feeler to edge of rim. Flip wheel over.
if rim has gap between right feeler,tighten spokes on left side 1/4 turn & loosen spokes on right 1/4 turn to pull right
if rim has gap between left feeler,tighten spokes on right side 1/4 turn & loosen spokes on left 1/4 turn to pull left
reduce gap by 1/2 and flip wheel over repeat.
Tip: once wheel is dished, you can use the true wheel to calibrate the alignment plate.