Crankset and Pedals
Crankset
Crankarms come in two styles, square tapered and splined, and must match the bottom bracket spindle shape. It is widely believed that the splined spindle is better than the square tapered design. It seems to me that we are in a transition period from square taper to splined spindles. The splined spindle is found on the newer 2000 Shimano XT cranksets, the XTR cranksets and the 2000 Truvaliv cranksets. Unfortunately, the XTR crankset is available in the standard drive only and non Shimano "XTR caliber" compact cranksets are still only available in the square taper style.
The Raceface LP turbine seems to be the overwhelming favorite. Lots of colors available but reviews suggests the annodized colors to be more durable, $10 cheaper too. The Isis frame needs to have a compact drive (94/58mm). I got the 44/32/22 chain rings with the 175mm crank arm length. Make sure you get the chainrings with the bolt pattern (compact, 94/58mm) to match your crank arm. There are 9spd rings as well as 8spd rings. Note:Raceface rings do not come with chainring bolts or crank arm bolts, be sure to get these on your order!
Tip: Negative reviews for these cranks arise from stripped threads in the spyders during installation. Be sure to use antiseize and your torque wrench during installation.
Crankarm bolt caps
Crankarm bolt threaded dust caps are available to protect the crankarm pulling threads. Lightly tighten down to contact the crankarm bolt, this will prevent the crankarm bolt from backing out and may prevent crank arm creep. Unscrew and check regularly for moisture or rust forming on the crank bolt head.
Tip: Put a dollop of waterproof bearing grease behind the dust cap. Then if you need any grease for a roadside repair, scoop some out with an allen key.
Advanced topic: Crank arm creep
The following from GammaDriver ...
There's actually possibly more to crank bolt dust caps [snip]... John Barnett (writer of Barnett's Bicycle Manual (a publication a lot of bike shops use - it retails for like $150)) kind of thinks that the metal threaded ones, when tightened (lightly) down all the way until the inside of it hits the crank-arm bolt, may actually help prevent crank creep. Crank creep is the propensity of the crank arm - especially the non-drive side crank arm - to creep up (I know, you would think it would try to creep OFF, but...) the BB spindle. The little bit of creep that does occur can lead to loose crank arms later via enlargening the square-taper of the crank arm. You may or may have not experienced this, but on a new set of cranks on a new BB you find, a lot of times, that after a few rides with a properly torqued non-drive side crank arm the bolt, when you check it, seems loose. It's loose because the crank arm crept up the BB spindle, not because the bolt came loose (but the bolt is, of course, now looser than it was since the crank moved away from it). The problem is that a lot of people 'chase' the crank arm up the spindle by retightening it. This is a really bad idea, especially if done more than once after a new installation. Thus, the stronger aluminum dest caps, the ones that thread in to the crank arms, may give the little bit of pressure needed (against the crank-arm bolt) to prevent crank arms from creeping up the interface.
Installing the chainrings with steel chainring bolts
Raceface 9 speed chainrings come with no instructions. Lay out the three rings on a flat surface, smooth side facing up. Note the orientation of the hole reinforcement of the smallest ring should be the same as the two larger rings.
Pick up the largest ring and the crankarm with the spyder ( drive side crank arm ). The smooth side with the CANADA imprint faces forward. Align the pin that is protruding out with crank arm. I believe the function of the pin is to keep the chain from jamming between the chainring and the crankarm if the chain ever slips off. The holes in the spyder will align behind the outer chainring.
The middle chainring comes next. The smooth side faces forward and is oriented the same way as the outer chainring. The spyder is sandwiched between the two chainrings. Coat the threads of the steel chain ring bolts with blue loctite. Finger tighten each bolt until it is snug but not tight. Continue for all five bolts, using an X pattern. Torque each bolt to xx ft-lbs using an X pattern. Finally torque to xx ft-lbs using an X pattern. Note: NEVER use blue loctite on ALLOY bolts
The smallest chainring (granny ring) is oriented the same way as the middle chainring. Thread the granny ring bolt through the ring and then the spacer. Apply antiseize to the thread and finger tighten into the spyder. Continue with the rest of the granny bolts, using a X pattern. Torque each bolt to xx ft-lbs using an X pattern. Finally torque to xx ft-lbs using an X pattern.
Tip: Tightening up the bolts evenly in an X pattern will prevent the chain rings from warping. Remember to use the torque wrench to prevent over torquing the bolts. The chainring alloy is susceptible to corrosion so wipe down with WD40 to remove fingerprint salts and then follow with a light Boeing shield lube.
Bottom bracket
The bottom bracket can be a potential problem area as many mtbr's lament. From what I understand, Ti bottom brackets are more flexible than steel and are prone to creaking. The reviews suggest Phil Wood stainless steel to be the best, so that is my pick. Note: The Phil Wood bottom brackets need a special tool (NOT the Shimano BB tool) for installation. Cost for the Phil Wood tool is comparable the Shimano bottom bracket tool.
The mounting rings are available in steel or alloy. Steel mounting rings are recommended for alumimum frames. The bottom bracket includes bottom bracket with patented cupped taper flats for crank arm retention, color coded mounting rings, thread locking compound, four stickers and installation instructions.
I installed using marine bearing grease instead of thread locking compound to permit future fiddling with the chainline, if necessary.
Note: The chainline is adjustable +/- 2.5 mm left or right. However, the crank must be removed to adjust the chainline.
Tip: Raceface recommends greasing the taper flats to prevent corrosion. Slather on that marine bearing grease, install cranksarms and wipe off excess grease.
Pedal
I haven't ridden clipless pedals before but the Time ATAC's have excellent mud clearance, very low maintenance, lots of float for the knees, excellent reviews and is installed without a pedal wrench. (Only allen key socket required). Reviews indicate the thermoplastic model to be the best value.
Pedal installation
Apply antiseize to crankarm and pedal threads. Finger tighten pedals to avoid crossthreading. Insert 6mm allen socket into pedal bolt.
Tip: If the crankarms are not attached to the bottom bracket, rest crankarm on yellow pages phonebook and apply body weight to torque wrench.
Tip: Install pedals to crank arms before installing the chain rings. Then if your hand slips, you won't cut yourself. Remember to antiseize the threads and use the torque wrench (25 ft-lbs).
Time ATAC shoe cleat installation
Recreational riders, like moi, install star cleats on left shoe. Racers install star cleats on right shoe. Torque to 50in-lbs. To break in cleat, mtbr.com riders recommend clipping in and out at least ten times before your first ride. Cleats can be filed for easier release, check out speedgoat.com's ATAC cleats for photo and ordering information for doctored cleats. Users recommend using an utility knife to shave excess shoe sole where rubbing occurs.