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Whimsical Woodcarvings & Glittering Tinware from Oaxaca, Mexico

Text and Photos by Phil Saviano


Oaxaca woodcarvings are the best-selling Mexican folk art in the United States. Also known by the Spanish word "alebrijes," they are the ultimate collectible, prized for their originality and wild colors. Hand-carved, hand-painted, no two are exactly alike!

The colonial city of Oaxaca (pronounced wah-HAH-ka) is nestled in the Sierra Madre del Sur mountains, six hours by bus south-east of Mexico City. It is known for its year-round Spring climate, cobblestone streets and marvelous stone buildings and plazas.

In the nearby central valley, lives an indigenous population descended from the Mixtec and Zapotec Indians. Speaking 52 dialects of eight distinct languages, (in addition to Spanish) they are among the most inspired and talented craftspeople in all of Mexico. The variety and quality of Oaxacan woodcarvings, tin work, ceramics, baskets, leather and fiber products, and weavings and textiles, is amazing!

WOODCARVINGS

The artists who make these whimsical wooden figures live in three villages. The most picturesque and the closest to the city is called Arrazola. It lies in the shadow of Monte Alban, the ancient Zapotec holy city whose ruins overlook the valley from a nearby mountaintop. The other villages are San Martin Tilcajete and La Union Tejalapan, both about an hour's journey away from Oaxaca City.

The tradition of woodcarving goes back generations, but it is only in the past decade that the colorful figures have become popular with collectors worldwide. Manuel Jimenez from Arrazola, now over 80 years old, rich and famous in artistic circles, is usually credited with starting the international craze for these woodcarvings. Other famous craftsmen include Gerardo Ramirez, Epifanio Fuentes, Manuel Jimenez, Justo Xuana and Jacobo Angeles (pictured above, with his son Ricardo). What started with a few families has almost taken over the economy of these three towns. The dusty, rocky roads that used to lead into the towns have now been neatly paved. The prosperity from the carvings is a dramatic turnaround for these villages where 15 years ago, many people were struggling to make a living.

The carvings are made from the twisted branches of the copalillo tree, which grows on the hills around the valley. The wood has a sweet odor, and its resin has been burned in incense burners since ancient times. It is still an essential element at religious celebrations and such festivals as the Day of the Dead. Copal wood is easy to carve when it is green. Today, as in the past, the carvers do most of their whittling with machetes or pocket knives. Then, they leave the carving to dry in the sun. After three days, it becomes lightweight and sands to a smooth finish. Before painting, some carvers apply a sealer to the wood to protect it from insects; others recommend freezing the finished carving after purchase, to kill any eggs which may still be in the wood.

There are no limits to the creativity of these artists. Their inspiration comes from the farmyard animals that they all raise, from the fireworks and the brilliant colors of their fiestas, from wildflowers that grow in the desert, and sometimes from their wild dreams, too!

The contours of the carving, and the exuberant use of acrylic colors reflect each carver's personality, mood and fancy. The work is usually a family affair. Typically, the men wield the knives, and the women and children do the sanding and painting.

In both Arrazola and San Martin, there are dozens of woodcarving families. You can easily spend a day in each village, going house to house, and still not have time to see everyone.

A visit is always an adventure, and when you knock on a woodcarver's door, you never know what you will find! There may be a wall covered with wooden lizards, a table laden with flowered pigs, a towering wooden cactus, crawling with wooden bugs and blossoms, in the corner. Every piece, signed by the artist, is a unique and wonderful example of Oaxacan folk art!

In San Martin, there is a wonderful folk baroque church with a colonial period facade. Among the famous carvers living here are Margarito Melchor, whose most sought-after creations are cats--lions, fierce tigers, reclining jaguars and playful kittens. One of his cats is on the cover of the book about Oaxacan woodcarvers, "The Magic In The Trees." Another famous carver is Martin Melchor, who originated the carvings of creatures with animal heads, human bodies, riding colorful bicycles. He also makes wonderful half human-half animal fishermen, sitting in small chairs with twig backs. Francisco Sandoval, specializing in armadillos in various sizes and shapes, also lives in San Martin, as do the brothers Justo and Abad Xuana.

The best way to get to Arrazola is to take a shared taxi, called a "collectivo" from the street that runs on the left border of the Central de Abastos market. The cost is only 4 pesos each way, and the trip takes about 20 minutes. Once there, feel free to walk up and down the streets of the village. You'll soon be greeted by a little "muchacho" who will offer to show you around the village, providing the first stop is at his father's house! Look up the mountain at one side of town and you'll see the ruins at the top of Monte Alban. Walk to the other side of the village, and you'll see the beautiful Oaxacan valley stretching for miles of in the distance. Among the most famous carvers in Arrazola are Manuel Jimenez, Arsenio Morales, and Gerardo Ramirez.

In La Union, the carvings are more primitive in form and decoration. Many of the artists here still favor the old-style aniline dyes. These brilliant, almost florescent colors, tend to fade over time, but suit the primitive quality of the figures. These figures from La Union tend to have a forceful presence and personality. It is said that each one carries a little soul in him somewhere.

BRILLIANT TINWORK

The art of tinwork (hojalata) is one of Mexico's most colorful crafts. It's been used for generations to make such household items as lamps, canisters, tea kettles, cookie cutters, graters and molds. Because of its shiny surface, it was also used to make religious objects, including candlesticks, saints' crowns, angels' wings and daggers for the Madonna's heart.

In Oaxaca (and also in San Miguel de Allende), a huge number of new designs for contemporary and traditional tin products are keeping workshops busy. They are producing brightly painted mirror frames, angels, boxes, three dimensional tin soldiers, candlesticks and sconces. Perhaps the most popular items are Christmas tree ornaments, made in a myriad of shapes ranging from birds, cactus, armadillos, cats, chili peppers and angels.

The material is made by dipping thin sheets of iron into molten tin. This coats the sheets with an attractive, shiny surface that is resistant to corrosion. (If the plated surface is cut or scratched, however, exposing the iron underneath, it will begin to rust if wet.) Tin can be easily bent, crimped, cut and soldered to form intricate shapes. It has a brilliant appearance similar to silver, which is a large part of its appeal. Its other advantages are its lightness, strength and low cost.

In a recent interview for the publication Artes de Mexico, Victor Leyva, one of Oaxaca's most renowned tinsmiths, described the artistic process: "Engraving is done directly on the tin sheet by hammering, and the rest we do little by little using a burin or graver. We do everything by hand," he said.

'The first thing is scoring, which is to trace the mold onto a metal sheet. That's the beginning. Then we cut it out with scissors and give it the shape we want. After that, we do the engraving. Soldering is also tricky. We go step by step!

Then comes the painting. We use anilines; we have to mix and prepare the colors, and that is another problem because you have to get it just right. The paint is very delicate. If it's too cold or too hot, it doesn't turn out. The weather is what causes us most difficulties. When it rains, it is very hard for us.

The humidity makes the paint turn cloudy. If it rains, we turn on a small lamp, and that way adjust the temperature so the paint will remain clear. It takes longer that way. But if the weather's good, you can use the paint at room temperature. The brushes available where they sell paint are no good; they leave scratches. So we use our own hair to make the paintbrushes--very smooth, straight hair."

Arturo Sosa, another Oaxacan tinsmith, is known for his milagros and designs of sacred hearts. His son, Arturo Sosa, Jr., did the Virgin of Guadalupe pictured here. The father had this to say about the craft: "In the first place, a tinsmith should know how to draw, and have patience, curiosity and a little imagination. Part of my life goes into every job, because I give my all to my work. Sometimes I see my pieces and don't believe that I did them. I get my ideas at night, when I'm lying in bed. I dream things and then wake up and draw them. Some turn out nicely, and others people don't like, but I make a lot of designs!"

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