Ankara is about as European as Turkey gets. There are touches of the mystical east if you know where to look but the vast majority of the city is 20th century through and through. Ankara is a huge university town and you'll find the streets of Kizilay and the bars of Sakarya thronged with students for most of the year. Capital city status and the presence of language schools and the above mentioned universities has brought a sizeable ex pat community to Ankara and all this adds to the western feel of the place. All the wings of the military are based here and Saturday afternoon finds Genclik Park (fountains, funfair, boat rides) full of strolling conscripts in their various uniforms.

A lot of foreigners are here on business but tourism is beginning to have an impact on various aspects of the city. Ankara is a reasonably convenient place to base yourself if you want to travel Anatolia, Cappadocia or the Black Sea coast and a growing number of tour operators and related service industries are catering to tourists. There is accommodation here at all levels, with prices pegged below those of Istanbul or the south coast, and the new bus station (ASTI) is probably the most useful transport hub in Turkey with services to just about anywhere that's feasible (The Lebanon is only 16 hours away if you're feeling adventurous).