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Rail travel in India . . .

Rail travel in Malaysia  & Singapore

Rail travel in Thailand

Rail travel in Vietnam

Rail travel in Japan

India should be on every traveller's itinerary sooner or later.  Although this page briefly outlines the possibilities for overland travel to India, there are security problems affecting this route at the moment.  

However, whether you travel overland or fly, one of the best ways to see this huge and varied country is on the Indian railway system.  The network is the third  biggest in the world, after Russia and China, and travelling on it is an experience in itself.

It is possible, in principle, to travel from the UK to India overland.  There is only a small gap in the rail network between Kerman and Zahedan in Southern Iran where you will need to take a bus, as the railway is still under construction.  However, the Foreign Office currently advises against travel in Southern Iran towards the Pakistan border.  To check their latest advice, visit www.fco.gov.uk/travel/.  You will also need to obtain an independent traveller's visa for Iran, which can be difficult - contact the embassy for details of the latest visa situation.

If you are still interested in making the journey, you will first need to reach Istanbul.  see the London to Turkey page.  From Istanbul, a weekly train leaves on Wednesdays for Tehran in Iran.  The journey takes two nights, and the train has couchettes.  See the London to Iran page.

From Tehran, a daily overnight air-conditioned sleeper train leaves at 18:50 for Kerman arriving next morning at 09:50.  From Kerman, there is a daily bus to Zahedan, leaving at 20:00 and arriving at 04:00.

From Zahedan, the weekly 'Taftan Express' leaves every Monday at 10:00, arriving in Quetta (in Pakistan) at 15:35 the next day.  From Quetta, there are daily trains to Lahore, from where there is (was! - suspended December 2001) a twice weekly train (10:00 Mondays & Fridays) or daily taxis/buses to Amritsar in India.  There are regular trains from Amritsar to Delhi.

Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable

Train times and route maps for Indian Railways, are given in the famous Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable, published every two months and available for £9.50 from any high street branch of Thomas Cook, or online at http://www.thomascooktimetables.com/.  A worthwhile investment in addition to your IndRail pass!

(Above) London buses at St Pancras?  No - Bombay buses outside Victoria Terminus.

One of the best ways to see the country is with an 'IndRail pass'.  These are available in three classes - AC1, AC2, and 2nd class - for any time period from half a day to 90 days.

In the UK, you can buy IndRail passes from the UK IndRail pass agency, the excellent S D Enterprises in Wembley.  S D Enterprises are a long-established family firm, who know their subject and go out of their way to advise and help their clients.  If you can, visit them in person, as it is an experience in itself.  You may even get to see Dr Dandpani's video on how to visit India... 

Visit http://www.indiarail.co.uk/ for IndRail pass prices.

S D Enterprises can book you a complete itinerary by train before you leave, or you can use your pass flexibly, making reservations as you go.  However, be aware that many Indian long-distance trains get full weeks in advance, although there are special quotas for foreigners on certain trains.

Which class of pass?

The bewildering range of classes on Indian trains is explained (with photos) below.  There are actually 8 different classes, no less, but IndRail passes are available in just three types:  AC1, AC2 and 2nd class ('AC' stands for air-conditioned).

An 'AC1' IndRail pass allows you to travel in air-conditioned 1st class sleepers, AC executive chair cars, or cheaper accommodation where there is no AC1 available.  An 'AC2' IndRail pass allows you to travel in air-conditioned 2nd class sleepers, ordinary 1st class sleepers and air-conditioned chair cars.  A 2nd class pass only allows travel in sleeper class and unreserved 2nd class.

AC1 (first class air-conditioned) is most comfortable, but it's only found on the most important long-distance trains (and a handful of shorter distance ones), so an AC1 pass is not worth it unless you're sure you are going to use trains on which AC1 or Executive chair class is available.  In AC1, you'll be mixing with army officers and bank managers.

For most people, an AC2 pass is the best bet.  In AC2, you'll be travelling with the Indian middle classes.  On this type of pass you will be booked in an AC2 sleeper where available, unless you specifically ask for ordinary (non-air-con) 1st class.  Why might you want 1st class as opposed to AC2?  Well, it's true that AC2 cars are cleaner (as they are sealed for the air-conditioning and the dust doesn't get in as much), bedding is provided, and it is (obviously) cooler.  However, the windows are sealed, and usually grubby.  Ordinary 1st class is not as clean as AC2, but the windows open (although metal bars are there to prevent unwanted intruders) so you get a better view of the passing country, and can take photos.  Ordinary 1st class is becoming increasingly difficult to find, as it's slowly being phased out in favour of AC2.

Travelling in sleeper class is an experience, as it is the way the bulk of the Indian population travel.  However, a 2nd class pass (which allows travel in sleeper class as well as 2nd class seats) is probably only for the more adventurous (or extremely budget-conscious) passenger. 

Booking your pass

The SD Enterprises website, http://www.indiarail.co.uk/ gives the latest IndRail pass prices.  Call S D Enterprises to book on 020 8903 3411.

Train times

There are so many trains in India it's impossible to list them here.  The trains go almost everywhere.  Route maps and train times for India are given in the Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable (see above), or you can find Indian train times  online at the Indian Railways official website, http://www.indianrailways.com/om.  This is an amazing website, but a little bewildering for the first time user - in fact, it's a good training course for travelling in India..!  The following advice may be helpful when using their site:

• Remember that Bombay now appears as Mumbai, Madras as Chennai, and Calcutta as Kolkata.  Delhi is still Delhi, at least for the time being....  Forgive me if I stick to the English names.

• The main station in Delhi is New Delhi, so if you can't find 'Delhi' listed, try 'New Delhi'

• The main station for Calcutta is actually across the river in Howrah.  Sometimes it is shown as Calcutta Howrah, sometimes as just 'Howrah'.  Either way, Howrah = Calcutta.

• There are several stations in Bombay, but the biggest and arguably most central is Victoria Terminus, now renamed 'CST'.  So start your online enquiry by looking for trains from 'Mumbai CST'.  If you don't see any suitable trains, next try for trains from Bombay Central ('Mumbai BCT') then from Dadar or Majid stations.

• If you are going to Agra, the station you want is Agra Cantonment ('AGRA CANTT').

• The timetable response you get may appear to show a train running overnight, but make sure it isn't actually two or more nights.  The journey from Bombay to Calcutta or from Delhi to Madras is about 36 hours, i.e. typically two nights. On the other hand, travelling on a fast train, Bombay to Delhi or even Calcutta to Delhi takes just one night.

• Have a look at the information further down this page about the many different types of class available, and the section above about 'Which class of pass?'.  On a long-distance overnight train your best bet is probably 2nd class 2-tier air-conditioned (AC2 or '2A'), or (if you can afford it) 1st class air-con (AC1 or 1A).  On short distance daytime trains, air-conditioned chair car ('CC') is a very good bet where it is available.

• 'Rajdhani Express' trains are extra-fast air-conditioned long-distance trains linking Delhi with regional centres such as Bombay, Calcutta, etc.  These are good trains to take if you can.  Meals are included in the fare.  'Shatabdi Express' trains are fast air-conditioned daytime trains running on routes such as Delhi - Agra and Delhi - Jaipur with air-con chair class and executive air-con chair class.  Refreshments are included in the fare.  Again, good trains to take if you can. 

How to book

Reservations are now completely computerised - according to an Indian professor with whom I shared a compartment, computerisation  saved him 50% of his travel costs, as he had always had to pay the equivalent of the fare in bribes to get a reservation..!  Trains often get booked out way ahead (weeks or even months), so advance reservation is essential for any long-distance journey - You may see TV screens in the booking offices in major cities showing berth availability on the main trains from that city over the next few weeks.  Some trains have a special quota available for tourists, but you can't guarantee this, and even using this special quota you may have to wait several days before a berth is available to your chosen destination.

Indian Railways have a unique system:  After a train becomes fully booked, a set number of places in each class are sold as 'Reservation Against Cancellation' or 'RAC'.  After all RAC places have been allocated, further prospective passengers are waitlisted.  When passengers cancel, people on the RAC list are promoted to places on the train, and waitlisted passengers are promoted to RAC.  What a system..!

If you've booked an itinerary using an IndRail pass, your coach, seat or berth number will not be printed on your ticket.  However, reservation lists for each long-distance train are posted on the noticeboard at each station before departure.  Check to see that your name is listed, with your coach and berth number.  Reservation lists for each coach are also pasted on the coach side next to the entrance door.

Booking from the UK...

It is not possible to book Indian trains online with Indian Railways, so the choice is between booking with SD Enterprises (the UK IndRail agency) in Wembley, arranging tickets through a local Indian travel agency, or booking locally at the station when you reach India.  

If you will have limited time in India and cannot afford to take pot luck, it's a good idea to book your itinerary in advance from the UK, as Indian trains often become booked up way in advance.  Even for a 'one-off' train trip you might consider buying a half-day or one-day IndRail pass from the UK's IndRail agency, SD Enterprises.  They will make the necessary reservations for you to go with your pass.  See the IndRail pass section above.

Catering

There are no restaurant or buffet cars as such on Indian Railways, but on long distance trains an attendant may ask you if you would like to order food, and bring you some rice and curry in foil containers from the kitchen car.  It is not expensive.  On the premier 'Rajdhani Express' trains (linking Delhi with Bombay, Calcutta, etc,) and the premier daytime 'Shatabdi Express' trains (linking Delhi with Jaipur and Agra, etc.), food is included in the fare, served at your seat.

Classes of accommodation

There are no fewer than eight classes of accommodation on Indian trains, although only some of these classes will be available on any given train.  The different classes are described below:

Spacious and carpeted 4-berth and 2-berth compartments, with washbasin.  Bedding is provided.

Available only on the most important long-distance trains.

Air-conditioned 2-tier (AC2)

Comfortable open-plan sleepers, with upper and lower berths arranged in bays of four on one side of the aisle, and along the coach side above and below the windows on the other side of the aisle.  Bedding is provided.

Found on almost all long-distance trains worth their salt.

Non-air-conditioned coaches with lockable 4-berth and 2-berth compartments.  Bedding is not included in the fare, but may be available for a small extra charge if booked in advance.  1st class  accommodation is available on many trains, but it is slowly being phased out in favour of AC 2-tier.

Air-conditioned 3-tier (AC3)

This is almost identical to AC 2-tier, but as its name suggests, there are three tiers of bunks - Upper, middle and lower.  Bedding is not included in the fare, but is available for a small extra charge.  Found on many long-distance trains, but not as common as AC 2-tier.

Comfortable air-conditioned seating cars.  AC Chair Class is found on a number of 'intercity' daytime trains (e.g. Delhi-Jaipur, Delhi-Agra), and is available to holders of a AC2 class IndRail pass.

AC Executive Chair Class is only found on the most important 'Shatabdi Express' trains, for example Delhi to Agra.  It is only available to holders of an AC1 IndRail pass.

AC chair class

 AC Executive chair class

This is the way most of the Indian population travels long-distance, and the majority of cars on a long-distance train will be sleeper class.

Open plan sleepers with upper, middle and lower bunks arranged in bays of six on one side of the aisle, and along the coach wall on the other side of the aisle.  Bedding is not provided.

Found on almost all long-distance trains except for the premier 'Rajdhani Express' services.

Open plan cars with wooden seats.

Not recommended for long distance overnight  journeys, but quite acceptable for daytime journeys of up to a few hours.

I strongly recommend the Lonely Planet series of guidebooks, including the one on India.  I usually start planning a trip with the Thomas Cook Overseas Timetable plus the relevant Lonely Planet guide.  The Lonely Planets seem to be researched in much greater depth than most other guidebooks, and unlike many other books which seem to be tailored to one end of the market or the other, the Lonely Planets offer a complete range of suggestions for low-budget, mid-range and up-market travellers.

Buy online at Amazon.co.uk 

There are so many 'must sees' in India, it's very difficult to recommend any particular one.  However, a personal favourite is the ride to Darjeeling on the narrow gauge Darjeeling Himalaya Railway (DHR), and a night or two at the Windamere Hotel.

The DHR is now a UN World Heritage Site.  Take the broad gauge 'Darjeeling Mail' from Calcutta (Sealdah station) to New Jalpaiguri ('NJP'), leaving Calcutta Sealdah at 19:15 and arriving NJP at 08:15 next morning.  The 'Darjeeling Mail' conveys AC2, AC3, sleeper class and 2nd class accommodation. 

A DHR train connects with the Darjeeling Mail in NJP, leaving at 09:00 and arriving Darjeeling at 15:30.

Some guide books recommend taking the bus from NJP to Darjeeling (a 4 hour journey - much quicker than the 'toy train') and treating the railway as a theme park ride for a quick trip over a short section - Ignore them!  Four hours on a bus is cramped and uncomfortable, and hardly a world heritage experience.  The leisurely day spent on the toy train through the Himalayan foothills is a day well spent.  The 09:00  train from NJP is now diesel-hauled except for certain days when the diesel is being maintained, but other services are still hauled by steam locomotives.

Originally a boarding house for bachelor tea planters, it became a hotel in 1939.  Meals are served by white-gloved, turbanned waiters and eaten by candlelight to the sound of Cole Porter tunes on the piano.  Even if you can't afford it, make sure you come along for afternoon tea - probably the best cup of tea you will ever drink...

The hotel's phone number (from the UK) is 00 91 354 54041.