Cheap Top Fuel Pro Stock ZipZap Dragster ;)
"Under construction"
Intro:
Do you have one of those friends that keeps showing off his kool little Bit with a 38000rpm motor. Does he keep bragging about how much faster his car is than your slower ZipZap. Well here's your chance to silence him once and for all for less than the price he paid for his crappy little motor. This assembly can be installed and removed from your stock Zip in seconds with NO alterations to the stock Zip. and NO risk of damaging your car!!! Yes you heard me right, once removed your zip will be stock again....TO good to be true? Lets get to it!
The Parts:
Old Motorola Pager Motor..............??
3 LR44 1.5v batteries.....................$2.00 +S&H for a 10pack www.wholesaleforeveryone.com
2n2222a transistor.........................$0.44 +S&H www.mouser.com
100ohms resistor...........................$pennies
Background
I got tired of waiting for the Fast and the Furious Kits so I desided to make my own booster pack! The first step was to get a tough motor that would be able to withstand the stress of High Octane Boost. Heat and Pressures at this level of the game could quickly heat a stock engine RED hot and blow a hole through the center of your motor like a blowtorch. Well maybe not but you get the idea! :)
The perfect candidate was a Motorola Top Fuel Pro Stock Eliminator, Just by looking at this baby you immediately see its high quality. the motor has a bigger diameter than the Zip motor but of the same length. On the back it has the letters 5F and namiki in case you cared ;(
the motors
A much closer side view. The shaft is much longer on the Motorola Motor but that's ok, no need to cut it. The shaft is a little thicker so I enlarged the hole on the pinion gear with a pin of the same thickness.  
The Wiring Diagram
The idea here is to use the signal from the RC board that normaly powers the stock motor to trigger the transistor that will in turn control the Motorola motor. Simple?
So originaly the RC board sends about 1.3v to the motor, I measured the amps with a blue stock motor at about 13mA,  so to provide more or less the same load I used the 100ohm resistor. The RC board should never know that is not powering a motor anymore. When the signal is sent to the base pin of the transistor this closes the circuit between the emitter pin and the collector and 4.5v from 3 LR44 1.5v batteries flow to the Motorola motor. yup you heard right we want to squeeze every RPM from this motor. I assume that the motor will get fried sooner or later but this is not your daily driver this baby was meant to
"live life 20 feet at a time, Nothing else matters, for those 10 seconds or less it'll be free" so as long as you dont do any "granny shifting, and do your double clutching like you should, that hundred shot of NOS won't blow the welds on the intake" these are quotes from the movie F&F btw. and you thought I was full of shit. those guys crack me up!!! :)
Anyways looking at the circuit you can see that reverse will not work, reverse the polarity of the signal from the board and the transistor will not switch.
The Prototype
I threw the circuit together just to see if the idea worked, I snapped the ground (yellow) wire on the tab that connects to the back of the stock motor on the chassis and the positive wire (blue) on the tab that connects to the stock motor's casing.
A closer look, YES that's a wire tie holding the motor clip, I didn't bother cutting into the chassis, the motor sits just right up there, and all that is needed is to hold the motor clip, Later I will use a rubber band. I used powdered graphite to keep all the gears lubricated. the three LR44 cells were soldered together with a short wire between them.,
Side view, YOu can clearly see the Motor sitting higher than the stock, that's OK the distance between gears is perfect.
Another look, WELL by now you must be wondering DOES IT WORK??? Well I charged it up and a quick pull of the B&M Megashifter and BOY this thing is fast, Talk about spinning the tires...TOns of low end TORQUE and high end RPMs to launch you across the finish line in no time! talk about being  trick baby. The problem now becomes getting the power to the ground, The pros recommend a short burnout to clean the tires and put heat in the rubber before you get to the starting line. ;)
The beauty of this mod is that as easy as it is installed it can be removed just pull the wires from the tabs snap the stock motor and noone will ever suspect you are packing some serious heat! And remember never to say what you are running, anybody asks, as far as you are concerned you are running STOCK!! ;)
So, next time your friend comes around showing off his dual battery mod with 38000rpm motor all you have to do is slap this baby on and show him who is the king of the dragstrip. :)
The Future
Next thing to do is to conceal this Tripple stage Nitous system and Twin Turbo mod inside the stock body. should be easy enough once I rearrange the batteries, I will also try to make it a little neater as it is kind of messy right know.
I will also Post some numbers using the LapTimer.....
Cleaning up a bit
To make the battery pack less bulky the batteries were arranged in a triangle shape, Each were wrapped in tape individually. Pins were added to each wire to make the pack easily swapable, One can now make different packs, even rechargable ones, and swap with ease depending on the boost desired.
For the circuit I used a small piece of breadboard to hold the transistor and resistor. I used yellow as the negative wire, here we see that the battery plugs on the board and the board plugs on the car negative tab.(the one that connects to the back of the motor)
To avoid short circuits I used heat shrinking tube on the pins
A look at the back of the circuit, YOu can se the 4 rows of holes I'm using. The TOP being the transistor collector that plugs to motor (-) , SECOND the emitter what connects to the (-) on the battery and (-) on the car. THIRD the Base that connects to the Resistor, the resistor in soldered across THIRD and FOURTH so I'm using the LAST ROW to connect to the car (+)
Here's my original idea, but after adding the motor bracket there wasn't going to be enough room for the transistor,  A thing to notice is that on this transistor the casing is actually connected internally to the collector pin, touching the case to the motor bracket will close the circuit. DOWNLOAD the specs for the transistor you are using, search for the part number + pdf and you should find it.
(left) Showing polarity on the car and the way the circuit will be placed. Notice the tiny surface mount 100ohm resistor The little back square next to the yellow wire. The blue wire goes over the tab that makes contact with the motor casing. Yellow wire is pressed between the other tab and the outher wall.
(top) nitrous oxide solenoid ;)
I understimated how little space there actually is to play with, Here everything is tightly packed and ready to go. I had to sacrifice one motor bracked, removed the screw and bent the tab.
The moment of truth, The battery pack takes a little too much space and the cover will not close all the way. It needs like a 1/16th in. more. DamN!
NO PROBLEM, here's an idea on what to do with the extra wheel well clearance.
WILD IDEAS!!!
Don't try this at home unless you know what you are doing, the 9V battery PACKs a punch, and can supply a couple of AMPS of current so you'll have to be carefull not tu burn something.
In case you are wondering I didn't get any good results with this thing it's just for intimidation purposes, several errors on the design, the belt slips, the rig weights a ton. this is just to show than anything is possible!

Good luck and happy modding!
Comments?? please let me KNOW
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