38 Tooth Sprocket Mod

Click on images for large view.

The first thing I did was remove the chain guard and loosen the nuts holding the sprocket on the wheel.       

Then I got the bike off the ground and removed the rear wheel.         

I set the wheel on a bucket to work on it then removed the nuts and sprocket.         

This image just shows a size comparison of the old and new sprockets.    

I placed the new sprocket on the wheel and installed the nuts and torque them down to spec.         

Now you get down to it and start with the chain. I didn't have a chain breaker but a side grinder works well. It doesn't matter which link you grind off but I drew some lines pointing out what makes up a link.    

This picture didn't turn out well. I was trying to show that when you grind down the protruding ends of the link keep going a little so it doesn't hang when you try to separate the pieces.    

Now just use a screwdriver and a hammer and separate the link.         

I put the wheel back on and after taking a measurement I removed another male link for a total of 2 male links and 1 female links.         

This image shows what I removed from the chain. Two male links and the female link connecting them    

I used a master link I got from sprocket specialists to reconnect the chain. Just connect the two ends of the chain with the new link and squeeze the plate until the grooves are visible. Then place the clip in position and use a hammer to gently set the clip in the locked position.         

Now you just have to adjust the chain tension, replace the chain guard and lube the chain and you are ready to go.    

I ordered two master links with my new sprocket. I put the second master link in the bikes tool bag for emergency use.

Here are the torque values:

• Rear axle nut: 69 ft pounds

• Rear sprocket nuts: 65 ft pounds

Email shadowrider2001@hotmail.com with any questions.