Glossary

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Abrasion is the stretching and wearing away of cliffs, coasts and riverbeds by pebbles, gravel and other material.

Arch is a passage in a headland caused by erosion.    

Attrition is the breaking down of rocks as they rub against each other while being transported. 

Backwash is the water moving down the beach towards the sea after the swash.

Barrier beach is a series of low islands, parallel to the coastline that are usually formed by the elongation of a spit.  These normally consist of sand and/or coral. 

Click here to enlarge:barrier beach

Bar/bay mouth bar is the extension of a spit across the mouth of a bay linking two headlands. 

Barrier island is one of the islands forming a barrier beach.

Bay is the curved inlet between two headlands.

Bay bar see ‘barrier beach’.

Beach is the accumulation of deposited material found between high and low watermark.

Beach nourishment is the artificial input of beach material (sand and other deposits) to compensate for beach erosion.

Beach profile is the cross-section of a beach showing its gradient.  

Click here to enlarge:beach profile

Berm is a horizontal ridge of sediment found at the back of a beach.  It indicates the high water mark.

Blowhole is a vertical hollow linking the top of a headland to a cave.  Waves force air into the crack, causing high pressures.  This weakens the rock and forms a hollow from where water escapes.

Breakwater is a man made structure used to reduce the energy of the waves thus protecting the beach.

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