A city that has filled history books for centuries and imaginations for millennia, but what of the city today? You've chosen to visit Istanbul and are curious what the modern metropolis has to offer.
Visas
Arrival
Accommodation
Things to see
Further out
Shopping
Eating
Nightlife
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Visas are purchased on arrival in Istanbul and are payable in the country of your origin so keep a few notes handy. I believe Germans enter free, Americans pay $45 and English pay 10 pounds. A noticeboard above the visa desk displays the prices. The visa is multiple entry and is normally valid for three months. On paying the fee you'll receive a small sticker in your passport which should be shown to the customs officer and stamped.
Most people will arrive via the airport. It is a recently built, large airport with all the amenities you would expect. Outside Arrivals you'll find a Havas bus. This provides transport to Taksim and visitors to the Old Town can jump off at Aksaray and catch a taxi or metro to Sultanahmet.
If you arrival late then you'll have to catch a cab. Airport taxi drivers are notorious thieves. They'll use every trick so be wary. If you make sure he switches on the meter, and check it reads "GECE" for night or "GUNDUZ" for day, you should be all right. A cab to Sultanahmet should cost, at the time of writing, about 10'000'000TL (about 7-8$) for a daytime run. If you feel he has been cheating you, question him or see the hotel manager when you arrive. Drivers can lose their licence for stealing from tourists so he probably won't want to kick up a fuss.
Another alternative is to take a cab to Yesilkoy or Yesilyurt train station. From here you can take a train to either Sirkeci or Cankurturan (for the old town). A jeton for the trip currently costs 550'000TL (about 0.50$).
If you have pre-booked with a hotel, they may provide transport for you for free or at a cost.
There are many hotels in Istanbul and they cater for all. If you are visiting for business, and have a healthy account you'll probably stay in one of the larger chains. As a tourist, you are maybe looking for something a little more idiosyncratic, something which in itself will enhance the cultural experience at hand.
The Old City offers, in my mind, the best of all Istanbul's faces. You may feel the urge to avoid it, maybe you have heard horror stories about touts and carpet shops, but Sultanahmet probably represents the image of Istanbul we have in our minds most accurately. There is indeed something for everyone, be it a hostel or a starred hotel.
At the top end is the Four Seasons or the Mavi Ev. Both offer luxury and proximity to the heart of Istanbul ancient centre. Going down the scale, you have many charming, but not over-priced hotels and guest house: the Empress Zoe built onto an old Ottoman bath or the Alp Guesthouse with views of the sea of Mamara. Many of these establishments offer reasonable accommodation mixed with convenience and mostly, good view points, if not from the room itself, then from a rooftop terrace. The area below the Hippodrome (Akbiyik and Adliye Sokaks) has a number of cheap hotels all well-located, reasonably clean and with rooftop terraces either facing the sea, the Blue Mosque or both. If your budget is a dominating factor in your choice, you can find extremely cheap accommodation at the Orient Hostel or another hostel beside the Aya Sofia.
Taksim offers more accommodation. The modern centre, as it is known, is the heart of Istanbul nightlife. Bars, clubs and restaurant fill the little side roads off of Istklal Caddesi in an area known as Beyoglu. Taksim square itself boasts a few of the large hotels. Despite its reputation of being the modern centre, many of the building represent an older age when Istanbul was the centre of commerce for the region.
The Old City offers much for those who wish to get to grips with Istanbul's past. The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii), Aya Sofia, the Topkapi Palace are all wonderful and shouldn't be missed. A little further out from here, you can find the mosque commissioned by Suleyman the Magnificent and its surrounding buildings, design by the famous Sinan, the Ottomans' most renowned architect. Although less remains of the normal dwelling places of the populous, the Post Office in Sirkeci isn't without charm as are the two stations, Sirkeci itself and Haydarpasa on the Asian side, terminae of the illustrious Orient Express.
The old town sports several other interesting relics of the past. The Yerebatan Sarayi is an underground cistern built during Roman times to supply the area with water and many of its columns were removed from the older Greek temples on the site of what is now the Topkapi Palace. The site of the old hippodrome site shows off the monuments from the spina (central reserve) around which races were once held: the Egyptian obelisk, the stump of the torch of Delphi and another obelisk, once covered with bronze and climbed by Jannaseries who wanted to prove their skills. In the back streets behind the Marmara end of the Hippodrome, the rear section of the stand is still visible amidst the houses (just).
The Ottomans built their palace at the tip of the peninsula, Topkapi Palace. These beautiful grounds and interesting exhibits are well worth a several hour trip. Get there early if possible and enjoy a few minutes peace before the coaches arrive. The Harem tour costs extra but is a must. The Byzantine's palace was situated on the slopes below the hippodrome on the Marmara side. Although little is left of the palace, a pleasant way to spend an afternoon is to walk around the peninsula from Eminonu (the port near the bridge) with its Yeni Camii (New mosque). The sea walls here are particularly well preserved, Greek inscriptions still visible in places, and some small remains can be seen of the old Byzantine Palace as well as the large stone base of the old lighthouse. The later palace, Dolmabahce, the site of Ataturk's death and the final palace of the Ottomans is a contrast to the tradition Topkapi. Its Baroque features and more modern style grounds show the trend of the later Sultans to look to the west. The Beylerbey Palace of the Asian side was the princes' palace. It can be toured and is worth the trip for those staying longer periods.
The large land walls are impressive, especially as you approach Istanbul from the airport for the first time. Walking them is a little difficult although far from impossible. Best to go with a friend as they do sometimes harbour thieves. The best section is the Marmara end. There you can see the Golden Gate through which many a procession was made in older times, and the seven towered castle built by the Ottomans and later used as a prison. These walls, which stood unbreached for hundreds of years, have been penetrated twice in recent times to allow road and track access but still front a formidable obstacle.
The column of Constantine, once topped with a statue, displace by a quake and later strapped up with the iron hoops which give it its Turkish name Cemberlitas ("stone with hoops") marks the turn off for the Grand Bazaar. This is reached by walking along Divan Yolu from the Hippodrome. Along the same road you can find the graveyard of some of the Ottoman sultans and officials, A tranquil experience, and the Water Pipe Gardens should you feel like trying a nargile or hubble bubble pipe (while someone tries to sell you a carpet of course).
Further out towards Lale and Aksaray you can see the surviving stretch of the aqueduct, still in very good condition after many years although car pollution is starting to eat away at it. The old town has many other mosques and churches, many converted to mosques after the Ottoman occupation of the city in 1453. The "little" Aya Sofia, the Kariye Camii, the Kalender Camii, and others offer varying attractions from pleasing architecture to renovated wall mosaics.
If you have more time on your hands in Istanbul then there are various pleasant trips you can make.
The Princes Islands are a group of island in the Sea of Marmara. Four of them are populated, the most heavily being Buyukada. These can be reached by ferry from the Eminonu port and also from Kadikoy on the Asian side. Cars are forbidden on the islands and you can travel around by horse and cart. Buyukada offers fish restaurant and a pleasing town although it can be heavily occupied by day trippers at the weekends in summer. Personally, I prefer Heybeliada, the second largest island. Walking around its steep streets give you a chance to view many older examples of housing. A short horse trip away from the town takes you into woodland and a most relaxing day can be spend on the edge of the island, overlooking the city. Take a picnic of cheese, bread and olives, bought fresh from the town, and get away from the taxis and hawkers for a day.
The Bosphorus is also extremely relaxing. Avoid the touted boat tours and hop on the official ferry which is large and cheaper. You can jump off at any stop and explore the Bosphorus villages. Ortakoy is a fairly upmarket area with a lovely mosque and delightful tea gardens. Emirgan too is a nice place to stop and have a cup of tea and borek (pastry) The park in Emirgan is popular in summer amongst Turkish families. Arnavautkoy has many lovely building along the cornich and Camlica is famous for its dairy products. If you really want to get away, stay on the ferry until the last stop, Kavaklikoy, a small fishing village at the top of the Bosphorus. From there you can walk up to an old Genoese castle through the back streets of the village and watch shipping passing into the straits. Can be busy at the weekend but you'll more or less have it to yourself during the week. The numerous fish restaurants in Kavaklikoy offer a good, if not particularly cheap, meal. Alternatively you can make a nice snack from fried mussels in fresh bread from on the bufes.
Another impressive site along the Bosphorus is the Rumeli Hisari. An Ottoman castle built at the time of the conquest of Istanbul.
Almost anything can be bought in Istanbul. The highlight of any trip must surely be a visit to the Grand Bazaar. Admittedly, the prices are probably the highest in Turkey but the experience is unmatched. Most shops cater for carpets, leather and ornaments. Whether you go there to buy or just to soak up the atmosphere it'll me a memorable experience. The labyrinth of alleys and passages can be lost in for hours. If you do buy from here, then remember to haggle hard. It's a nice place to view antique carpets, most salesmen won't mind sharing tea with you whilst showing you there wares.
The Cavalry Bazaar behind the Blue Mosque is a small alley marketing better quality (and higher priced) hand-crafted goods. There is another handicraft market a little way up Divan Yolu and one more on Istklal Cad. in Taksim. Carpet shops can be found all around the bazaars and the old town. If you have less money, a small kilim makes a nice momento and can be picked up for about 15-20$.
Nagiles (hubble-bubble pipes) can be purchased from the Grand Bazaar or any number of tourist shops in the old town. Don't forget to buy some tobacco and coals if you intend to use it.
Gold is cheap in Turkey but I suggest you avoid buying from the Grand Bazaar. In the alleys around the Bazaar you can find several cheaper establishments. Better still, travel to one of the outer suburbs of Istanbul, such as Bakirkoy, and buy from a regular shop for the lowest prices.
Leather is sold in the Bazaars too but again is sometimes overpriced. A quick train trip to Zentinburnu gives you access to many cheaper shops away from the tourist districts.
The Spice Bazaar is located near the Golden Horn and sells many spices, sweets and other food products. Running along and behind the Spice Bazaar is an outdoor market which sells flowers, seeds, spices and animals.
Walking along the Golden Horn away from the Bosphorus takes you to an area whose backstreets contain many woodworking shops. You can buy cabinets, serviette holds, salt and pepper shakers, mats etc for very reasonable prices.
The Sirkeci region near the station is a haven for electronic goods. The basement of Dogabank (of the main road running between the station and the post office) sells cheap walkmen, camcorders and so forth. A street nearby is full of camera shops. A few of the buildings contain second hand camera shops, so of which would probably class as antiques!
The market in Beyazit square, mostly on Saturday, is a good place to buy software and books. Cd's can be found for as little as 2'000'000 and there is a vast array of copied games, programs, mp3 and music CD's. This area also contains several booksellers where you can buy cheap English Course books such as Headway and cheap English learner readers.
Next to the Beyazit Mosque there is a flee market which sells mainly watches and mobile phones, but also a few stalls selling nik-naks - old coins, fob watches and other "relics".
A passageway in the flea market leads you to the Book Bazaar. Here you can find many books, mainly in Turkish, and also reproduction Ottoman manuscripts. It is also a peaceful courtyard to rest in after exiting the Grand Bazaar. A cafe here sells tea and toast (and Kokorec - intestines).
There are some good fashion shops in Istklal and also in Kadikoy on the Asian Side. Beyond Taksim is the big Akmerkez shopping centre where the stars shop and the prices reflex this. If you really want famous brands they can all be found here. Similarly, but less upmarket, are the malls of Carousel and Galleria, in Bakirkoy and easily reachable by train.
You'll never be short of places to eat in Turkey.
If you are peckish, you can buy a doner sandwich (yarim ekmek = half a loaf of bread), a cheese toastie, a sausage sandwich or an intestines sandwich from many bufes or street vendors. They are everywhere.
Et Lokanta's are general meat restaurants and serve a variety of kebabs and bread based products (lahmacun, pide = like a pizza). My favourite is Iskender Kebab, doner meat served on bread with yoghurt and hot butter...Most are unlicensed except in the tourist areas.
There are a few "ev urunlar" restaurants. General there are women cooking in the restaurant who make manti (ravioli) and Gozleme (pancakes). The best one of these is in one of the side streets off of Istiklal Cad in Taksim, recognisable buy the stuffed goat outside. It's popular with tourists and local alike. Another popular tourist place like this is Cennet in Divan Yolu where the waiters wear Turkish outfit and minstrels prowl the tables with uds and sases.
Most districts have a McDonalds, Burger King,
Pizza Hut etc if you don't want to try the local food but I strongly recommend
that you do.
Fish restaurants can be found flourishing along the Bosphorus and also in Kumkapi although the latter is a little over-priced. There are some reasonable fish restaurants in Yesilkoy, reachable by train.
Most the large hotels have restaurants but it tends to be a little pricey and the food is better in the local lokantas.
There are several Meyhanes around the city. The ones in the Cicek Pasaji in Istiklal Cad. are popular but touristic. They generally serve fish although sometimes it's nicer to stuff up on the meze (starters) of which there is a vast selection. There are others in Yesilkoy near the marina.
You'll see restaurants everywhere in Istanbul, you'll never be short of option whatever your budget. If you have a little more spare cash you can find some places with great views of the sites or the sea.
Again, cafes are everywhere and are normally cheap. They mostly serve toast or hamburgers along with tea, coffee or nescafe. Some of the seaside cafes are pleasant in summer.
Most of this goes on around Taksim. There are numerous bars catering for different tastes.
The James Joyce Irish Bar and the North Shields are expensive at around 3-4'000'000 a beer. The James Joyce has live Irish music and the North Shields often shows live football. They are popular with tourists, expats and locals. Mojo has loud music and dancing but is in the same price bracket.
The side streets of Beyoglu have many cheap bars. Most are spit and sawdust but the atmosphere is lively and the beer cheap (around 1'500'000TL for a large beer). The Guitar Bar has live rock and draws a younger crowd.
Beware of touts who try to draw you to their bar. These are mostly silly priced "brothels". Ukranian girls dance waiting to be picked up buy customers. Beers at about 15'000'000 and a "champagne for the ladies, sir?" AVOID!!!
Sultanahmet has fewer bars but most hotels have a rooftop terrace. This is more a place to sit and relax over a raki rather than to live it up. Very soothing after a days exploring. Fresh breezes, good views and a peaceful night. I strongly recommend somewhere with a view of the Blue Mosque at night. Truly spectacular. For backpackers, the Orient hostel's bar is a good place to link up with others.
This is only a brief guide to Istanbul. Most of the fun is finding your own way round but I'm willing to answer any questions you have to the best of my knowledge. I'm still discovering the city myself. Have fun!
To add or recommend something to this page mail me: md2000md16@hotmail.com