FELT FROM THE HEART

TUNISIA

American Co-operative School Tunis

Contact Mira Modly

 

 

“Tunisia is the northernmost country of Africa…Facing east with a mostly low Mediterranean coast scalloped by the three large gulfs of Tunis, Hammamet and Gabes, it backs on the west onto Algeria and the Atlas Mountains…The average east-west width is 150 miles…Along the north coast runs the panhandle of a rugged mountain chain, from the forests of oak-cork and pine to the twin lakes of Bizerta and Ichkeul… 

VIEW FROM ICHKEUL NATIONAL PARK

 

…From the well-watered Mediterranean north, Tunisia then sinks, unevenly, towards the Sahara.  In the centre steppe region, rich only in Roman remains, interrupted in the west by Jebel Chambi the country’s highest peak) and merging in the east with the unbroken miles of olive-groves…There is a scattering of islands round the 810-mile coast, some little known and uninhabited…The Tunisian Sahara starts with the chotts…salt flats and ends at the Saharan frontier-post of Borj el-Hattaba which lies 500 miles due south of Bizerta, at the point of a long desert prong.”  [Taken from Michael Tomkinson’s Tunisia, 1985/88]

 

 

Arriving from the wintry heat of Marrakech I was somewhat shocked to land in stormy wet weather that, I soon learnt, had been the norm for the past month.  Not a usual February for Tunisia but at least the water reservoirs would last for another 5 years!  I was immediately welcomed by the Tunisian family whom I would leave as good friends after almost 5 weeks!

 

I was unable to begin straight away with the school, which gave me time to begin a crazy search for wool, as well as learn a little about my new surroundings!

 

CARTHAGE

 

“Archaeological excavations have revealed that humans lived along the Tunisian coast during the late Stone Age (8000-3500 B.C.).  Hunters and fishermen, these peoples made stone blades and tools, and evidence suggests that they also raised cattle and cultivated crops.  South of the mountains, the regions that are now desert, once received plenty of water and supported herds of animals.  A culture of hunters and herders flourished until about 2000 B.C. when the savanna began to dry up…

…The land that is now Tunisia first appears in written historical records around 1200 B.C., when Phoenician traders first landed on the north-eastern coast…The greatest of the Phoenician colonies was Carthage – or Qart Hadasht, meaning ‘new town’ – founded in 814 B.C. , and in time, gaining supremacy over all of the Phoenician colonies…Eventually, the Romans would learn both engineering and naval warfare from the Carthaginians.”  [Taken from Tunisia…in pictures, Lerner Publications Co. 1992]

 

    

                 ARCHWAY AT CARTHAGE                                          SIDI BOU SAID

 

“Unlike the box shaped houses that many Tunisians occupy, mosques, public buildings, shrines and the homes of wealthy Tunisians often display the finer details of Arabic architecture…Domes, arches and minarets (towers).  Buildings that date from the period of Islamic rule frequently use elements of both Roman and Arabic styles.”  [Tunisia…in Pictures]

SIDI BOU SAID – Looking out to sea!

The picturesque village of Sidi Bou Said is a short bus or train journey from Tunis and yet a huge contrast from the bustling capital!  Situated on a rock above the sea and keeping its traditional houses beautifully painted with white, blue and sometimes green, it really is a refuge from the rest of life, even with the other hundreds of tourists wandering around as well!!

 

 

“The dreamy white houses with their blue doors and windows look different but all confirm to the same style.  You can see the arabesques in wrought iron and the balcony woodwork in Machrabia style.”  [Taken from Charms of Tunisia, Mohsen Ben Ameur, 1987]

 

THE PROJECT

Fortunately, I had brought a bag of wool with me from Morocco so we could start the project off with this while my wool dilemma continued!

 

 

It was a different experience to work with the international children that this school provides for.  Only working with one Tunisian student out of the 10 in the class.  Still this adds to the variety that the project has seen already!  We began with the ever-successful felt ball, which always gives a good introduction, even if it makes a mess when the bouncing is tried before it is dry!!

 

The biggest problem facing me was trying to find the wool needed for the project.  There were sheep on any patch of greenery and several tied up awaiting the feast of ‘Ayid’.  However it was the wrong time of year to look for freshly carded wool.  I tried the ‘Souq de la laine’ (market of the wool) but found only carpets and bemused people wondering why I’d want the ‘real’ stuff?  A series of journey’s in and out of the centre of town, eventually, with someone who spoke French and Arabic still only brought a discovery of the whole sheep or spun wool for sale.

 

I had to succumb to using the wool that was offered through friends who pulled the dry and dusty stuffing from their cushions!  While the school was closed for 2 days I set too, borrowing beautiful old copper pans, and dyed this stuff into many shades!  Luckily the project was running over 2 days a week only, so I had plenty of time in between to hand card my way through enough for the next project as it was needed.  My ever-patient hosts also putting up with the coloured dust flying!!

 

CUTTING SHAPES!

Some of the most beautiful artistic work of Tunisia, and North Africa in general, are the fine mosaics of tiles.  I chose to work with ‘radial’ designs taken from mosaic patterns with this group.  Although I knew it would be a lot of work it was well suited for their age group (around 12-13 years).  I had some shapes prepared for them to cut out from but they also designed both their own shapes and decided how to put everything into a picture.  A circle of tape, helped keep within the circular perimeter!

 

After the shapes were cut out and placed in their design, 3 layers of wool were put on top.  The first gave additional colour and the second 2 made up the backing or substance of the felt.

 

It was the following week before they could get round to felting the pieces!  Adding soap and water they first rubbed over the wool to flatten it down before rolling it in order to make the felt compress even tighter.

 

PLACING THE DESIGN

 

ROLLING!

 

Having now acquired the basics of felting we had a discussion as to what was important for the picture of Tunisia.  Ideas were given of ‘Sidi Bou Said’, Roman ruins, the sea, desert and unusual houses or buildings, known as ‘troglodytes’ (I think!).

 

Flamingo, falcon and sea gull were put in for the birds and camel, sheep and cat were included for animals.  There were only 10 students fully working on the project so I think they did well to fit so much in!

 

DRAWING THE DIFFICULT TROGLODYTES.

 

Using books and magasines from the library we were able to put the ideas down as pictures on paper.

 

 

As we had so little time for this project to get squeezed in, even though another teacher helped me out with extra time for the students, I decided that the pre felts would be made by me.  I also knew that the wool was tricky, as it had been damaged through rough washing before I even began with it, so for ease all round I took on that job.  The only problem was guessing just what colours and quantities they’d need before I’d seen the pictures!!

Using their drawings, they cut out the designs from the pre felted colours.  Pins are always helpful at this stage even when they end up in fingers!

 

MAKING A TENT AND THE TROGLODYTES

 

MAKING A HOUSE FROM ‘SIDI BOU SAID’

 

 

I was very impressed with the way that the students began to use their new found medium to make the felt pictures closely resemble their drawings.  Spending a long time twisting small bits of wool to make the appropriate lines.

 

Once all the pieces were made in wool I had time then to ‘needle’ them together before the next class so that they would stay in place while felting. 

 

I also prepared books with photos of the background colours that might be typical for these different areas of Tunisia.

 

 

 SECTIONS OF THE FELT PLAN!

 

We had once again split into groups so that it would make it easier for working on the background design for the panel.  However, due to time shortage we were also making plans for the school project at the same time.  This is not something I’d want to do again as splitting attention is always difficult.  It was definitely made easier with the help of the art teacher, Mira Modly.

 

When laying the design, the border is always the easiest bit to work on first!

 

LAYING THE COLOURS FOR THE SEA

 

The prefelt images were laid down first, upside down, the colours then placed on top, covering the images.  Later even more wool would be put on top of that to make up the thickness of the panel.

 

LAYING THE COLOURS FOR ‘SIDI BOU SAID’

 

LAYING THE COLOURS FOR THE DESERT.

 

 

It was a long day to add the remaining two layers of coloured wool over the top of the background colour.  Some of this would show through into the main design so it is still important to think about what colours go where.

 

ALL LAYERS OF WOOL BEFORE FELTING!

 

It was a couple of days later that we began to felt the panel, first by rubbing over it with soap and water: -

 

 

Later by rolling it back and forth, adding pressure and trying to keep a steady rhythm.

 

 

Another long night saw my desperate attempts to get such poor and damaged wool to bind together and be strong enough for the presentation we had for the next day!  Some of the wool just would NOT felt at all but it has inspired me to think about quilting techniques to help keep it strong enough over the next few years?!

 

THE NEXT DAY AT THE PRESENTATION!

 

 

The work they did paid off, as it does look good!

 

 

Also at the presentation was the collaboration piece for the school, partly my present as well as theirs.  We had a vote on what was the best image they wanted to represent Tunisia and as a gift to leave in the school.

 

A camel head was chosen with flags, palm trees and writing to go around it.

 

This project they had worked on at the same time as the panel, partly because of a shortage of time and partly as I really wanted time to go and visit the desert!

PREPARING THE SURROUND!

 

The images of flags, palm trees and letters were cut out from the rest of the pre felt colours and placed face up on a background of sand-coloured wool.

 

 

Using my 3D techniques I created the camels head to sit in the centre of this surround.

 

 

FELTING THE SURROUND.

      

                            CLOSE UP                                CAMEL  AND RADIAL TILE DESIGNS!

 

 

 

 

 

DESERT ADVENTURES

 

ROUNDABOUT IN DOUZ!

 

The day after the presentation and end of the project (for now) I took a 9 hour bus journey down to Douz in ‘The Great South’, as my last adventure over seas!  A long journey but blissful to be away from the city and back in a sleepy town on the edge of a vast stretch of nothing!

 

It was amazingly easy to organise an overnight stay in the desert and as this had been my only dream I was soon very happy!  I did not at first realise that I’d be travelling by camel, but sure why not!

 

 

A French couple also came out with me, which made it easier, not to be the only woman with four semi-nomadic men!

 

I can now see why usually the camels carry the goods and equipment and the people walk along side!  I cannot say that they are the most comfortable creatures to ride with big loping strides and very bony hips!

 

However, I was grinning all the way and fascinated by their feet, which seem to spread out as they hit the sand and give more support!  They also have the strangest habits for greeting one another where HUGE bubbles of spit and tongue come gurgling out the depths to end in quite an amazing display, as long as you’re not in the firing line!!

 

 

The desert left me feeling a great many emotions.  It is beautiful, once you’re away from the piles of accumulated rubbish at the highly-touristy beginning!  The wind was blowing a fine breeze of sand from the tops of the dragon-back dunes leaving an icing dust layer attached to everything I touched or ate for the next few days!  This forever shifting landscape of shape and colour also left me sad, as I know it didn’t use to be so barren.  As far as my eye could see and many miles beyond that was endless desert.  I cannot imagine trying to cross it, although the feeling of freedom and insignificance must be amazing!

 

 

The night brought good food, the classic ‘cous cous’, and later an Irish-Arabic music ensemble as I brought out my whistle to join their drums!  Songs and the clearest night of stars I’d seen for a long time made the experience special!

 

 

ALL that was left at the end of my stay was take another tradition home with me!  While back in Tunis on my last day I was taken to a woman who works with henna.  The designs are traditionally put on hands, arms and feet for weddings and other special occasions, and can last for up to 3 weeks!

 

One of the symbols of protection and good luck found in Tunisia is the ‘Hand of Fatima’, found on necklaces and doorknockers and imprinted into doorways often with an eye in the palm to ward off the ‘evil eye’!  Other intricacies reflect the curling patterns in these designs below.

 

 

 

THANK YOU’S

 

First to Ouarda Nicholson who set up the project in the school and with ‘my’ lovely family.

To Mira, Dorsaf, Dawn, Denise and the other staff at the school who made my stay as good as they could!

To Monia and Kate for supplying the only wool they, and I, had and helping whenever and wherever they could!

To the students, of course, who made it happen!

AND most of all

To Zina and Yassine and their extended family who welcomed a stranger and made ALL the difference to my stay in Tunis.

 

To contact me: -

 

alanafelt@yahoo.co.uk

 

To go to the main Felt From The Heart web site: -

 

http://www.oocities.org/alanafelt