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Shawn's Custom Interiors
    Most Toyota trucks and 4Runners come with a basic vinyl interior.  Though it is easy to clean, plastic and vinyl interiors are boring and don't have much style.  I decided to make my own "SR5" interior using about $150 worth of materials 
     Basically, all my Toyota truck and 4Runner custom interiors are done the same.  I start with pulling the stock bench or bucket seats.  Then I go to a salvage yard and find a nice comfortable set of bucket seats from another vehicle.  Bucket seats from years '79-'95 are compatible and bolt right in even through different body styles. Vehicles with stock bench seats already have the four extra holes near the transmission hump needed for bucket seats.  Models newer than '95 may be compatible too, but i haven't tried it yet.  The only problem with stock Toyota truck or 4Runner seats is they are impossible to find!  So, I decided not to limit myself to stock seats.  Granted, stock SR5 seven-way adjustable seats are comfy.  They just aren't available.  I search for seats from import cars, preferrably "sporty" cars.  It does not have to be a Toyota--just as long as the basic mounting syle is the same.  The front seat mounts should rest on a "ridge," and the back mounts should rest flat on the floor. The rear mounts do not have to be level with respect to one another as shims can be used to bring them to equal heights.  I have gotten seats from a 1992 Mazda 626, mid-80's Mazda 626, 1988 Toyota Corolla GTS, 1988 Corolla DX, 1987 Toyota Celica, 1988 Hyundai Excel, and a 1988 Honda Prelude.  There were some variations in seat adjustment options and headroom clearance, but all worked great for me.  Average seat price for me has been $30 per seat from local salvage yards.  Very cheap for sporty cloth seats!
     The next upgrade I make is carpet and cloth.  I order carpet by the yard from a local canvas and upholstery shop and use that for the floor and back wall (back wall in standard cab trucks only).   I buy automobile headliner material from a local fabric store for the door panels and any other interior panels I wish to cover.  The headliner material is applied with 3M's Super 77 spray adhesive.  It works very well on all vinyl and plastic surfaces in a truck except for vinyl headliners.  The high temps of the roof during summer will melt the glue. 
     Using the 3M spray adhesive with cloth headliner material takes some getting used to though.  Too much glue sprayed on the foam will cause it to melt together.  Actually, it doesn't really melt it, but the glue gets in the air pockets of the foam and causes them to collapse and stick together.  Too little glue and the foam won't stick well enough to the trim.  When pressing the headliner material on, use your full hand to distribute the force of pressing the two surfaces together . Both surfaces to be joined need to be sprayed with the glue.  Spray just enough on the cloth to coat it but not let the glue saturate.  This usually takes two light passes.  More adhesive can be sprayed on the panel getting the cloth since the adhesive cannot seap into it and the glue will have dried sufficiently by the time you join the surfaces.  Do not push down with your finger tips as this will prematurely "melt" the foam together.  Actually, I do use my finger tips in certain places.  Toyota door panels have little indented trim lines in them, and I like them to show through the cloth.  I make sure to spray enough adhesive to cover the entire trim line (which requires longer drying time before joining the surfaces) then run my finger tips down the lines after the panel has been finished. 
     Applying cloth to concave surfaces (shaped like the inside of a bowl) also take a bit more skill than flat surfaces.  The foam tends to "wrinkle" if laid naturally on a concave surface.  When doing concave surfaces, stretch the fabric out a bit as your laying it on the trim.  Here's an important tip.  If you end up trying this and go to the store to buy headliner material, make sure you roll the fabric up and not fold it.  Folding the headliner material will cause wrinkling and it is very difficult to get out, even if you really stretch the material when adhering it to a panel.  Once you join the surfaces together, they're stuck!  You have about four seconds to peel only a small section apart and refix before the glue dries so well the foam begins to tear.  Try some practice pieces to get a feel for it.  Try doing the backside of a panel or something.  You can tear it off when done or leave some of it on to help prevent a panel from vibrating.
     The last step in applying cloth is to hide the edges (nicely) on the backside.  It's very simple.  All I do is wrap about an inch or two of fabric around the backside and use the 3M spray to secure it.  The glue is plenty strong to hold the edges in place.  You could use a glue gun or something, but there's no need to.  On corners, such as the four corners of a door panel, I cut out little triangular pieces from the material I wrap around to the back.  This keeps the material from bunching up.  Don't cut so far to make the cut visible after the panel is put back on the truck.  Applying the cloth really isn't as bad as I may make it sound--honest.  It's well worth the $40 you'll spend to cloth your truck.  The next thing I usually do is tint the windows for some privacy and deflection of the sun's rays.  I generally pull the windows out of the truck and tint them.  That way I can do all the trimming and let them dry in the sun before putting them back in.  This really cooks on the tint and prevents the it from peeling off so easily.
    In my opinion, the final result looks much better than a stock vinyl interior.  A cloth/carpet interior has the  benefit of being a little quieter too.  And if you're considering an interior color change, this is a great option.   You won't have to buy as many new interior parts because you will end up just covering the old color with the new color cloth.   
1982 Toyota Longbox 4x4:

-Mazda 626 bucket seats (1992)
-Full carpet
-Custom cloth door panels and
     carpeted back wall
-Shift boots from 1990 Nissan
     Pathfinder
-Tinted windows
more info on this truck....
1984 Toyota Standard Cab 4x4:

-Full carpet including back wall
-cloth door panels, kicker panels
    windshield pillars
-1988 Hyundai Excel bucket seats
    (surprisingly nice and comfy)
-Tinted windows
-custom bottom door panels with 6 1/2"
    speakers
more info on this truck....
1985 Toyota 4x4 X-tra Cab:

-1988 Honda Prelude Seats
-Custom cloth/carpet door panels,
     window,pillars, paneling
-20"x32" sunroof
-full interior roll cage
-custom mounted
clinometer gauge set
    from '80s Toyota SR5 Tercel 4x4
    Wagon
-Custom X-tra cab storage box for gear
-8 Ball tranny shifter/golf ball on t-case 
    shifter
-Tinted windows

more info on this truck....

Another View
Custom Clinometer Installation
See pics of an '85 4Runner's Door Panels and Rear Passenger Panels Here
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