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Text Box: Of Lake Buhi & tiniest fish in the Philippines
By Arlene Dabu-Foz (Manila Bulletin) 09/22/2003

 

 

          

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

                                                          

 

 

 

Text Box: BUHI, Camarines Sur – One of the best finds that we stumbled upon during our Bicol sojourn was the hie-me-off-to-somewhere-secluded Lake Buhi Resort. Located in Brgy. Cabatuan, Buhi, Camarines Sur, it’s an hour drive from Iriga where we stayed at the Philtranco staff house. Iriga is about 10 hours away from Manila on a sunny day. Or it could be longer, depending on the speed of the vehicle.
 
Fret not about the long drive – for it is a balmy treat or a welcome breather for hardworking people from their urban obsessions and pursuits. Just like in the United States. The only difference is we don’t have such overwhelming freeways that will drive you nuts if you’re not careful enough to read signs.
Except for its black stately gates, the resort gives a homey feel and environs sans the usually intimidating sprawling façade. The garden’s neat landscape paves a pathway that leads to the blue-sky hued pool dotted with cabanas. This spot offers a seamless panoramic vista of Lake Buhi and the two peaks guarding it – Mt. Malinao and Mt. Asog.
 
It was a perfect backdrop for a much-awaited lunch on our first day in Bicolandia. The visual pleasure was matched by no less than a delectable spread of native fares whipped up with fresh young coconut milk and made more appetizing with siling Tagalog (capsicum).
 
Hosted by the Southern Cross, our lunch was prepared by the genial Lake Buhi Resort staff led by the brothers Santi and Casi Nasayao. Santi is the resort manager, while Casi is with the kitchen staff. Interestingly, both led us to a gastronomical trip, with each of them explaining how every dish was done and what stuff went with it.
An instant hit with everyone, for example, was the laing, a dish of shredded and sundried gabi leaves cooked in young coconut milk and made more flavorful with hints of siling Tagalog. If they were to mix it with siling labuyo, Casi said, we non-Bicolanos wouldn’t be able to eat it.
 
There was adobong manok sa gata or chicken stewed in coconut milk, fresh tilapia stuffed with chopped tomatoes and onions then grilled perfectly. Santi said that tilapia is called such when it’s still a fish dish size. Double that size and it’s called Plapla.
 
Sinanglay, also a crowd favorite, is another version of fresh tilapia fillet wrapped in cabbage and cooked in coconut milk. This one is also hard to pass up. Aside from the fresh meat’s milky taste, the fillet simmered in kakang gata, almost melting in your mouth.
 
And the cream of the crop, of course, is the original version of Bicol Express – a hot, hot concoction of sliced capsicum (siling Tagalog) with bits of pork meat cooked in coconut milk. Three spoonfuls of this viand even with a little rice is enough to make you shed tears, sniff, and guzzle liquid all throughout your meal.
 
You have to credit the Bicolanos for being creative in the kitchen with anything and everything about coconut milk and capsicum. For instance, Casi was bragging about how they made their own version of patis or fish sauce using sili and gata.
 
Called pinatisan, Casi said, “Just mix the two ingredients and cook in low fire until the coconut milk turns golden brown and oily. Then it can be used like the Tagalog’s patis to enhance the food’s flavor.” True enough, the pinatisan is like the Chinese chili garlic sauce that spices up food. It made us eat more rice than usual.
 
A delicacy served like caviar is a very popular but not always readily available, sinarapan. What looked like fish fry, the sinarapan is the country’s and probably the world’s, tiniest fish. Dried and cut in squares, the paperthin fish flakes taste really good with steamed rice. They say, don’t leave Buhi without feasting on it, otherwise your trip is incomplete.
 
Capped with fresh and creamy coconut dessert, the meal made us feel like stuffed turkeys ready for the oven. To shake off the newly gained unwanted calories, Santi led us on a tour of the resort’s facilities. Some rooms, especially the suites, are being spruced up.
 
The two-hectare property is dominated by the 18-floor hotel, with two duplex structures that make up a total of 22 rooms, all modestly furnished and equipped with air-conditioned and cold/hot water. The owner, Cyrus Obsuna, hand-picked the fixtures and furniture for the property as his family is into furniture-making and stone craft. He oversees both businesses in Cebu where he and his family are currently based.
 
The package per overnight rate per head of R1,300.00 inclusive of three meals and a snack, is pocket-friendly already. Top that with fine, friendly service and a very comfortable accommodation, that’s a good bargain indeed. Foodies would be glad to note, though that they serve continental and other international cuisines aside from their native specialties.
 
For those who don’t have the luxury of time to check the market for pasalubongs or take home goodies, Santi said, they can prepare truly native meriendas like bibingka balinghoy (cassava cake), pitchi-pitchi (bite-size glutinous rice sprinkled with fine coconut shaves), ginatan halo-halo (saba and yam cubes, bilo-bilo, langka cooked in syrupy sweetened coconut milk) and binutong (glutinous rice cooked in coconut milk then wrapped in banana leaves like suman).
 
Nightlife here means going to videoke bars, discos, and ballroom dancing. The more adventurous may opt for boat riding and mountain-climbing. A boat ride around the lake then onto the twin falls called Itbog is pegged at R1,000.00 for a group of five. A speedboat or lantsa may be used for a group of more than 300 people.
 
Sealing peaks can take about four hours and Santi said it’s best to do it in the morning. The jump-off point is near the resort. A volunteer or professional guide can be hired to lead 10 persons to the expedition.
 
Summer is the best time to visit Bicol, said Santi. Well, at least by then, the kids are off from school and you won’t be nursing guilty feelings should you wish to overstay and explore more of the taste, sights, and sounds of Bicolandia.
 
Our group, led by Ms. Mila Abad, marketing consultant of Philtranco, is composed of Sandy Diez of Malaya, Ben Briones of Philippine News Agency, Vic B. Foz and this writer of Manila Bulletin, Jewel Regal, Didy Evangelista, and Butch Mariano of Philtranco, Rachel Alzona and Rakie Dizon of Caltex Philippines.
Philtranco and Caltex Philippines hosted our familiarization trip.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Text Box: Lake Buhi Resort Swimming Pool

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