People's Republic of China

When we crossed into China, we were in for a quick shock.  It had been fairly straighforward to get around most of South-East Asia, and most stores had signs written in English or French.  In China, all the signs were in characters.  It was wierd at first, but we learned a dozen words, pointed, and got around fairly well.  Our first experience was trying to eat. 
We found a restaurant and sat down.  Immediately we recieved tea.  Okay good, we can drink anyway.  We then waited for a menu, but none came.  Feeling a bit perplexed, a new friend (who spoke english) pointed out that we had to "select our food".  Alright, I thought.  How hard can this be. 
We were led to a large buffet table, where in amongst plates of vegetables, there was a full aquarium, and piles of tofu and various meats (at other restaurants there were large cages filled with various rodents).  I carefully selected several veggies, and pointed at some noodles.  The waitress scribbled this down, then asked me a very pointed question "how do you want this prepared"
I was confused now, so I suggested boiling.  She looked disgusted.  (Actually she was disgusted with our interpretor friend).  She finally agreed to make a noodle soup,  but stopped me from sitting again, because I had not selected enough items. 
Frustrated I pointed at some potatoes, and some mystery meat.  She seemed much happier, and then asked me how I wanted these new items prepared.  I was ready to not eat, as I stood in the street mimicking a man standing at a stove frying.  She seemed confused by my pantomine, but I got it cooked.
After this we were in for another surprise.  We found the bus station (and the lady who ran it spoke a little english).  We asked for a bus to Kunming, and she showed me a layout of the bus, and asked me to select where I wanted to be.  I looked at the picture and commented that there was only 28 seats.  "no" she corrected "28 beds"
In China, there is the wonderful sleeper bus.  For long distances, buses are equipped with bunk-bed style sleeping arrangements.  It was very reasonably priced, and allowed a person to get a nights sleep.  What was bad about these buses, is that it is perfectly acceptable to smoke, which everyone did all night long.  It was also very common for everyone to spit on the floor of the bus.  In retrospect, we laugh about this, but at the time we were very worried about our packs, which were rolling around under our bed- through the butts and spit.  Later that night, we discovered the chinese symbols for male and female bathrooms, the hard way..
When we arrived in Kunming, we had just spent 12 hours on a bus, so we quickly found a room.  To find our hostel, we had to get a lady who spoke a little english to write down the adress in chinese for us to show the cab driver (note, if you go to China, I suggest you buy a phrasebook before-hand).  We found a room, and then found the Laos embassy.  Once again we left our passports, and spent two days roaming Kunming while our Visas were processed.
Once we had permission to enter Laos, we took a 30 hour sleeper bus to Mengla, and then caught a mini-Van to the border.  We really didn't see much of China, and can justify this by eventually coming back.  It was beautiful for what we saw, and I know when we return, we will be more ready to deal with this unique society.
Republic of Lao

When we got to the Laos border, we thought it was odd that there was 3 km of "no mans land" between where we exited China, and where we entered Laos.  It was wierd, and we had to take a small truck betwwen the two (so we wouldn't be tempted to enter illegally).  There were gardens between the two borders, but it seemed strange to have such unclaimed space.
Once in Lao, we again set about learning key words, how to count, and from where to catch a bus.  (*Note: we can say thank-you in ten languages).  That night we headed as far south as Luang Prabang, which is the old capital city, and is now a UNESCO heritage site.  The reason for this, is that there are over 40 wats (budhist temple) within one little area.  there is also the palace where the king once resided. Currently, he is somewhere in exile, and his house is a museum. 
Other than wandering around town in absolute wonder, we decided to spend some time shopping.  We visited a local market, and browsed through collections of Laos silk, silver, and bags of coarse tobacco.  It was a beautiful and confusing market, and we both ended up lost, walking around looking for each other.  When we did meet, Mari had new silk, and I had a new tee-shirt and a pack of cigarettes that had been hand rolled for only $0.05.  I rationalised that they can't possibly be bad for you if they cost so little.
From Luang Prabang, We headed south to the capital of Vietenne.  Both of these towns are linked by the Mekong River, although now most people take the roads and the river is used only for cargo. 
Unfortuneately we had spent very little time here as well, but we were trying to get to Nepal as quick as possible, to enjoy the trekking season to its full extent.  We both plan to slow right down when we get there.