MY INTERESTS
Ok well I have a few of those too, I like playing squash its a great way to extinguish some of the days stresses, I also like fishing I like the kind of fishing trips that you dont just sit there and ponder on life I like the trips where the fish are so plentifull that I dont even have time to drink a beer, I think after a good days fishing is the perfect time to relax and enjoy a cool one or twenty. I also like singing Ive been told I have a great voice I worked at a bar hosting kareoke for a while, I quit that because I had other things I needed to spend my time doing, I think at some time in the future I would like to take that further but at the moment I have other goals to complete. I also like meeting new people and also trying to keep in touch with the special freinds I have made, as I see it, most people move away or loose contact with there close freinds and never see them again and I suppose we all are guilty of this trait. I also like surfing I grew up on the sunshine coast in a town called Caloundra it was a great place to grow up, I spent my time at the beach I learned to surf at a early age and every chance I got I was there, my favorite beach was Kings beach, that was because it had good banks and theres this spot where the rocks are where the waves suck up right over them and form a very narly tube. Oh and also thats where all the girls from brisbane used to holiday. I surfed competitively that went well it wasn"t pro just teams comps and a few pro ams, now at the tender age of 30 I find myself six hours away from my favorite spot and the barrier reef hinders the swell here so the only time the surfs much good is when a good cyclone sits off the coast but then its just wind slop, Ive been chased out of the water a few times by sharks that sure gets the paddling technique a move along, Ive had two near death experiences in the water the first one was when I was 16 I was surfing a place called the alley at the goldcoast it was big that day it would have been 8-10 foot and if you've ever surfed there you will know the power that it has with the river mouth so close, this wave broke just before the position you need to duck dive under the wave safely and instead of hanging onto my surf board I let it go, (mental note dont let go of board in seas that big) the other time was when I was 23 I'd had enough of my job and all sorts of things that were going on in my life at that stage, and I remember that day there was a cyclone sitting off Fraser Island and it was pushing huge swells onto the coast, in those types of swells there is only two places you can surf on the Sunshine Coast one is Noosa but that was an hours drive away and it was 5pm and the other was Mooloolaba at a place called (Dead Mans) I wonder why they called it that? the surf was around the 10-12 feet which was huge and I was pumped, I paddled out through the rip and got out to the wave breaking spot straight away I was the only one out there, I sat on my board and thought it dident look this big from the carpark, a set came through and a caught the second wave and it was the best wave I had ever surfed it was huge!! I paddled back out for another wave and got to the wave breaking spot again when I looked on the horizon and saw this massive set of waves comming my way I paddled my butt off to clear those sets but in they came they were huge they then began to break in front of me and each one would put me closer and closer to the rocks, I was worn out from paddling and I turned towards the beach to get a bearing on where I was as there was no way those waves were letting me back out there, what I saw next had me a little on edge as I turned towards the beach to get a bearing on where I was, there were large rocks about 15 feet away so I had to act fast, I duck dived under the next wave as I came up I moved by board sideways so the board would take the impact and as I hit the rocks then I laid as flat as possible, and from an act of god I got draged across a narrow reasonably flat area and got up of the rocks and walked carfully across towards the carpark, as I looked up onto the carpark there would have been 100-200 people looking at me I am sure they were thinking you idiot! I didn't care I had just lived right on the edge and survived to tell my story, as I walked up to the first lot of people I held my head up high put my fist in the air and said, I made it! by this time the blood had started to pour out of my chest and stomach but it dident hurt I was pumped, as I got closer to my car a guy said to me, good on you mate at least you had a go at it! .it was a interesting day.
I have learnt a few lessons from that day, and the positive one would be dont sit back and be a spectator in life you need to step out from the crowd and be yourself, ok maybe not nearly killing yourself in the process but do something that not everyone will do if you feel strongly about something go for it!. and the other lesson for me would be next time I surf Dead Mans when its that big, wear a helmet! oh by the way I still have that board as a momento of that interesting day.
