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| From: Quarrion ® | 15/05/2003 3:54:13 PM |
| Subject: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56080 |
| 1 HOUSING In all bird species, aviaries are the best solution to house your bird. However, not all of us have the space or time for an aviary, and “indoor” birds (depending on the species) will be fine if kept in a suitable sized cage if they are alowed out of the cage for periods of excersise and interaction. It is not advisable to free-flight your pet finches or canary, or birds that are not tame or easily handled. Small birds such as finches can be housed in larger cages inside that will allow them flight inside the cage. Cages: When choosing a cage, the size of the cae should be 2x the wingspan of the desired bird, with the exception of budgies, finches and canaries. Cages for these small birds should be sufficiently big to allow them to fly around inside the cage. Square or rectangular cages are better than round cages as round cages reduce the available usage area of space inside the cage and can damage birds feathers. Birds may also get wings, tail and feet stuck in bars of round cages. Square or rectangular cages offer the bird more security as they can utilise corners to “hide” in. Indoor cages should have a covered roof to make the bird feel more secure, to prevent dust and other bits falling into the cage and to give shelter from artificial or natural light. Cages should be placed in areas of most human activity. But not the kitchen (some cooking fumes such as chilli are posionous to birds); nor areas where there will be a lot of loud noise (ie not right next to the stereo or tv speakers!); or in direct sunlight or in draft areas. Cages should be placed elevated on a stand to keep them out of reach of the family dog or cat and so that they can see what is going on around them. Aviaries: Aviaries vary in size from large-cage size or patio aviaires to small flights and large backyard aviaries. Whatever type of aviary you choose the same principles apply. Aviaries should be big enough to allow the bird free flight over a short distance. “The bigger the better” is not always true in regards to flight area, as some birds (such as psephotus and barnardius parrots) are swift fliers and have the possiblity to harm themselves if the cage is big enough that it allows them to get up to speed. Small finches and passerines such as fairy-wrens are able to be kept in larger aviaries as they “flit” from branch to branch rather than straight-swift flight. Aviaries should always have the back enclosed and both sides either enclosed or half-enclosed. The roof can be fully covered (prevents debris and other animal material entering the aviary) or have an open section (usually at the front) to allow the bird access to rain and extra sunlight. Avairies should always face the direction where they will get minimal winter weather exposure (usually north-east aspect). If that means they will get the summer sun, shade cloth can be errected over the front of the aviary. Substrate: Aviaries can be dirt floor, concreate or both. Concrete floors are more hyginic and easier to clean, but they are not as asthetically pleasing and not suitable for all birds. Dirt floors look much nicer and provide stimulation for the birds. Unfortunately dirt floor aviaries can be a possible source of worms, parasites and bacteria, so a regular worming routine may need to be established. Such birds such as quail, passerines (softbills), and some parrots greatly prefer dirt-floor aviaries as it stimulates natural behaviour (ie digging, foraging for food, dust-bathing). With large parrots and cockatoos, it’s reccomended that chicken wire or mesh be place 15-30cm under the soil to prevent them digging out. | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 15/05/2003 3:56:01 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56081 |
| Housing Cont... Plants: Small birds and small parrots will do well in planted aviaries, but larger parrots, cockatoos and cockatiel will destroy plantlife. In these cases it’ suggested that fresh leaves and branches be provided on a daily or 2nd daily basis. Check that plants are non-toxic and avoid using plants with a sticky sap or milky sap. Perches: The saying “Less is more” is true when considering perches. If you have too many perches in a cage or aviary you are making the cage cluttered, and a bird has the potential to harm itself as well as not being able to exercise properly. Perches should be placed high up as bird feel more secure the higher they are, and at opposite ends to each other to encourage the bird to fly from one perch to another. Vary the size and direction of perches to give the bird variety and allow them to exercise their feet and legs. Natural perches made from tree branches are better for the bird than traditional dowl perches. With parrots, a suitable sized perch is one that allows the toes to fit around the width of the perch, without the toes touching. Comments? | |
| From: MissHmm ® | 15/05/2003 4:11:57 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56082 |
| Quarrion, I saw a budgie the other day with long, long claws. They were sort of icky looking at the base of the claw too. How could you improve its environment so that this didn't occur again? It was in a small rectangular cage inside a house with those dowl perches. Thanks. H* | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 15/05/2003 4:22:42 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56083 |
| Hi M, You can purchase sandpaper strips that fit over the birds perch. When they walk across the perch the nail is filed down. Really the nails should be trimmed regularily to avoid this, but sand paper on the perches will help. Natural perches will also help keep the nails down. - Q | |
| From: BatZ ® | 15/05/2003 4:39:09 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56084 |
| Can the activity level of the bird help in keeping the nails natural short? I've noticed that my new budgie Dilkara, [have had it for 2 years now] has never needed nail trimming. The previous budgie Baringa I had needed regular nail trimming [was always so sedentary]. Dilkara is so much more active, always on the go running back and forth on natural perches chasing its toys. The canaries need regular trimming as well as all they seem to do is sit on their perches [natural] and go down to feed and drink. ^"^ | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 15/05/2003 4:54:27 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56085 |
| Can the activity level of the bird help in keeping the nails natural short? Definately! Just as you noticed with your budgies ... canaries are notorious for having problems with long nails. I don't know much about canaries sorry. I have seen them in avairies and in cages with long nails, so I think trimming may be the only way of keeping their nails short. - Q | |
| From: Davidavid ® | 15/05/2003 5:07:58 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56086 |
| Or a cat to increase their activity levels. | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 15/05/2003 5:46:22 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56087 |
| In regards to housing I should also add in: Compatibility Not all birds are going to get along well together. Some species of birds, such as Psephotus parrots (Red-rumps, golden-shoulders, hoodeds), rosellas, some lorikeets, indian ringnecks and some of the finches (ie Crimson Finch) and doves (ie Spinifex Pigeon) should only be housed as one pair per aviary and not housed with other birds. Other birds may be housed with members of different families (ie Red-rumpeds can be housed with finches and doves, but not with other parrots) but not members of the same family or especially not the same genus. Other birds should be housed as 1 male and many females (some of the finches) or as one female and many males (fairy-wrens), and other birds you should keep as even numbers of pairs (most parrots). Non-breeding birds tend to be less agressive than birds that are breeding and you may be able to get away with keeping agressive birds together out of the breeding season or if they are all males or all females. Also, as a general rule, large parrots should not be kept with small perching birds. Parrots, cockatoos and cockatiel bite their neighbours feet to get them to move along a perch or move away from them. This can mean the loss of a leg or two for smaller birds. With quail, it is best to remove the males just before the chicks hatch as males will often kill hatching or newly hatched chicks. And when not breeding, males should be separated from females to prevent bullying. ~:> | |
| From: G-wiz ® | 15/05/2003 5:56:11 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56088 |
| Looks pretty good Q. I definitely disagree with the sandpaper on the perches idea myself. I've heard it can cause lots of problems and look at it from your own perspective. Would you like to walk around on sandpaper? IMO the answer is to learn how to clip the nails and use natural perches instead of dowel. | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 15/05/2003 6:02:23 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56089 |
| Um yeah - I should of mentioned that the sand paper thing is only temporary, as in 2-3 days. You wouldn't use it all the time! Natural branches are preferable, yes. :) - Q | |
| From: Tapperboy (fasto) ® | 15/05/2003 6:36:19 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56092 |
| So, in future I shall refer to these hints as.... Qtips. :) | |
| From: Daria ® | 15/05/2003 7:26:08 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56102 |
| Hi Q Can you give me your professional opinion on clipping wings of birds? | |
| From: boxhead ® | 15/05/2003 11:08:08 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56139 |
Hmmmm, what a coincidence Daria, you ask the only FAQ question that Quarrion has up yet >:) Wing Clipping. (It was a while ago and a bit different situation, so maybe Q has something more to add.) | |
| From: Daria ® | 16/05/2003 3:11:26 AM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56169 |
| Well how about that! Thanks boxhead. | |
| From: ET ® | 16/05/2003 4:47:31 AM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56172 |
| I have always thought that keeping birds at all was cruel? Unless they were rescued and unable to fend for themselves in the wild. It makes me sad to see birds cooped up. | |
| From: BatZ ® | 16/05/2003 8:01:04 AM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56173 |
| ET, Keeping birds that have been bred in captivity, I don't see a real problem with [as long as they have the proper sized cage]. As they have been brought up in caged conditions and generally know no different. Wild birds that have been rescued is a different matter. If they can be safely released after recouperation then yes - release them. If they are a 'feral' species then you shouldn't re-release them. So if you recouperate a non-native species then be prepared to keep it for the rest of it's natural life, or find someone who will. ^"^ | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 16/05/2003 12:27:27 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56206 |
| I will put up Wing Clipping in another FAQ and then we can all discuss it. As for birds in cages, that’s also another thread. You can start one if you like ET, I’m not going to discuss it here. ~:> | |
| From: Crustacean Rejoinder ® | 16/05/2003 2:43:31 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56215 |
| Hi Quarrion What amount of time do you recommend a bird like a princess parrot should spend outside the cage every day? | |
| From: Quarrion ® | 16/05/2003 10:34:05 PM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56434 |
| What amount of time do you recommend a bird like a princess parrot should spend outside the cage every day? As much time as you can give it. It's no good me telling you to spend 'x' amount of time with your bird out of the cage, if your lifestyle does not allow you to. If you have your bird out when you are at home, and preferably when your relaxed - ie not rushing around getting ready for work ect. We have the tiel out from when we get home to bed time (or when they fall asleep -which ever first) and they also get a fly in the morning while I clean their cage and get their breakfast. They are out more on the weekends - most of the day - as we are home more. Sometimes the bird won't want to come out and play - that's alright, as long as it is given the option. - Q | |
| From: Brendon ® | 17/05/2003 12:12:16 AM |
| Subject: re: Bird Care FAQ 1: Housing | post id: 56457 |
| Good stuff Q, except I'm implicated for not having a big enough cage, among other things... >>Sometimes the bird won't want to come out and play Not mine! She's always desperate to hop out. | |
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