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Misc. Wisdom

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  A golden rule of rugs is the farther apart the warp sett, the more the weft packs down. Therefore I recommend to use a slightly wider sett than you would with a big loom.  I like a "weft faced" look when I weave with rags. I've actually had working warps of 2 epi for chunky wool wefts. (I clump the warp ends in groups of 4 or 5 ends if using an 8/4 weight at 12 epi). The resulting rug looks rather like a braided rug. If you don't mind a bit of warp showing through, set the warp closer. If you set it at, say, 12 epi the warp seems to float over the rags. (if the rags are pencil width when scrunched up). If your jeans are old and soft they will pack better than new. If cut 1" wide I'd use 4 or 6 working ends, depending on the look you want. The epi could be 12. Just group the ends appropriately. (ie  if you want 4 working ends the groups would be 3 ends). Continue to weave with an open mind, have fun and keep records. I use all harnesses even for plain weave. This added weight allows better sheds.

Susanne in Maine
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( also see "
Union Loom - Misc Tips )
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  After washing, I've frozen wet strips of wool, just rolled up smoothly, no tube in the middle.  I was taught this by a rug hooker.  She suggested I go to a thrift store and buy a big heavy old butcher knife, and keep it well sharpened.  Cut on a wooden board.  Dry by fluffing  into a pile after it thaws and turning every once in a while.  Works great!

Vaughn in Western CO
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  I have one suggestion for weaving the unbalanced boundweaves like Krokbragd.  It is the weave structure that can cause the curling that has been asked about.  Excessive bubbling of the weft combined with hard beating will exacerbate this problem.  I read some instructions in Swedish on dealing with this problem and it was suggested that if you control the bubbling and beat so that you leave a few specks of the warp showing here and there, the result will give you less curling.  The wool will relax and cover the warp more completely after being cut from the loom.
  These weaves were originally used to make coverlets, not rugs.  They were often woven with three shafts on a counterbalance loom.  The three shaft threading causes less of an unbalanced weave than the four shafts will cause.  And more recent applications of the four shaft versions are for wall hangings.  The coverletd were woven in very fine threads to make a light weight weave.  I have seen some older examples of these coverlets in museums and although some are worn, the warp does show a bit here and there.  But, the problem of curling is not as evident as it is with the present day rugs made with these techniques.

Joanne
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> I would like to weave my next rag rug using only 2 of
> the 4 shafts on my Leclerc loom, which has been
> converted from jack to CB. Is there a preferred way to
> do this? For example, should I just use shafts 1 and 2,
> 2 and 3 or what?


  You can thread on just 1 and 3 and then tieup  treadle A to sink 1 & 2, treadle B to sink 3& 4.  Shafts 2 and 4 will merely go along for the ride.  If you get a less than perfect shed with a simulated 2 harness method, you can use shoelaces to tie shafts 1 & 2 together at the top bar and like wise for shafts 3 & 4.

Bill Koepp
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Breaking Warps

  If your selvages are breaking it is most likely caused by excessive abrasion from the reed. If the ends are at a right angle to the warp when the reed is forward you are definitely pulled in too far.

  I use a temple for almost all my weaving projects. I set it the width of the warp in the reed and move it every 1". It keeps the warp fully spread so the beater can contact the entire fell of the web. This helps with packing the rug tightly as well as prevents the selvages from  breaking.

Susanne in Maine
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Warping Paddle

> I want to buy a paddle so I don't have a tangled mess that
> I end up throwing out the front door.  I would like some
> conversation, and suggestions about buying a paddle.

I'd buy or make a rigid heddle paddle, easy to operate, no finger twiddling....

Bill Koepp
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I use a Leclerc hole and slot paddle. It has a nice handle and about 24 holes and slots. It's pretty, too.

Susanne in Maine
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   I have made rugs of poly/cotton blend knits in the past and they turn out well, but are rather soft when done.  I personally prefer a nice firm rug, but they work well as bathmats and runners in my boys bathroom, and clean up easily.  You must be very careful to avoid stretching the weft strips when inserting them in the weft or the edges of the rug will do strange things when off loom.

Su Butler
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Warp Choices

> I have a warp question?? On some of the rugs that I first made
> the warp is breaking. These rugs are in front of a door and get
> washed very often.  Is there a good heavy duty warp that you
>would recommend?  Sandra in MO <


  I use the poly cotton blended rug warp. Comes in a lot of nice colors.  All my rug looms are warped with it.  I also use it in placemats and runners.  Never had anyone say it's worn out, and I have some rugs that I have been washing for five years now and they are as good as they day I wove them.  It doesn't seem to *fray* on the fringes either like cotton does.

KarenInTheWoods
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  I have found that cotton rug warp doesn't last very long, especially if any of it is exposed, as in rag ugs, or overshot.  Linen will last longer, and if you are not a purist, nylon will last forever.  It is a little ard to keep tight on your loom, and doesn't lend itself to long warps.

Suzie
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If you want to use cotton, try the 12/6 or 12/9 Swedish or Finnish cotton.  It never seems to wear out!  8/4 cotton will wear out pretty quickly, which may be why so many weavers use it doubled....just to add strength. 

Su Butler
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http://www.oocities.org/rugtalk
(A golden rule of rugs is...)
(I have one suggestion for weaving the unbalanced boundweaves...)
(If your selvages are breaking it is most likely caused by...)