UK News
Jul '99 |
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Aberdeen furore
15 Jul '99
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Mike Reed has been causing a stir in the North East recently.
After writing up reports of some new routes in the routes book in Tiso's, he admitted there were other adjacent lines to do,
but warned the rest Aberdeen off them saying 'I saw them first'. This has prompted much scrawling, with one wag suggesting
that as his great-grandfather sailed down the coast, by rights he should have first claim on all the routes. Another
pundit laid claim to the spaces between the lines in the guidebook.
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Le Menestral at Stanage again
13 Jul '99
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Marc Le Menestral has apparently done the start of Careless Torque (E6 7a) at Stanage.
This route, first climbed by Ron Fawcett in the late 80s, has been unrepeated since, save for a clean toprope by John Dunne. Font 8a+?
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Strongman Smith
13 Jul '99
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In the seedy indoor world of The Schoolroom, Malcolm Smith has apparently done a Font 8b problem that Ben Moon has failed on so far. To rub salt into the wound, Malcolm did the problem wearing his weightbelt.
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Parthian Shot repeats
13 Jul '99
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Both Neil Bentley and Nick Sellers have recently repeated the John Dunne super-route Parthian Shot (E9 7a) at Burbage South,
previously only repeated by Seb Grieve.
Bentley placed all gear on lead and took several impressive falls onto the RPs - he thought it more like F8b to climb this way.
It's not yet clear whether Sellers
placed his gear en route, but is an impressive tick for the man who apparently doesn't own any trad gear!
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Grit E7 onsighted
13 Jul '99
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Ben Tetler has apparently made an onsight solo of One Chomosome's Missing (E7 6b) at Harston Rocks in Staffordshire.
This is the first undisputed natural grit E7 to have received this treatment, the other E7s being in quarries or perhaps E6.
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©J.Read 1999
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