Another part I made for the RS was a larger footprint for the side stand.   This was fairly easy, took about two hours.

  I used 1/4 " aluminum plate for the bottom piece, even 3/16" might work. Draw a shape on a piece of cardboard that you like. Cut this out and trace it on  the aluminum. A sharpie pen works well for this .  To cut it out of the plate, I used a jig saw with a metal blade and wasn't  fussy about being accurate, just as long as you cut oversize by staying outside the lines.

    Then for speed ( unless you really like using a hand file....)  grind down the edges on a disc sander and trim to the pattern sharpie lines you have drawn.  An 80 grit disc works fine.

    To get a nice burnished aluminum finish, lay the piece flat on the belt sander for smooth parallel scratches. A belt with 120 grit works fine.

Burnishing the aluminum

    The top piece is a little bit harder, I used 1/8 " aluminum plate.Trace the side stand foot shape on it. Cut this out with any combination that works for you. I drilled some holes and inserted a round carbide hacksaw blade. These are great, very thin, only about $5, and they will cut in any direction (great for ceramic tile to cut pipe holes).  You can finish the inside with various hand files. Don't worry about the final outside edge shape too much, you will grind it down flush to match the bottom 1/4" piece once you have them bolted tightly together (off the bike).

    Find some stainless bolts and washers that you like, I used 1/4 " buttonhead, and get them overlength, 1" or less should be fine.  Drill ( and tap threads in ) the two lower holes in the quarter inch plate to fit the sidestand so they just hug the steel edge of the stand ( use  a 3/16 " drill bit for the thread holes ). Drill the upper holes to match these with a 1/4" bit . ( I also drilled two smaller holes along the centreline to let water drain out from under the steel foot ) .

    Now bolt these two pieces together tightly with all the washers and go back to the belt sander.

    This way, you can contour the whole unit as one piece and get some nice bevels and flush edges that will match perfectly. Also trim the exposed bolt ends down on the bottom side with the disc sander or hacksaw ( only to within 1/8 " or you will scratch the aluminum ), then lay it down flat on the belt and you will get a  burnished surface with perfectly flush bolts that are level with the bottom surface.

  I needed a quick fix for protecting my headlight on a trip to Alaska last summer, was going to order a plexi cover but waited too late. I had some 2mm lexan , so decided to try  fabricating one.

    Cut out a piece the same shape as the headlight, then put a heat gun on it and slowly coaxed it to bend enough for the curve on the glass.  Bought some rare earth magnets from Lee Valley carpentry ,  1/2" in diameter.  These will lift 10 lbs each and are a serious magnet.

    Epoxy 4 of these to the glass on the headlight, and the other 4 to the outside of the lexan. You want the magnets to squeeze the lexan, so don't mount them on the backside of the lexan.  They will eventually lose their bond , so use the magnetism to push the lexan towards the headlight, not pull it.

I put a nylon safety tie thru the lexan as shown because I didn't trust the magnets at first . . . . but they never let go in 19,000 kms.  For night riding I put the lexan in my luggage . . . just keep it away from any credit cards or tapes. . .  these are serious suckers !

Here is another solution to the bike keys scratching your triple clamp  problem.  Take some self stick 2 " black velcro , the  smooth half ,  trim it to the right shape and stick it on.