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original mount @ 68000 kms
Replacing top motor mount [850][97]... posted by Dave on Wednesday,
14 March 2001, at 4:47 p.m.
The rubber in my top (upper?) motor mount is kaput. Local dealer wants
$100 for parts/labor, $12 for
just parts. I like the second option.
Anyone have any experience replacing this? Any tips before I dive in?
Am I going to need to support the engine in any way, or is this part just
to dampen vibration and not a
structural member?
Any help is appreciated...
-Dave
`97 855 T5
`89 780 Ti
... posted by Mrsha on Wednesday, 14 March 2001, at 5:41 p.m.
...in response to "Replacing
top motor mount" posted by Dave.
that is good price... I just replace mine 2 months ago it was not that
hard
to remove the bushing... all you do is just hack saw the bushing out
Hard part is to press in the new on extremly difficult...
you can not press it in it a tight fit...
My friend come up with a idea ..
2 round plate like a big washer one on each side..little bigger than the
bushing itself.. over side..
and in center off that big washer we have a long rod with threat
we put 2 nuts one on each end..
Item that you need:
1. 2 big over side plate with hole in the center
2. 2 nuts
3. Long rod about 12 inch
So now the new bushing is in the center and lining up with bracket...
and 2 big washer sandwich them together...
as you tight the nut on one end this will compress the new bushing into place..
The more you turn the nut on the rod the bushing will go into place..
it take me 4 hours I can not get the new bushing in place..
With this new idea I install it less than 10 minutes...
My english is poor hope this will help..
Yes you can do it yourself...
... posted by Dave on Wednesday, 14 March 2001, at 6:54 p.m. ...in
response to "Re: Replacing top motor mount" posted by Mrsha.
Great - thanks!
I knew someone out there had some good tips.
Your english is pretty good too
Hey Dave,
I have had good luck with the IPD replacement for the top motor mount.
I had gone thru oem volvo parts in less than 47,000 miles.
The IPD part is very simple to install and hopefully will last much longer.
Good Luck !
850 Top Motor mount[850][95] [post reply]
kg -- Monday, 6 August 2001, at 8:03 a.m.
I need to replace the top motor mount, not much of it left. Can
I hurt anything by driving the car ?
Recommendations in replacements ? Does anyone know if the aftermarket
urethane mounts are any
good ? Where to purchase same ? Thanks
--
kg
Part I think cost $16.00 at dealer...
driving the car as it is I don't think it will hurt any thing....
all 850 seem to have a same problem weak mounted.
To replace it use a hack saw and cut out the old bushing...
hard part is to press in the new one...
If you need detail how to do it let me know I just done mine 6 months ago....
good luck...
KG- the "poly" should not break; so put it and forget it. Now,
the easiest way is to use a chisel and
hammer to hit out the old mount. I started to saw it out but
realised I had to saw in 2-3 different spots and
it is very messy. all that rubbber all over my engine was not
good; with the chisel it was out in 2 mins. then
you just push in the new 2-piece set up.Note: it will not fit
perfect until you insert the bolt and start to
thighten.
PS-use a vice-grip and socket wrench to make removal and install
eaiser.
Oh, I paid $20 for mine from easternaerospace.com;IPD is about
the same.
good luck,BD
--
97854t5
From what I've read on this board about the polyurethane engine
bushings, they transmit more engine
vibration to the cabin.
Yes, the polyurethane bushings shuld last longer, but be prepared
for an increase in engine vibration in
the engine compartment.
To be totally honest, besides longevity, I don't see why someone
would want to replace the stock rubber
bushing with a polyurethane bushing for the engine mount. Yes,
on suspension parts, it will make a
difference in steering feel, but on a part set more for isolation
over connectedness, I don't think it's the
greatest idea.
Think about it, your car is 6 years old now. Isn't 6 six years
long enough? My engine mount is 7 years old,
and not a single crack is visible.
--
I agree with Sin, there really is no benefit to getting a poly
engine mount as opposed to the Volvo-issue
rubber one. I've heard similar complaints concerning the IPD
poly bushing as well. For the record, my top
bushing is 6 years old and is still holding up well, just a minor
crack but no noticeable play or slop in the
bushing when the engine is running. This is in contrast to my
friend's 1998 S70 T5, his rubber mount was
completely ripped apart and the whole steel arm wobbled like
a guitar string! I'd stick with the Volvo
bushing and leave it at that.
Thanks, I'll go with the OEM rubber mount. - KG
--
kg
FWIW - I don't know about you all, but I'm trying the IPD bushing
this time. In the last 4 years this is the
3rd time the stock Volvo bushing has broken. It is cracked all
the way through and I can wiggle the entire
mount. And that was Volvo replacing it, so it should have been
a genuine Volvo part. I hope I don't feel
too much vibration from inside...
--Darin
After going thru 2 oem bushings in less than 50k miles I installed the IPD mount.
2 years later - no problems and no noticeable vibration to my
1995 850 Turbo.
Some of you guys have gone through 2 or 3 top mounts which is
kind of odd to me. My friend's S70
mount lasted about 80,000 kms. before it started to break whereas
mine is still fine with almost 100,000
kms. Maybe you guys should check into some of the other mounts
for the engine, perhaps those are
weak and/or broken as well causing you to go through top mounts
like crazy. Just a thought...
Old one came out quickly. I've spent about an hour trying to get
the new one in - maybe this is why many
choose to use the two piece mounts. Anyway I've attempted to
rig a press with a long bolt but the mount
keeps tilting to one side as I tighten it down. Any suggestions
? Thanks, Kevin
--
kg
We just did this job on my son's car. I used a threaded rod and
for the washers, used a couple of
threaded pipe flanges, normally used to mount the end of a pipe
to a surface, ( one for each end) which
had enough clearance to allow the protruding center of the rubber
bushing to fit in the recess in the flange
and the flange was able to apply pressure directly on the edge
of the bushing. Lubricated with soapy
water, and it self straightened as it went in past the slight
taper on the bushing. With this setup, we were
able to get the far side flush with the bushing holder, and not
beyond as it was originally, but there is
enough flexibility in the design that it functions perfectly.
Thanks the threaded pipe flange worked great. Took five minutes.
My first 'press' was a real Rube
Goldberg. Thanks again - Kevin
--
kg
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