Thanks very much to Andries for this great tip & sequence of piccies...

board	board in endcap	endcap	endcap 2
fit together	parts	solder job	wiper

Hi, thought You might like to add this as a hint.  Looks like plenty of owners get the following ABS error codes 141 and 142 which point to
either a faulty brake light switch or pedal position switch, in my case it was the latter, some soldering joints tend to break-off and needs to be
resoldered.   Here is a  mail I send to a couple of guys on what I did, gives an idea of what the switch looks like and how to take it apart. If you
want to post on ozbrick or on any place else is fine.
 

        Thanks,

        Andries
        95 850 T5R
 
 

        > Removing the switch:
        > Make sure you empty the vacuum unit by depressing the brake several times
        > after you switched the engine off.
        > Disconnect the wiring.
        > The switch is held in place by a sort of  circlip (silver piece in black plastic) which you can remove. Once
        > removed, put it back the switch can actually be pushed back past the circlip
        > (the switch has a locating lug and the lug locks in place with the circlip.
        > (the lug has a slanted leading edge which will allow to push it past the
        > clip
        >
        > Testing
        > Try and force the connector pins while measuring the resistance, mine
        > definitely had a problem .
        >
        >
        > Opening the switch:
        > Cut of the silicon at the connector end  and with a blade cut out the
        > silicon in between the end cap and the sides. The end cap has two locating
        > lugs one at the switch connector side and the other on the opposite.  You'll
        > have to try and lever this end-cap out without braking the sides. Try and
        > take the end cap squarely off else you might bend the "wipers".
        >
        > The problem:
        > My PC board stayed behind and I was able to see that the connection
        > (soldering joints ) were badly oxidized which indicates it's been a problem
        > for a while. The PC board actually goes into the end-cap  and I resoldered
        > the joints.  As back-up   I added a thin wire(many stranded from model servo
        > wire)  which I soldered to the physical connector on the end cap and on the
        > board on the same electrical track as the connector was soldered to.  This
        > was added as it should not 'fatigue' as easily as the normal soldered joint.
        >
        >
        > I put every thing back,(makes sure the pc board goes into the slot),. but
        > before pushing the end-cap add a little bead of silicon. And that's it.  Add
        > the o-ring on the front - end   and push it back into the servo. (oh and
        > reset your codes)
        >
        > Once everything was dried I started the car and used a piece of vacuum pipe
        > to listen for any leakage from the switch.  Drove the car this morning and
        > no warning light nor more.  PS the end cap fits pretty much like a 35 mm
        > film holder, it's only got the slightly bigger lug that keeps it in place as
        > described
        >
        >
        > Cheers, by the way it took about an hour.
        >