La Habana, Cuba, October, 2001
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In Havana, there is music wherever one goes. Some take their music with them.
Dominoes in the street. These men were so engrossed in the game that they only half-heartedly tried to sell us cigars and direct us (for a commission with the restaurant) to a good place to eat.
Between wonderfully lively strummings, the guitar player would indicate the tip collection with his picking hand. There is no shortage of fabulous street musicians. The tips they receive in a day could be more than the monthly wages of most Cubans. Some Cubans that I met only make $8 per month. The most I heard of was a man that ran a commissary for state workers. He pulls in about $20. Ruben, our host and a university-trained accountant: $15.
But the spirit of the people is strong. Simple pleasures of life, love, and music are the real riches of Cuba. They are poor, but they do not live poorly.
A short alley-turned-exhibition by a local artist features murals and various sculptures. On this day there is an annual afternoon rumba session where the Afro-Cubans celebrate their music, rumba. Completely percussion driven, the only other instrument is the human voice. Everyone knew the words, and for three hours, the alleyway echoed with song.
A variation on a revolutionary theme.
As though time has stood still from the day of the Revolution. In some places the old cars make it all seem like a trip back in time.
El camelo (the camel). A sort of semi-trailer turned bus. Ruben described it as the equivalent of adult movies. "There is violence, there is sex, there is cursing..." Estimates are sometimes over 300 people packed in like sardines. It takes its name from the two humps.
Banners read "A Revolution in every neighborhood." Some things have a long way to go. Others, like health care, crime rates and street safety, and public education are enviable. No one in the street was without shoes. Sounds insignificant but after what I have witnessed in Guatemala, this is quite an accomplishment. Surgery? University? Compliments of Fidel. This is NOT your typical Latin American country by any means.
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