The train reaches Jalgaon at 5 am. Here we pay 10 rs to go about 2 km to the bus station. Despite previous information to the contrary, we are told there are no buses to Ajanta until 8:30 am. The ticket agents are exceedingly unhelpful. Unwilling to wait, we make a last second decision to jump on a bus headed in the right direction. We have to stand for most of the 90 minute ride, but our gamble pays off as we get to within 5 kilometers of the caves for 20 rs each. From there we negotiate a ride into the caves for 10 rs each.
We're still a bit early, as the caves don't open until 9 am. Chatting with the vendors we learn that the nearby Ellora caves will be closed today due to a bomb threat made by a local mobster. Police and army are searching the entire area. Fortunately, Ajanta will be open.
We grab a quick breakfast at the canteen. A worker "washes" the table by tossing some dirty water on it and rubbing it with his hands. It's a beautiful day and I'm looking forward to seeing these famous caves that I've wanted to visit for many years.
I am not disappointed! Many of the fabulous murals are in a bad state of deterioration, but what is left of them is nothing short of amazing -- truly a world wonder. The caves dot the sides of a scenic, horseshoe shaped river canyon. Aside from some teasingly bratty kids, we have a "good India day."
After our visit, we're waiting for a bus near the entrance when I spot a cloth advertisement for some pan draped over a vendor's stall. I offer to buy it from him. The vendor is initially stunned and clearly can't understand why I would possibly want such a thing, but he quickly gets interested in how much money he can get out of me.
"What will you pay for it?" he asks.
"Fifty rupees," I reply, taking his questing literally.
"Three hundred rupees," he counters, thinking I'll bargain.
"Fifty rupees."
"What's your best offer?"
"Fifty rupees."
"Ok, two hundred and fifty."
"Fifty rupees. You didn't pay anything for this and it has holes in it."
"No, no! I had to buy this," he insists. (Right!) "Come on. Your best offer please -- the maximum you will pay."
"Fifty rupees."
"OK, my final offer -- one hundred and fifty!"
"No, no, no," I say, starting to walk away.
"OK! Fifty rupees!" I later heard from someone else that he was very happy to get this amount for it.
Dec 7. I have an unpleasant feeling of deja vu during a morning shower when I'm interrupted by relentless buzzing at our door. I yell outside but the buzzing and knocking continues. Just a few days ago in Ahmedabad, I had to threaten violence apon two hotel clerks who kept interrupting us. This time I throw on some clothes and drip over to the door in a rage (Sybil is in bed). Once again I have to get nasty with an Indian man in the hallway. This time the rude interruption seemed to be some sort of mistake. In all cases, the person banging on the door was so unbelievably tenacious that it is hard to imagine anything other than malicious intent. I'm sure it wasn't, but they were all so ridiculously intent, almost obsessive, about disturbing us for nothing at all important.
This is a much needed rest day for us. We check some email at CyberMall and stroll about a nearby park. We're staying at the Devpriya Hotel (not bad, but not great either). The restaurant next door (recommended) is also called Devpriya, but it has no association with the hotel. Another recommended restaurant in the area is the Bhuj.
Dec 8. Despite our rest day, we're bleary-eyed because drunken fools have disturbed our sleep for the past three nights. Once again, I'm tempted to vent but will try to show some restraint.
We join a nice couple from Bangladesh on a car tour. First stop is the impressive Da ___ Fort, perched high atop a mesa. We navigate twisty stairways and pitch-black subterranean passages filled with squeaking bats on our way to to top. Lots of stairs but great views.
Near Ellora Caves, we stop at Grishneshvara Temple, which holds one of the twelve jyotir linga. Afaidatu, the jyotir linga, is a phallic representation of Siva. I've been told (by a Muslim man) that Siva's consort Parvati, in a jealous rage, broke the linga into twelve pieces and scattered them around the country. Another story I've read says that Siva broke off his own linga after Brahma usurped his right to create the universe.
Next are the famous Ellora Caves, fortunately spared from the threatened bomb. As with Ajanta, I've been anxiously anticipating this visit for a long time, and once again the site lives up to expectations. Ajanta's highlight is its painted murals, and its caves contain few scuptures. Ellora's Caves are from a later period and are almost entirely sculptured. Ellora has far more tourists than Ajanta, but seems less crowded, as the site is larger, very spread out, and the vast majority of visitors only spend time in the most elaborate cave -- the truly stupendous number sixteen. As with Ajanta, Ellora sits on a lovely setting -- rolling countryside that overlooks a broad plain that Sybil compares to parts of Texas.
Hiring a car turned out to be more prudent than taking the bus over. The Buddhist caves are easily manageable by foot, but some of the Hindu caves and especially the interesting Jain caves are some distance away from where the bus drops you off.
After Ellora, we make a quick stop at the tomb of Aurangzeb, one of the last Mogul leaders, known for his uncompromising dedication to his Islamic faith. Since he used to knock down Hindu temples whenever he got the chance, he is something of a controversial historical figure in India.
Next up is the Bibika Maqbara, more popularly known as the "Mini-Taj" because of its many similarities to the Taj Mahal. While no substitute for the real Taj, the building and grounds capture some of the same charm. Last on our busy, yet enjoyable day tour is Pan Chakki, a shrine to Baba Shah Muzaffar. This shrine contains a 17th century grinding mill and it is crowded with pilgrims and families feeding the many fish who wait expectantly in the small reservoir near the water wheel.
Dec 9. You can generally count on Indian barbers to do a fairly good job. Today is no exception as I receive a shave, haircut, massage, and powder, followed by several tonics and after shave lotions for 50 rs.
Clothes sent out to be cleaned with a doby ghaut are marked in some small way so they can later be sorted out after washing. Usually this mark is either sewn on the label or written on the inside with marker. Today, an idiotic wash person writes a large "207" (for our room number) on the outside of Sybil's shirt collar. It seems to be ruined, but we send it back and they somehow manage to remove the mark -- along with several layers of fabric.
To avoid the heat of the day we stop off at several places for snacks or tea. We even stop for a beer, which is rare for us. Indian beers have some great brand names: Cannon, Khajuraho, Knockout, Superstud, Rock, and Royal Challenge. I also see Teacher's Scotch and Good Knight Whiskey. Since liquor ads are banned on some tv stations, many of the larger beer makers simply advertise a version of mineral water with nearly same label as their beer. In some cases, it wouldn't make much difference which one you were drinking. Even the best known beer, Kingfisher, contains the warning label: "most thrilling chilled."