Round the World Journal
by Matt Donath
Nov 12. We arrive in Jaisalmer just before 6am. As we are in the far West and India has only one time zone, the sun won't rise for another hour. Sybil and I are a bit train-weary and torpid this morning so we don't react quickly in packing our stuff up. After all, Jaisalmer is supposed to be the end of the line. Whoa! The train starts moving! We frantically grab our stuff and hobo off the accelerating train. Apparently, it moves to a depot a few kilometers away. Several people, including a foreign couple, who were having trouble unlocking their backpacks, get stuck onboard.
We have no trouble getting someone to drop us off at the entrance to the Fort for 15rs. We'd heard the touts were pesky here, but it doesn't seem too bad.
Walking through these narrow, pre-dawn streets, winding up the hill, I have a magical first impression! Few people are about - just some cattle herders and a few sleepers on the side of the road. Beautifully carved designs adorn the sides and windows of many buildings. Maybe I'm dazed by the train ride, but this walk seems surreal. Every turn on this twisty path leads to some new wonder.
It takes me some time to realize that Sybil has a plan. She's heard of a recommendation for the Deepak Rest House from some departing travelers at the station. Before too long we're at their door and looking for someone to make breakfast. Dawn greets us on the rooftop restaurant. The sun rises from behind the Jain temples nearby, bringing the promise of better traveling days.
Later, we visit these Jain temples, finding them surprisingly interesting. Marble Buddha-like statues with alien eyes line two levels of elaborately sculptured walkways. Aside from an old woman harshly whispering "baksheesh!" in my ear, the place is peaceful.
Jaisalmer's popularity leads us to several reunion encounters with travelers we've met along the road. Naomi, who resembles Sybil's sister and shares her name, stays at the Deepak (recommended). We last saw her in Varanassi. We run into a French Canadian family who we met there as well. We meet Juergen and Karen, an Austrian couple we first saw in Khajuraho and first spoke to in Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. Finally, we meet Sam and Emma, an Australian couple we haven't seen since Muktinath, although it turns out we just missed each other at the Aliment in Darjeeling and at the Yogi in Kajuraho. We dine with Sam and Emma at the Refreshing Point (recommended - the best restaurant food value in town but no washroom and very slow service).
Nov 13. After brunch at the Natraj (recommended, but pricey) we take a short but interesting tour of the Salam Singh Haveli next door. Jaisalmer was once an important town on the overland trade route to the Middle East. Many wealthy merchants built impressive haveli dwellings here. This one has a room covered with mirrors, floor to ceiling and all four walls. Four opposing balconies seated musicians, who faced away from the action. This allowed the owner to maximize his view of the beautiful female belly dancers he hired for private shows. The haveli owner sat with his feet in a small pool, cooling him off when he got too heated during a performance.
We spend the rest of the day wandering around the streets of Jaisalmer, picking up fruit and chatting with people in shops. Returning to the Deepak, we watch the sun sink like a rock into the haze above the desert wasteland between here and Pakistan. The light glows eerily orange and yellow on the murky horizon long after the sun has disappeared. The atomic bomb test site isn't too far from here and many jet planes take off from a nearby air force base.
Once the sun sets, the temperature drops and the mosquitoes come out in full force. Jaipur was similarly infested with swarms of tenacious mozzies. Who would have expected these desert towns of Rajastan to hold more mosquitoes than the sub-tropical wetlands of Darjeeling?
The only problem with our room at the Deepak is the dying cow beneath our balcony. Half the flies in Rajastan have gathered to feast on her. A man poured some Detol disinfectant on the cow to remove the flies, but then she vomited on herself and they all returned. A little calf sits mournfully mooing nearby. Delboy, one of the Deepak managers, tells us the cow will be moved tomorrow. I think this means the cow has now expired. I will believe in its removal when I see it. We've already given notice to Delboy that we will move when we see a cow carcass rotting outside our window.
Nov 14. Around mid-day, four men laboriously dragged the dead cow out of our courtyard. A black stain on the ground and many perplexed flies are the only reminder for the still plaintively mooing little calf. We are overjoyed that we need not search for other lodging.
We learn from other travelers that many tourists have had difficulties with the train pulling out quickly at the Jaisalmer station. We heard about groups of locals sitting on benches and laughing heartily at the silly foreigners leaping from the moving train. Apparently, this spectacle is a regular source of amusement here.
Nov 15. We stroll down to the Gadisar Tank - a reservoir decorated with trees and temples along the north end. Many interesting birds can be seen here. Sybil cajoles me into catching one of the quick little frogs for her. Then we check out the small but worthwhile Folklore Museum.
For weeks, Sybil has unsuccessfully tried to persuade me into taking a camel safari. Her claim that this would be an enjoyable adventure doesn't match my expectation of long, weary days spent in close frictional contact with a smelly, obdurate camel. However, we are able to compromise on a half-day trek.
Many, many outfits offer camel treks in Jaisalmer, so it pays to shop around and talk with other travelers. We wind up going with Deepak. First we jeep out to a tiny village, consisting of little more than mud houses and camel shit. We stand in the dusty sand while cute little kids try to charm rupees out of us by pointing out a baby goat and posing for our Swiss friend Peter's camera. Peter wisely gives some money to a mother instead of trying to distribute into the frenzied whirl of money-grabbing children below him. All the other adults in the village ignore us.
Next, we four-wheel drive through scrub desert to the small, yet picturesque Sam Sand Dunes. Here we meet a butt-weary group of tourists who rode there by camel. Now it's our turn to ride the beasts. These camels are even more ornery than usual since they are tired from walking all day. Sybil's recalcitrant camel doesn't react well to her rope lashings for more speed. Ironically, my camel wants to race a bit, even though I'm doing nothing to encourage him. He nearly tosses me until I rein him in. Overall, we have a good ride though. Our short jaunt is just the right amount of time for me.
We watch the beautiful sunset from atop the dunes. Then, after a simple but tasty meal around the campfire, Sybil and I steal away from the lights to get a dazzling view of the brilliant stars. To quote Sybil: "This is a good India day!"
Nov 16-18. These days are spent wandering around the town, enjoying the architecture of the marvelous haveli houses of the wealthy merchants. We visit two of them that are both named Chirriya (small sparrow) Haveli. Both were originally guesthouses for caravans coming along the trade route. The Nalhumal-ki Haveli has an admission charge, but two of its rooms are well preserved. The Patwan-ki Haveli has the most intricately carved outside. Charge or not, all of the havelis have shops inside where people will try to sell you things. They are all far less aggressive than most Indian shops we've seen.
Jaisalmer in general has a pleasantly laid-back feel. We chat with several shopkeepers and buy some torans (decorations hung over doors for celebrations) from L.N. Khatri at his Desert Handicraft Emporium on Kachari Road (02992 50026, recommended). The owner is the author of "Jaisalmer Folklore History and Architecture." He gives us a copy of this charming book. Mr. Khatri is clearly an amateur author but he relates a lot of interesting information about the area. He used to work at the Folklore Museum but had a falling out with the owner. We have a great time chatting with him and are very happy with the things we bought.
One night, we're dining at the Trio (recommended) with another couple when Sybil and one of our dining companions become convinced that Paul McCartney and his daughter are sitting right next to us. I'm very dubious at first, but it turns out they are right. Several other people, including Delboy, reported seeing him in town. Interesting to note that almost none of the Indians we query recognize Paul McCartney's name. "The Beatles" also mean nothing to them. Actually, that's probably why Paul McCartney came here.