them and size them all the same, by the dimensions of the smallest one, or using your own judgement. If there are some too small, you may need to remake them.
Lay your blocks, sash and borders out to audition them, before sewing together.
Press
the blocks in opposing directions from the block beside it if needed.
Sew
your blocks together from left to right, being sure to match all points. Sew from the side with the point. Audition before sewing the rows together, just to be sure! Sew the rows together two at a time, being sure to match points. Press your border fabric.
Measure
the top, from top to bottom, edge to edge at the left, center and right edges. Average the measurement. This is the length of cut for the 2 side borders. Cut them and sew them on. Measure the top borders from the side top, center and bottom. Average again. Cut them and sew them on. ( Note: Borders for regular sized quilts are often cut on the lengthwise grain for stability)
Press
all the unpressed seams, and borders. Prepare your backing fabric.
Gently Mark your quilt top for quilting, using a water-soluble marker or chalk marker (be sure marker will wash out before using).
Cut
batting and backing fabric approximately 36" X 36".
Tape
your backing fabric, print side down, to the table, on all four sides. Fabric should be snug, but not stretched.
Layer
the batting over the backing and layer the top over the batting. Straighten, smooth and, using basting safety pins, pin, starting in the center of the quilt top and the center of each block. Pin approx. every 6". Remove the tape. Your top is ready to machine quilt. (Note: Quilt basting spray is great for these small quilts: with little or no pinning required, not recommended for large quilts.)
Quilt
in the ditch, (along the seam lines). Use your clear monofilament thread in the top, and thread matching the backing fabric in the bobbin. (or your favorite cotton with cotton in the bobbin) You may want to increase your stitch length a little and I recommend reducing your top tension, also. If you do not have a walking foot, begin quilting in the center of the top. If you do have one, you may begin on the outer edges. Quilt from the same direction to prevent pulling or puckering.
Trim
around the entire quilt, on the quilt edge, keeping the top as straight and square as possible, using your longest and/or largest ruler and your rotary cutter.
Prepare
your binding. Calculate how much will be necessary, sew your strips together as instructed, on the 45-degree angle. Press these seams open. Fold the strip in half, back to back and press, careful to align the edges.
Audition,
the binding strip to ensure that there are no seams in the corner areas of the quilt.
Begin
approx. 8" from a lower corner on a long edge. Pin the binding to the top side of the quilt, just to the first corner. Begin sewing with a ¼"seam allowance from the edge, approx. 8" from the beginning of the binding. Sew up to ¼" from the corners and backstitch. Miter corner. End the sewing approx. 8" before the beginning of the binding that you attached first.
Connect
the binding as per sample. Turn the binding to the back, blind stitch to the back with thread that matches the binding and turn the corners to make the miter.
Prepare
the sleeve, if making a wall hanging. Sew the cut edges together, back to back. Press open on the back side of the sleeve. Attach ¼" below the binding on the top edge of the quilt. Sew on the top and bottom with matching thread, using a blind hem stitch.