Long time, no update. I hit some roadblocks in the last few months. Drama, tears and raging at the unfairness in the world. But now it's time for me to get my priorities in order and get back to what's truly important in life. Playing dress up.
I got my new Baby Lock machine. I communed with the machine and I believe we have reached an understanding. So far, it has run along cheerfully without causing me any grief.
While on forced hiatus from the corset (waiting for the stays), I finally figured how many yards of fabric I needed, which was actually less than I feared. I was a very, very bad girl. Instead of the cheaper black lace, I had to have the beautiful cut velvet (10.5 yrds worth) I saw in the store. Also, since no polyester is coming near this dress, I chose white silk taffeta (11.5 yrds worth) to go under the velvet.
I bought everything they had of two bolts of fabric and spent an embarrassing sum of money.
And now, with great fanfare, the fabric!
My bone casing and steel stays arrived. I sewed the rest of the bone channels into the corset. I sorted the stays by their size and slid them into the bone casing. Stays should be 1/2" shorter than the length of the channel according to the instructions. That should leave 1/4" at each end of the channel so the top and bottom edge can be sewn and trimmed. For some reason, that eludes my newbie mind, a couple of channels did not have 1/4" allowance with the stays in place. When I sewed the top and bottom seams of the corset, I had to sew very close to the edge of the fabric and use the hand control to avoid hitting the stays and breaking another needle. Don't ask. Finally, it was time to trim the top and bottom. *sigh* So not my favorite part. I procrastinated. I think I finished about 1/4 of the trim per week, but at last it was done.
See the lovely little pink diamonds under the bust gores? I've received wonderful compliments about that addition. Actually, the seam was trying to ravel at one of the gore seams. I reinforced it with a diamond and added the rest for uniformity. *shh* Don't tell.
Holly and I made dress forms of ourselves. I could go on and on and on about this process. But this link has a much better description than I could write. It was fun, but time consuming, not to mention tiring. We had to stand still for about 2 hours in full body armor...I mean, all of the undergarments.
Holly, thinking, "You wouldn't dare take a picture and put it on your website. You wouldn't dare."
I've added a series of photographs of my Victorian undergarments here. Photos include drawers, chemise, first petticoat, second petticoat, lacing the corset, corset with the petticoats, and, finally, the corset cover over the corset.
I did the final fitting of the corset and I didn't need to make any adjustments. I pinned the bone casing between the lining and outer layer where the stays would be. I pick-stitched through the lining, bone casing and outer layer at the seams as per the pattern instructions. I wouldn't have been able to line the layers up when machine sewing them if they hadn't been secured. I stitched through all layers to make the boning channels for half of the corset, but then I ran out of bone casing. (I ordered as much as the pattern recommended!) I've ordered the rest of the stays and more bone casing. After I get the order, I should be able to finish the corset. Finally. I can't wait to finish it and get some pictures of it up.
I showed the overskirt problem to Cherry. She looked at the back where the wrong side of the fabric was to face out and said, "We'll need to put a seam here." She pointed to the side edge. I looked at her. I looked at the skirt and I thought, "Well, of course we will." Problem solved. Simple as that. This is why I take classes from Cherry. There are still draping issues to work out, but I'm feeling better about the overskirt already.
Delays, delays. I decided I needed a new sewing machine. I've been using the Berninas in my sewing class, but I need a machine to work on at home. Choosing a new sewing machine should not be one of the most difficult decisions a woman can make. It shouldn't be. Unfortunately, I was stuck between quality and a dwindling bank account. I think I found a good compromise. I should be getting my new Baby Lock machine soon. Also, I can't order my fabric until I have a working overskirt pattern and have been measured for the bodice. But I have to wait until Cherry returns from her class reunion. I have been abandoned in my hour of need! Alright, dramatics duly documented. This is what journals are for, right?...Right?
Ahem. Okay. I accomplished one Dru costume related task lately. I found a customizable set of fangs. They stay in well and they look natural...well, for fangs.
I have a brooch. Pretty, pretty black shiny brooch.
Okay, I think that was Drusilla talking. Just ignore that.
I cut apart the overskirt pattern pieces, but I could not figure out how the crazy thing went together. I bought some muslin (90" wide!), cut out the skirt and transferred the pattern markings to them. Then Holly tried to figure it out. Some marks mentioned in the paragraph-long instructions were not even on the pattern and marks on the pattern were not mentioned in the instructions. Holly finally took it home with her and worked on it for an evening. She managed to piece together a pre-mockup mockup (because she's a genius). Unfortunately, the style isn't particularly what I thought it would be and the wrong side of the fabric is turned to the outside on the train. Because I'm using a lace and silk double layer, I can't use the train pattern as it is. I'm going to see if I can make some changes to the muslin mock-up to get the look I want. I may have to start from scratch and create a pattern. I definitely need Cherry's help for that.
Photo: Pre-mockup mockup of the back train.
That is if Cherry has time considering the current size of my sewing class:
Eek. I got my last pattern in this week. It's the bodice pattern and I just took a peek at the directions. I'm glad I have Holly and Cherry to help me because the fitting is complicated. The directions are very specific. They used to fit clothes precisely to the wearer. Also, and I knew this but I didn't know this, I have to bone the bodice as well as the corset. Forget bulletproof vests.
I set the grommets into the corset yesterday. Pretty good for my first set of grommets, I think. Setting involved a simple little tool and a lot of pounding with a big rubber mallet. Who knew sewing was a good way to release pent-up aggression?
FYI, if you are using grommets, buy grommets with washers and don't use a fabric hole cutter. Use an awl to make the hole in the fabric without cutting the threads. Necessary tools to the left. Alright, I've edited too many instruction manuals. Now I sound like one. I refuse to label my photos with figure reference numbers.