K. 26.10. Winter Storage Tips.
26.10.1. Wash & detail your bike, lube & grease everything. Perform a nut &
bolt check, tighten everything to specs. Using a Q-tip and dabbing oil on nuts and bolts
can't hurt either. Put a plastic treatment or leather treatment or oil on the bike seat
and saddlebags. Consider treating the tires, too.
26.10.2. Be sure to test your antifreeze to make sure it is up to snuff for the type of
winter you have in your area. This is a must for outdoor storage and not as critical if
you can keep the bike in a garage or heated basement.
26.10.3. Change the oil & filter, check air filter, brake fluid. Run some Stabil or
Seafoam in the gas till you can smell it a bit in the exhaust. This will help to reduce
"varnish" in the carb and fuel lines. Fill tank to top. Start engine and turn
off gas and let the carb run out to empty. This will lessen chance of varnish in the bowl.
26.10.4. Pull the battery, Either remove the battery and bring it indoors, giving it a
"top off" charge it every 30-40 days (do not store battery on a cement floor) OR
get a some type of battery minder.. If battery will be two years old or older anytime
during the next riding year, consider replacing it in the spring. At the very least, check
the battery with a battery load tester to get a good idea of its condition. A shorted
battery will look like it’s taking a charge, but will dye as soon as you try to start
your scoot.
26.10.5. FOR BIKES WITH CENTER STAND ONLY Let about 10 PSI out of the tires. If your
bike does not have a center stand, keep tire pressure up to specs unless you have a safe
way to lift and store the bike off of the tires. Put a sock over you exhaust to keep mice
and so forth out. If you are storing you helmet out in the garage, be sure to buy a big
pair nylons and put it in them to keep mice and spiders and everything else from making a
home out of it.
26.10.6. Only cover bike with a bed sheet or other fabric that will breath. Using a
plastic tarp will trap in moisture and rust out your bike. Even some so called bike covers
do not breathe enough for long term storage. Be sure to check under the sheet every now
and then to make sure nothing is going wrong under there, like a family of cats living
under there.
26.10.7. In very high humidity & sea coast climates you may want to pull your plugs
and shoot some oil in there, and turn your engine over a few times. Be sure to put plug
back, tighten to specs. -Check with your local wrench on this.-
26.10.8. After storing, there will be some rust on your brake ROTORS, this is normal,
just ride but be gentle on that very first use of the front brakes.-DO NOT!!! do not,
DON'T!! LUBE YOUR BRAKE ROTORS PRIOR TO STORING THINKING THAT WILL HELP PREVENT RUST. This
will FUBAR your brakes.
26.10.9. Put the key in a safe place and leave the damn thing alone! Don't start the
engine now and then, as tempting as it is in February to hear that roar all your doing is
momentarily grinding the metal parts together that don't have oil hanging on them anymore.
Better to let this happen once in the spring instead of three or four times in the winter.
Besides all running the engine does is gets the condensation running wild in the pipes,
engine, etc. If you’ve done all the above, your bike is good for the winter. Every
once in a while sit on the bike and go, "BBBBbbbbbbbbuuuurrrrrrRRRUuuuummmmmm".
The bike will love you for it and perform better in the spring J
.
26.10.10. After winter and before starting your bike in the spring, change the oil and
filter. Standing oil in the crankcase will absorb moisture and cause unnecessary wear when
you start your bike for the first time. Let the bike warm up slowly before taking it out
on the road. Watch out for sand left over from winter. It’s as bad as ball bearing
and drop you and your scoot quicker than you can say spring time. Chuck VROC 2851 Minot
North Dakota & Manjo
TECH TIP: When I lived in Iowa I always did just what you listed plus I had a
small piece of plywood I would put under the wheels. (pressure left at std). Change the
oil is a must because you don't need all that acid in the used oil left to eat on your
engine all winter. Also when starting back up in the Spring I would remove the plugs and
spray in a little WD 40 to help coat the piston walls, put the plugs back in and start.
Also I would change the oil before I started it up in the Spring to avoid getting the
condensation that had accumulated over the winter in the works. I would then run about 400
miles and change oil and filter again and was then ready for spring riding. Always used
cheap oil for the winter storage and first run in spring. Worked for me for 9 winters.
Bike never failed to start and had 160,000 on it when I finally sold it for $300 more than
I paid for it 14 yrs earlier. zuck vroc #2109 Nomad g/g Ponca City Ok
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L. 26.11. HAULING A MOTORCYCLE ON A TRUCK OR
TRAILER: While there are many tie-down techniques (some good, some better), I
figure what works out for you is best. But remember, there's no such thing as too many
straps! Here's a list of the "top 10" suggestions I pulled out of the two
articles.
26.11.1. Compressing the forks to where they bottom out can blow
a fork seal or sag-out fork springs.
26.11.2. Make use of the triple tree tie as a tie down point. It’s stronger than
using your handle bars An additional secure point on the bike is the lower fork below the
dust boot and it reduces fork compression.
26.11.3. Use a chock for the front tire when you can to keep the wheel from turning
and/or hitting the front wall. Also, tying down the front break lever will reduce
movement.
26.11.4. Given a pick-up with multiple tie down spots, do a "V" at each tie
down point.
26.11.5. Use soft nylon straps on bike parts instead of "S" hooks including
hooks with plastic covers.
26.11.6. With multiple tie down points, all the compression needed is someone sitting
on the scoot.
26.11.7. After the first 5-10 minutes on the road and after the ties get wet, stop and
check all ties.
26.11.8. Place soft cloth or tie covers between ties and scoot's chrome and paint where
the tie may rub.
26.11.9. Pull up kick and center stands that can scrub a hole through a bed liner and
paint.
26.11.10. Layout your ties before loading bike for quicker/easier/safer tie down.
USEFUL LINK: http://www.ridemyown.com/articles/technical/BC_trailering.shtml
TECH TIP: I’d like to add one more. Secure the loose ends of your tie downs so
they do flap in the wind and beat paint or chrome off the bike. Phil, Martinsville,
Virginia VROC # 953 '98 1500 Classic
TECH TIP: I've trailered bikes through all kinds of snow storms, blizzards,
and generally nasty, and the only time I've had any damage was when I covered the bikes. I
strongly recommend that you leave the bike uncovered. Even the softest of covers can scuff
the paint on your bike when it starts flapping in the wind. The only time I cover
trailered bikes now is when they are sitting in the motel parking lots for the night. It
keeps away prying eyes and hands. Grant wilkinson [gwilki@rc.gc.ca
TECH TIP: Maybe we should have put something about this in the FAQs. If a
person is trailering a bike or hauling one in a pickup, the handlebars may be OK for a tie
down, but I for damn sure would not do that with a big bike, no matter what make. My buddy
and I have trailered bikes a number of times. Tying to the triple tree, using ratchet tie
downs, lets us get it down really snug. I mean to almost full compression of the shocks.
Neither of our bikes has ever moved I have seen bikes tied at the handle bars leaning all
over the place. This is not good and not for me. We can only hope these guys don’t
have to learn the hard way. -- Kilo -V-935 96 1500L YELLOW "Pegasus" Wichita,
Ks. Ride Safe Practice random acts of acceleration
TECH TIP: Not to dispute MCN, however, I have an awful lot of miles behind me
using the handlebars to tie down large bikes. I use soft straps on the handlebars and pick
up the bars at the closest point to the fork that I can...such that I miss the windshield.
Only bike I haven't done this way was my '95 Wing which required you to grab the forks up
under the fairing. Another tip...I prefer to use a front wheel 'catch' and 6 tie downs
total. Dr. Ken Myers
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M.
26.12. CYLINDER COMPRESSION TESTING: If you are concerned at all about worn
rings or valves being the cause of major power loss, a $15-$20 compression tester can tell
you a lot. The best and easiest compression tester to use is the type that comes with a 12
MM spark plug port screw-in adapter with a quick connect hose. The tester types with a
tapered rubber base that you push into the spark plug hole will do a good job,
but they can be clumsy to hold in place as you press the starter button.
26.12.1. After fully warming up the engine to expand the rings and valves, disconnect
ALL the spark plug wires (and the fuel pump electrical connector if you’d like).
Remove one spark plug from each cylinder, preferably the spark plug in the
shallower of the two holes (BUBF’s are all I know). Connect the
compression tester to a cylinder.
26.12.2. Now lock the throttle in the full open position to allow the cylinders to take in
as much air as possible or you will get abnormally low readings. Turn on the ignition,
hit the starter button, and
crank the engine 4-8 times, while watching the compression tester gauge.
26.12.3. On my BUBF, I have gotten normal compression readings of 150 and 160 PSI in
each jug. Because of the compression release mechanism on BUBF’s, you
can get readings of 70 and 150 PSI. Significantly lesser readings in either or both
cylinders may indicate worn rings or valves, or a blown head gasket.
26.12.4. If you think the problem may be worn rings, remove the tester and squirt in
some 30 weight engine oil to increase the seal between the ring and the
cylinder wall, and re-do the test. If the compression readings are higher, then
it’s a good chance you’re ready for a new set of rings.
26.12.5. You should be able to reach maximum normal compression levels in 2 or 3 engine
cranks. If it took 5-7 engine cranks to finally get to maximum compression, this is an
indication of worn parts (or a loose tester connection).
26.12.6. At this point, if your readings are "normal", you can work your way
back to the carbs if you are experiencing a power loss.
26.12.7. If you did get low compression reading with or without the oil in the
cylinders, it’s time to get a more through and accurate test of your rings and valves
with a leak down test. It’s a simple test, but it requires a leak down tester
($50-$90) and an air compressor ($120+?) which your local dealer/wrench will/should
already have.
26.12.8. You
don’t have to bother with locking the throttle open, but the engine should be
thoroughly warmed up. Briefly, the set up is similar to a compression test, but the piston
to be tested must be
brought to just TDC( top dead center) which is the point where the piston is
almost at its highest
point in the compression stroke, and the exhaust and intake valves are fully closed.
You can check for TDC using a thin wooden dowel inserted in the open
spark plug hole just resting on the piston head. With the
transmission in NEUTRAL gently tap the starter button to turn the
engine over. The wooden dowel will move up and down with the
piston. On the COMPRESSION up stoke, you will feel a slight puff of
air out the spark plug hole as the piston pushes up to compress the air-fuel
mixture that would normally be present in the cylinder. After a few
tries, you'll get the feel for setting a piston at TDC.
I sometimes find it almost impossible to keep the engine at TDC because
it's been my experience that even 30 PSI is enough to push the cylinder DOWN
which will open the intake valve. Putting the bike in gear after
setting the piston at TDC will help. The transmission should
"catch" and hold the piston on one side or the other of TDC
without a valve opening. If the valve does open, then the tester will
show an 80% leak and you will hear a continuous hissing sounds coming from
an open valve. The last time I did a leak down test on my bike, I was
replacing a clutch spring. The right hand engine cover was off and I
could put wrench on the crank shaft to hold it in place. I don't
recommend taking the right hand cover off, but I only mention this so you
are aware of how tough it can be if you're not at TDC when you attach the
leak down tester and fill the cylinder with compressed air.
26.12.9. The pressurized leak down tester is attached to the cylinder with a connector
similar to the compression tester screw-in adapter, bring the internal cylinder pressure
up to 40-90 PSI. Now all you do is monitor the tester gauge which will indicate the rate
of pressure loss (which will exist even in a brand new or rebuilt engine).
26.12.10. If there is an excessive pressure loss (as indicated as a percentage loss on
the tester gauge), then you can "listen" and "look" for the cause.
Compression loss is heard as a hissing sound (the lower the tone, the greater the loss) in
one or more of the following areas:
26.12.10.1. At the oil fill port (the oil fill cap has been removed), then it’s
worn rings.
26.12.10.2. At the end of the exhaust pipe, then it’s a worn exhaust valve.
26.12.10.3. At the carburetor, then it’s a worn intake valve.
26.12.10.4. At either or both cylinder heads, then it’s a blown head gasket. If
you see bubbles in the coolant at the open radiator filler port, this is also an
indication of a blown head gasket.
26.12.11. If you are experiencing a major power loss, then it’s time to pull the
engine and fix the top end. If it’s something you can live with, do so, but the
problem will only get worse over time and your engine will be working a lot harder than it
normally would have to. Most of the above will apply to Classics and Nomads, but I
strongly suggest everyone, including BUBF riders, check their KAW service manual and/or
contact their wrench for precise details. The tests are not rocket science, but fixing the
problem (s) is non-trivial. As my wife is always telling me, seek professional help ; ))
Manjo ~V~ 1111 1500A9
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N. 26.13. Using epoxy glue and epoxy
filler to reattach broken side cover posts, reinforce existing posts, and make
replacement side cover posts.
26.13.1. Without the posts, there’s nothing except the bolt at the
bottom of the cover to help stabilize side covers. You can buy new side covers, but around
here (MA), new side covers cost $111.00 each. A lower cost "solution", is to buy
just the plastic side cover rim ($30.00 each) that the posts are attached to. You’ll
need to drill out the rivets that hold the old plastic rim to the metal side cover,
replacing the rivets with small screws and nuts. But this is no guarantee the posts
won’t break again after a while. The lowest cost solution is to fix, replace, and
reinforce the posts yourself.
26.13.2. For reattaching the broken post, I used a 60 second set time paste epoxy that
comes in two syringe-like containers. You push the plungers on the tubes to get a line of
epoxy and a line of the setting chemical which you mix together. You can then glue the
post back in place. You should either glue in an extra piece of plastic under the post to
strengthen it (thanks Doc Rudi), or make an epoxy "support" as described below.
26.13.3. I made "supports" for the existing "good" unbroken posts
and the broken post I glued back in place using epoxy filler.
26.13.4. To hold the filler in place until it sets, I used Mortite (a clay-like putty
used to fill seams around windows and doors recommended by George Lesho) to build a
"dam" under and around each post. This temporary "side wall" holds the
liquid epoxy in contact with the metal side cover, and the plastic rim above until the
filler hardens. The hardened filler made a solid support directly under each post. I used
a waterproof, 5 minute setting, epoxy filler called "Formula 27" that I bought
at Home Depot. The filler dries to a workable hardness in 30-40 minutes. You can then peel
away the clay dams.
26.13.5. Both epoxies I used are supposed to have a little "flexibility"
after they set. I figured this would help since the wear and tear of constant road and
engine vibrations caused the hard plastic posts to break off in the first place.
26.13.6. Be sure to score and sand the areas where the filler meets the painted metal
cover and post rim for better adhesion. A piece of sand paper does the trick. I
didn’t and I had to go back and glue one support to the metal.
26.13.7. For the "missing" post, I made a clay "mold" from an
existing post by wrapping a small piece of plastic wrap around the post to keep the clay
from sticking to it. I then pressed Mortite clay around the covered post. Let the Mortite
sit for a minute to cool and stiffen a bit. Then take an Exacto knife and make a slit up
one side of the mold and the post will just about fall out of the mold.
26.13.8. After pressing the cut edges of the clay back together, I had a pretty good
mold of the post. I then poured the same epoxy filler I used earlier to make the supports,
into the mold. Before the epoxy hardens completely, press a 2 ½ inch galvanized wood
screw into the middle of the soft epoxy "head first" and let it set in place.
This will lend extra strength to the new post and make it easier to attach it to the
support.
26.13.9. After the epoxy dried, I peeled off the mold and secured the nail tip in an
electric hand drill. After placing the hand drill in a table top vice, I started the
drill. Using small files, I smoothed and finished the new post. Sort of a poor man’s
lathe.
26.13.10. I then made a dam just below where the missing post would have been, and
filled it just up to the plastic rim where the lost post had been attached. When the
filler dried, I drilled a hole the diameter of the nail in the "support" where
the center of the original post would have been.
26.13.11. After dipping the new epoxy post in liquid rubber (the same stuff used to
coat tool handles for a better grip), I epoxied the "new" post to the epoxy
base, making sure I had extra epoxy on the nail and the bottom of the new post. This
anchored the new post on and "in" the support.
26.13.12. I let this all dry overnight and installed both side covers on the bike the
next morning. I’ve ridden about 800 miles over three weeks and the new post and
supports are holding up.
26.13.13. Total cost for materials $12.70 (two cans of filler, $3.85 each, for $7.70
and a box of Mortite for $5.00). Time needed, 3 hours to shape the clay dams(4), make the
mold, mix epoxy paste, pour the filler, and shape the new post.
26.13.14. If I ever have to do it again, it should take only a couple of hours knowing
exactly what materials I’ll need and having done the job once before. The
"hard" part is making the new post. If you’re not missing any posts, the
whole job should be an hour.
O. Replacing
Leaking Valve Gaskets
I
replaced the front cylinder valve gasket (part number 11060-1116) about two
years ago when I installed the dual-hyperchargers. While a leaking the front
cylinder valve gasket can be replaced without moving the engine within the
frame, the manual calls for the removal of the engine for the rear cylinder
valve gasket. I *thought* I could
do the rear gasket with the engine in place, but the two little bolts that
hold the chrome covers on the left side, top out on the top frame-rail before
you can get turn them out completely. I found you could do the rear gasket
without removing the motor by just moving the engine a bit.
What
I ended up doing to get the chrome cover bolts out is to remove the gas tank,
move the fuel pump out of the way, remove the exhaust from the heads, put the
Harbor Freight lift under the motor, remove the long front and rear
engine-mount bolts completely. This
gave the engine enough play to get the two chrome-cover-bolts off.
From there I could access the valve-cover bolts, no problem.
A small 8mm Craftsman wrench reached all of the bolts that held the
cover in place. I found the
valve-cover to be a bitch to get off/out due to the large acorn cap-nuts
holding the valve-body (upper) part of the head to the lower part of the jug,
which required further engine movement to get it out.
Turns out that both front and rear gaskets are the same
part number (11060-1116). I
cleaned up the surfaces with a 3m-scuff pad and reinstalled the cover with new
gasket. Reassembly was easy, just the reverse of these instructions.
I didn't take ANY thing else off the bike, like cables, etc.
I had to cut the zip-ties that hold the spark-plug wires, and I had to
move the hard clutch line a bit by bending it out of the way.
I left the bike on the side stand during the whole ordeal.
Any questions drop me a line.
Enjoy!! U-Turn ~V~1125 cmritz@yahoo.com
P. BY-PASS FUEL PUMP: A couple of
years back someone did make a direct connection between the tank petcock and
the carbs. I checked the VROC archives and here's a link http://www.vroc.org/archive/1998/msg05278.html
to a write-up by Ed Nelson v199, Hammond, LA. It was an emergency
where Ed and his son got his Classic to run after by-passing the failed pump
AND later bypassing the fuel filter.
You may get the same thing to work with an in-line filter if you can get
the filter positioned lower than the petcock and a bit higher than the
carbs.
R. Where To Find and Buy Parts.
1. Get part number from www.buykawasaki.com.
Go to http://www.buykawasaki.com
and hover cursor over :owner info" and click on PARTS DIAGRAMS. A menu will
come up with "MOTORCYCLE" filled in. Click on CONTINUE. Once
there, you can select the year <2003>, engine displacement in cc's
<1500>, product type <Vulcan Cruisers>. Click on CONTINUE, and a
menu will come up with ALL the 1500 Vulcan Cruisers for the selected year.
Click on your model which will take you to a page where you will click on
PARTS DIAGRAM. A screen will come up with both the US/CA and US/California
models. Click on one or the other. On the next screen, click on a part or
assembly <SWINGARM> in the left hand column of the screen. A parts
diagram will load with a matching parts list. Find the part number on the
diagram and then match it with the number in the parts list making sure to
note the additional four(4) part numbers after the dash (33001-1604).
You now have the complete KAW part number.
2. With the nine (9) digit part number, buy the part from your
local dealer, an online 3rd-party parts dealer, or a salvage yard.
Your dealer will have a limited inventory of 1500A/B/C parts on
hand. They will usually take your order and promise to have the part
for you in a week. The dealer then orders the part from Kawasaki, who
ships it to the dealer. In some cases you can negotiate a 5% - 10%
discount with a dealer, most times, not.
For online parts, check www.ronayers.com
first for online pricing. Their web site has an automatic parts
pricing option. They usually has the best online parts prices (5% to
15%+ discount on list prices depending on the part. Best to then call
them to find out if the part is in stock. You can do a Google (or
other search engine) search for other online new parts dealers to compare
prices.
There are a number of online salvage dealers that will provide parts at
50% off dealer list. Your better bet is to find a salvage dealer in
your area so you can see the part before you buy. Just remember:
the part is used and of questionable condition. The more moving pieces
and complex the part is, the more likely you will be buying another in the
future.
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