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   Spain Trip

Annie and I (gary) went to Spain for 15 days in the end of September 1999.  Annie had actually won free air tickets in a raffle at her work, so off we went.  Besides enjoying the atmosphere, the food, and fun of traveling, we had in mind to see some of the works of the great Spanish artists (El Greco, Velasquez, Goya, Picasso, Dali, Miro), the great cathedrals of Toledo and Seville, a day in Morocco, and the grand Alhambra.  A great trip altogether. Overall ratings (out of 10): Food 3, Hotels 9, Shopping 2, Sights 10, Friendliness 8.  If you have comments or questions that you think I can answer, please write mailto:gary.ogasawara@iname.com.

Wed 9/15.  San Francisco to Madrid.  Exchange rate is 156 pta = $1.  We flew Delta through NYC- Kennedy.  Leaving SFO in the morning, we arrive the next day in Madrid in the morning, completely exhausted and jet-lagged.   

Thu 9/16.  Madrid.   

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We had reservations at Hostal Lopez, but they were full and placed us nearby at Hostal Casanova.  A clean, newly remodeled double room for 4500 pta/day including tax.  A great deal. La Casa del Abuelo was great for Gambas al Ajillo (shrimp in garlic&oil). Museo del Jamon has the most reasonable tapas prices that we saw. Madrid's Mahou beer is my favorite in Spain.

Palacio Real Dining Room

 

Fri 9/17.  El Escorial.  

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Day trip to El Escorial and El Valle de los Caidos.  From Madrid's Moncloa station, the bus ride is about 1 hour.  El Escorial was one of the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition and a royal palace.  From the town of El Escorial you can also catch a round-trip bus to Valle de los Caidos where Franco built an imposing memorial to the dead of the Spanish Civil War. 

Ceiling of the Valle de los Caidos

 

Sat 9/18.  Toledo.  

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We also took a day trip from Madrid to Toledo.  It's about an hour bus ride.  We had been warned that Toledo was very touristy, which was true, but we enjoyed it regardless.  A simply awesome cathedral.  El Greco's house was definitely worthwhile.

Toledo cathedral.

 

Sun 9/19  Madrid.  

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We stayed an extra day in Madrid to try to catch a Sunday bullfight.  But, morning rain caused it to be cancelled.  On Sunday, most all stores are closed.  That fact and the rain made it a very slow and peaceful last day in Madrid.  

Madrid's highlights were the 3 museums, Prado, Reina Sofia (Picasso's Guernica is awesome) and the Thyssen, the Royal Palace, the Plazas Mayor and Santa Cruz at night, and the pedestrian shopping areas near Puerta del Sol.  Tapas are fun, but seriously how much ham or fried seafood can you eat.  Madrid Ratings: Food 3, Hotel 8, Shopping 3, Sights 10, Friendliness 7. 

Madrid's Plaza de Toros

 

Mon 9/20 - Tue 9/21.  Sevilla.  

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We flew Iberia from Madrid to Sevilla, and stayed at the Hotel Murillo in the Barrio Santa Cruz.  Of all the hotels that we stayed at this trip, Hotel Murillo was the one we liked least.  The location is great in the pedestrian-only Barrio Santa Cruz.  But the room was dirty and stuffy with grimy floors, lumpy beds, near-zero water pressure, and a heavy smell of cigarette smoke.  

In Sevilla, we also caught the Los Gallos flamenco show.  Using Rick Steves' book, we got the 10% discount at the door.  Sevilla's immense cathedral was my favorite;  Annie preferred the ornate Toledo cathedral.  The Alcazar is the other main sight in Sevilla. The gardens are extensive, but not that special, especially in comparison to the Alhambra's Generalife. The food doesn't improve much here over Madrid: sawdust-tasting bread, ho-hum gazpacho and paella, and those ever present french fries. Sevilla Ratings: Food 1, Hotel 1, Shopping 4, Sights 10, Friendliness 8. 

Sevilla Cathedral

 
Continued...   Part II