Well, it's 18th October, 1994, and we are setting out once again to visit our favourite place - Bali. This will be our sixth visit to the Island of the Gods. We enjoy Bali for many reasons, its close proximity to home is one, it is only three and a half hours flight from Perth, we leave at 9 o'clock in the morning and we can be swimming at our hotel by 1.30 that afternoon, this is of great benefit when travelling with children as they do not have time to become bored and restless. By the time the novelty of air travel is wearing off, Bali is looming into sight out the window and the excitement rekindles immediately. We begin to land and I have a strange feeling of coming home, my whole year seems to be centred around the few weeks I am able to spend on the island of my dreams. Having made this trip five times before, everything is all very familiar to me, and I cannot wait to get out of the airport and into the throng. We go through the formalities of immigration and customs, although these are very quick these days and do not hold you up for long. Then it is out into the street and into a taxi, and we have arrived. The drive to the hotel is filled with remarks on the changes and additions since last year, and there are plenty. The huge monument at the intersection of the airport and Kuta roads was a big surprise, pure white and massive are two words that spring to mind, and the housing development to the left of the Sanur By-Pass was an unexpected addition, hundreds of decidedly western looking little houses all clustered together, where there used to be rice paddies and cows grazing. They looked very much out of place, but people have to live somewhere and I suppose Kuta, Nusa Dua and Sanur provide so much work for so many people, housing has to be provided somewhere close by.
We soon arrive at our hotel, to be greeted with the usual enthusiasm, and shown to our room, and presented with our welcome drinks, which were very welcome indeed. The children immediately start rifling through the luggage to locate bathers and swimming equipment, Timothy is very disappointed to discover that we have forgotten to pack his shorts and bathers, but soon relents to swim in his undies until we can buy some. A quick look round to locate all the facilities, and then into the pool for a much needed swim, as it is very hot and humid. Apparently Bali was in the grips of a very hot, dry season. The Balinese were waiting desperately for some rain to replenish their diminishing water supply. The gardening staff of the hotel spent much time hosing down the gardens to keep them looking beautiful, which seemed sad to think they used so much precious water for our benefit when they had so little. Hopefully, they will get their much awaited rain very soon.
Much refreshed and relaxed by our swim, we changed and strolled down to the beach for a pleasant walk to our favourite restaurant at the Sanur Beach Market. Being obviously new arrivals we were approached on the beach by many sellers and market stall operators, with offers of the usual sarongs, watches, rings, massage etc. which we politely refused, promising to have a look another time, when we were more settled. We had a pleasant meal at a table on the beach, and strolled back along the beach as the sun was setting on our first day back in Bali. We organised our room and settled down to sleep, after a long tiring day.
We awake to a warm, sunny morning, eager to start another day of our holiday. After the usual tussle of getting everyone washed and dressed, we wander to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. As we brought breakfast cereal along for the children they have already eaten, so they proceed to the pool for a swim. As the restaurant overlooks the pool this is very convenient, as we can supervise while eating. Breakfast in Bali comprises of fresh fruit, juice, eggs and bacon, with toast and tea or coffee. Enough to keep you going for the whole day one would think, but appetites are big and you soon find yourself looking forward to lunch. We have decided to spend our day getting acclimatised and relaxing to get into the Bali mood. So we just swim, laze, have a massage and stroll around lazily. We had dinner at the Sanur Beach Restaurant again, to watch the full moon rise over the sea. A truly beautiful sight.
The next morning we decided to go and investigate the much awaited Water Bom, a water amusement park in South Kuta. We had seen the signs for this park three years ago, before they commenced building and returned the following year to be disappointed that they had still not started. Last year we enquired to be disappointed yet again that is was completed, but due to open the week after we went home. So it was with much excitement that we drove in our rented bemo. Arriving we found (although pre-warned) that the prices were very high, it cost us 45,000 rupiah (approximately $30). But on entering we realised that this was an amazing place and well worth the price. We spent the whole day there, John and Timothy enjoying the water slides, while Jessica and I lazed in the Kiddie section, complete with scaled down slides, just right for little ones. Having spent a most enjoyable day, we lazily proceeded back to our hotel for a shower and dress for dinner. As we were all quite tired after our day's activity, we decided to eat at the hotel's restaurant on the beach, then back to our room to put the children to bed and after a short stroll in the moonlight, we ourselves retired for a much needed night's sleep.
We decided on a relaxing day for today, so just swam and lolled around in general. After lunch I began to feel a bit off colour, so retired to bed. Upon waking several hours later, I felt slightly better and agreed to go out to dinner. We went to a small restaurant across the road. Just after we arrived the power went off (a regular occurence in Bali) so we proceeded by candlelight. I began to feel unwell again, so John escorted me back to the hotel, where I became worse by the hour. John decided to call for a doctor the next morning. The doctor arrived and examined me, prescribed some medication, unfortunately in tablet form which didn't stay put any longer than anything else taken orally in the last 24 hours, so later that night John again called for medical assistance, this time the doctor administered my medication by injection and it worked miraculously halting all the illness I felt had lasted forever. Unfortunately, due to the continuous vomiting I had become severely dehydrated, and had to be taken to hospital to be treated intravenously. I was taken to a hospital in Denpasar, by ambulance in the middle of the night, and put into a private ward. The next day when I came back to my senses, I found myself in a beautiful, clean room with private facilities, air conditioning and colour television, nothing like what you are led to believe about hospitals in these places. I spent two days in their care and I believe I was cared for in a friendly and professional manner, as good as anything to be found at home. On Tuesday, my third day in hospital, I was examined and pronounced well enough to go home. So we proceeded back to the hotel, where I was greeted enthusiastically by everyone, staff and guests alike. After lunch and a relaxing swim in the pool, I went back to our room to be pleasantly surprised to find a basket of flowers, fruit and wine had been left there by the management of the hotel, to welcome me back, a very kind gesture indeed. I mentioned to John that I was being treated so wonderfully, that it was almost worth the time spent in hospital to receive such a wonderful reception.
It is now day nine of our holiday and having lost so much time to illness, we proceed with a vengeance to make up for it. Today is Wednesday, and we venture into Denpasar to investigate the new Department store opposite Matahari where we have visited on each of our previous holidays at least once to shop for unusual little items not to be found anywhere else. It is surprising to find that most of the goods aimed at tourists in the beach markets and shops are available at the big department stores at smaller prices, whereas one would think the opposite would be the case. I find the stationery departments interesting, they stock the most intriguing range of notebooks, diaries and all manner of pencils and pens, all of which make wonderful gifts and usually cost very little. I also enjoy browsing around Balinese supermarkets, finding all kinds of interesting and unusual lollies, drinks and snack type goodies, most of which are not available at home. A good place to buy supplies for the fridge at the hotel, for those times when the kids are in need of a little diversion, not to mention evening snacks. It is also a good idea to stock up on crackers, cheese and fruit, for those days when no-one wants to go out for lunch. You can whip up a tasty snack at a fraction of the price of lunch in a restaurant. However, we spent the morning browsing in the new store, which we found to be almost identical to Matahari, and then had lunch in the cafetaria and spent a pleasant couple of hours watching the general population go about their everyday business, and the occasional tourist group who always manage to stick out like a sore thumb. Tim enjoyed his time, in the stationery-come-computer department nearby, playing behind the counter on the computer games. Eventually, we made our way back to the hotel to swim and rest before dinner. We had employed the services of the hotel's massage lady, to sit with the children for the evening, so they showered and had an early dinner in preparation of Sweetie's arrival. (Cute name, though not her real one, she was called Wayan, but thought Sweetie was more appealing). John and I ventured out alone for a change, had a lovely candlelight dinner and quiet chat, neither of us dropped our food, spilled our drinks or had any arguments, which made a nice change from our normal family dinner time antics. We went for a quiet after dinner stroll along the street, and then decided to stop in at the Night Market, which is aimed at the locals, rather than the tourists, so we strolled among the crowd looking at the general merchandise for sale, bought a few knick-knacks, had a drink, then strolled back to the hotel to awaken Sweetie to return home, and retired after another very pleasant day.
Today is Thursday, and we have decided to return to the Water Bom for another day's excitement. As you can see, we are spending our days more in the pursuit of tourist like pleasures than our usual sightseeing and exploring. We decided that we would do more things of the children's choice this time. On Friday, we invited Tim's friend Bjorn to accompany us into Denpasar, as it is Tim's birthday on Sunday and he chose to spend the morning at Tiara Dewata, which is a department store, which incorporates the hugest video arcade and amusement centre I have ever seen. John and the children enjoyed the fun and games while I browsed around again.
Saturday dawns, and we have decided to hire a vehicle with a driver to take us to Ubud, for a look at the market, then onto Kintamani to see if the volcano is still smoking as it has been doing for some months apparently. We arrived in Ubud about mid morning, and stopped off for a wander around the market. In four days the Balinese will start celebrating Galunggan, which is their biggest holiday of the year, equivelant to our Christmas, and it lasts for eleven days. Consequently, the market was chock-a-block full of Balinese women stocking up for the festivities, and we found ourselves almost unable to move, so made a quick tour and took a few photos and headed back to the bemo, to go on to a little restaurant we knew of, to partake of refreshments before proceeding onwards. After a pleasant, meandering drive through the foothills, we arrived at Kintamani, a small village overlooking the huge, ancient and now inactive cauldera of Gunung Batur (Mount Batur) in the centre of which is Lake Batur and also a more recently formed volcano (also Mount Batur) which is definitely not inactive and erupts quite regularly, and recently, although not on this particular day, unfortunately for us. Upon arriving back at our hotel we were disappointed to hear that some people staying there had been up to Mt. Batur the previous day and it had been smoking furiously. We drove back through the foothills and our driver suggested we stop at the elephant cave and have some lunch, which we did, then had a stroll around the market although very hot, and stopped to have ice creams in the shade before returning to the bemo for the journey home.
Today is Sunday and Timothy has been invited to spend the day on his friend Bjorn's family's yacht, on which they are travelling around the world. They are spending a couple of weeks in Bali to meet up with the children's grandparents, who have flown in from Denmark to meet them. We drive Tim down to Benoa Harbour, where Bjorn meets us in his dinghy to take Tim out to their yacht, he had brought along a life jacket for Tim to wear at all times, which put my mind at rest about Tim falling overboard, although he can swim. After dropping Tim off we carry on to Nusa Dua for a look around the the tourist supermarket. Very interesting, but prices are very high due to the close proximity of the high priced resorts of Nusa Dua. We went back to the hotel for lunch and a quiet afternoon. We picked Tim up at the Marina in the late afternoon, and went on to K.F.C. for an early tea for the children, as John and I are going into Kuta for dinner and an evening out. We had dinner at a nice little restaurant on Jalan Legian, and then a leisurely stroll along the main drag before settling at a roadside bar for a quiet chat and to watch the passersby, on what must be one of the most interesting streets in the world. We also had a very interesting chat with the young lady behind the bar, who told us about her family in Ubud and how she was training in the hospitality industry to improve her way of life, as was her sister, who both lived in Kuta, and visited their family in the hills regularly. We made our way home, to once again relieve Sweetie, and retire to bed.
Monday greets us with yet another beautiful day, we haven't seen any of the much needed rain yet, although we are enjoying the delightful weather, although very hot. We have decided to drive up to Ubud today and see if we can arrange a river rafting excursion, possibly cheaper than here in the tourist district. We started out quite early and took a slow and peaceful drive up the hills, but somehow became lost after missing the turnoff for Ubud. (I suspect that John does this on purpose sometimes). We found ourselves driving around the spectacular gorges of the Ayung River, and everyone is busy making decorations for the Galungan holiday festivals. All the temples and homes are beautifully decked out with colourful adornments, and the streets are all overhung with the delicately handcarved decorations, called penjors. Upon arriving at a dead-end street, we turn around to go back, and stop to ask directions from a family sitting on their doorstep and although they do not really understand us they give us all some delicious unknown fruit and send us on our way with lots of smiles and waves. We follow our senses and finally end up in Ubud about two o'clock, just in time for lunch. We make a few enquiries about the river rafting but to no avail, so proceed to the Monkey Forest, where John takes the children while I have a browse around the street stalls, having seen the Monkey Forest on several previous occasions. We then make our way back to Sanur, for the usual dinner and stroll before bed.
Tuesday, the day of Galungan, all the shops and restaurants are closed for the holiday so we decide to drive out to the western-most point of the island, Gilimanuk, where the coast is only two kilometres from the coast of Java, and the ferry runs between. It is a very long drive but the breathtaking views along the way are well worth it. We realise that it is a good thing it is a holiday, as the road would have been very busy normally with all the tourist buses going to and from Gilimanuk, as well as the trucks transporting goods to and from the ferry to Java. We stopped for a look around Gilimanuk, although there is not a great deal to see besides the wonderful view of Mount Bromo, Java, across the Bali Strait. After a brief stop for drinks and a few photos, we carry on around the coast, through the outer reaches of the Bali National Park, which is quite barren looking at this time of the year, once again the much awaited rain is needed. Most of this road travels along the edge of the sea and the views are quite beautiful. We decide not to travel as far as Singaraja as the time is getting quite late, and we take the turnoff at Seririt to travel south through the mountains towards the Antosari junction and then east towards Tabanan and onwards to Sanur. Although the light is starting to diminish the views through the mountains are unbelievable, with rice paddies in all shades of green and yellow, flowing down the hillsides. As we started to get back towards the flat coastal plain, we are driving into a cloudburst and as night starts to fall the rain becomes quite heavy. Rain is always so welcome in Bali, and it is a lovely change to feel the cool rain against your hot and dusty body. By the time we are driving through Denpasar the rain has gone and we are sad to see that it was confined to a small area and had not reached down to the tourist areas, to water the gardens and fill the wells. After a very long day, we have a quick meal, showers all round and an early night.
Wednesday and Thursday are spent just lazing about and enjoying the surroundings as our holiday is once again drawing to a close. Friday dawns as our last full day on Bali, John and Timothy have decided to brave the rapids of the Ayung River, Ubud, and go white water rafting. Jessica and I, will spend the day lunching and shopping at the southern end of Sanur. It is very hot and we seem to spend as much time sitting down for cool drinks as we do shopping. But it was a pleasant afternoon, although I find that being on our own without the menfolk is cause for cheeky remarks from workmen, which I find somewhat unsettling and I don't think I would enjoy travelling as much without John. Also on the bemo back to the hotel, the driver seemed to think that as I was a woman I would be much easier to rip off. I showed him that this was not the case, but was thankful I had the correct change to give him his fare as I don't think I would have got any change. John and Timothy returned from their day of adventure, with many tales of fun and excitement. John has purchased a video of the events so we can share in their fun when we get home. Sadly, it is our last evening in Bali, and we go out to dinner for the last time feeling quite sorry that we have to board our plane tomorrow and return home to our everyday lives of school and work.
The morning is spent packing, trying to squeeze in all of our newly treasured possessions, John is the packer of the family and tells us all off for buying and collecting far too much (as usual) as he tries to squeeze the bags shut. With much shuffling, squeezing and swearing we finally decide to have lunch and a last swim before departing for the airport to catch our flight home. I dash over the road to the one hour photo shop to get our last roll of film developed before we go. After saying goodbye to all our newly found friends around the hotel, we climb into our taxi and wave goodbye once more, promising to return again next year, and drive sadly to the airport, taking in the sights and sounds as we go, to keep our memories fresh until next time.
Our plane takes off just as the sun is setting over paradise and as I tearfully look down on the land I love most, I silently promise to return next year, and I will.
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