Australian Walkabout

Southern Queensland (17-21 Aug 2000)
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Last modified September 22nd 2000


Thu 17-Aug : Mount Warning, Surfers Paradise
We are on the road again today following the sun to the north. We stop for a rainforest walk at the dramatically profiled Mount Warning, which is the hard core of an ancient volcano whose flanks have long since eroded. The rainforest is alive with plants and birdlife; the first Brush Turkey sighting is greeted with excitement, but the elusive Lyrebird gives us the slip.

At Tweed Heads we pass into the state of Queensland. The state line is marked by a memorial to Captain James Cook, which may have looked very trendy in 1970 but now looks quite dated.

We spend the night in Surfer's Paradise on the Gold Coast. This is the ultimate in resort development, which could easily match the tackiest resorts of Torremolinos or the Costa Del Sol in Spain. Standing on the beach there are high rise hotels to be seen as far as the eye can see in both directions. Still though, the place does have its attractions with a dazzling array of restaurants, bars and nightclubs. Alan and I go to the very loud and busy 'Shooters' nightclub, which is tonight hosting one of the qualifying heats of the 'Miss Shooters' contests. The stunning winner claims to be a 21-year old school teacher from Brisbane, but as the compere says 'I don't remember having any teachers that looked like that in my school !'. Surfers might not be Paradise, but it sure has some angels.

Alan savours the unspoilt beauty of Surfers Paradise

Fri 18-Aug : Kangaroos at Wildlife Park
The Gold Coast has a myriad of theme parks where one can get pummelled by roller coasters and other torture machines; unfortunately the cycling, dynamic frisbee throwing and climbing have left neither Alan or I in a fit condition for such violent thrills. We go for the more relaxed option of the Curumbin Wildlife Park where there is endless oohing and aahing to the sight of crocodiles, kangaroos, dozing koalas and many others. At the kangaroo feeding the ranger is happy to show me the haunches of a red kangaroo where the best steaks are to be found, information which somewhat distresses the kids within earshot.

Little Skippy gets head over heels in child seat

Everybody say Aah !

Koala at an active moment

Sat 19-Aug : Brisbane Royal Agricultural Show
We depart Surfers Paradise this morning which is probably just as well as my sore feet and back could not stand much more dancing to throbbing techno music. Our destination is the riverside city of Brisbane, which is the Queensland state capital. Our youth hostel has a large 'Cead Mile Failte' sign at the gate and a shamrock shaped swimming pool, so there are no prizes for guessing the origin of the management.

We spend most of the day at the EKKA, which is the local nickname for the Royal Exhibition Grounds and the Royal Agricultural Show. This is like a trip into another world as the country people come in from the bush to show their wares and skills to the city folk. In the wood chopping arena brawny giants use shiny axes to cut through 300mm logs in about 10 seconds. There is a farm dog who herds ducks and chickens (inspired no doubt by the movie BABE). There is pig racing where different sections of the crowd whoop enthusiastically for their chosen porker (my choice 'Pork Chop' led well but faded into second place after the last corner). The village pub has a freckled, red haired Michael Flatfoot doing a spirited rendition of Riverdance.

The highlight of the show though is the Rodeo, which could easily have been in the heart of Texas. This featured crazy bull riding, bareback bronco (horse) riding and steer wrestling. the cowgirls also got to strut their stuff in the 'barrel racing' where they rode their horses at speed around an obstacle course of oil barrels. Every competitor was resplendent in Wrangler jeans, leather boots and cowboy hats while a throbbing soundtrack of country music completed the trip into the surreal.

All a blur as man battles horse.

Junk food cravings were well catered for the local favourite being the Dagwood Dog. This consists of a sausage on a stick deep fried in a thick layer of batter and then dipped in ketchup for maximum cholesterol, YUMMY.

Sun 20-Aug : Mount Kootah lookout in Brisbane
This is a relaxing day to recover from the previous day's Agri-excitement. We drive to the local mountain lookout which give a fine view of the city by the meandering Brisbane River with the Pacific Ocean in the distance. This is a popular Sunday picnic site for the locals.

The city is focussed on the sport of Rugby League today, as the Brisbane Broncos defeat the Parramatta Eels in the Preliminary final (semi final) at the Olympic Stadium in Sydney. We watch this in a local pub and the locals are delighted with their victory and look forward to the Grand Final next week.

Mon 21-Aug : Mt. Ngungun, Big Pineapple, Noosa
We depart Brisbane and continue north on another beautiful sunny day. Our first stop is the Glass House Mountains where we climb the dramatically profiled Mount Ngungun. This is not especially high but gives great views of the surrounding pineapple plantations and the glistening ocean in the distance.

The next stop is The Big Pineapple, which is another temple of kitsch, but is good for a photograph. Because of arriving late, we are unable to sample the more exotic pineapple-based cuisine and settle for some freshly squeezed juice instead.

Think of all the Hawaiian Pizzas that could make !

We stop for the night in the pleasant seaside town of Noosa where we spy a large manta ray swimming in the harbour.


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