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Anarchists cook book
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I stole these pictures form a french web site and
as you may know the french are thick, but the
principle is still basically the same (sort'a)
Growing
Bongs, Pipes, and other ways to enjoy
More bongs there but I could not be fucked to make a hyperlink for them all check them out !
Cooking recipes
This is the food of paradise- 0f Baudelaire's ArtificialParadises: it might provide an entertaining refreshment for a Ladies' BridgeClub or a chapter meeting of the DAR. In Morocco it is thought to be goodfor warding off the common cold in damp winter weather and is, indeed,more effective if taken with large quantities of hot mint tea. Euphoria and brilliant storms of laughter; ecstatic reveries and extensions of one'spersonality on several simultaneous planes are to be complacently expected.Almost anything Saint Theresa did, you can do better if you can bear tobe ravished by "un evenouissement reveille"
Take 1 teaspoon black peppercorns, 1 whole nutmeg, 4 average
sticks of cinnamon, 1 teaspoon coriander. These should all be pulverized in a mortar. About a handful each of stoned dates, dried figs,
shelled almonds and peanuts: chop these and mix them together. A bunch of cannabis
sativa
can be pulverized. This along with the spices should be dusted over the mixed
fruit and nuts, kneaded together. About a cup of sugar dissolved in a big pat
of butter. Rolled into a cake and cut into balls about the size of a walnut, it
should be eaten with care. Two pieces are quite sufficient.
STEP ONE. BASIC CANNA BUTTER RECIPE.
Take four ounces of chopped leaf or two ounces of heads,and an equal quantity of gee or butter and place in a vessel. Add a pintof water, and slow boil for 1 - 3 hours allowing the fat molecules to dissolvemost of the THC.
Leave saucepan to cool and settle, then place in the refrigerator.Wait until the butter sets, then take the layer of canna butter off thestinking brew. Most of the THC will be concentrated in the canna butter.Refrigerate for later use.
STEP TWO. CHOCOLATE MAJOON
Take 2 lbs. of sugar, and adding a little water, placeit in a saucepan over a stove. When the sugar dissolves and froths, twoounces of milk are added;. A thick scum rises and is removed. More milkand a little water are added from time to time, and the boiling continuedabout an hour, the solution being carefully stirred until it becomes anadhesive clear syrup, ready to solidify on a cold surface.
Four ounces of powdered chocolate are stirred in, andlastly
the canna butter is introduced, brisk stirring being continued fora few
minutes. A few drops of rose water are then quickly sprinkled in,and the
mixture poured from the saucepan onto a flat cold dish or slabwhere it
solidifies into a thin cake, which is divided into small lozengeshaped pieces.
In a double boiler, melt the chocolate chips until slightlychunky. Then in a blender, put buds in until they are finely chopped. Thenadd the chopped buds into the chocolate. Add sugar if you want. Mix alltogether, let it stay on heat for about five minutes. Take off heat andlet cool slightly. Grease a baking sheet or a candy bar shaping pan andpour the mixture into it. Freeze the chocolate mixture until completelyfirm. (Keep away from baking soda otherwise it will get that weirdbaking soda taste.) Cut into two inch bars. Then Enjoy!!
I put the minimum amount of buds in the recipe, of courseyou
can use more. About three or four bars should give you a good buzz.
Then to make sure all the THC is properly isomerized byheat (something I'm not sure would otherwise happen given the short cookingtime and relatively low mid-cookie temperature), saute the weed in a bitof vegetable oil in a little pan or pot at a low-med temperature 'til it'snice and aromatic and getting just a bit crispy and darker, but *not* tothe point of toasted, brown, or god forbid, burnt in any way. Cool theoil/weed mixture down, then add however may cookies' worth of dough tothe pan, mix it all up to get all the weed and now-psychoactive green oilblended in, and then dollop out your special green cookies onto the bakingsheet along with their paler non-psychedelic brethren and bake away!
Hint: don't use too much oil to precook the weed,or the cookies will be too, well, oily.
Variation: don't use any oil at all to precookthe weed, just stir it around in a dry pan, being again very careful notto burn any. I'm not sure which works best in terms of THC utilization- with oil or without, but I feel a bit safer using some oil because theheat is more evenly distributed and there's less chance of burning.
This last technique, cooking the weed in a dry pan, isfrom
the famous early 70's primer "A Child's Garden of Grass" and
doeswork very well if you're careful not to burn, allowing you to add the
isomerizedtoasted grass to almost anything. I particularly like sprinkling it
ontoast with butter and honey. Yummy!
You trim leaves 10 cm long from the main and 8 cm longfrom the side shoots to get flower sites to proliferate, right? What todo with 'useless' leaf while waiting for females to bloom?
To make Truffles: Melt chocolate in double boiler, and gradually add in the butter. Add sugar and cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar is dissolved. Remove from heat and allow to cool as muchas possible without letting it harden. Take about one to two tablespoonsof the hot chocolate mixture and stir into the egg yolks to warm them beforeadding to the rest of the chocolate mixture, then stir in. Add almondsand mix well. Stir in liqueur. Allow this to cool and then put in the refrigeratorto harden. When it firms up. use a spoon (I use a melon baller) to scoopup enough to make a ball about one and a half inches in diameter. Rollthe ball in your palms. to form a ball. Then roll the ball into the chocolatedecorates or almonds or whatever. Place in little paper cups for presentation.
Tips: To make superfine granulated sugar ( if youdon't want to buy it) place regular sugar in a blender and whiz it- butnot too much or you'll end up with powered sugar.
Also, I try to make several flavored batches at a timeand "match" the stuff I roll them in with the type of flavored liqueur.For example, with the Gran Marnier I use the choc. decorates; with Frangelico,almonds, and Kahlua, powdered cocoa sweetened with powdered sugar. I amsure there are a zillion combinations.
These make perfect holiday gifts for those 'special'
friends.The Truffles freeze very well for storage.
Slowly add brown sugar, making sure that the stove isonly on low heat. Don't strain the butter, as the sugar caramelizes aroundthe pot.
When the sugar is completely dissolved, and is going toa toffee type texture, take off heat and allow to cool for a moment, butmake sure it stays liquid. If you want some variety, then add some icecream topping – I find that either Caramel, Strawberry or Blueberry workbest.
Prepare the popcorn in the usual manner.
Pour the caramel mixture over the popcorn, and put itin the fridge for a while, until the caramel has hardened.
Eat while watching movies, it should hit hard right inthe
middle. Be careful if you have made it strong, once when I made thiswith a few
friends, I put about 1/4 oz of bud in and the night ended upwith most of the
people curled up into little balls, shivering and generallyfreaking out.
Unless you enjoy that type of thing, of course.
melt chocolate (either in microwave or in double
boiler).Using a rubber spatula put chocolate in with custard and mix well.
Usinga rubber spatula fold pre whipped cream into the above mixture. Put
allinto a plastic container cover and freeze, if in freezer for a long timeset
out at room temperature for 2-3 mins. Serve 3 scoops on small dessertplate and
top with chocolate shavings.
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan an
bring to a boil over medium heat. Place
in a refrigerator for two to three
hours, reheat, and serve.
Mix together in a casserole, cover top
with pineapple and bacon, bake at 350
degrees for about 45 minutes. Serves
about six.
Mix it up and shape into meatballs.
Brown in frying pan and drain. Place in
a casserole with soup and 1/2 cup water,
cover and cook over low heat for about
30 minutes. Feeds about four people.
Mix in a large pot, cover and shimmer
with frequent stirring for two hours.
Serve over spaghetti.
Mix all ingredients and shape into a
loaf. Bake for one hour in 400 degree
oven. Serves about six.
Soak beans overnight in water. In a
large pot pour boiling water over beans
and simmer for at least an hour, adding
more water to keep beans covered. Now
add all other ingredients and continue
to simmer for another three hours. Salt
to taste. Serves about ten.
Powder the marijuana in a blender, then mix
it with sugar and water. Stuff cores
with this paste. Sprinkle apples with
cinnamon, and top with a cherry. Bake
for 25 minutes at 350 degrees.
Sift flour, baking powder, and salt
together. Mix shortening, sugar, honey,
syrup, and egg. Then blend in chocolate
and other ingredients, mix well. Spread
in an eight inch pan and bake for 20
minutes at 350 degrees.
Mix the shortening and sugar, beat eggs,
and add to mixture. Separately mix
bananas with lemon juice and add to the
first mixture. Sift flour, salt, and
baking powder together, then mix all
ingredients together. Bake for 1 1/4
hours at 375 degrees.
Toasts you can try. Pick a
medium sized leaf off the marijuana
plant and dip it into a cup of drawn
butter, add salt, and eat.
lace skillet over low flame
and add 1 tablespoon of salt butter.
Allow it to cook. When cool, roll
mixture into little balls and dip them
into the sesame seeds.
It seems a bit labor intensive, but then it is meant asan
offering to Shiva.
Take the ganja and heat it in butter over moderate
flame.Cook the
butter in a double-boiler pot, making sure you heat itfor at least 20
minutes, making sure not to burn the butter. Strain outthe leaf and
set the butter aside. Cook your linguine, but not toolong. Pour your
butter into another pan and add pepper, garlic and mushrooms,and
sauté them a couple of minutes. Then drain thelinguine and add to
the sauté mixture. Pour in the cream and let itslowly reduce. The
cream slowly thickens over a low flame. When it boilsoff the
bottom of the pan, you are ready to eat.
1 1/2 cups shrimp
1 cup white vinegar
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup fresh basil (finely chopped)
1/3 oz. fine ganja leaves
1 stick butter or margarine
2 tsp thyme
2 tsp oregano
3 large baking potatoes
1 cup flour
1 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp paprika
1 yellow onion (finely chopped)
3 cloves of garlic (finely chopped)
4 tsp good olive oil
Leave shrimp in shells and marinate them for two hoursin the
white vinegar mixed with basil, thyme and oregano. Meanwhile,
melt the butter or margarine in a double boiler and addthe ganja.
Heat for 20 minutes, making sure not to burn the butter.Quarter
the potatoes into thick wedges. Place flour, pepper andpaprika into
a paper bag. Wet the potato wedges with water and tossthem in
the flour and spices until they're coated. Fry the potatoesuntil
golden brown and set aside. Then sauté the onionand garlic in the
olive oil and toss in the shrimp for a couple of minutes,until they're
tender. Dip the shrimp in a dish of warm puna butterand you sail
with Santa RA.
To prepare Chef rare breeds's Puna Butter, melt the butter or
margarine in a double boiler and add the ganja, cookingover
a moderate flame for 20 minutes. (Don't burn the butter!)
Strain out the plant matter and set aside. For the toastie,
place slices of cheese, then avocado, on a piece of bread.
Sprinkle with hemp seeds and basil. For extra variety,add
tomato slices and sprouts or sun-dried tomatoes, andgarlic.
Top with another slice of bread. Then drop a tablespoonof
Puna Butter into a frying pan and grill the toastie onboth
sides, using low heat. Grill with as much butter as youcan
without burning the bread, covering the pan to melt the
cheese. Get TOASTED, baby!
PIPES -----
A pipe is a simple device to smoke ganja. It (and any other devices working under the same principal) doesn't require you to chop up the weed, as with joints, and you get the added bonus of resin accumulation in the bowl. A pipe is essentially a mouthpiece, a bowl with a screen for the dope, and a pipe connecting the two together. You put the dope into the bowl, light it, and suck from the mouthpiece. Standard tobacco pipes work fine if you add a screen, and screened corn cob pipes work well, as the resin soaks into the cob (which can later be chopped up and smoked), just make sure it's screened and fairly heat resistant. Some pipes have a heating element (usually a car cigarette lighter element) that heats the dope up to sub-flammable temperatures and releases all of the cannaboids without destroying any, as direct flame tends to do. These are called tilt or vaporizor pipes (or bongs, if an element is built into one), and I've yet to rig up a reliable one. If you can make a metal pipe, you can drop some dope onto a heated up cigarette lighter and draw, or drop some on and collect the smoke in a 2-litre bottle with the bottom cut off and inhale from the top (similar to hot knives, below). I don't use many pipes these days, except for convenience. The most portable type of smoking instrument, you can make them pretty much out of anything. Coke cans, copper piping, tobacco pipes... I've even made a pipe out of a cigarette package (in a pinch). Coke cans make great temporary pipes, just indent it on the side, puncture some small holes in it and smoke from the spout. Punch a carb (an air hole that you keep covered while hooting and uncover to clear the chamber at the end of your toke) in the side if you wish. A rubber hose with a copper bowl stuck on the end works quite nicely. Carve them out of wood or soapstone. Make them out of clay or ceramics. The only things you need are a hole w/screen to put your bud in and a mouthpiece on the other end. A stash pipe is a pipe with a small amount of ganja held in the stem of the instrument. Whenever bud is smoked in the bowl, the ganja in the stem is bathed in smoke and coated in resin. The longer you leave it in, the stronger it gets.
ONE-HITS -------- One-hits or dugouts are very portable instruments for people who only like to smoke a little at a time. It's a small metal tube with a cavity at one end and a mouthpiece on the other. You press the cavity into a small containter of cleaned, chopped grass to fill it and then it is lit like a cigarette and inhaled steadily until the grass is smoked. You only get one inhalation per filling, so it's called a one-hit. A dugout is a small container which has a space for some cleaned grass and another space for the one-hit itself. A good design that I use often is a simple 3/8" pipe, about two inches long, with a cigar filter stuck on the end, and a small screen pushed down at the front about a 1/4". It's very portable, and in a bad situation, I've passed it off as a cigarette holder.
GAS PIPES --------- A gas pipe is essentially a regular pipe with a large chamber. The standard design is a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off and a small bowl mounted perpendicular to the bottle in the side. You cover the bottom with your hand, light the bud and suck, which fills the chamber. Then you uncover the end of the bottle to rush all the smoke in your lungs.
BONGS ----- Water bongs, also known as water pipes (esp. in head shops), are, IMHO, the most enjoyable, comfortable and easy way to smoke. The bong is essentially a sealed chamber half-full of water. A pipe with a bowl on the end goes into the chamber and the water, another pipe with a mouthpiece on the end that enters the chamber but stays above the water level. You put bud in the bowl, apply a flame to it and suck on the mouthpiece. This will lower the air pressure in the chamber, causing air to travel from the bowl, through the water, into the chamber and into your lungs, pulling the smoke with it. The water cools the smoke, as well as filtering quite a few carcinogens from it, and you usually get a couple of tokes because the chamber fills with smoke. You can build a carb into the bong to drain the chamber, or leave it without (some prefer this, as it's a less immediate way than a carb to drain the chamber if you just keep sucking on the hose)I used surgical tubing for the mouthpiece and one of the aforementioned toilet tubes for the bowl and pipes (I cut a piece about two inches off and stuck it through the lid for the shorter tube, put the tubing over that). The carb could be placed in the lid if you wish (mine is carbless).
Coke bottle bong ---------------- This is a simple design, but the most efficient bong I've found. Take a 1-litre plastic bottle and put two holes in it, one about halfway down the bottle and the other on the opposite side about an inch up from the bottom. Take a pipe & bowl (toilet tube is perfect, once again) and insert it in the lower hole. Hold the pipe up at about a 60 degree angle so that the bottom of the pipe is almost at the bottom of the bottle and the bowl is sticking up as much as possible, and seal/glue it in place (I use hot glue for this one and change the bottle about every month, scraping out the old one for resin, keeping the toilet tube). Fill the bottle up with water to about halfway between the two holes. You hold the bottle straight up so that the bowl is pointing up and away from you. The hole halfway up on the back is your carb, and suck from the mouthpiece of the bottle. You can also make it out of smaller bottles for more portability, or link two or more bottles together, or use bigger bottles for a larger chamber... experiment.
Triple Chamber Mason jar
------------------------ This is a design that has worked quite well for me as well. The design is the same as the mason jar bong above, but there are three jars used. Three wide-mouth mason jars of different sizes are needed. The second largest jar comes first. Mount the bowl and pipe as above, except instead of the mouth piece going into your mouth, use a 1/2" diameter piece of rubbing tubing and put it into the largest jar, below the water level. Then another half-inch piece from above the water level of the largest jar into the smallest, below water level, and finally a mouthpiece from above the water level of the smallest. When you suck on the tube of the smallest, it lowers the air pressure in the jar, and it sucks air from the largest chamber. The air pressure in the largest goes down, so it sucks from the chamber of the second-largest jar, which then sucks the smoke down from the bowl on that one. This is kind of the chain: Mouth hose (3/8" rubber) - chamber on smallest - 1/2" rubber hose below water level on smallest - chamber of largest - below water level of largest - chamber of second largest - 3/8" pipe below water level of second largest - bowl & ganja. That's as clear as I can make the design... it gives a surprising amount of suction and absolutely huge tokes. You can work out some kind of carburation system for it, but it seems to me that carbs are rather pointless with this design. Make sure all seals between lids of jars and the hoses are airtight - one small hole will stop it from working. If you get the basic principle behind bongs, there's no telling what you can do.
GRAVITY BONGS ------------- Also known as bucket bongs, beach bongs, and depth charges, this is essentially a device that uses gravity and air pressure to draw the smoke into a large chamber and then expel it quickly into the lungs. This gives much larger hits than most instruments, and it is possible to get quite fried quickly with a relatively small amount of weed. The most popular method is to take a 2-litre and a 3-litre bottle. Cut the top off the 3-litre at the point where it starts to curve into the neck, and the bottom off the 2-litre. Attach a bowl to the top of the 2-litre (or, preferably, attach one to the lid so it can be taken off). Fill the 3-litre up with water. Place the 2-litre into the 3-litre and attach the filled bowl to the top. Then light the bud as you slowly draw the 2-litre up. This will create a vacumn in the 2-litre bottle and suck the smoke down into the chamber. Once you get near the top, quickly remove the bowl, expel all the air out of your lungs, put your lips over the top of the bottle and push it back down quickly. This will force all the smoke into your lungs quickly. You can experiment a little bit with this design, using different sized containers and such, but the model above works as well as any other I've tried. It's easy to use it in a kitchen sink filled with water as well. Another popular method is to just put a small hole in the lid instead of a bowl and placing a lit joint in the hole. Draw the bottle up, and it's possible to get an entire joint into the bottle to be taken in your lungs at once.
WATERFALLS ---------- This is essentially a variant on the gravity. You take a bottle (I use a 2-litre) and drill a small hole (about 3/8") in the bottom, at the lowest point. Cover this hole with your finger and fill the bottle up. Then, attach a filled bowl to the top (I use the same Coke-bottle lid as the gravity) and light the dope. Uncover the hole out the bottom, and as the water drains out, the smoke will be drawn in. Keep the bowl lit and let the water drain out, and by the time you're done you have a 2-litre bottle full of concentrated smoke. Just suck from the top and uncover the hole at the bottom to hoot. This is also an extremely efficient design, as very little smoke can escape. HOT KNIVES ---------- Knives are a rather complex method of smoking dope, but also a very powerful and efficient method. Although it sounds simple, it can be difficult to do them successfully (especially if you're already cooked). All you need are a couple of knives (with wood handles, preferably), something to heat them with (a propane torch works best), a plastic bottle with the bottom cut off, a moderately heat-resistant plate (I use a light switch plate), and of course, weed. You heat the knives to the point where they're glowing red. Then you put the bottle in your mouth, take one of the hot knives, touch it to a SMALL bud on the plate so that it sticks to the knife, and then use the other one to sandwich the bud between the two knives underneath the bottle in your mouth. Plumes of smoke will come up into the bottle, which you then draw into your lungs. This can hurt your throat like hell, but it works beautifully. It's also the most popular way to do hash, and a reasonably good way to smoke hash oil.
GLASSES ------- This is a really entertaining way to smoke dope, and also a pretty good party trick. =) First, take a nice-sized glass mug or jar, run it under the faucet, and put it into the freezer for about twenty minutes. Light a joint and put it into a holder (a Bic pen with the innards removed works well) until only the burning cherry and about another 1/4" of the joint are sticking out. Then take the burning end and CAREFULLY put it into your mouth. Take the jar out of the freezer, stick the end of the Bic pen (the end you'd be dragging on if using the pen like a cigarette holder) near the bottom of the jar, and blow. The cold jar keeps the smoke from escaping, and you can fill the jar to the top (it's possible to get the entire joint in). Then take the jar, put it to your lips, and inhale it into your lungs by tipping it into your mouth just as you would a drink. The smoke will be so cold you can barely feel it going down. It's complicated to do correctly, and takes some practice, but it's probably one of my favorite methods.
EATING ------ You can eat dope if you heat it first to activate the cannaboids, which are also fat and alcohol soluble. This is much more efficient than smoking it, as none is wasted, and it gives a longer stone. Also, it eliminates the carcinogenic effects of smoking it. The most popular method is to sautee some ganja in some butter on medium heat for awhile, and then using the butter to cook. You can make anything out of it... cookies, cakes, spread it on bread, cook vegetables, and, of course, brownies. Standard ratio is one eighth of an ounce of ganja to a stick of butter.
DRINKING -------- It is also possible to extract the active ingredients from dope by soaking them in a strong alcohol. The cannaboids are alcohol soluble, so they dissolve into the alcohol. The remaining solids can then be strained out and the mixture drunk, with the same effects as eating it. The standard method is to take a bottle of 190 proof grain alcohol and put it in a pot on an ELECTRIC stove. Heat it to sub-boiling and then add ganja (standard ratio: 1/2 gram per ounce of liquor). Let it sit at sub-boiling for 20 minutes or so and then drain it out. This produces a green-tinted alcohol known as "Green Dragon", which can be drunk straight (painful) or put in a drink. A popular drink using Green Dragon is 1 oz. Green Dragon and lemon lime soda served over ice with a dollop of honey.
IN CONCLUSION
As you can see, bong construction can be extremely creative. I'm going to include the plans to one last bong: my masterpiece, the Kong Bong. =)
Take a 20 liter plastic water cooler jug. Drill four 3/8" holes around to the top, put in four 3/8" hoses a couple feet long and seal them. These are your mouthpieces. Then find a bowl. For the bowl on mine, I use one of those large spark plug sockets. Drill a hole in the lid of the bottle and insert the bowl. Seal it with silicone or something similarly heat-resistant. Then, on the bottom of the cap, affix a rubber hose over the bottom of the bowl and seal it in place. This is your main bowl w/hose. Now drill a 1" hole in the side of the bottle right at the bottom, and put in some kind of plug or pipe with a removable water-tight cap. Fill the bong half-full of water and put the lid on the top. You now have a bong with a 10 liter chamber and a bowl that can hold as much as an eighth of an ounce of ganja that four people can suck on at once. A propane torch or similar heavy-duty flame is recommended for lighting the bowl, as the bowl is too big for a lighter flame. Once we're all nicely cooked, I usually re-stuff the bowl and hold a flame to it while I uncap the hole near the bottom and plug the toke hoses. This drains all the water out, and as it drains, it serves as a waterfall as well, fully filling up the 20-litre bottle (with the pipe & hose, the waterfall smoke is bubbled through the draining water) with smoke. Any hoses that aren't being used to toke should be plugged (as well, cover the end with your thumb while exhaling or resting) or there won't be any suction. Or unplug a couple hoses and they'll serve as a carb to drain the chamber. The ultimate party bong. --- There will be periodic updates to the FAQ when I discover new methods and designs. My thanks to all those who sent in designs, and whoever sent messages a year ago on the net detailing some of the basics to get me started. Good luck, and happy smoking.
Outdoor Growing
SIMPLE STEPS FOR OUTDOOR GROWERS About the Authors We have been outdoor growers since 1980 and have had relatively small yearly harvests every year since l983. We have grown Indica and Sativa strains and also hybrids (mixing the two together). Our horticulture has taken place largely in fields in New York and New Jersey. The goal of this paper is to allow others to produce their own, and to reduce the amount of marijuana traded on the street. As more individuals become divorced from having to sell and purchase fine erb, then we as consumers will become self- sufficient and will also be able to minimize the risk of being caught. Unfortunately, the ignorant powers that be continue to persecute marijuana smokers for political reasons. We should take responsibility for our habits and grow for our own consumption thereby eliminating the "buy and sell game". Although the marijuana trade is not known for attracting ruthless people, it none the less is a "black market" activity that many wish to avoid. Some people may read this paper with the hope that they can grow acres of reefer that will bring them riches. Unfortunately the gold rush as it pertains to weed has come and gone. The police confiscate patches of pot annually through the use of aerial infrared photography, and large plots are spotted much more frequently than small plots. This guide is not designed to be the erb growers bible, but to provide easy steps on how to cultivate small amounts of marijuana for personal consumption. There are people who know more about growing weed than we do, but the marijuana growing literature still lacks a brief explanation of how to produce outdoor kind bud in easy steps. Our hope is that this paper can serve that purpose. We want to thank the many people who helped us acquire skill in this realm (our assumption is that they want to remain anonymous). Any error or omission is our doing and we take full responsibility. All rights of this publication are not reserved. Anyone may duplicate this document in full or part. Please distribute liberally! ------------------------------------------------------------------ Table of Contents Acquiring Good Seeds Finding a Site Making a Trail The Mechanics of Growing a. Preparing the Soil b. Planting c. Weeding d. Removing Males e. The Fungus f. Emergency Visits The Harvest When to Harvest Acquiring Good Seeds Quality seed strains are often difficult to obtain. This is especially true for people who hang in a predominantly straight crowd and know few people who partake in the fine erb. The rule of thumb is if the weed gets you pretty high then the seed is usually good to grow. Seeds coming from green bud are often better to grow because the strain is frequently acclimated to the growing season of northern latitudes. Jamaican and Colombian varieties can not be easily produced in northern latitudes because the strains produce bud too late in the season. The results of growing these varieties in most of the U.S. will be little or no bud growth before the first frost hits. Sativa strains usually grow taller than the indica or indica-sativa hybrids. This can be a major drawback especially in the fall when other plants are dying off and trees are losing leaves. Some growers have success crossing sativa varieties from southern climates with Indica, and creating an offspring that will bud more timely. When at parties, concerts, or other social events, keep an eye out for people breaking up bud and discarding seeds. The best time to look for seeds is from October to January because this is when most of the locally grown outdoor erb hits the market. Acquiring and maintaining a quality seed stock is the most fundamental task of a successful grower. Finding a Site Aside from acquiring good seed, picking a prime location to grow is probably the most important task a grower is faced with. One of the best locations is in areas of grasslands that have small trees and bushes interspersed. Often a farmers field that has been out of production for ten years is ideal. Flood plains along rivers and streams are another good location, but the risk of losing seeds in the Spring or the harvest in the Fall due to flooding should be considered. Growers have also been known to plant in buckets in more rocky or mountainous terrain. This enables them to grow in areas that receive good sunlight but have rocky, untillable soil. Digging a site in areas of dense but short plant growth, like sticker bushes, is another suitable spot. The sticker bushes grow high enough to prevent people from seeing through them and also serve as a direct deterrence from people and large animals wandering into the site. A grower can often use animal and insect life to his advantage. Bees, tics, green flies and the like can discourage people from wandering through fields so areas having an abundant insect population are prime locations. The most important criteria for an excellent growing site are good soil, available water, sunlight, and suitable cover. Other factors are secondary. Good soil is sometimes hard to find but without it you won't get much of a harvest. So, if you find a site that is perfect for all other factors but has poor soil , you may want to consider bringing soil to the site. Soil is often the richest in areas where grassland vegetation has existed for a series of years. Grasslands recycle nutrients in the soil and form a thick layer of organic matter. Grassland biospheres require very little preparation to start growing, while other soil conditions require more work. Sandy soils often need potting soil or top soil along with a small amount of lime to make them more fertile. Soils with high amounts of clay need material, like peat moss, added to break up the clay and make the soil more porous. I'm a naturalist and disagree with some erb growing professionals who believe that planting along road sides can be productive. The lead and other toxic chemicals found in some of these soils is enough to discourage many vegetable growers from producing consumable or smokable plant material. If you live in a city, and lack your own means of transportation then use roadsides as your last resort. A close water source is also very important. A site close to the water table would be ideal since bringing water into the site can get tiresome and also dangerous. It can get very tiresome if you have many sites or even a few big sites. If you choose a site much higher than the water table or grow in buckets, you will quickly find that the amount of water needed during a dry summer will be enormous and will give you great incentive to find a site closer to the water table. The dangers in having to bring water to the sites are numerous. The greatest of these would be the chance of someone spotting you, possibly a cop. The second greatest would be the destruction of the foliage you have to walk through to get from the water source to the site. If you have to make more than one trip you run a big risk that a trail will become noticeable. Finding a stable water source in the summer can be another obstacle since small streams often dry up at this time. How often you will need to water is determined by the weather and that could require you to make unexpected trips to the sites. Each trip puts you at risk. Your goal is to minimize these trips. Sunlight is less important than the previous two components but is still essential. Plants should be in areas that receive at least five hours of direct sunlight per day. Morning sunlight is preferable since plants tend to respond better to it than to the afternoon sunlight. Growers who scout sites during the winter months must be able to visualize how the landscape will be shaded by trees, and the path the sun will take come Spring. Of course, the greater the amount of sunlight the better, but when choosing a site sunlight is just one of many factors that must be considered. The last criteria has nothing to do with plant biology, but rather focuses on minimizing the threat of unwanted attention from people wandering by. The cover should be both tall enough to keep people from spotting it and thick enough to discourage them from wandering too close to it. The best foliage to accomplish this is a large patch of big sticker bushes. If that's not available, look for foliage that grows to a height of six to eight feet by the fall and is far enough away from where someone might stray. The Ability to hide plants amongst the flora in fields is an art and skill improved upon through practice. One favorite technique is to hide plants on the south side of bushes so that passers by will have difficulty spotting the plant(s). Plants still get adequate light in spite of the appearance of being crowded by the larger bush. The best hiding spot for erb is where people have their view blocked from all sides and has the appearance of being impenetrable. In areas where the vegetation growth is less than three feet the erb may need to be trimmed back or tied to the ground in order to create smaller bushier plants. Fields with small vegetation growth may have poor soil or can be dry upland environments where the soil frequently becomes too dry so use caution. Making erb junior blend in with the other plants in the field will minimize risk. In order to grow plants efficiently, an outdoor grower must use the natural landscape to his or her advantage. Making a Trail One of the ways to ensure success is by creating trails that are not visible to passers by. This is easier in some places than in others. Areas having dense undergrowth with lots of sunlight can be ideal because plant growth is so rapid it will erase any damage to the vegetation between trips during the Spring and Summer. If you are growing plants in areas easy to spot trails then make the path weave back and forth so it becomes difficult for people to see a trail. Making a hidden trail to the site(s) is important because it allows the grower to minimize getting ripped off or worse, caught. People wander through undeveloped areas and follow trails to nowhere all the time. Their access can be limited through thoughtful planning of pathways and proper care in using them. When you walk through your entrance, do everything possible not to damage any of the foliage, especially toward the late Summer and early Fall. At this time of the year, damaged foliage usually will not regrow and this is when the plants need as much cover as possible. There are two things to keep in mind when making a trail to your site(s): 1) Can you see the trail you just made, if not that's great, if so look for ways to cover areas that look like a trail; 2) The more difficult it is for you to get to the site, the less likely someone else will try. The Mechanics of Growing Your cousin Louie and his friend Sam are in town from Oklahoma and they have smoked a lot of grass and grown some in their backyards. Sam has a good rap, and appears knowledgeable about fine erb. Taking these two gentlemen for a walk in the fields might appear to be a good idea. Shit, they could offer some insightful pointers. I must caution against these excursions. Even if these men are the erb experts they appear, taking a walk with them may not be in your best interest. They are unfamiliar with the area and may not know where to run if the need arises. Walking with more than two people through a field can attract attention (the greater the number of people, the greater chance of being seen). The more people walking on a trail the larger the trail becomes and thus the greater the chance your trail can be followed by others. Every time you visit the site(s) you are putting the harvest and for that matter yourself at risk. This may be a small or large risk depending on the particular place but remember that no place is 100% safe. Unless it is an emergency situation where the buggy fly has infested your crop, and you are bringing in a specialist to offer expert advice, the site(s) should not be visited by strangers. Having a growing partner is recommended regardless of his or her competence, and even then the site(s) should only be visited to accomplish specific tasks. Trips to the site should occur at the following times. 1. Preparing The Soil: (early March - Mid April depending on climate) I suggest buying 40lb. bags of organic potting soil and mixing this in with the existing soil. This soil is not often found at your local all-purpose store so some searching may be required. Potting soil is richer soil than commercial top soil so it goes a little bit farther when mixed with the existing soil. Lime may be necessary in areas with acidic soil and peat moss is a good additive for soils with a clay type consistency. I avoid chemical fertilizers, not just because I believe that organic farming is the best way, but also because toxic waste is produced from the manufacture of fertilizers. It's also a good idea to put up a two foot high fence at this time. This will keep small animals out and the use of dried blood and/or human hair will fend off deer. Purchase a wire fence with small gaps, 2 inches or less between the metal strands. Collect enough sticks in the area to provide stakes that will support the fence about every 2 feet. Outline the site with the sticks and tie the fence to the sticks with string or wire. Cut the fence endstrand and bend the strands that protrude from the top of the fence out and down the outside to discourage animals from trying to jump over it. Camouflage the fence and site with normal ground debris as necessary before leaving. 2. Planting: (early April - early May) There are different ways to go about planting: A) The seed intensive method: This method should only be used if you have an abundance of seeds. The seed intensive method entails planting many seeds in a small area. Its strength is that it can limit risk. When you journey to your newly prepared site(s), the seeds and trowels are hidden in your pockets. Plant the seeds about one half inch deep, unless the soil contains high amounts of clay then only plant seeds one quarter inch in the soil. If you setup small sites 3ft x 3ft square, put in three rows with a seed every one and a half inches. If you work out the Math this is roughly 72 seeds per site. Unfortunately, many growers, especially beginners, do not posses this many good seeds. If a grower creates four sites with this many seeds he or she is almost guaranteed a harvest. Yes, there will be some crowding and this is one of the drawbacks of using many seeds in a small area. Also, figure around 50% of the plants are going to be male so you must return to the site to cut out the males toward the end of Summer. Once the males are removed from the site, the females get more light and aren't as crowded. The seed intensive strategy tends to produce smaller plants because of crowding, but at the same time it helps ensure a harvest every season. In the present day of infrared photography, I believe it is important to have small sites to avoid detection from the air. This of course means growers may have to create a series of small plots in order to garner a year's supply of erb. If you grow merely for hobby, sport, or experimental purposes, than one site may suit you fine. B) Planting small seedlings: The strongest argument for this method of planting is that you get the opportunity to select for planting the strongest of the seedlings you've started. The strongest argument against this method is the risk of transporting the seedlings to their intended site(s). Transporting them requires you to find a method of concealing them, usually a box. The problem that then arises is that the size box needed to transport many plants may make this method too risky or totally impractical. The other concern with this method is that there is also the risk of shocking the seedlings when you put them outside in the site where they will be exposed to the harsh Spring weather. Before planting seedlings or sexed females they should be put outside and closely monitored at least three days before planting to become acclimated to the wind and change in temperature. This method works best when you can set up a small shelter near your sites that is enclosed but not insulated. This shelter can be as small as the site and 18 inches tall or big enough to walk in, providing you have a safe location for such a structure. Starting seeds in this shelter gives the benefit of acclimating seedlings to a temperature much closer to that which they will face when they are planted in the site and it will also protect them from any late Spring snows and/or frosts. C) Planting sexed females: The advantage of planting sexed females is obvious; every plant will produce buds. The sex of plants can be determined by growing them until they're four inches high, and then decreasing the amount of light they receive to eight hours. The males are then identified and removed in one to two weeks. This method requires being able to control the amount of light the plants receive each day, and also requires that plants be started indoors earlier than you would normally start (late February - early March). This method allows growers to spread their plants across a wide area in smaller sites and also to hide plants amongst small trees and shrubs. By spreading two dozen female plants throughout a ten acre area in individual sites, a harvest is almost guaranteed, providing that you remember where all the sites are. Growers are encouraged to create a map of their sites to insure against memory loss. Just remember to guard that map closely. Putting anything about your operations in writing puts you at risk. 3. Weeding: Three weeks after the plants or seeds are in the ground return to remove weeds that are crowding out the kind erb. Three weeks after the first weeding a second weeding should take place. A third weeding is optional, by this time the plants should be large enough to compete with the weeds, however, if you are in a site that has strong weeds around it you may have to cut the weeds back at additional times throughout the year. Remember, weeding does not mean destroying all vegetation within three feet of a plant. Weeds can help hide your crop and protect your crop from hungry animals. Nearby vegetation can also help keep water in the soil from evaporating in the hot sun. So don't go overboard and be very careful, it's very easy to accidently injure small plants or their roots trying to get rid of weeds. 4. Removing Males: (If you are growing sexed females these trips can be omitted) Male plants will begin to produce their flowers and pollen as early as mid July for varieties acclimated to this climate. Varieties from more southern climates, may not start until mid September. This difference depends on the budding cycle of your variety, some plants start to bud earlier than others, so the exact time to cut the males will vary with the strain. If you are using a variety of different seeds it may be necessary to visit once a week from July 21 through September 15. The timely identification of a male plant is crucial to the success of the harvest. If the weather is exceptional during the time a male starts producing its flowers and you missed seeing the first signs during your last visit, you could wind up with a lot of seeds and little of the fine erb. A female can either generate a large seedless bud, a large bud with a few seeds, or a large bud that is almost totally seeds. The first case is achieved by removing all the male plants before any of their flowers open. The second case occurs when a few male flowers have opened but you remove them before any more open. The third case occurs when you miss-time the flowering of the male. This can be devastating if you have big female plants because you could loose 90% of the smokable erb to seed production. This last scenario may not always be bad though. If you are short on seeds for the next growing season, it may be prudent to let one or two males stand and fertilize a portion of the females. Good seeds are hard to come by, so if you have a strain you like, make sure to plan ahead and have at least a few hundred seeds for the future. The spotting of males is one of the most difficult of things to explain to a person that's never grown since it really takes careful attention to how the tops of male plants look at this stage of development. Even experienced growers will be unsure at times and will have to wait till the next visit to be sure. When a male enters the stage of flower development, the tips of the branches where a bud would develop will start to grow what looks like a little bud but it will have no white hairs coming out of it. 5. The Fungus: Along with cops, thieves, animals, and insects, "the fungus" is another obstacle in the path of a successful growing season. When the buds are roughly half developed they become susceptible to a fungus or bud rot. It appears that growing conditions for the fungus are best when temperatures are between 60 and 80 degrees and the humidity is high. The fungus is very destructive and spreads quickly. It is a spore type of fungus that travels to other buds via the wind so it is impossible to prevent or stop if weather conditions permit it to grow. If things should go badly and the fungus starts to attack your plants, you must remove it immediately or it will spread to other areas of the plant or plants. Some growers will remove just the section of the bud that is infected whereas other growers will remove the entire branch. Removal of the entire branch better insures that the fungus is totally removed, and also enables the grower to sample the crop a few weeks ahead of time. The main point in removing the fungus is to be very careful. Since it is a spore type of fungus, the accidental jerking of an infected bud will release some of the spores and they could fall onto a lower bud so by the next visit, you might have to pull that bud too. Also be careful in touching the fungus with your fingers because your fingers could pick up the spores and then when you touch the next bud, the spores could cling to it and start eating away at that bud. 6. Emergency Visits: The Real Estate and Construction Industries have conspired to develop housing near your crop and their "progress" must be monitored. A hurricane or tropical storm with winds over 50 miles per hour has visited your area. A drought takes place. etc. One of the drawbacks of growing outdoors is that you can not control for interference by outside forces. Emergency visits may be necessary but don't go crazy every time there's a bad storm. These plants are strong and can take some punishment. The Harvest Performed at night if possible. A nighttime run will limit the chances of someone seeing you. Do the most risky parts, such as carrying freshly cut erb where you could easily be spotted by a passing car, when the police jurisdiction changes shift. This can help ensure that officials do not spot you, and if a nosey nearby resident or passerby calls the police, it may take time before a car is dispatched to investigate. If harvesting at night, use flashlights sparingly so as not to attract attention, and bring extra batteries just in case(the rechargeable kind are recommended). When harvesting more than a couple of plants remember a small pocket knife because it makes the night move quicker. Unless you are planning to use the large fan leaves for cooking, remove them in the field so they don't take up a lot of space. If you have more than one variety of erb that you are harvesting bring various bags to put the different strains of buds in, and I would suggest using backpacks for travel to avoid suspicion and for easy handling. When to Harvest The time to harvest depends on several factors: bud development, weather, fungus, and thieves. Some pot strains mature earlier in the fall than others, depending on the latitude of the globe where the strain originated. You will need to pull Indica varieties in late September and Columbian varieties in late October. The weather may also force you to pull early. If there is a severe freeze heading your way, you are better off not chancing that the weathermen are wrong and pull at least a majority of what you have. Another case for pulling early is if weather conditions are perfect for the fungus to run wild. This will also force you to pull early. And of course if your site has been found or is in great danger of being found, you must pull everything to avoid loosing out on what would otherwise have been a great year. For instance, if you have a site in a corn field or other temporary situation, the harvest must occur at a point in time relatively independent of weather. Also try to find out if and when hunters start to roam the fields. One other thing to watch for is frost. Even a mild frost can damage plants so watching the weather closely in late September and throughout October is important. If your plants do get damaged by frost the erb is still harvestable so don't give up entirely if you fail to chop before the first frost. If by some freak chance there is a frost in early September and the buds are still very small you may want to allow the damage to occur and then let the buds finish maturing rather than harvesting a small quantity of premature buddage. This type of situation is an on the spot call and you must consider many factors, such as bud size, weather predictions for the following weeks, strain of weed, location of site, etc., before deciding. Indica varieties usually mature sooner than sativa varieties, and the best time to harvest varieties acclimated to the Northeast is from late September to mid October. Those varieties not acclimated to the Northeast, such as Columbian or Jamaican, are best left to late October or even mid November if the weather permits. One other thing you want to avoid is harvesting in the rain. Moisture can lead to problems in the drying process such as molds and fungi. The dryer the plants at the harvest date the better. As mentioned before, it is important to acquire seeds from strains that can be grown at the latitude you are at, some Mexican or Colombian varieties may not develop mature buds until November and by then the weather becomes harsh. Knowing when your plants will mature is difficult for beginners or growers using new seeds for the first season. Planning and getting to a good drying location quickly is important so the buddage is not left in bags for longer than a few hours. If the freshly harvested bud remains in bags for too long (12 hours or more), molds and fungus will begin to destroy the erb. Once you get to your drying location you need to prepare the erb for drying. This entails removing excess fan leaves and other larger leaves. However, if the drying spot has a temperature higher than 85 degrees it may be beneficial to leave a few large leaves to keep the buds from drying too quickly. Typical places to dry are attics, closets, dresser drawers, and basements. The best position for a bud to dry in is hanging upside down in a location where air can circulate all around it. If you are fortunate to have a location that you can do this in, great, otherwise use a dresser drawer or some other concealed place. If you dry the buds in dresser drawers remember not to double stack the buds or the weight of the upper layer of buds will cause a flat spot on the buds underneath. Also remember to rotate the buds every day so the erb dries uniformly and you can check for any signs of mold or fungus. If space permits and you are able to retrieve the whole plant, roots and all, you can hang them upside down by the roots, but don't expect this drying procedure to yield higher quality bud. THC does not drain from the roots down into the buds, the THC forms in the resin on the buds. The entire drying process should take place over four to six days depending on the size and variety of bud, the temperature, and the relative humidity of the drying area. If the buds are dried too quickly, the flavor of the erb will become more harsh and the THC level may not reach its potential. If the pot is dried too slowly then molds and fungi may develop and have a similar effect. With any method of drying, the process must be monitored on a day-to-day basis. Room temperature is fine for drying as long as the humidity is kept low. If drying must take place in a cool damp place then a fan and possibly a heater should be installed to compensate.Harvesting
*********************** When To Harvest ************************* Disclaimer: The author does not condone any illegal activity. The facts presented do not necessarily represent the opinion of the author. Mr.Brown -- 10/15/94. The question of when to harvest tenderly cared-for plants is a question that puzzles many new growers. Most farmers' goal is to pluck the fruit at the exact moment when the potency of the bud is at is peak. Realistically, the skills needed to detect the specific day (or even hour) when a plant is at its peak can only be acquired through years of experience. However, even the novice grower should be able detect the window of time during which the harvest results in premier crop of outstanding bud. 0) Maturity and THC Although some growers are interested in fiber content, most people consider the plant to be mature when the percentage of THC found in the plant reaches its maximum. It is not practical for the average grower to actually measure THC in a plant, as the chemistry is somewhat complex. In a growing plant, each successive pair of leaves contains more THC than the previous pair. The budding tips of the plant contain the most THC of all. Both male and female plants contain THC. In fact, some research has shown that in the early stages of growth the males actual ly contain more THC than the females (Frank and Rosenthal, Marijuana Grower's Guide, p. 66). Even conniseurs believe it is worth cutting and sampling shoots before the THC has reached its maximum. Clarke suggests that the best bioassy for pot is to roll joints of several different strains, invite all your friends over, and see which pile of joints disappears first (Marijuana Botany, p. 94) 1) Plant Size The size of the plant has little to do with its maturity. Outdoors, a plant might reach a height of over eight feet (2.5m) and still not be ready for harvest. Indoors, mature, budding plants can be under 18" (.5m) high. 2) Photoperiod - The Key to Maturation The chronological age of the plant has little to do with its maturity. How quickly a plant matures is mostly dependent on the amount of light the plant receives each day (photoperiod). Typically, a plant will transition from the growing (vegitative) stage to the budding stage when the light per day drops below 12 hours. This is not to say that a 3-week-old seedling will begin to bloom when the light is cut. As a general rule, a plant must be a minimum of 60 days old before it is mature enough to respo nd appropriately to decreased light. For indoor growers, the decision on when to cut the photoperiod depends on available growing space, as well as the need to harvest weed. Some growers report that clones (cuttings) can be forced to bloom prior to 60 days old, perhaps since the cutting itself is somewhat mature at the time it is rooted. 3) Male Versus Female Almost always, male flowers will show prior to female buds. Thus, once the males in the garden are detected, you can be sure that that the female budding process will start soon - usually within 1-2 weeks. 4) Different Varieties Many gardeners report that certain cannibis varieties take longer to mature than others. In particular, the narrow-leafed Sativas are said to take significantly longer to initiate and complete budding, as compared to the wide-leafed Indicas. Under some conditions, Sativas will require an additional month or more to mature after the Indicas have been harvested. 5) Time of Year Obviously, indoor growers cannot use the seasons as a guide to harvesting (though a cold winter-time grow room can significantly retard the growth of the plants). Outdoor growers on the other hand can use the seasons as a predictor of the ideal harvest t ime. In the Fall, once the length of day drops below 12 hours, the count-down to harvest will be begin. Weather conditons will affect the exact harvest day from year to year, but generally you can expect to harvest within the same two-week window each year. If you can avoid it, don't harvest during or immediately after a rainy spell. 6) Monitoring Buds The best way to tell if the plant is ready is to examine the bud. In the paragraphs below, the terms "pistal" and "stigma" refer to the white hairs in the center of the female bud. The term "calyx" refers to the pod that would surround the seed (were the plant to be fertilized). Many growers elect to pick each bud individually, as it reaches it prime. "Buds are at their peak potency about one week after flower formation slows...Harvest the plants when about half the stigmas in the buds have withered... When the plants are left in the ground, the resinous qualities of the plant may become more apparent. The bracts and tiny leaves may swell in size...The resin content of these buds may be higher, [but] the grass will smoke more harshly than if the buds were younger when picked." Frank and Rosenthal "Marijuana Growers Guide" pg 289, pg 295. "In the primordial calyxes the pistils have turned brown; however, all but the oldest of the flowers are fertile and the floral clusters are white...Many cultivators prefer to pick some of their strains during this stage in order to produce marijuana with a clear cerebral, psychoactive effect." Robert Connell Clarke "Marijuana Botany", pg 140. "Eventually the pistils start to turn color from pale white to red or brown...When the glands have swelled and the pistil has receded into the false pod, the bud is ready to pick." Ed Rosenthal, "The Closet Cultivator", pg 100. "At the peak of florescence, all but the oldest of flowers have white pistil development...Another indicator is bouquet. When a plant is at the peak of florescence, it has a sweet and musky fragrance. Later, it loses the sweetness." Kayo, "The Sinsemilla Technique", pg 125. "The best way to harvest is to examine the resin glands on each bud. As they turn from clear to amber, that is the optimum time to pick. Buds usually mature from the top down, if grown under artificial light, and you will end up with more high-quality p ot if you pick each bud when ready. However, the plant will not just continue to produces buds at the same rate. Like any other plant, the flowering cycle lasts a specific period of time. If you wanted a further harvest of buds, the plant would need a second cycle of vegetative growth. This can be achieved indoors by simply turning the lights back up to a 24 hour cycle for a few weeks. Outdoors though, you are dependent on the seasons. Frost and long nights will usually kill the plant. Of course, such a strategy is only variableif growing a few plants. If your operation runs on an industrial scale, just drive the combine harvester through the field." (-peter alt.hemp posting)
I stole all these from a french web site and had to edit them as they wrote on the pictures in french, but hey at least their not so bad, they have learnt to endulge in the fruits of nature !!!!!
Get some gum from another sheet.
Moisten half the gum. Apply a sheet to it and immediately un stick. Before it
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p.s. I stole " borrowed " most of this data
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on stuff when you can quite blatantly find it for free here as most of my stuff
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