Robbo's DIY Camcorder Controller
Latest: Paul Glock's simple variation....see bottom of page

I use a Canon XM2 (GL2) and occasionally 2 Sony Digital8 cameras, all mostly used from a fixed position on a tripod.

Typically it is controlled from in front of the camera with the standard Canon/Sony wireless Infra-red remote. (see image right).

Now for most of the time I can get away with this setup, but it is a bit of a pain, as the tripod is raised so that the camera is normally at about the 6 feet level (mostly for framing purposes)....thereby making control directly off the camera difficult.

I use an old (but gold) Commodore Amiga 1084S Monitor (RGB inputs...and cheap) as my master monitor and also for the Talent to check their own positioning, so the use of the LCD screen on the cameras is not a necessity.

I kept looking for a better alternative over time and was frustrated by the cost of the likes of the LANC controllers on the market....even the genuine Canon and Sony versions are not cheap and from aftermarket manufacturers such as Varizoom™ (try VARIZOOM™ in Google), their basic model comes in at $US199....and then go rapidly uphill from there.......sheeeesh....!

These guys produce a quality product....but so is my Canon Remote and I already own it...!

And from what I have read, not ALL LANC controllers are created equal....some of the functions don't or won't work...hmmmmmm
So you tend to ask yourself, can I warrant the expense, just for a little convenience, when the money may well be better spent on other accessories such as wide angle lens or even the deposit on an anamorphic...???????

BUT...as an habitual tinkerer, I as well as yourself are at this great DIY stabilizer web site because we like to think we can do it for ourselves....or maybe build a better mousetrap...whatever...!

One day the famous EUREKA syndrome kicked in when I was thinking about these damn controllers.........what if I tried the OPTICAL CABLE that runs from my DVD to my 5.1 amplifier...?...I mean it is only light we are trying to send through the cable...isn't it...?
So, I removed the cable from both units and dug out my venerable wireless controller (see above) and with the help of the Lady of the house (they are useful sometimes ;-)...) she held one end of the cable to the pickup on the Canon and I held the other end onto the IR sender on the remote......
(drum roll)...I then pressed the ZOOM buttons on the controller.....EUREKA, VOILA.....or YIPPEE..etc,etc..it worked.

Now I have EVERY control feature available to me that the REMOTE has.....whoa....ALL of THEM...!

YES...!!!! it worked VERY WELL..........so the old brain fired up and then the thinking began as to how to connect the Opto cable to either end BUT not in a permanent manner.....for obvious reasons.

Now I know this idea is going to cause a little heartburn with the commercial guys, but I work hard for my dollars and if there is a way to save money in my business....then so be it...!

OK...for the engineeringly challenged people (like me)..., just keep reading on, for the engineering capable people, the penny will have already dropped and you will be most likely trying this out right now...go to it...!!!!

I am presently building a new housing (cradle) that will support the controller......and of course its mounting for the tripod PAN/TILT handle....when I get it perfected I will post the images of it....but it will only be relevant to my old tripod which has a VERY short handle......you will have to work out the mountings for your own type of tripod/monopod, stabilizer, crane, dolly whatever.
So a little deep thinking will be needed on your behalf, until someone out there comes up with a cheap commercial product that works.

Below, I have a basic concept drawing of the unit that should give most of you the general push in the right direction......I hope...!

Now for a few helpful pointers.....and annoyances....

1) The opto cables are cheap, BUT they only come in annoying lengths eg 1 metre (39 inches) or greater.....I know they can be cut......but I feel that would be like nailing Jello to a tree.....as the ends are generally moulded.........

2) The cables DO NOT like being bent excessively (read the packaging it came in).

3) I have found in my situation that spiral winding (gently) around tripod/monopod legs or winding a loose loop and fastening with a small cable tie (zip tie) are useful.

4) Most good electronic component hobby shops keep fibre optic experimental kits that may give you what you want.

5) The buttons on your remote are not in the most ergonometric position (read hard to reach)....
For tripods, this is not such a problem, but maybe for stabilizers (handheld) it may require some practise to reach the basic set...eg..RECORD, ZOOM, AUDIO ADJUST, STILL IMAGE etc...
I have found that this small annoyance is quickly mastered, as the Canon Remote has the RECORD, ZOOM, PHOTO buttons at the top of the remote.

6) If you have a camera that has the IR pick-up in a different place than the cameras indicated here...say under the lens barrel.....then a little bit of imagination should help.....maybe a simple plate between camera and tripod mount to support the opto plug....


Canon XM2 / GL2 IR Pick-UP

BASIC CONCEPT
(Controller End)

BASIC LAYOUT
(Remote end)
The remote would typically slide into place in the cradle and be retained maybe with Velcro, elastic bands....again whatever...as long as it holds firmly, but is easily removed.!
The opto plug would be glued into place with say epoxy to ensure NO movement which may cause poor alignmnet to the IR sender.

CAMERA MOUNTING
BRACKET

In the drawing above, a typical mounting bracket is shown for the CANON XM2 / GL2.
It would be simple to build out of a light alloy material and of course may be of any shape or size to suit your camera.
Views A and B show that the bracket may be mounted on top of or under the existing camera microphone mounting (XM2, VX2000, PD150 etc)...the only stipulation of course is that the optical sender plug must be able to get the IR beam to the camera IR pick-up.....
Part C shows how the bracket is clamped to the camera through the bracket that is folded to suit, with a small bolt.....suggest also a small piece of felt or similar under the clamp end to protect camera body from scratches.
For my own setup, I did not wish to cover the microphones on the camera....so the mounting does not have to be very wide......just enough to support the optic cable plug.

Also STRAIN RELIEF of the opto cable is very important, so secure it carefully so that it does not pull on the camera end.

The REFLECTING SURFACE is achieved by either highly polishing the surface or by gluing aluminum foil and smoothing out the surface before the glue is dry...

Of course any reflecting material may be used....even say a tiny piece of thin mirror, shiny thin chromed metal....and even chromed plastic pieces from parts left over from a plastic model kit.

Mounting the remote and its cradle to whatever you are attaching it to is best worked out by you, as there are such a multitude of tripods, monos, stabilizers etc it would be difficult to be specific....but hey, aren't you a DIYer.....?

Just follow the axiom....KISS...or....KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID...!

I hope that you will find this project suits your needs and saves you a few dollars into the bargain...

Keep on thinking....and remember POST your version of this idea to the HBS site so we can ALL benefit.....I would personally love to see your efforts.

Regards
Mark Robertson

Original concept posted: 11-11-03 and this page and images is copyright........
USER SUBMISSIONS

Update: Paul Glock's Idea.
I have just built a 6' jib arm for my GL2 and was looking for a LANC controller when I came across your page. When I first got my camera, I thought the remote was broken and even called Canon. Then I discovered that the remote only worked from the front. What brain surgeon came up with that one? Well to get to the point, I was inspired by your idea, and took it either one step forward or backward, depending on how you look at it. I just took an old business card. Taped aluminium foil to it, and taped it to the lens hood. It works great, and I just saved a few hundred dollars.

Paul Glock. FL