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Backup/Side Lights |
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I have seen multiple backup light installations on the web and I too am tired of backing up in the dark. My issue was the sides. With the slide out on the Utah, we try to get it as close to the side as possible. So I mounted the lights on 65 pound lift weight magnets and added quick disconnects. I routed wires not only to the rear but also to the front sides. That way I could move one of the lights to either side of the trailer. These are 35 watt halogen fog lights. I also have a 10 foot jumper so I can place one on the back of the truck if needed. |
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Cost
Lights $19.99
flat bar $2.00
Switch and cover 5.00
Magnets $6.99 ea
Connectors 3 at 1.79
Conduit holders 2 at $0.25
Flat sided treaded nut $1.50
Automotive wire protector 35 ft at .28 per foot
Had on hand items:
3/4 " Conduit splice box
Wire
Scotch clips, butt splices, zip ties, zip tie plates, various nuts and bolts |
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I placed a switch within a outdoor conduit junction box and mounted the box on the battery box using conduit holders. This way I can switch the lights on when I take off the sway control. I capped the top but left the bottom open. There is enough room in the box for the switch and an inline fuse holder (10 amp). I got a 20 amp switch with a water-proof switch cover from my local carquest dealer. This will be painted black but wanted to get pictures first. |
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This is the side connector. It sits just under the water heater cover on the drivers side and just behind the front of the main box on the other side. These are from Autozone. The Radio Shack variety only has 20 gauge wire and were difficult to pull apart. |
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This is how it looks on the back. The somewhat cheesey looking bar sticking out is so I can remove them easier and if I need to hold the light while it is on I'm not trying to hold a 150 degree light. The bar and magnet will be painted black to match the light. |
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Here's a detail of the light. The magnet is from the local Ace Hardware but look around for a better price. I used flat sided threaded connectors that I epoxied onto the magnet to fit the slots in the light base. I drilled 3 holes in the flat bar. There is a bolt through the center hole in the magnet, the base of the light and the bar. The 2 side connector are there for keeping it straight. This allows the lights to still tilt up or down. |
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Lessons learned:
1. When epoxying on the threaded nut, plug the botton with wax or crayon. Otherwise the epoxy goes up into the threads.
2. Cut the bolts short enough so that they don't protrude and lift the threaded side right out of the epoxy.
3. I know for a 12 ft box, 35 ft of wire protector seems a bit much but I used every inch.
4. Don't try to fit but splices and 2 wires in a 3 wire protector. It don't fit.
5. Put the protector on before you route the wire under the trailer and through the gaps. |
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