-ALL YOU EVER NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT AE82 SUSPENSION UPGRADES-
-ALL YOU EVER NEEDED TO KNOW ABOUT AE82 SUSPENSION UPGRADES-
So you have your AE82, and before you want to add some power to the car, you think you should be able to make it handle like a dream and show up some of the local autocross guys. But before you begin, you must identify which type of suspension you have. This is where the road forks. You either have an AE82 that came with the SOHC 4ALC engine or the DOHC 4AGE engine. AE82s that came with the 8-valve included all the sedans (with exception of the Nova Twin Cam), wagons, and the FX hatch back model. The AE82 started production around 1983 and had its last model in 1987. The SOHC type did not come with a "sports" suspension which have differences with their counterparts. Their counterparts being the FX-16 and Nova Twin Cam. The FX-16 and Nova T.C. came with sway bars, strut tower braces, and front and rear lower brace. They use a different styled strut and spring, and most importantly, already have the 4AGE in them.
If you have an FX-16, this will be more information than you probably would need.
1. BUSHINGS
Highly recommended by anyone who drives a car that has seen over 10 years of roads. Bushings become soft, and deteriorate over time. This leads to excessive body roll or "lean" during high speed cornering, and will make your car bouncy. While actually not a real upgrade, factory Toyota bushings will make the car handle like new again (with new struts of course!). Factory bushings are relatively cheap, and readily accessible by anyone, anywhere. And because they are Toyota parts, you know they will last and fit properly.The alternative here is to get a set of hard-rubber and/or polyurethane bushings. Polyurethane bushings hare several advantages over factory rubber bushings: First, they are much harder and more resistive to flexing than rubber bushings. These bushings will greatly sharpen the response of your suspension, and provide instant feedback. The downside to these polyurethane bushings is that they are hard to find. One source of acquiring them is through Cyberauto Performance. They can acquire a full set of TRD polyurethane bushings from Japan for approximately 51,900 Yen. These are TRD units, specified for the DOHC (FX-16) AE82. However, they will fit the SOHC AE82.
There is a cheaper source, courtesy of Andy who is building a 4AGZE Nova monster. Fulcrum Suspensions of Australia makes bushings for the AE82 at a decent price. At the time Andy requested information, the total cost of a kit shipped to the United States is roughly $205 USD. Here is a breakdown of part numbers and cost:
| Fr lower control arm front bushes SPF326Kx1 | $35.40 $AUD |
| Fr lower control arm rear bushes SPF1360Kx1 | $59.65 $AUD |
| Rear trailing arm bush kit-spf823k (1 req) | $77.10 $AUD |
| Rear control arm inner bushes spf1216k (1 req) | $70.60 $AUD |
| Rear control arm bushes spf825k | $63.40 $AUD |
| Note: offset bushing kits available for vehicles pulling left or right (caster correction) |
2. STRUTS
-SOHC AE823. SPRINGS-DOHC AE82
-INTER CHANGEABILITY
-LOWERING SPRINGS:
The easiest way to lower the center of gravity of your AE82 is to get a set of lowering springs. Cutting stock springs should be strictly avoided. Depending on which model AE82 you have, these are your options:SOHC: King Springs of Australia. A very respectable spring company. Front is linear rate, while rear is progressive. I have tried a set of these myself. They are excellent street springs, but might be a little too soft for autocross, depending on your needs. These springs lower the car just right, as it makes the car appear much better, while having enough clearance for everyday roads. The approximate cost of a full set including shipping to the United States is roughly $260 - $280 USD.
DOHC: Intraxx (America) and King Springs (Australia). Intraxx springs costs approximately $200 - $230 USD. I have heard both positive and negative things about Intraxx. Some people like them just fine, while others claim that these springs go soft very quickly, and is more of a "show" piece than "go" piece. Meaning the spring rates aren't quite right, but it lowers your car just fine. King Springs on the other hand have progressive springs for both the front and rear. I would believe that the price would cost the same as the SOHC springs.
DIFFERENCE?: If you have a SOHC AE82 and would like the FX-16 springs to work for you, simple change your strut assembly over to the ones found on the FX-16. This would allow you to use the FX-16 springs without buying the entire car. If you are unsure what the FX-16 strut assembly looks like, just look at the strut cap, the part that bolts to the chassis. For SOHC AE82s, there are only 3 studs, while the DOHC version came with 4. This only applies to the front. All AE82s use 3 studs in the back.
TRD used to make a set of lowering springs with higher spring rates for the FX-16. They are no longer on sale, but one might be able to find them used.
There might be some work involved in switching these strut assemblies. I have not experienced this change over myself, but I have been told that the FX-16 strut assemblies are a little bit thicker ("beefier"), and the two holes used to secure the strut to the wheel hub might have to be enlarged with a drill.
-ADJUSTABLE COIL OVERS
Adjustable coil overs allow a range of ride height adjustment, as well as having the freedom to have any spring rate you would want. Ground Control of USA makes a kit for the FX-16, and works for both SOHC and DOHC AE82s. This kit uses 2.5" (diameter) springs wound by Eibach. The approximate cost is roughly $399 a set. The results are much better than lowering springs, especially if you AE82 does track duty like mine. My current setup is listed on the front page of this website and gives the car an overall, very neutral handling, with a small hint of oversteer when commanded by the driver. The ease of install makes G.C.'s coil overs an excellent upgrade too.
4. ANTI-SWAY
BARS AND CHASSIS BRACE(S)
The FX-16 came with front and rear anti-sway bars, as well as a host of chassis braces. The SOHC AE82 was not given these suspension members.Anti-sway bar upgrades are available from Addco Suspension Products (USA). These sway bars fit in the factory location, but are larger than stock. The price is very reasonable compared with other companies who make sway bars. The part numbers and specifications are:
Part Number: Diameter (inches): Front: 757(U/S) 1" Rear: 381(U/S) 3/4" A part number alone signifies rubber bushings. Part number plus "U" signifies polyurethane. Part number plus "S" signifies "competition series" which, according to Addco's website comes with a book on handling, rubber and polyurethane bushings, with adjustable endlinks where applicable. The "S" package is new to Addco, and at the time of writing, I am not sure if this package is available from Addco.
Chassis bracing is the second most important thing next to sway bars. The chassis brace that makes the most difference is the strut tower brace. With a proper strut tower brace installed, the front end of the car will resistant flexing (twisting motion during turning), and the car will be able to corner more "flat." There are several ways of acquiring a strut tower brace, the most easiest is to source one from an FX-16 at a local junkyard. There will be some drilling needed, as the FX-16 strut bar bolts to the firewall. Be sure to take those two large bolts encase you want to tap the firewall. If not, then drill two holes and go to your local hardware store to get a good set of nuts and bolts to bolt the FX-16 strut brace to your fire wall.
In the medium difficulty range lies a custom strut tower bar. I have one of these in my AE82 and it works very, very well. What you will need is welding equipment (and welding skills!) or a buddy to do it for you. There really isn't anything hard about making one. Cut two plates that will bolt to your strut towers, find a long rod of the same material (or else it won't weld!!). That's all you need. Of course, you will need to drill the proper holes, and measure how long of a rod and where you would weld it to the plates, but other than that, that's it. A tip I can offer: tack weld the rod to the plates first, and do not weld the whole thing at once. You'll run the risk of the brace not fitting right! Instead, mark the position of where the rod is going to be welded on to the plates, "tack" weld it, place it back on your car, bend the small weld if necessary to ensure a proper fit. Do this two to three times at least before you do a final weld. This will cost probably as much as getting an FX-16 brace from the junkyard, but will work much better, and plus, you made it! In my opinion, if made properly, a custom strut brace is much better, and stronger than one you could buy.
The most costly method is to order one. I have been thrown hints that Toysport of California can order a Cusco unit from Japan for untold $$$$$$. If you have the money, want a nice fancy one, and willing to wait a long time, this is for you.
Other chassis braces include under carrige braces the FX-16 is equipped with. These stretch from one suspension arm (where the arm bolts to the chassis) to the other. There is a front brace and a rear brace. It is no more than a long rod that connects each side's suspension arms.
5. ALIGNMENT
-STREET-AUTOCROSS & STREET USE
-SUSPENSION ADJUSTMENT OPTIONS AND ADD-ONS
-UNFINISHED (Nov.
22, 2000)
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