A trip to Pantelleria

contact: Rosario

Pantelleria, the largest of the Sicilian islands, born of a volcanic eruption some 300,000 years ago, is much more than a holiday resort site. This island, incredibly rich in natural beauties and interests, offers a variety of ideal vacations, from a busy stay in one of the hotels along the coast to the peace and quiet of a dammuso, typical home of the Panteschi (the italian name of the island people), in one of the small villages located by the sea or inland.

Sunshine and good weather make the summer a very long one, well beyond the usual three months of the regular season. Swimming and diving in the crystalclear waters remains an unforgettable pleasure, whether you choose the small volcanic pools or the tiny bays around the island.

Those interested in history will find archeological remains and monuments scattered all over the island, witnesses of the long history of man's occupation. Touring the island is made possible by a good road system, reaching almost everywhere. Pantelleria is linked to Sicily both by ships and by planes of the national companies.

HISTORY

Pantelleria's long history is due to its geographical position and is directly connected to the sea. The Sesioti came in 5,000 B.C. to extract and work obsidian. This black, shiny, sharp vitrified lava was considered as gold in the stone age. Interesting remains of this population still exist in the Mursia area: defensive walls, foundations of old homes, and, most important, megalithic funeral monuments called Sesi.
The Phoenicians arrived in Pantelleria sometime during the IX th century B.C.; they first called it Yranim and later Cossyra. This was the beginning of the island's golden age, for these people planted grapes, issued coins with the Goddess Tanit's image, built water tanks in several areas, strongholds at San Marco, a temple by the lake Specchio di Venere, and the first harbour, remains o which are still visible. Then came the Romans, who reinforced all the strngholds, followed by the Byzantines, who greatly improved living conditions.
The Arabs landed on the island around 700 A.C. nd remained until 1200 A.C. Their culture had a very strong influence on Pantelleria and its presence is still evident. The Arabs called this island al-Quasayra, (name still used by the Berbers of orth Africa for Pantelleria), then Bent-el-rion, daughter of the wind. They created the dammusi (from the Arab: vaulted structure), typical houses built with lava blocks and a dome roof to collec rain. They also introduced the cultivation of cotton and olives, improved the cultivation of zibibbo grapes and built the abmirable fortified city of Pantelleria (unfortunately almost completely de troyed during the 2nd World War), around the Castello Barbacane. Next came the Normans, followed by the Swabians, the Angevins, the Aragonese and the Bourbons. In 1860 Pantelleria was annexed to he Kingdom of Italy and has shared its historical vicissitudes up until the present.

CLIMATE AND GEOLOGY

The climate is typically mediterranean with hot summers and warm winters. The average temperature is 18 degrees. Constant winds keep clean the ever-changing sky, and rain is scarce. The island shows clear signs of its volcanic origin. Most evident are la Grande Caldera, whose edge circumscribes the entire island, la Montagna Grande (Sciaghibir to the Arabs), the remnant of an ancient cone and the 40 other hill, Kuddie, formed by old craters, around it. Then there are the favare, jets of steaming water hissing from rocky clefts and the bagni asciutti whose emissions of steam make them natural sauna caves, useful in the treatment of rheumatism,and the calderelle, hot springs, often reaching 70 degrees, scattered about the island.

WHAT TO VISIT

The Montagna Grande: natural park and green heart of the island, home of near 600 endemic botanic species, including the Limonium Cosyrese, the Helichrysm Errarae and the Mattiola Incana. This park is also the only nesting place in Europe of the so graceful and highly colored Cinciarella Algerina and Beccamoschino. At sunset, from the Montagna Grande, the sight of the Sicilian Channel, with an occasional view of the African coast, is spectucular.
The farming villages: groups of dammusi with their giardini, enclosures for citrus fruit trees, shltered from the wind by their partcular lava-stone walls. There are 11 villages located all over the island; they still use their original Arab names, Khamma, Rekhale, Bukkuram, Bugeber.
The Specchio di Venere: this tiny lake, of volcanic origin and of outstanding colors, is fed by thermal springs. Not only does it offer plenty of possibilities for water sports and fango therapy, in spring and autumn it becomes a natura observatory for many species of migratory birds.
The Khagiar: an exuberant vegetation of mediterranean bush, made up of myrtle, arbutus, lentl and heather, grows low to the ground, shaped into fa tastic forms by the wind, on an ancient lava flow, 3 kilometers long. A great number of wild rabbits live here, as well as the so-called Greek turtle.
Dietro Isola: the southern part of the island, where thereis a pine wood (Aleppo, Maritime), challenging the sea fr m the cliffs. An explosion of scents persist in this continuation of the forest of the Montagna Grande.
Salto la Vecchia: these cliffs of the unforgettable name rise 300 meters above the sea,offer ng a spectacular panorama. Several species of birds nest in them.
The Piana di Ghirlanda: this fertile plain, sheltered from the winds by the surrounding ancient volcanoes, is considered the garde of the island. After some searching, bizantine tombs can be found carved in the rocks of a peaceful, small wood. The lava-stone walls: the typical agricultural architecture is rendered by the vast etwork of stone fences, which create cultivable terraces on the sides of volcanoes all over the island.
The cantine: the many cellars where the famous Moscato and Passito are produced. The caper Co-operative: where the so tasty capers are processed and sold. The Bagno Asciutto: literally the dry bath, but one is far from dry after a few minutes in this natural sauna, a beautiful cave, seemingl lost in a tumble of rocks near a mountain path: The bathing spots along the coast: Karuscia, Campobello, Khattibuali, Cala Cinque Denti, Cala Gadir with its thermal springs, Cala Tramontana, the faraglione, Cala Levante, the incredible Arco dell'Elefante, Pantelleria's natural monument (legend would have it that when the island lacks water the elephant pumps it in from the sea). The tour continues with the Cala Rotonda, the Balata dei Turchi and its obsidian cave, Nica`, where the thermal springs are at almost 100 C, the ancient Roman port of Scauri, the thermal baths of Sateria, Suvaki, Punta Fram with its fantastically sculpted lava forms, Mursia and the Cala Bue Marino. And absolutely not to be missed: a boat trip around the island , not only for a different view of it, but a so to visit the numerous marine caves, some as vast as cathedrals, where the colors of the sea play from deep blue to emerald green. The smaller boats weave in and out of these caves; one can also lower the anchor and dive in for a closer view of the beautiful underwater life.

GASTRONOMY

Pantescan gastronomy reveals the traces and tastes of the varoius peoples who have inhabited the island and includes several absolute musts. From the island itself come the delicately flavoured ricotta and mint ravioli and the aromatic pesto pantesco. This sauce, composed of olive oil, tomatoes, garlic, dasil and peppers, accompanies equally happily spaghetti, meat or fish. The justifiably famous Pantescan capers are to be found everywhere, and along with the heady local origan give the cuisine its very particular touch. From nearby Africa comes the fish couscous, always served wit a variety of vegetables and usually as a main dish. Sciakisciuka is a hot, spicy Mediterranean vegetable stew; the dominant ingredient of Cuccurumma is local zucchini. From the sea come fish so frsh and tasty as to merit the simplest of preparations; it is either grilled or baked. These fish go by the evocative local names of Ricciole, Dentici, Cernie, Saraghi, Pesce Spada, Aragoste, and along with the reefs' abundance of lobster, crabs, sea urchins, anemones and so on enrich even further the local cuisine. From the Orient comes the Cannateddro, the traditional Easter sweet, wheras the Arab tradition has contributed delights like the lacy Mustazzola, as beautiful as they are delicious, perfect with glass of Passito. One could carry on for pages, but....But while it has been our pleasure to give you these few facts about Pantelleria, it's up to YOU to discover the real and subtle charm of this enchanting island.

For further information write to Rosario


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