You posted:
>I am presently trying to decide on which beaulieu super8 camera to buy and I've narrowed it down to three, a 4008S, a 5008S, and the 7008S. I would appreciate any feedback or opinions on these particular models and if possible, what a fair price for each would be.

The Beaulieu models you describe above are all quite different from each other. The advantage of the Beaulieu cameras from model 6008S, 6008Pro, 6008S Digital, 6008Pro Digital, 7008S, 7008Pro,(Note: the 8008 was not a Super 8 camera, but a Hi-8 videocamera with interchangeable lenses that was shortlived), 9008S, and 9008Pro, is that they will use standard Double A Alkaline or NiCads(recommended). The earlier metal bodied cameras require a Beaulieu screw in battery cell which takes a long time to recharge, is costly to purchase and/or recell. Also, you can use other external power packs for these cameras, but you must have the dummy battery socket and the external power cord in order to be able to utilize external power.

>I've been told that beaulieus made within the last 15 years (i.e. 7008S) are not as reliable as the older models. Is this true? Any help concerning these matters would be most appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Some initial models of the Beaulieu cameras (as with most any product) had some quirks and Beaulieu was fairly quick to rework these issues. The screw in battery cell was used from the last 2008S camera up to the final 5008S Multispeed. The battery cells for the 2008S(b), 4008 series, and 3008S & 5008S cameras are not compatible with each other. The 3008S and 5008S batteries work on either camera, and attach to the release grip. The 2008S(b)(only those later ones with the upgrade conversion) and 4008 series (4008S, 4008ZM, 4008ZMII(a), 4008ZMII(b){this model has the declutch button above the frame counter so you can do lap dissolves & super-impositions if you have the rewind device}, 4008 M3, & 4008ZMIV) are generally compatible with each other.

As to which is the best....that is a relative term, and those devotees of a particular model will say theirs is best. Each camera has its own unique features. The 3008S & 5008S cameras are the most limited models....they are primarily designed as sound cameras, and have no variable shutter. Film backwind can only be done with Sound cartridges, since there is no de-clutch feature to do so on Silent cartridges. Also, these two cameras can only do single-frame shots IF you have the optional Single-Frame device (of which there are two series made...one to fit the earlier non-multispeed versions, and one to fit the later multispeed models). These are excellent cameras nontheless, and do have the retractable groundglass screen and lens interchangeability. However, running speeds are limited and there is also no flash synchronization PC contact. Out of the models you mentioned.....these two are the most limited in features, having been designed as sound cameras....and the capstan system runs whether you use silent or sound cartridges anyhow.

The later 4008ZMII(b)(4008ZM2) and 4008ZMIV(4008ZM4) have the de-clutch button to allow film rewind up to 100frames. You also have to have the film rewind device, which screws into the Pilotone Sychro Socket. Although, a short flat-head screwdriver will work also, if you are very careful. Note: The special ruggedized field camera 4008 M3 with manual zoom only does not have the de-clutch button either. These models will allow you the option of a variety of functions, however, most features are slow to use and have to be done carefully to achieve professional effects.

The Beaulieu series 6008 onward simplified some functions, as well as made the change to a Double A battery standard, making power supply much easier. Film rewind is motorized, but fade in/out is still done manually via a lever switch. Also, these models do not have a retractable focusing screen; instead having opted for a combination fresnel/aerial image screen with a central groundglass focusing spot (the current 9008 series also has the TV safety line grid with widescreen outline as well). The camera bodies are made of Lexon, and are quite sturdy....many many films have been made with this design...and obviously it has proven itself since it's introduction in 1980.

Cost: this is where decisions are made. Older Beaulieu cameras can often be purchased a very reasonable prices. Your average 4008ZMII with a 6mm-66mm Schneider zoom lens, sold in the $795 to $1295 range when new in the mid to late 1970's. These can often be purchased in good to excellent running condition with working battery and charger in the $350 to $750 price range (depending on where purchased and condition and which lens option: 6mm-66mm Schneider, 8mm-64mm Angenieux, 7mm-80mm Angenieux etc). Dealers may charge higher...but then usually can offer a limited short-term warranty.

The 3008S(8mm-48mm Schneider single speed zoom lens) and 5008S(6mm-66mm Schneider & 7mm-80mm Angenieux, variable speed zoom lenses) cameras sold in the $1295 to $1795 price range. Their average selling price in the good to excellent condition range varies from $350 to $750, again, depending on various factors. Earlier non-multispeed models tend to sell toward the lower end of the price spectrum.

The 6008, 7008 series run in the $550 to $4200 range depending on which lens they are equipped with, condition etc. The basic lenses offered were: 6.9mm-55mm Beaulieu lens(glass made by Chinon), 6mm-70mm Schneider lens, 7mm-80mm Angenieux lens, 6mm-90mm Angenieux lens. Also offered but quite rare was the 10mm F/1.8 Schneider-Iscorama 1.5 Anamorphic lens combination for WideScreen filmmaking (this lens had no zoom range..but used the Beaulieu breech-lock lens mount and featured the Reglomatic aperture control for auto-exposure or manual. New or later model 9008 series cameras will run you into the $5,000 to $9,000 price range......quite high.

I hope this has helped you in your decision making. I have added extra information here to assist others reading this newsgroup....since detailed Beaulieu information isn't readily available.

You posted:
>I've had this doubt forever and nobody seems to know the practical answear. I've been interested in the super 8 Beaulieu 4008 for quite a long time but everybody turns my interest away with the power supply problem.

The power supply " problem" is only a problem due to cost, not because the Beaulieu battery design is insufficient. If you end up purchasing a Beaulieu 4008, get one of the later ones, a 4008ZMII, and make sure it has a small black button above the frame counter. This is the declutch button so that you can actually rewind the film to do lap dissolves and double exposures (along with the film rewind device). Earlier versions do not allow film rewind or lap dissolves.....yet many think that all 4008 cameras are identical.

>I don't get it. Here in Spain they won't almost sell them to you because "you can't get battery supply for it." From what I've read they sell a battery charger and the battery itself that will fit in the camera? Is this a new rig for the camera, the same old battery or what? At Super8Sound a new battery and charger is sold for a quite high price.

There are a few after-market products available, such as battery packs sold by: Chambless Cine Equipment (http://www.chamblesscineequip.com/), Cameras-Pro (http://www.cameraspro.com/ or email at bodart@intermind.net), Super8 Sound (http://www.super8sound.com/), and The Widescreen Centre in London, England (http://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/), Ritter Film & Video in Germany (http://www.ritterfilm.choin.de/) to name a few dealers. However, there is nothing wrong with the original battery pack, provided you have a new one, one in good condition, or have an older one recelled as new. The limitation is that a fully charged original Beaulieu 4008 battery pack will only power approximately 5 to 8 cartridges, depending on which running speed you're using, if you turn off the power frequently when not using the camera, and how much you use the power zoom feature.

So from this you can see, that it is very handy to have an additional, or even several battery packs. Since they are quite expensive (about $150 to $190 each), you could easily pay more for just three battery packs than what you can buy the entire camera for! One solution is to use a battery belt set or larger external power source fed to the camera via the external power cord and the dummy battery socket (which replaces the NiCad battery in the camera's side).

Alternatively, you can also make up your own power supply, if you are knowledgeable enough.....since you don't want to damage the delicate light metering system. The camera operates on two voltages, one to feed the the power zoom and drive motor (at full 7.2volts), and another to power the light metering system (approximately 4volts). Many have used video camera 7.2volt battery packs and made up their own power supply......by still using the dummy battery socket and external power cord, and splicing the feed end of the power cord to the two different voltages (you have to operate on the video battery pack to run a line out for the lesser light metering voltage). Some have just tied in the 7.2volts to power the motor and zoom only, and just left the metering system alone (especially if it's not working correctly anyhow, common on some very old 4008s), and used manual metering with a good hand-held light meter etc.

Hopefully this has provided you with some facts to come to a good decision. Research what some of the dealers are providing for these cameras, and weigh the facts in your decision-making. They are outstanding cameras, more difficult to operate than most other Super 8mm cameras, but do have some features that other cameras don't have.

You posted to the Super8 Newsgroup:
>I just got a Beaulieu 4008 II, and I spent 600 dollars on it. Was it a good price for this camera?

Congratulations on your purchase of one of the finest and also the most complex Super 8mm motion picture cameras. The price, if your camera is in excellent condition and runs fine and has the outstanding Schneider-Krueznach 6mm-66mm zoom lens, complete with battery and charger, was well worth it. Since any amount of repair servicing on these cameras can nearly equal or exceed the going prices these days (on private or auction sales, not from dealerships which often are much higher), I feel you got a good deal. These were quite expensive to begin with, and in 1975-77 dollars this camera sold for about $995.95 to $1,295.95 from large city camera shops via mail order.

>Also, could anyone who has used this camera give me some inputs on this camera? I am planning to use it shoot inserts for my 16 mm short.

It would help if you would be more specific, but I'll try a crack at some advice. The battery pack will only run an average of 7 to 12 cartridges under full power, and that depends on how much you utilize the power zoom, and leave the camera under power when it's idle. Compare the meter readings the camera provides you with those of a reliable hand-held light meter, to make sure it's accurate. As these cameras age, it is quite common for the metering system to begin to lose accuracy, the galvanometer (meter needle) to become inactive, and for the automatic reglomatic system which drives the lens aperture to become sluggish and/or not work properly. It is often best to use the camera in manual mode anyhow, just as you would any professional camera. It also has a tendancy to vary the exposure somewhat when set to automatic or manual when in non- running mode as compared to when it's in operation. This is due to the guillotine shutter interferring with the meter reading, and cutting down some of the light the meter receives.

Also, try to avoid using the camera in automatic when shooting any slower than normal speed, since the shutter system will severely begin to affect the auto-exposure mode.

If you wish to do in-camera lap dissolves or superimpositions, hopefully you have the latter model ZMII which has a cartridge core declutch button located right above the footage counter. This button must be held in for the duration of the initial scene, so that slack is provided in the cartridge prior to rewinding the film. For film rewinding, it is best to use the Beaulieu Rewind Knob.....however a short flathead screwdriver will also work. Remove the pilotone cover, and store in a safe place, and just carefully insert into the center shaft's slot, and carefully turn it counterclockwise while observing the reversecount of the frame counter. If you don't have this latter model ZMII or ZM2, then you can still do this effect by taping over the cartridge core with some tape (Scotch, Cello or similar) which will prevent the core from taking up the film slack. If you can remove and replace the cartridge for this operation in total darkness or via a film changing bag....you won't have any fogged frames then. After you have rewound the film back you will need to remove the cartridge again to remove the tape from over the core. Reinsert into the camera, and then commence your shooting your second scene. Also, make note of the footage counter prior to cartridge removal since it will reset itself to the beginning.

When attempting fades (in and/or out), it is best to have the camera on a tripod since it is a bit awkward to evenly depress the variable shutter lever on top of the camera for a smooth effect while handholding. It can be done....but there's always a slight risk of your finger slipping and ruining the shot.

Avoid running the camera at the high slow motion speeds without film in the camera, as it could damage the speed governor.

Carefully set up the viewfinder for your eyesight with or without eyeglasses (whichever you require and prefer), having either first removed the lens from the camera, or set it to full macro mode to throw everything competely out of focus. Make sure you have the ground glass screen in position, and then carefully adjust the eyepiece diopter lens unti the ground glass structure is tact sharp. Then double check this by setting the camera on a tripod 10ft from a wall to which you've attached some newsprint to. Use a tape measure and measure from the newsprint to the focal plane point on the camera (just in front of the cartridge loading door point). Set the camera lens to 10ft on the focus scale, and zoom to full telephoto. The newsprint should be tack sharp. If not...fine tune the eyepiece diopter ring until it is....and then lock it down with the small locking knob.

If you don't already have an onwer's manual for the camera, I highly suggest you consider getting one. If it helps you with even one technique or function, it will be well worth it.

One really nice feature on these cameras is that you can place the lens into macro mode anywhere throughout the zoom range, which makes it very helpful.

Double check that the two internal filters are firmly in position and not loose or dirty. Do this by removing the lens, then with the camera off, remove the pilotone port cover, and gentley move the shaft counterclockwise until the shutter is fully open. Now, open the cartridge loading door and while aiming the camera at a bright light source, examine the builtin filters. There are two of them, next to each other on a sliding unit, one is clear(UV) and the other is the 85A (daylight conversion filter for tungsten Type A films. By depressing the filter lever in the film chamber to the front and lower right of the film chamber, you can move the filter bar slowly and observe the position of both filters. You should be able to tell if they are warped, cloudy, dirty, or have come loose. Many Beaulieu owners of these older cameras either have them removed and just use lens filters, or they have them replaced. If these filters are dirty, dusty, or cloudy, it will seriously impact the quality of your images, even just cutting down on contrast and increasing flare if they are only mildly ruined. If you have them removed, it is highly suggested that you have the lens recollimated to the camera body for pinpoint accuracy in focusing.....or run some focus tests at the very least to assure that there isn't any significant change or what change there is, you can live with. The builtin filters are one of the weak spots in these cameras...but then after well over 20 years, something is due to show wear! Beaulieu abandoned the builtin filters beginning with their 6008 series and up cameras. The filters are either builtin to the lenses now, or users use lens filter thread screwin filters (or addon filter systems such as the Cokin system etc).

I hope this helps get you on your way to shooting some dynamic images in Super 8mm, and also realize what the Super 8mm format is capable of.

Two questions:

1) I took off the lens to examine the 85A and clear (UV ?) filters and they appear to be weak. They have marks on them and I feel this would seriously impact the image quality. Is it possible to get a replacement or should they just be removed and use screw on filters?

The BEAULIEU 4008ZMII filters are very small gelatin filters (a #85 & a UV clear filter) which sit next to each other on a small brass colored slide behind the shutter and in front of the film gate. With the number of years that has gone by being easily over 20 for these cameras...those which have seen hard use, lots of use, and/or use in dusty environs will have these filters often marred and buckling. Warping, buckling etc can also happen to a mint condition model kept in the closet.....so eventually they need major servicing. To replace these filters is a major operation, since the internal camera chassis module has to be removed from the main body shells. It's nice and convenient to have them in the camera.....but many prefer to just remove them and film by using filters on the lens(es) that they use. To remove them, you have to have the shutter open fully and the lens removed. Using a Q-Tip, push the filters out of their slide from the film gate, and grab them out with some small tweezers thru the C-mount opening (being ULTRA CAREFUL NOT to scratch or touch the mirror on the guillotine shutter or anything else!!!). Once you've removed the #85 Daylight filter.....depress the filter lever in the cartridge chamber, or using the filter key.....and then the UV filter will be in position to pop it out of place. IF you are careful, you can remove these without damaging the camera. They are just glued in position on the filter slide right next to each other.

You could try just blowing off any dust on them, very gently....and film a test to see how the images look with the filters still in position. It's nice to have the builtin filter since it allows a clear view when filming with Color film in daylight....some don't like the orange cast and thus slightly darkened viewfinder...which coupled with a smaller lens opening in bright light....can make the image a bit more difficult to see. To have them professionally replaced would not be cheap...and it's a good time to have the entire camera serviced; cleaned and lubricated, viewfinder X/Y positions adjusted etc...since the camera has to be torn down for this work anyhow.

I would like to add, that if the filters are loose at all and or severly buckled and should fall out of position, they can jam the shutter or film advance claw mechanism...so it's something to be mindful of with the older BEAULIEU cameras (models: 2008S, 3008S{&MS}, 4008S, 4008ZM, 4008ZM2, 4008ZMII, 4008M3, 4008ZM4, 4008ZMIV, 5008S{&MS}). Starting with model 6008S, BEAULIEU opted not to have the filter in the camera body anymore, and had it installed within their zoom lenses.....thus an orange viewfinder tint will be visible when filming with the Daylight #85 filter in position.

2) What is the synchro sound socket actually doing? Is it acting just like a PC flash delivering one pulse per frame or is it different?

On all BEAULIEU cameras having the Erlson Synchro-Pilot port.....this is a rotating drive shaft port which references 1-frame pulldown per complete rotation. When the synch-sound unit is installed, it operates a small mechanical switch so that a circuit can be competed when this is hooked up to a pulse synch generator for double-system sound filmmaking. So, yes, it is acting similar to that of a PC flash terminal....but only when the Erlson device is attached....otherwise it's just a rotating drive shaft. These cameras do not have any other frame reference output on them.

ALSO, this port is used with the optional BEAULIEU Rewind Device on Models 4008ZMII(later ones) and 4008ZM4 to allow film rewind for lap dissolves or superimpositions. Other versions of the 4008S and 4008ZM cameras cannot employ this device as it would break perforations in the film cartridge; since those cameras do NOT have the declutch device in the camera to prevent film takeup on the core in the cartridge.

IF a person uses some tape over the core drive in the camera to prevent film take up in the cartridge...then you can use the rewind device. However...this means removing the cartridge so you can tape over the core drive in the camera, then reinserting the cartridge to film the first part of the lap dissolve or superimposition (double-exposure etc), and then removing the cartridge again when completed so you can remove the tape to resume normal filming. It is possible to modify those Beaulieu cameras that don't have this declutch button by installling one.

Since so many read this newsgroup...I thought I'd add additional information in my answers. Also....the BEAULIEU models 3008S & 5008S (and the multi-speed versions) ONLY allow film rewind when using SOUND cartridges, NOT silent. Silent cartridges cannot be rewound for lap dissolves or superimpositions, UNLESS you use the same tape method as outlined above. The SOUND cartridges use a builtin plastic slip rachet which allows the film to go forward or in reverse. This design is different on SILENT cartridges, as it's a simple forward rachet only. IF you are willing to risk cartridge failure (not that common if this is done...I've experimented many times on this), you can turn the cartridge core on the SILENT cartridges counterclockwise to 'break' the internal ratchet...which would allow the film to be backwound then....but even so....there is great stress placed on the film and camera mechanism when this method is used. The tape method (also the method used for the HAMA, EWA and CRAVEN film backwinders) causes the film to form a large loop of film slack at the bottom of the cartridge, and this slack is easily rewound back to the supply side.

>the trigger on my 4008 has always been a little tricky to work, after pressing it all the way I would have to back off it just a little to get the camera to run. now it dose not work at all. Any suggestions???

---> The actual trigger button on the BEAULIEU 4008 series cameras is just a sliding shaft.....so you can unscrew it from the body (normally so done to remove the lens module prior to lens removal) and see if the sliding shaft is sticking. If so...you can spray a little bit of silicone on it and get it to move smoothly (spray only when you have removed it from the camera!). However.....chances are..this is not the problem.

---> The problem most likely is the actual internal trigger which is hanging up and not returning to its full upright position upon release. To get at this unit, you will have to remove the side body panel of the BEAULIEU camera.

INSTRUCTIONS:
NOTE: Be very careful in following these procedures so that you don't mar up the body or damage any components.

1. First remove the trigger, and then the lens.
2. To remove the side panel..carefully remove the screw to the Left of the viewfinder eyepiece.
3. Remove the screwin battery or dummy battery, using a small flatslot type screw driver...loosen the setscrew on the Ground Glass placement knob, and then slide it off the shaft it's located on.
4. Then you will need to unscrew the retaining ring around this shaft using an adjustable filter ring wrench.
5. Carefully lift the body shell cover up beginning to lift it near the viewfinder. Remove it carefully and set it down.

REPAIR: Examine carefully the brass colored L-shaped trigger which sits just behind the spot where the external screw-on trigger is located. It will have a spring attached to it, which is designed to help it return full upward. The spring might be weak or loose, in which case you will have to tighten it up using some fine needlenosed pliers, by creating a slight reverse bend in the spring, or adjusting its shape. Examine the pivot points of this lever, and make sure it depresses fully and returns easily. If not...the pivot points might need some slight lubrication. A TINY amount of fine oil (NOT WD-40! but more similar to sewing machine oil) can be placed on each pivot point and worked in by depressing the trigger and releasing it. Hopefully at this point it will behave normally. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. However...while having the side of the camera open you might want to adjust your viewfinder to correct X/Y axis orientation, blow out any dust from the internal workings, and the focusing screen area, and check over the camera's operational stance. NOTE: What often happens when removing this side panel is that the frame counter dial falls off. This dial is shimmed with a single non-metallic washer to give it some tension against the circular window. Make sure if it comes off...to replace this washer and the dial on top of it.

ADJUSTING the Viewfinder: You will first need to return the lens to the camera body, and set it to wide angle. To adjust the viewfinder...the camera's control side panel has to be removed as outlined above. You will need to have a miniature socket set for camera repair to adjust the viewfinder tube. The viewfinder tube near the front of the camera chassis has a side screw and a top screw...these are to adjust the X/Y axis of the viewfinder. For simplicity of doing so.....and if you have a macro Schneider-Kreuznach 6mm - 66mm lens...place a small stack of filters on the lens...or better yet....a stepdown ring from 62mm to anything smaller. Set the macro focus so that the vignetting from the filter stack is now in sharp focus. Adjust the X/Y axis of the lens ever so carefully and slightly so that the vignetted circle is perfectly centered in the viewfinder. Double check your work prior to reassembling the camera. If you do not have the zoom lens, or are using still camera lenses or another type of C-mount prime lens or zoom objective.....use some sort of filter pack or stepdown rings on that lens and follow the same procedures. The same applies to the earlier 2008S camera which has either the manual zoom F/1.9 8mm - 64mm Angenieux lens or the shorter Schneider manual zoom lens (same applies to the first manual zoom only 4008S camera).

---> If your BEAULIEU does not have the macro lens capability....you can still use this method....just set the focus to minimum, the lens to full wide angle, and close the lens aperture down until you can easily see the filter pack/filter-ring vignetting in the viewfinder, and follow the same procedures.

---> If you want an exact confirmation of centering, place the camera on a sturdy tripod...then place a perfectly perpendicular (and in a parallel plane) piece of white card stock or paper rigidly held in position. Focus the lens in the viewfinder onto this cardstock. Then place a small front surface mirror into the film chamber and at a 45° degree angle to the filmgate. Have the camera setup on a sturdy tripod. Open the camera's shutter manually, by turning the Erlson/Pilotone shaft with a small screwdriver counterclockwise until the shutter is open. [NOTE: If you have an earlier 4008ZM or 4008S model...you can still turn this shaft, even though the Erlson threaded unit does not exist on these models. Now....with the shutter fully open.....project a strong beam of light using a small Maglite or similar onto the mirror which will then project an illuminated blank frame image onto a white cardstock set before the camera at about 12 to 18inches. Mark the outer corners of the projected gate onto the cardstock with a small marker or tape. Close the shutter, so that you can view thru the viewfinder...and critically examine that the viewfinder coincides with these marks you made. If not...the readjust the viewfinder X/Y adjusters until the marks create a perfectly centered image in the viewfinder. NOTE: Use either tape or a fat marker so that the markers you make can easily be seen in the viewfinder for ease of adjustment.

---> Anticipating potential other questions...I thought I'd include some other repair points in this same posting. Hope this helps. Anyhow...I wish to add...if you do not feel comfortable opening up the camera, and/or do not have the correct tools, then leave this work to a compentant repair tech or individual that can do this for you.

If the BEAULIEU 4008ZM4 that you intend to get is in good to excellent working condition, and in decent shape cosmetically as well, then this [$610] is a fair price. However.....there isn't any real significant advantage to getting a 4008ZM4 over the late model 4008ZM2s, since the only really big change was the increase of the high end Frames-per-Second running rate of 70fps(on the 4008ZM2) to 80fps(on the 4008ZM4). That was the only real change to the camera body, for argument sake. The other big change was to the lens, of which there were two offered:

1. 6mm to 70mm F/1.4 Schneider-Kreuznach lens with macro(available only on the wide angle end).
2. 6mm to 80mm F/1.4 Angenieux lens with macro (available only on the wide angle end).

In my humble opinion....a BEAULIEU 4008ZM2 (or 4008ZMII with roman numeral designation....same camera), of late model vintage...the one with the small black declutch button just above the footage counter window.....and, having the 6mm to 66mm F/1.8 Schneider-Kreuznach lens(which allows full macro closeup capability at ANY focal length!), would be a better choice. Another good choice would be a 4008ZM4 with the same 6mm to 66mm lens(which will work on this camera also...but wasn't available any more at the time of introduction).

The 6mm to 70mm Schneider-Kreuznach lens that appeared on the 4008ZM4, also showed up on late model 5008S(Multispeed) models, and is the same lens design that made it into the later Beaulieu lexon-bodied models beginning with the 6008S on up. This is an excellent lens...don't get me wrong.....fine optics....it's just that relegating the macro feature to ONLY the wide angle end of the zoom range was a major step down. Anyone that has ever used the 6mm to 66mm Schneider lens can atest to this advantage. However.....as far as cameras go...the 4008ZM4 did have some minor improvement and is a very capable camera, virtually identical in all respects of operation to the previous 4008ZM2 (as well as the somewhat rare 4008M3 ruggedized safari version which didn't have power zoom, and didn't have the declutch button for film rewind).

One last major point of consideration when choosing a BEAULIEU Super 8mm camera: These older models use a screwin battery cell pack, which is expensive to replace (but can be recelled....even still a $100 or better expense), and quite often....a given camera, unless coming from someone that actually used it...will probably have sat for years. One of the unique features is that most any Beaulieu interchangeable lens Super 8mm camera can be repaired, serviced, adjusted etc....with greater ease than most any other Super 8mm camera. However...servicing requires a knowledgeable technician and it usually comes at considerable cost. It is not uncommon to pay anywhere from $175 to $350 to have a camera completely serviced. And even at that....parts can be difficult if not impossible to get (unless the camera is returned to the factory for serving in France...meaning you have to go thru a dealer and it WILL be expensive!), so that often....if the light meter is on the fritz (broken, damaged, or completely inaccurate), it may not be repairable, even though you will still be paying a hefty service bill. The light meters weren't all that great on automatic even when these cameras were new...but worked fine in manual mode. And manual mode is how most Beaulieu older model owners use their cameras anyhow....and usually with a handheld light meter (unless the builtin one is still functioning well).

In closing, I would like to add that the BEAULIEU Super 8mm movie cameras are quite capable machines, and will deliver some of the sharpest and steadiest Super 8mm footage you have ever seen. The do require some care (as all cameras do, of course), and can be considerably slower to operate than most any other Super 8mm camera. This is due in part to its design, and that it has professional features, usually only seen on very expensive 16mm cameras. If you don't mind having to pay high for servicing when needed, and can live with the camera's limitations and idiosyncracies......then what it can do for your filmmaking will benefit you. Otherwise...I would have to suggest using a different make camera. My suggestion to any Super 8mm filmmaker is to own several cameras anyhow....probably at least half a dozen for a variety of reasons and filming needs. The Beaulieu will make an excellent addition to a Super 8mm filmmaker's equipment lineup.

To set the viewfinder up correctly for your eyesight you need to follow these steps:

1. Remove the Beaulieu zoom lens unit. To do this...unscrew the 4008ZM trigger release. Then grasp the lens unit and unscrew it being careful not to damage the C-mount threads as you come to the end of its removal from the camera body. IF you'd rather NOT remove the lens unit from the camera body....then alternatively...shift the lens into full macro mode until everything you see is a complete blur in the viewfinder. You may have to adjust it somewhat to make sure everything is completely blurred since the lens will focus on the dust on the front element if you're not careful!
2. Flip the ground glass focusing screen into position; you should see the coarse grain structure of the screen when it's in position.
3. Now, while aiming the camera at a light source....adjust the viewfinder diopter lens adjustment until the grain structure of the ground glass screen is nice and crisp.
4. Tighten the setscrew on the side of the diopter adjustment so it will remain in this position.
5. Replace the zoom lens, again being very careful not to damage the C-mount threads on either lens or camera body while screwing it back in. Tighten it to a snug fit...but do NOT overtighten (it's not a water pipe!).
6. Carefully replace the trigger by screwing it back into the camera body.

Now the viewfinder is setup correctly for your eyesight. Set the camera on a tripod and using a measuring tape....measure exactly 10ft from the film plane (edge of the film chamber door closest to the lens is the film plane) to a wall where you have taped up some newprint. Throw the lens into full telephoto and fine focus until the newsprint is sharp. Now check the distance on focusing ring scale and see if it is set at 10ft. If it's right at 10ft or only slightly off...then that's a good sign....however...if it's quite a bit off...this is indicative of collimation being needed. Now repeat this setup for the following distances, 5ft, 10ft, 15ft, 20ft, infinity (infinity will HAVE to be an object that is more than 500ft away from the camera...preferably 1,000ft, away. If while at the Infinity setting and at full telephoto, the image still isn't [sharp] the lens will definitely need adjustment. If you can turn the focusing ring away from the infinity setting and the infinity image in the viewfinder comes into focus....then you can live with the camera as is for the time being. Since you will be focusing via the reflex focusing screen most of the time....a little bit out of adjustment to the past infinity setting is tolerable. However...if there's no way you can bring the lens into focus at infinity...then the lens will have to be collimated in order to render a sharp infinity focus.

Most any reliable repair shop should be able to collimate the lens....and prices will vary. It would be best if a shop dealing in motion picture equipment repair does the work, as they will be more familiar with this type of camera and setup. Chambless Cine Equipment offers repairs and they are very reliable...and there are others as well. Visit my repair information page on my website: http://members.aol.com/Super8mm/ServicesPage4.html. There you will find a listing of repair shops, and helpful tips.

The BEAULIEU 4008ZM4 was the last of the great silent Beaulieu camera line....and had the top end running speed of 80fps (compared to 70fps on previous models). It also had either of the two lenses: 6 to 70mm F/1.4 Schneider which only had macro focusing at the wide angle end...and incidently is the same basic lens that was carried over into the 6008S/Pro series cameras. And the optional 6mm to 80mm F/1.4 Angenieux lens. Other than that...it isn't much different than the late model 4008ZM2 before it. Some of you reading this...might wonder....why wasn't there there a 4008ZM3? Well...there wasn't...but there was a 4008M3, which is a crinkled black paint ruggedized body with a manual zoom only 6mm to 66mm F/1.8 Schneider lens.....the safari version of the 4008ZM camera for field use...intended to minimize use of battery power.

External Power Supply for Beaulieu 3008S/5008S Cameras

NOTE: Building this is very feasible, however, I make no guarantees, and it's entirely at your own risk.

So, you find yourself with a fine running BEAULIEU 3008S or 5008S Super 8mm sound camera and your battery is now dead. What are your options? You can order a new replacement battery pack which will cost near $200 plus your shipping costs, you can send the old one out for recelling at a cost of about $100, you can purchase a custom made external power supply (Cameras Pro offers several for cameras), or you can fabricate your own rechargeable external power supply.

Here's the terminal connnections on the camera's battery mount as you are looking at it:

Top centering pin socket.....(o)
Negative ground.............O   O.........Positive 7.2 volts (zoom & drive motor)
Positive 3.6 volts (Meter)....O

Remember: The above is as you are directly looking at the camera battery terminals. You will need to obtain a "dummy battery" unit which screws into the battery mount base of the camera. This will simplify matters, as then you'll only need to connect up a 3 pin DIN plug to the socket.....and/or use the Beaulieu external battery supply power cable. That notwithstanding, you should be able to get a 3 pin DIN power cord (microphone cord is fine) from Tandy, Radio Shack, Maplin etc electronics supply places.

If completely working from scratch, then you'll also need the following items:

1. 7.2 volt 500mA or larger rechargeable battery (those for video cameras are fine...but unless you can tap into an internal circuit to provide the 3.6volts for the metering system....you can only provide drive power).
2. Round electrical crimping terminals - 3, one for each battery terminal on the camera. Color code these so you keep track of which wire is which. Green for GROUND, Red for 7.2 volts PRIMARY(drive), and Blue for 3.6 volts SECONDARY(meter). Obtain some wiring, color coded to match if possible. You can always use colored electrical tape in lieu of actual colored terminal connectors and/or wires.
3. IF you don't have your old battery casing....then you'll have to cobble up some kind of cover for the camera's battery base. There are all kinds of small plastic type containers that can be adapted to fit over this....and even if you find one that's a perfect fit....you'll still have to attach it with several wrappings of electrical tape to secure it in place on the camera.
4. IF you have your old battery casing....then this will become your "dummy battery" equivalent. Since it screws firmly to the camera's battery base, it will be more professional looking.
5. Some heavy duty electrical line for the battery supply to camera connection. You can use good quality speaker wire (3 wire type), or run a third wire along side the 2 wire strand. Shop around, you should be able to find some good 3 strand wire.
6. A stereo mini socket with proper hole mounting hardware. This will fit into the end of your 'dummy battery' to allow for a quick connect and disconnect of your power supply.
7. A stereo 90º angle mini-jack: This will allow you to attach the wire to the battery casing socket, and allow for less strain on the wiring harness.
8. A leather type battery carrying case or project box to allow fitting of the rechargeable battery. If you get a project box...then also get the velcro belt clip, which will allow quick fastening to your waist belt. Or get a fixed belt clip, whichever you prefer. If using a leather(ette) type battery holder, then you can either carry this over your shoulder, or attach it to your belt via an attached belt loop etc.
9. If using a project box...you could add on an On-Off switch and LED to indicate that the power supply is on....but it's not necessary. The camera is only powered when the palm switch is set to the "on" position.
10. Soldering iron, solder, flux, fine sandpaper or emery cloth, electrical tape (black, green, red & blue, and/or whatever else you require), a portable drill with necessary drill bits to drill a hole in the "dummy battery" for the stereo mini-socket, and any other tools you might need. NOTE: If you'd rather build the socket connections using 3 pin DIN plugs, then use these parts instead of the stereo mini jacks & sockets. This will also give you the option of using the Beaulieu external power supply or the Cameras Pro unit, if you decide to purchase those at a later date.

CONSTRUCTION: Camera Dummy Battery from Old Battery

1. Drill a hole dead center on the bottom of the old dead battery casing.....since this will become your custom made "dummy battery." The hole drilled should be of size to accomodate the Stereo Mini-Socket unit.
2. Cut 3 wires of about 5 - 6 inches length maximum of each of the three colors....or just color code the wires so you know which is which. Bare both ends of each of the 3 wires.
3. Attach the end of each wire to the camera's battery terminals using the round wire crimps. Flux and solder to ensure good contact (optional).
4. Solder the ends of each of the three wires to the Stereo Mini-Socket, ensuring that base portion of the socket is the Ground. For simplicity....wire the Middle or End for the Primary (7.2 volt drive power), and the Center for the Secondary (3.6 volt meter power). Attach the Stereo Mini-Socket to the drilled hole in the battery case, and secure with the washer & nut that comes with it. Screw on the battery case; it won't turn, since only the fastening ring will turn...thus your wires will remain fine.
5. The camera portion is completed.

CONSTRUCTION: The External Battery Supply & Connection Lead

1. Now, using the wire lead you purchased cut off whatever length you feel comfortable with [usually somewhere between 3ft to 5ft is convenient]. Attach the correct wire ends to the 90° degree angled jack.
2. If you are using a open battery pack or pack of cells that you purchased....it will be fairly easy to solder the wires to the sections to provide you with the: Ground, Primary 7.2 volts, and Secondary 3.6 volts. If you have a hard plastic case video camera type battery...then you will need to crack open the plastic case to gain access to an inside terminal that you will make...to provide the power for the 3.6 volts meter supply. Drill a small hole or holes as needed in the battery case cover to allow you to run the wires out of it.
3. Solder the 3.6 volt lead (blue wire if color coding), to a portion of the inner set of batteries where three cells join. Each cell is 1.2 volts...thus 3 will provide the necessary 3.6 volts.
4. Solder the Primary 7.2 volt lead (Red if color coding) to the Positive end point of the battery pack supply.
5. Solder the Ground lead (Green if color coding) to the Negative terminal of the battery supply.
6. Make a small knot in the wires before they exit the plastic battery case. Or....if you are fitting this into a project box....then make a knot in the wires prior to their exiting the drilled holes in the project box [you will have to drill a hole(s) for the wires to exit]. OPTIONAL: If you like units that can be complete separated...you could attach a Stereo Mini-Jack to BOTH ends of the wire lead. Then if you install a Stereo Mini-Socket in the project box....you will be able to disconnect the wire from the battery whenever you want to. Why? In case you decide to make yourself a longer or shorter extra wire lead for whatever filming needs you may have.
7. DOUBLE-CHECK ALL connections and mini-jacks and sockets to make sure you have the polarity correct for each voltage and the ground is correct.
8. Install the battery unit into the project box and close up; or if using a leatherette type holder, place it into this...and make a large knot prior to where the wiring harness exits [to keep the wire harness from being pulled out and/or damaged easily].

All you have to do now is charge up your battery and you're ready to go. To charge your battery you will need a charger. If using a video camcorder type battery....if you made sure to drill the holes near the top of end of the plastic cover shell.....the battery will still fit into a camcorder battery charger. IF you have your original Beaulieu battery charger...you can charge the entire assembly thru the camera's onboard charger socket. If you have a loose set of rechargeable batteries that you have in a holder or strung together and this all sits inside the project box....you can charge them via the end cable. You will have to place an adapter onto the Stereo Mini-Jack to convert it to a Mono Mini-Jack. This way the charger that you use, will charge the battery pack correctly via the main Positive and Negative terminals.....thus correctly and fully charging all internal battery cells.

Now...bring that fine Beaulieu camera back to life and go make some movies!

>I have a question about something written in the FAQ for this ng. http://lavender.fortunecity.com/lavender/569/super8faq.html re: Kodachrome 40. The FAQ states: "Use the built in filter [85B] if you use it in daylight and set the E.I. to ISO 25/15."

A minor technical variation here......for use of KODACHROME 40 Type A film...the filter is the #85 (sometimes referred to as the 85A)....but the 85B will also work {200°K color temperature between the #85 & #85B filters}. On most cameras...the Super 8mm cartridge's meter indexing notch will tell the camera what filmspeed is in it.

>Re: Ektachrome 125, the FAQ states: "Use the built-in filter when filming in daylight. If you need very accurate color reproduction, use a external 85 filter instead. In both cases, set the E.I. to ISO 80/20.

Technically speaking yes....you would use an external daylight conversion filter intended for Type B films, of which EKTACHROME VNF 7240 is a Type B filmstock. When used with the filter, the effective filmspeed drops by 1/3 stop to ISO 80 due to the decreased light thru the filter. On Super 8mm cameras that index via the cartridge's meter setting notch....most cameras will default to the ASA 160 Tungsten setting for indoor use or the ASA 100 Daylight rating. Since ASA 100 is only 1/5th of a stop different from the actual ASA 80 rating in daylight with the 85 filter....most will not note any significant difference in exposure. The only exposure variation you might notice would be in low light...since the ASA 125 is a bit slower than the previous ASA 160 Tungsten rating...and in low light...even that little bit more...can make a difference at times.

>Now I may be wrong here, but this doesn't sound quite right if the internal light meter is measuring light THROUGH the filter.

On most Super 8mm cameras...the light for the light meter is derived previous to passing thru the builtin daylight conversion filter. When the filter is in position or out of position....a linkage to the light meter lets the camera know to compensate for the filter either way. The original object of Super 8mm filmmaking was to be as automatic as possible.

>I thought that shooting in daylight and using the 85b filter changes the EFFECTIVE film speed to 25, so no change to the camera ISO setting would be necessary. On most cameras, one can't set the ISO anyway. On my Beaulieu, I always leave the ISO set to 40 for Kodachrome, regardless of whether I shoot indoors or out. By using the 85b filter in daylight, less light reaches the film plane (and the meter??), effectively lowering the ISO by approximately 1/3 stop (ISO 25). Same thing with Ektachrome, but the daylight filter lowers the effective ISO to 80.

That is correct...the use of the Daylight Conversion filter, drops the effective filmspeed for KODACHROME from ASA/ISO 40 to ISO 25 (the film is Not truly an ISO 25 filmspeed). On the BEAULIEU movie cameras (all except for the 1008XLS and 1028XLS{aka 1060XLS}), the filmspeed is manually set on a dial on the camera by the filmmaker. When filming in daylight and using the built-in Daylight Conversion Filter (ONLY for camera models 2008S, 4008S, 4008ZM, 4008ZMII, 4008ZM2, 4008 M3, 4008ZMIV, 4008ZM4, 3008S, 3008mS, 5008S & 5008mS), the filter is just before the filmgate and actually behind the guillotine shutter and NOT in the way of the light meter. SO....the filter will not affect the meter reading...you MUST set the camera's meter at ASA 25 if using KODACHROME in Daylight with the filter in position (thus the Filter Key NOT in the camera) for example....and set the meter dial to ASA 40 IF using KODACHROME under Tungsten lighting without the Filter (Filter Key installed in the camera).

The ONLY time this is different, is IF you are using an external filter on the lens...since then the meter will read this decreased amount of light....SO...then you would HAVE to set the meter at ASA 40 when using KODACHROME 40 in Daylight...and having a Daylight Conversion #85 Filter screwed onto the lens. The ONLY OTHER time this applies...is WHEN using the later Lexon bodied BEAULIEU Cameras, which have the Daylight Conversion Filter built INTO the BEAULIEU lenses made for the camera (noted by the obvious orange cast the viewfinder when in position). These following models Do NOT have the Daylight Filter built into the camera body...but ONLY in the lens: 6008S, 6008Pro, 6008S Digital, 6008Pro Digital, 7008S, 7008Pro, 9008S & 9008Pro. [NOTE: the model 8008 was a Hi-8 video camera with interchangeable lens which didn't catch on and was subsequently discontinued].

>If I followed the advice of the FAQ: Shoot with the 85b filter AND set the ISO to 25 (for Kodachrome), my Beaulieu would now be metering and exposing the film at an effective ISO of about 16!!

You did NOT state which model BEAULIEU you have....however...since you can set the ASA filmspeed on a dial, I will take a guess that it's one of the older ones (pre-Lexon bodied models). IF so...then the advice on the FAQ is correct....you set the meter to ASA 25 when using KODACHROME in Daylight and with the Daylight Conversion filter in position. Since the filter is behind the shutter and viewing system...the meter has no way of knowing whether or not the filter is in position. This exposure information is detailed in the BEAULIEU camera instruction manual (granted...it's not the clearest information but it's in there).

>Anybody care to clarify this? If light travels THROUGH the built-in filter THEN hits the light meter, then one shouldn't change the ISO setting on the camera for daylight, since the meter is already compensating as if the ISO had been changed. Right? Or did I just confuse everybody, including myself?

What you are stating is correct.....however....it ONLY applies IF the filter is in the path of the light rays that affect the light meter. Since the BEAULIEU 2008S to 5008mS series of cameras use a filter that is builtin BEHIND the shutter and just in front of the filmgate....the meter DOES NOT read any light passing thru it. This is why it states in the BEAULIEU camera manual(s) to set the meter to ASA 25 if you are using KODACHROME in Daylight and using the builtin Daylight filter. So...in the case of these cameras mentioned....the filter DOES NOT affect the reading......and thus the actual filmspeed rating WHEN using the filter has to be set on the filmspeed ASA dial. I know it sounds all bit confusing...but it really isn't. Just read thru what I've written carefully, and you'll understand how it works. The applies ONLY to these BEAULIEU camera models and any other camera with a similar filter setup, that has external filmspeed dial (e.g. the russian made Quarz Super 8mm and a few others).

Hope this helps clarify this situation.
Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten Super8mm@aol.com

>Is anyone familiar with the Beaulieu 1028 XL60 super 8 camera? How different is this from the Beaulieu 5008? Has anyone used this camera before with sound film?

The BEAULIEU 1028 XL60 is VERY different from the true French-made models. The camera is actually made in Japan (as is the brother model 1008XL). This particular version accepts the Kodak 200ft sound cartridge. There is no lap dissolve feature on this camera....but there are auto and manual fade in/outs (in auto mode and when using sound film...both picture & sound fade in/out). This camera has an XL existing light, low light shutter with a large 220° shutter opening coupled with a fast but non-interchangeable zoom lens 6.9mm to 55mm (incidently, this is the same lens that was fitted as a low cost optional lens for the 6008S & Pro and 7008S & Pro model series). The camera features a nice auto-exposure fine tuning adjustment in 1/3rd stop increments, various running speeds, single frame, nice viewfinder, and a similar handgrip to the 6008 and up series cameras. In a pure sense...this isn't a true Beaulieu camera at all....but a Chinon made in Japan for Beaulieu. It's quite similar to some late model Bell & Howells that used Chinon made assemblies. Filmspeeds are indexed by the cartridges, not with a separate ASA dial as in conventional Beaulieu cameras. A nice improvement over the older rechargeable battery cells, is the camera's use of Double A 1.5 volt alkaline or 1.2volt rechargeable user loadable batteries....much more convenient.

The BEAULIEU 5008S camera is a true Beaulieu with C-mount lens interchangebility. If you have the multispeed version, then you have four running speeds...otherwise the early version only has 18fps & 24fps (single frame only with the optional single frame device), film backwind for lap dissolve or double exposure ONLY with the Sound cartridges and ONLY with the optional Rewind Device. Actually...aside from the lens interchangeablity and the very limited manual film rewind.....the camera is more limited in features compared to the 1028XL or 1008XL models. However...most will agree here...that the Schneider or Angenieux lens on the 5008S cameras will perform much better optically than the fixed zoom lens on the 1028XL or 1008XL cameras.

In conclusion, you must decide which features you desire. Both cameras are quite capable of making excellent film in Super 8mm...with the 5008S being a bit more limited and slower to operate (especially when you want to do fades and special effects). Hopefully, some other users of these two cameras will post their personal findings as well.

Best wishes, Martin W. Baumgarten

This is normal for BEAULIEU Super 8mm movie cameras with interchangeable lenses. The focusing screen has to be used for accurate visual focusing thru the viewfinder. However...you do NOT have to remove the focusing screen when filming. It is optional, as you can film with or without the focusing screen in position. Actually, once you have had sufficient practice, the aerial image position (focusing screen removed) will allow you to focus visually; but is easier at the telephoto settings. Beaulieu made the focusing screen retractable to allow for a brigher uncomplicated viewfinder image.....most useful in lower light conditions.

The built in focusing screen is common primarily on the Beaulieu movie cameras, however....beginning on the 6008 series and up...the focusing screen is no longer retractable (a feature I wish Beaulieu had kept with). The majority of Super 8mm cameras use either:

1. Aerial image focusing (usually found on lower cost models).
2. Split image center circle focusing aid (found on various makes from low to high end cameras.
3. Micro-prism focusing center circle (found on various makes from low to high end cameras).
4. Ground glass focusing screen or ground glass center circle or area for fine focusing (used primarily in the Beaulieu Super 8mm cameras...however a few other makes such as Sankyo, Argus and a few others used a fixed screen with a ground glass focusing spot. Also....more expensive cameras such as the Pathe and converted Bolex H-8 Reflex cameras have fixed ground glass focusing screens etc).

Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten

Yes, the Schneider-Kreuznach 6mm - 66mm F/1.8 macro zoom lens will focus up to the front element at any focal length throughout its zoom range. The lenses you mention are one and the same. It is sometimes referred with the term "macro" and sometimes not...but there is only one lens of this make. [Incidently...this same basic lens configuration was also used on the Leicina Super 8mm camera, but using the Leica M-mount and a special Leica motor drive iris and zoom lens configuration, and Beaulieu offered this lens on the 5008S models, and had it on their special ruggedized 'safari' version without a zoom motor, manual zoom only...on the 4008 M3].

Value is a relative term and hard to pinpoint without seeing and testing the camera. IF this is the later model 4008ZMII then it will have a small black button above the round footage counter window. This is the film declutch button....which without, you'd have a hard time being able to do lap dissolve and superimpositions and multiple exposures. So that's what I would check to see if it has...IF you are interested in that function. That being said...any one of the Beaulieu interchangeable lens cameras will shoot sharp steady images as long as they are in good running condition. IF the camera works fine and is cosmetically and mechanically and optically excellent, and it comes with a power supply and charger...then the value range would be in the $400 to $750 range. Of course....a dealer would sell it for more...and the real value as with anything, is what you agree to pay for it. Considering what 'new' Beaulieu 7008 Pro sells for (about $7400.00!!!), you will get a bargain. Anything less and it's an incredible bargain...and more would be quite expensive....unless it were from a shop that offered some kind of warranty coverage on the sale.

Good luck!
Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten

The 6mm-70mm F/1.4 Schneider-Krueznach lens became available on late 5008S Multispeed models and was standard on the 4008ZM4 model. Optional was an extra long 6mm to 80mm Angenieuz zoom lens (of which a modern version that is 6mm to 90mm is available on late 7008S/Pro or 9008S/Pro models).

Also of noteworthiness here: The 6mm-70mm Schneider lens which became standard from here on in over to the 6008S/Pro and up series.....ONLY has Macro focusing capability at the wide angle end of the zoom. This is a downward departure from the better Angenieux 8mm to 64mm Macro and the most popular lens ever made on the Beaulieu, the 6mm - 6mm F/1.8 Schneider Macro which both allow macro focusing up to the front element at ANY focal length throughout the zoom range. This makes either of these two lense more versatile than previous or later lenses on these series cameras.

So other than a darker paint scheme on the 4008ZM4 models...the only real features that changed was the standard lens (macro focusing at wide angle end only) and the increase of the top running speed from 70fps to 80fps. Technically, this speed change could be done to most any existing 4008ZM & 4008ZMII camera...since there is room to increase it on the variable speed pot on the circuit board. Beaulieu must've had early pre-production design ideas for many of the later features, and even some that were never added. Since the control side body shell has punch out molded into it for most of the later features and some that were never incorporated. Looking back over the entire range...it can be noted that perhaps adding all the features of the 4008ZM2, could'be been done on the early 2008S models.....but all the lens designs and zoom motors weren't available at that time, or perhaps just on the drawing board(s).

In retrospect....any one of the Beaulieu interchangeable lens Super 8mm cameras is capable of producing some of the sharpest Super 8mm footage ever seen. This is not to slight other camera makes at all. Believe it or not...I have gotten very sharp and steady footage out of the better GAF (Chinon) ST series cameras as well. But that's another topic.

Best wishes,
Martin W. Baumgarten

People often get confused and think that all model Beaulieus can do all the same functions. This is not correct. The one you are considering [BEAULIEU 4008ZM] was the first power zoom model that Beaulieu offered and came with a variable power zoom 8mm to 64mm F/1.8 Angenieux lens that focuses down to 5ft. Shortly thereafter an optional 8mm to 64mm Angenieux Macro focusing lens which allowed focusing down to the front lens optic was available. This lens was also standard on the initial 4008ZMII models, which also had as an option (and then later as standard lens) the Schneider-Krueznach 6mm - 66mm F/1.8 macro zoom lens.

Aside from the lens variations (and often on used Beaulieus you may find a differnent lens than was originally sold with it since owners switched them etc), the main differences from the 4008ZM to the 4008ZMII is the addition on the later model of the following functions: Tape recorder start/stop sockets, Erlson Piltone Shaft socket (for double-system sound recoding using the optional Erlson Pilotone drive unit etc).

By 1975 the later versions of the 4008ZMII (sometimes showing up as the 4008ZM2) added a small black button above the small circular footage counter. This is a film drive declutch button and when held in while filming, allows the cartridge core to stop moving thus creating film slack. By using an optional Beaulieu Reverse Film Wind Device, you can rewind the film up to 100 frames to allow you to do lap dissolves, superimpositions and other multiple effects. This specific function is one that many think exists on all model Beaulieus, and this is NOT so! ONLY the later model 4008ZMIIs and the final version, the 4008ZM4 has this function.

The following models have the Erlson Pilotone Shaft socket....HOWEVER...you CANNOT rewind the film since they do NOT have the declutch button (you could tape over the cartridge core and use this method to allow film slack to buildup....which is a similar method to the Craven Film Backwinder and others...but it requires a film changing bag, or you would fog about an inch of film with each removal of the cartridge):

• 4008ZMII 1972-1975 models
• 4008 M3
• 3008S (allows backwinding ONLY with sound cartridges)
• 3008S Multispeed (allows backwinding ONLY with sound cartridges)
• 5008S (allows backwinding ONLY with sound cartridges)
• 5008S Multispeed (allows backwinding ONLY with sound cartridges)

The original battery system is often spoken harshly of.....but that is due mainly because of age and wear. Originally, they worked fine and would run about 12 to 14 Super 8 cartridges depending on how careful you were and how much you relied on the power zoom. New batteries and recelled original batteries are available and by using them...the camera maintains an easy to use sleek profile. However...they are expensive..and often for a fraction of a new battery, you can make up your own battery pack or buy one from one of various dealers that sell them. I have seen virtually every possible powering configuration for these cameras.....even alkaline battery packs, so there are various possibilities.

Perhaps the main consideration with these cameras is that often they will require servicing.....and that in conjunction with the battery power situation makes them seem very expensive. Yes, you may very well get a super bargain at $200....but with a quality servicing and addition of a battery supply....it could cost you an additional $300 to $500 dollars depending on where you go. All things considered....it will still be a bargain over purchasing the camera from a dealer which would run in the $750 to $1000 range....even for the 4008ZM model. Once you have one of these and it works well and you take care of it....the nice thing is that it will run for a long time and can always be serviced (for the time being anyhow).

Make sure the camera runs steady at all speeds (BUT do NOT run it at speeds faster than 24fps without film in the camera!), check the zoom and variable speed setting on the zoom. This is all assuming that the battery is working. If not....check the manual zoom, the focus....see if it focuses clearly to infinity, make sure the ground glass focusing screen is clean and bright and moves in and out easily holdling its position firmly. Open the film chamber door and with the lens either removed or iris fully open....run the camera (if possible of course) and see if the Daylight filter is in place (you will see an orange tint when you view thru the film gate at an angle, if it's there). Make sure the pistol grip handle is firmly attached to the camera...some get loose and will require tightening...not a big deal..but it could be indicative of rough handling in the past. Make sure the palm power switch presses in evenly and retracts when you let go of the grip. Make sure it pulls out to its stop setting which is actually a manual power on setting. See if the seller has the Filter Key, which fits into a slot just under the cartridge loading chamber in the handle. Make sure all the dials have their markings, as on older cameras the adhesive dries up an often you find these are missing, along with tiny bits of leatherette trim. See if the original eyecup is there....if not, you can get a replacement but they aren't cheap either. Obviously, a run test would be nice to make sure all functions seem to work...however...if there's no battery and the camera is in good shape and the viewing system seems clear and bright and the lens zoom and focus work nicely...then it's worth having serviced regardless.

AUSSERLICH BATTERIE QUELLE fuer die BEAULIEU 3008S/5008S Filmkameras

So, Sie befinden sich mit eine schoene BEAULIEU 3008S oder die 5008S Super 8mm Schmalfilmkamera, aber...die bloede Batterie ist tod. Was sind den Ihre Waehle? Sie konnen eine nagel neue umtauschungs Batterie besorgen, aber es wirdit Sie wirklich fast 400 DM oder mehr kosten, mit Post noch zum einrechnen dabei. Sie konnen auch die alter wechschicken zum umbau (auch fast 200 DM oder?); und...Sie konnen sich selbst eine Ausserlich Akku Batterie basteln.

Hierunter sind die Pol Verbindungen on die BEAULIEU Kamerabatterie fassenstelle, als Sie es von vorn aussieht:

       Oben Mittelpunkt Steckdose..(o)    

Negativ Erdepunkt...........(1)          (2).........Positiv 7,2 Volt (Zoomobjektiv & fahr/steuer motorbetrieb)

Positiv 3,6 Volt ..................(3) (Belichtungsmesser & Blendesteuergeraet)

Sie mussen jetzt ein "Dummy Batterie" besorgen, was man vorn dranschaubt on die Batteriefassen des Kameras. Das wurdet alles einfacher machen, als dan mussen Sie nur einen 3 Punkt DIN Stecker zum Steckdose basteln....oder Sie konnen die BEAULIEU Ausserlich Batterie Stromversorgungskabel benutzen.

Ausserdem, Sie konnen einen 3 Stecker DIN Stromversorgungskabel (starker qualitaet Mikrokabel genugt manchmal) von Tandy usw Elektrische-Elektroniks Laden bekommen.

Wenn Sie nur total von anfang arbeiten mussen (ohne richtiger ersatzteile), dan mussen Sie auch die folgern Teilen besorgen:

1. Eine 7,2 Volt 500mA oder starker Akkubatterie (die so wie fuer Videokameras sind annehmbar....aber ausser das Sie einen Electrik Stromkreis einbauen konnen fuer die 3,6 Volt fuer die Belichtungsmesser und Blendesteuergeraet....Sie konnten dan NUR Hauptlaufbar Motorbetrieb benutzen).
2. Rund Electrikangriffpolen - 3 Stuck, eine fuer jeder Batteriepol on die Kamera. Bitte benutzen Sie Farbverschluesseln fuer jede Pol, so das Sie aufpassen konnen welche gehoert wo. Gruen ist fuer ERDE, Rot ist fuer 7,2 Volt HAUPTSTROM (Motorbetrieb des Kameras), und Blau ist fuer 3,6 Volt Sekundaerwicklung (Belichtungsmesser/Blendesteuermotor). Kaufen Sie etwas Draht mit die drei Farben, oder Farbverschliessen die Endpolen so Sie jede Leitung erkennen konnen (Klepmaterial ist prima dafuer).
3. Wenn Sie Nicht die alter Batteriekiste/Gehaeuse hast, dan mussen Sie ertwas anderes basteln zum als Batteriegehaeuse benutzen konnen. Es gibt verschiedene Kiste aus Kunftstoff usw....so wenn Sie etwas finden das genau passen wird, dan sehr gut. Oder, Sie mussen es gegen die Kamerafassen mit viel Electik-Klebstoffmaterial (funktioniert, aber sieht nicht schoen aus!).
4. WENN Sie die alter Batteriekiste haben.....dann wird diesenteil Ihre "Dummy Batterie" werkteil. Es kann mann ja schoen einschrauben genau an die Beaulieu Batterieanschlusspunkt, so es sieht auch mehr professional aus.
5. Sie brauchen auch etwas schwerbenutzte Stromleitung fuer die Hauptbatterie Stromvorrat an die Kamera anschlusspunkt. Sie konnen gute Qualitaet Lautsprecherdraht benutzen (3 Draht typisch), oder machen Sie ein drittes Stromleitungdraht neben bei. Schauen Sie im Laden, Sie konnen etwas bestimmt finden; guten qualitaet dreistuckdraht.
6. Ein Stereo ministeckdose mit richtige steckdosenfassungen. Das wird am ende Ihre "Dummy Batterie" einpassen zum schnell ein und ausstecken Ihre Stromleitungskabel.
7. Ein Stereo 90° Grad Ministecker: Es wird Sie erlauben die Drahtleitung an die Batteriekiste Steckdose zufassen, und macht auch wenig Stress on die Stromleitung im sonnst.
8. Eine Ledertasche oder Projektkiste das wo man die Akkubatterie einpassen konnen. Wenn Sie einen Projektkiste benutzen....dan konnen Sie auch ein Velcromaterial Girtelklip kaufen.....macht es ganz einfach und schnell zum benutzen. Oder, Sie konnen auch einen Fixundvertig Girtelklip kaufen...so wie es Ihren Wahl past. Wenn Sie eine Ledertasche benutzen mochtet, dan konnen Sie es uber die Schulter tragen, oder auch am Hosengirtel, so wie es am besten geht.
9. Wenn Sie einen Projektkiste brauchen tut, dan konnen Sie auch einen Ein/Aus Schalter einbauen, und auch so weit noch mit LED beleuchtung, so Sie dan bescheid wissen wenn der Netz ein ist. Aber, es ist nicht hunderprozentig notig. Die Kamera ist so wie so, nur angeschaltet wenn der Handhabel eingedruckt ist oder in die Ein stellung rausgesogen ist.
10. Loetkolben, Loetmetall, Schmeltzmittel, und Feinsandpapier, Elektik-kleptmaterial (Schwarz, Gruen, Rot & Blau, und irgend etwas anderes das Sie denken Sie benutzen mussen/konnen), ein Bohrergeraet mit Bohrerteilen um die Locher ins "Dummy Batterie" einmachen fuer die Leitung, Drahtscherer, und irgend welche andere Feinmeckaniker Arbeitswerkzeuger das Sie brauchen konnen.

UMBAU: Dummy Batterie aus eine alte Kamerabatterie

1. Bohr einen Loch genau in der Mitte des unterseite die alter Akkubatterie....seid diese wird Ihre "Dummy Batterie" bekommen. Der Loch sollte eigentlich gross genug sein um die Stereo Mini-Steckdoseteil zum passen.
2. Schneide durch drei Drahte so vielicht zwischen 10cm bis 14cm sind, ausser die drei Farbdraehte....oder kleben Sie ein Farbklebmaterial an jedes Draht, so Sie bescheid wissen welches was ist. Abstreifen Sie des Endes jedes Draht.
3. Fastbinden des Endes jedes Draht an die Polen des Kameras mit Ihren Pol Werkzeug. Jetz schmier etwas Schmeltzmittel dran und Loet jedes Draht zum guten Kontakt erreichen.
4. Loet die Ende jedes Draht von die drei Draehte an den Stereo Mini-Steckdose, sicher zu sein das der Grundteil von Dose der Erderpunkt ist. Zum es einfach zumachen......Draht versehe die Mitte oder Ende fuer die Hauptleitung (7,2 Volt Fahrsteuerstrom), und die Mittel fuer die Zweite oder Sekundaerwicklung (Belichtungsmesser/Blendesteuermotor). Dan, fest machen an die Stereo Mini-Steckdose ans Loch in der Batteriekiste dran, und festmachen mit die Schrauben und Muttern, die dabei mit kommen. Reinschrauben die Batteriekiste, es dreht sich nicht, es ist doch nur die fassungsring das sich dreht....so Ihre Draehte sind in ordnung am bleiben.
5. Das Kamerateil is vertig.

1. Jetzt, benutzen Sie den Hauptdraht Sie gekauft haben, schneiden Sie ab so viel das was Sie glauben Sie benutzen mussen; so was Ihr Komfitabel findet [estwas zwischen 1m bis 1,8m reicht gut]. Fest binden Sie die RICHTIGE Draehte an das 90° Grad MiniStecker.
2. Enfallen Sie eine geoftnette Batteriepackung oder einzele Zellen haben....es wird einfacher zu sein um die Drahte festmachen/Loeten, des Teils: Erde, Haupt 7,2 Volt Leitung, und Zweite 3,6 Volt Leitung. Enfalle Sie eine Videokamera Akkukiste benutzen mochtet, dan mussen Sie wahrscheinlich die Kiste offen machen, und indrin eines Pol zum Strom den 3,6 Volt anschluss schaffen (fuer den Belichtungsmesser/Blendestuergeraet). Bohr ein kleines Loch oder Loecher, so wie Sie brachen, im Akkukistedeckel, so das Sie jedes Draht durchlaufen konnen.
3. Loet den 3,6 Volt Draht (Blau Farbe Draht), an eine stelle wo die Innerhalb DREI Batterien zusammen kommen. Jede Zelle ist doch 1,2 Volt....so...Drei Stuck davon reicht genau den Strom mit 3,6 Volt.
4. Loet den Haupt 7,2 Volt Leitung Draht (Rot Farbes Draht) an die Positiv Endpunkt des Batteriepackung.(Die Videobatteriepackung das Sie am benutzen sind).
5. Loet jetzt den Erdepunkt Draht (Gruen Farbes Draht) an den Negativ Pol ausser die Batteriepackung (Die Videobatteriepackung das Sie am benutzen sind).
6. Mach jetzt ein kleinen Knotten in die Draehte bevor des Ausgangloch. Oder....wenn Sie das alles in einen kleines Projektkiste passen....dan konnen Sie ein Knotten in jedes Draht machen bevor sie ausgehen in den Ihren einzellen gebohrte Loecher im Projektkiste {Sie mussen wahrscheinlich noch etwas Bohren um jedes Draht oder Draehte zum aussgang schaffen].
   ALTERNATIVE WAHL: Wenn Sie beide Geraete einfach aussenander machen mochten....Sie konnen ein Stereo Mini-Stecker an BEIDE ende des Drahteleitung machen. Dan...wenn Sie ein Stereo Mini-Stechdose ins Projektkiste einbauen tut....konnen Sie ein Draht abstecken von die Batterie so wie Sie es mochten. Warum fragen Sie? Enfalle Sie ein langeres oder kurzes Leitungkabel haben mochtet, oder fuer andere Filmdrehen Ideen.
7. Als SICHERHEIT: ALLE Verbindungen und Mini-Steckdosen und Steckers prufungen, so das Sie hundertprozentig sind das jedes das richtiges Stromvolt hat, und ist auch das richtige Polaritaet! Ich kann das nicht genug befehlen hier.
8. Einbauen die AkkuBatterie ins Projektkiste und alles zu machen; oder, wenn Sie einer Ledertasche benutzen mochten, steck den Akku dortrein...und mach ein grosses Knotten dabei vorn von wo die Drahtleitung nach assen geht [um alles zum gut schutzen gegen siehen und das nichts einfach kaput geht].
9. Jetzt brachen Sie nur den Akku aufladen und dan sind Sie vertig zum gehen und die Kamera zu benutzen. Wenn Sie einen Videokameratypisch Akkubatterie benutzen tun....sicher sein das dort Locher sind oben am Ende den Deckel...dan past deisen Akku wieder im richtigen Videokamera Aufladengeraet. ABER, wenn Sie Ihren Echten BEAULIEU Akku Aufladergeraet haben, Sie konnen einfach durch die Onboard Kamera Laderdose benutzen. Enfalle Sie einzelle Akkubatterien haben das Sie zusammen gemacht als Stromleitung usw, dan konnen Sie die Akku aufladen mit den Kabel endungteil. Sie mussen dan wahrscheinlich ein Adapter dran machen so das der Stereo Mini-Stecker als Mono ist...um alle Batterien zum aufladen. Mit diesen wahl, es ist egal welchen Auflader Sie benutzen....den Akkupackung wird richtig aufgeladet sein, so lange Positiv ist mit Positiv und Negativ ist mit den Negativ Polen verbindet. Wenn Sie einzeln Akku 1,2 Volt Zellen (z.B. die Doppel A Zellen), dan konnen Sie die ausmachen von die Batteriehalter und ins Doppel A usw, Aufladergeraet benutzen.

Jetzt konnen Sie die prima BEAULIEU Super 8 Kamera wirder schoen benutzen.....so geh doch fort und dreh Sie einen Film!

BEMEHRKUNG! Diesen Akkugeraet ist selbstbau moglich, aber....Ich befehle kein Guarantee das alles perfekt sein wird. Sie mussen erlauben das alles mit basteln arbeit selbstschuldig ist.

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