Bunny friend, Amy Berezin kindly allowed me to include her advice to new owners of pet rabbits on my page.
Please do not reprint this article without Amy's permission.
This was initially sent to the members of the PetBunny listserve. For more information on the PetBunny listserve and how to join, please refer to the bottom of this article.
Also, you can visit the PetBunny home page by clicking on the link included in The Thicket.
Congratulations on an excellent choice! Rabbits can be wonderful pets and delightful companions, but like all animals they need specialized care and attention. Here is some of the most important information. Another excellent source, which I strongly recommend, is Marinell Harriman's House Rabbit Handbook. Click on the link to learn how to order it online.
Health and Veterinary Care
Rabbits in the U.S. do not need vaccinations. However, it is important to call your vet if you notice:
- Lethargy
- Loss of apetite
- Reduced number of fecal pellets, diarrhea, or change in the size and shape of fecal pellets (note: a few softer and shinier "night feces" are normal)
- Discharge from eyes or nose
- Overlapping teeth
- Excessive scratching, flaky skin, or abnormal hair loss
- Bumps or sores on the body
- Paralysis
Illness in rabbits can progress rapidly, so immediate steps should be taken if any of the above occur. It is a good idea to call around your area to find a vet who specializes in "exotics"; the best cat and dog vet may have very little experience with rabbits, and as much of the important rabbit information is new your rabbit should have an up-to-date expert. A list of experienced rabbit vets (by location) can be found through the House Rabbit Society Web Site (http://www.rabbit.org/).
Neutering of all rabbits is recommended. If done by an experienced vet, it can be relatively low-stress for your bunny, and is a good idea for a variety of health (mammary, uterine and testicular cancer) as well as behavior (mounting, spraying) reasons. Six months is a good time to neuter, but you and your vet should discuss the issue several months earlier (rabbits mature sexually very young, so this is especially important if you have more than one). It is very important that the vet who neuters your rabbit is experienced at neutering rabbits!
You will notice that your rabbit cleans him or herself frequently and thoroughly. Although they do not need to be bathed, it is a good idea to br ush them (with a small animal brush) regularly, especialy when they are molting, which occurs several times per year. Consult your vet about making hairball prevention, which is a serious concern, a part of your daily (in the form of papaya enzyme tablets) or weekly (in the form of pet laxative) feeding routine.
Diet
Until your rabbit is six months old (the typical end of growth), they should receive unlimited quantities of high-quality rabbit feed and timothy hay. Mature rabbits should be given 2 tbsp. of feed for every 5 lbs of rabbit per day and as much timothy hay as they can eat. Alfalfa hay is very high in fat and should be given sparingly, therefore for daily feedings use only timothy hay. Hay and pellets should always look and smell fresh and dust-free. In addition, mature rabbits can be given up to 1cup/day of fresh vegetables. Common favorites are carrots and tops, parsley, dandelion greens, broccoli, cauliflower, and brussel sprouts. Young rabbits should receive smaller quantities of veggies as weekly "treats," and for all rabbits, vegetables should be introduced one at a time as certain vegetables cause diarrhea in some rabbits. Other "treats" include apples, bananas, pears, dried fruits (raisins, papaya, pineapple), oats, and hard bread. Small quantities (approx. 1 tbsp.) can be given daily, or a larger quantity (ie. 1/2 pear) can be given once a week. In addition, if your rabbit is on antibiotic medication, yogurt with active cultures or lactobacillus powder (mixed into soft treats or water) should be given. Consult the vet for specifics. For more detailed and alternative "diets," check "The House Rabbit Handbook," 3rd Ed.
Housing
If you are interested in having an outdoor rabbit, consult the available literature on how to build a hutch which will keep a rabbit warm and secure in your area's climate. However, bunnies make wonderful indoor pets. Many can be litterbox trained so they can roam your house freely. Only recyled newspaper litter or hay should be used (no clay, corn cob, or wood shavings). Caged rabbits should have a minimum of 4 hours of free-running time every day. The bottom of the cage should be lined with newspaper and a thick layer of the types of litter mentioned above. Cedar and pine shavings can have harmful long-term affects on your bunny's respiratory system. The cage should be cleaned out weekly.
Bunnyproofing your home is absolutely necessary.
All electrical cords and wiring must be made inaccessible!!!
In addition, some rabbits teethe on anything available, so look around carefully to make sure nothing potentially harmful or delicate is within rabbit range.
Bunny Personalities
Rabbits, like people, vary. Many rabbits do not like to be picked up and held off the ground but are extremely receptive to petting when they have all four paws on the floor. After your rabbit has learned to know and love you, it will most likely beg to be petted and stroked by you! However, young bunnies can be skittish, and stress should be avoided. Ask your vet about the best way to hold your bunny should it be medically necessary (or for claw-trimming etc.).
If you would lke to keep a pair of rabbits, a neutered male-female pair or two females who have been raised together are the best combinations. Many adult males will fight viciously once matured, even if they have been neutered.
For more bunny info:
- contact your local Humane Society
- Subscribe to the House Rabbit Journal (you can also subscribe by sending $12 to House Rabbit Society, 1524 Benton St., Alameda CA 94501)
- If you have an e-mail account, and would like to become part of the PetBunny listserve, send the command "SUBSCRIBE PETBUNNY YOUR NAME" to listserv@lsv.uky.edu
